On this page:
Cape Besov The nose of Lake Onega is widely known in narrow circles as a place that every self-respecting jeep should visit. Dozens of real men every summer storm the Prionezhsky forests and swamps in a single rush. In other circles, Besov Nos is famous mainly for its Neolithic petroglyphs, which we went (or rather, swam) to see.
A trip to Besov Nose has become a talk of the town among lovers of off-road shit-climbing. The very first pictures for the request "demons nose in a jeep" in Google are beautiful:
No, he did not break, it is his suspension.
Well, etc. etc. No, this is not our car =))
This fascinating pastime is best characterized by a dialogue, read in some kind of report:
- Why do you need so much gasoline?
- Yes, our motorboat turned over, it all leaked out.
- How did you turn over?
- Yes, I ran into a UAZ and rolled over.
We have no more questions.
Especially gifted people go straight along the banks of Onega to the Murom Monastery - this is a new chic. It's even more interesting there:
Even though we had a jeep with us quite by accident, it was completely unprepared for such races. So as the last suckers had to sail on that very motorboat. In principle, Besov Nos can be reached on foot, along the jeep road to the place only 15 km.
How to get to Besov Nos
All roads to Besov Nos start in the village of Karshevo, which is about 40 kilometers south of Pudozh. Half of the population of this village trades in the delivery of everyone to Besov Nos by motorboats.
It costs an average of 1000 rubles. per person.
Sailing along the river is quite far, about half an hour one way.
Finally the river flows into Onega, and we shake ourselves out of the boat.
From the mouth of the river to Cape Besov Nos itself, you still need to walk three kilometers along the sandy beaches of Onega.
On high capes, the entire pine forest was broken by the 2010 hurricane. From it all over the North there are areas of literally mown forest.
Besov Nose
Finally, here is the Devil's Nose.
It represents granite "foreheads" gently sloping down into Onega. It is on this granite that you need to look for petroglyphs.
The most famous of the local petroglyphs is the so-called "demon": its legs are clearly visible in the photo below.
And the rest is poorly seen, because the weather was cloudy and unsuitable for looking at petroglyphs.
For good reason, you need to go to Besov Nos in sunny weather: in the light scattered by the clouds, the petroglyphs are very poorly visible. And a local guide will also do the trick: some of the drawings are hard to find without help.
This is how the Bes looks if you draw its outlines with chalk.
It can be seen that the figure is knocked out over a large crack that split a granite boulder. Perhaps the ancient aborigines considered this crack as something like an entrance to other worlds.
In general, despite the fact that Besov Nos is the largest "deposit" of petroglyphs in the whole of Fennoscandia (Scandinavia, Finland and Karelia), the Onega petroglyphs are very poorly studied, almost completely undeciphered and it is not really known who and why all this was knocked out in stone in the era neolithic.
To the right, an Orthodox cross has been knocked out on top of Bes. This is the work of the monks of the nearby Murom monastery, who actually discovered the Onega petroglyphs a couple of hundred years ago.
Well, around Bes there are many other drawings of animals, fish and incomprehensible figures.
Previously, a lighthouse worked on the cape, now in the era of GPS it is not needed by anyone and is abandoned.
And untouched pine forests are spread around. The places are simply magical and you must, of course, go here for a week or two with a tent, and not for a couple of hours.
Peri Nose
There are petroglyphs not only on the Besov Nos cape itself, but also on the neighboring ones. The closest of them is Cape Peri Nos, a kilometer away. We go there along the coast.
On the way, we refresh ourselves with pasture. What I like in the north is that there all the "gifts of nature" grow at once: in the forest there are raspberries, blueberries, lingonberries, blueberries, cloudberries, and mushrooms at the same time. Cranberries, however, later.
Peri Nos is a few stone promontories protruding into the lake, on which there are also petroglyphs.
Here the plots and stylistics are different and nothing is clear at all. Who is this? Some kind of birds.
Lots of simple icons and geometric shapes.
Our boatman gave us 3 hours for everything, and this was not enough. We haven't seen everything yet, but we have to go back.
As part of the departure of the Pickup Club to Besov Nos, our team, in view of their active participation in the life of this wonderful club, decided to visit this center of pilgrimage for jeepers once again.
Departure photo:
On the eve of the departure, it turned out that one of our comrades had to call on the way to the city of Babaevo, to the local traffic police department, for a certificate on the current case of rights. In this regard, it was decided to break through the Babaevo-Vytegra route, along forest country roads and clearings, which was done. We knocked around for a long time, stumbled into dead ends, but nevertheless drove to Vytegra, and, moreover, practically without losses, except for the flying table, which was not fixed in my body, which at the next peak landed the glass of the box. Fasten the shmurdyak stronger!
We arrived at the site of the Pickupclub camp, near the village of Karshevo, which is the last point of civilized country roads before Besov.
We ate, drank, slept, woke up, lowered the wheels and drove to the Karshevo-Besov Nos SS:
the road was, as usual, interesting, moderately dry:
and moderately wet:
What is interesting about Besov's nose is that 17 kilometers of the road to it offer the jeep a lot of various obstacles, here and maneuvering between stumps and trees, and deep ruts with high-quality mud, and geometric ambushes with oblique wheels, and there is even a little stone trial.
We got to the shore of Onega, and there, as always, beautiful:
We set up camp in our favorite place - between Besov and Peri Noses, put up an awning
well, they set the table:
If anyone is interested, then this is a tourist table that is included in the standard equipment of any car, his name is a radiator, it's a pity the photo was not preserved
I will not post a lot of photos of Besov Nos himself, those who were already know what is there, and who were not - let it be better to see everything live:
We bought, drank vodka, evacuated the broken car back to Karshevo, walked wonderfully, it's time to move back. But, instead of the ordinary Rubilov Besov-Karshevo, we wanted to drive the Besov-Shalsky route, which had not been trodden before (the one that is residential).
In the abandoned Shalsky, they went strictly to the north, in a swampy forest they came across an uazovoda, this person deserves a separate paragraph:
He travels alone, on a stock UAZ patriot, without a winch, without a zip, without tracks and without a clear understanding of all the risks arising from such preparedness. We saw him in the woods near the patrick raised by Jack, noticing a column of 10 Japanese pickups, without batting an eye he asked us if we had a spare steering linkage for the UAZ ... because he bent his own. Upset that we did not have a zip for the UAZ with us, he complained that it had been broken for 2 days already, and asked to be a passenger to Shalsky, deciding to find a traction there and !!! a mechanic who is ready to go 15 km back with him along the wilderness without a single path in order to install it on the UAZ. We were certainly surprised, but we took the boy with us. On the way, they asked, what if there is no steering linkage for the Patriot and crazy mechanics in Shalsky? Well, he replied, then I'll hit the road to Moscow for traction and installation instructions. 7 km before Shalsky, in complete wilderness, he decided to get off and walk straight through the forest. An unusual person ...
PS. Later we figured it out through a blog on the drive and learned that all his adventures ended well.
But let's return to our column, after passing the woods we went ashore beyond Peri Nos and walked along the wild coast:
Our path led along the coast, with periodic visits to the forest, skirting the cape after the cape, we really liked the coastal slides, which there was no way to pass: And one of the most impressive slides:
Along the route, a couple of times there were raised bogs and a lot of stone trial on wet, moss-covered rocky tongues. After the trial, we again went to the sand spit and drove the last 4 km without any problems. On the way, they dropped the broth on a tree, jammed the l200 door, broke a couple of winches. Having left in Shalsky, we pumped in and decided to go to Pudozh, to the hotel without parking, in order to taste the delights of civilization, which they had been deprived of for almost a week.
As a result of the trip, we explored a new road from / to Besov Nos, it is very interesting and varied, and most importantly, not rolled up to holes by jeepers, unlike the Karshevo-Besov path.
Many thanks to Taiga and the Land Surveyor from the Pickup Club, who rode with us and actively photographed the whole process.
Sincerely,
Besov Nos is a cape on the eastern coast of Lake Onega, 1.5 km north of the confluence of the Chernaya River into Lake Onega.
The cape is famous for its petroglyphs, among which stands out an anthropomorphic image called "the demon", approx. 2.30 m, which is about 5 thousand years old. The name "demon" was given to the image by Christian pioneer monks in the 16th century. Petroglyphs are classified as archaeological Neolithic monuments.
The collection of pertoglyphs from the Besov Nos Cape is considered the richest in Finoscandia (Scandinavia and Finland).
At approx. 200 meters from the cape to the west in the lake there is a small rocky island called "Besikha". There is also an inoperative lighthouse on the cape. 1 km. to the east of the cape, on the continent, are the remains of the abandoned village of Besonosovka. The village ceased to exist in the late 1960s and early 1970s. 15 km. to the east on the continent is the village of Karshevo. Besov Nos is connected with Karshevo by a dirt forest road.
About 1 km. to the north of Besov Nos is Cape Peri-Nos. At the same distance to the south - Cape Kladovets. Cape Besov Nos and adjacent capes is a familiar place for local fishermen and hunters to visit - from the village of Shalsky - 20 km north along the coast of Lake Onega and from Karshevo.
For decades, Besov Nos has been the target of constant expeditions by archaeological subdivisions of the Karelian branch of the Russian Academy of Sciences, as well as archaeological scientists from Scandinavia and other European countries. The cape was also an important geodetic point and a landmark for water tourists and yachtsmen, including participants in the Onega regatta. In recent years, Besov Nos also began to be visited intensively by autotourists.
The territory of the Besov Nos cape is a natural and historical reserve.
N
and the next day we went to the petroglyphs.
We decided to spend the whole day on them, there is something to see on Lake Onega ...
Onega petroglyphs are located on the entire eastern coast of Lake Onega. This miracle was discovered by a geologist from St. Petersburg K. Greving in 1848. Scientists date them approximately IV - V millennium BC.
This is not so far from St.
Petroglyphs are located in the Pudozh region, on the rocks of the Besov Nos peninsula, the capes Peri Nos, Kladovets, Gagazhiy, Kochkovnavolok, on the island of Guriy, and also on the Karetsky Nos. Ancient drawings occupy a 20 km long coastal area and have about 1200 figures and signs. Among them are images of forest animals, people, birds (swans), boats. The figures and symbols are up to 4 m in size.
Many drawings open only at certain times of the day, with their "own lighting". Some in the evening, at sunset, others at sunrise ... probably it was conceived))
They are still being found. Everyone can participate in this. It is enough to get up from the computer and go in search of them. Moreover, after last year's hurricane, many trees were uprooted and there may well be new masterpieces under them.
Left view of Lake Onega (NASA image)
The numbers indicate: 1. Svirskaya lip. 2. Petrozavodsk Bay and the city of Petrozavodsk. 3. Bay of Big Onego. 4. Kondopoga lip. 5. Bay Small Onego. 6. Zaonezhsky Bay. 7. Povenets Bay. 8. Kizhi Island. 9. Lake Vodlozero and Vodlozersky national park... 10. Ivinsky Razliv. 11. Cape Besov Nose 12. Island Bolshoi Klimenetsky.
From the city of Pudozh we drove to the village. Karshevo. It stands on the Black River, which flows out of the swamps and flows into Onega. The river is insidious. there is a lot of driftwood (flooded logs) on which you can roll over, but all the locals dangerous places know.
Some extreme lovers on steep off-road vehicles risk continuing along the road and further, to the very Cape of Besov Nos. But when we were there, the police arranged for such a hunt))) we found a check, entry there is prohibited and such a trip is fraught with a good fine.
We arrived quickly. About an hour's drive from the city. The road is not Ice in places. In one place, a wooden bridge with rotten planks sprinkled on the floor))) was afraid to puncture the wheel, and we got there. In the village, many make money transporting tourists in the summer. almost every house has a boat, a motor, a "tablet" and a homemade boat trailer. Every day they take the boat to the river and then return it to the yard.
We did not agree to get to Besov Nos right away. All boats were on Onega. We had to wait about an hour when they would take us there, but it doesn't matter. But we talked to the hostess, learned all the local news. She complained that there are fewer children at the school, they can close it, that Muscovites bought land on which their cows used to graze, built large guest houses there, but during the crisis the business did not go as expected. In addition, the competition for transportation is high for people and it is easier to stay in the city, and not with them. As a result, they get out as best they can, and war games are carried out and shooters and all sorts of fireworks, from which the milk disappears from the cows ... Herods, in short ... I think they will soon be burned nafig.
This gazebo is especially for those waiting to be sent to the petroglyphs ... service, however! You can buy tea or real milk.
We didn't have to wait long, the captain came and took us to the boat.
The water in the river is brown, peaty.
Somewhere we drove slowly, somewhere fast. There was a strong hurricane here last year, and many trees fell. and the snag that had been lying at the bottom for decades stirred up, so it was necessary to be careful.
Then we overclocked ..
Rook drove ... Black Pearl)))))
Here is the cape of the demons.
The water is just a miracle. By the way, they drank it without boiling and nothing. It seemed to me that it is like a mineral ...
The people were swimming with might and main)))) but not near this shore)))
The banks are steep, sometimes only stones, sometimes sand.
Here is a tourist's paradise. This is a local path)))
The captain left us ... will sail in the evening ...
Aftermath of a hurricane ...
Probably someone stumbled here ...
In the previous part, we, having overcome the three-hundred-kilometer stretch of our journey, passing Kirillov, Ferapontovo and Vytegra, stopped for the night near the village of Oktyabrskoye, which is on the border of the Vologda region and the Republic of Karelia. The further route, in theory, led us through Pudozh to the Osudarevaya road - the path laid from the pier of Nyukhcha on the White Sea to Povenets on Lake Onega by order of Peter I. The total length of the road is approximately 260 km.
After a great rest, which invigorated the soul and body, at breakfast all of us somehow suddenly suddenly decided that here we have the legendary Demons' nose at our side and it is probably worth visiting it on the way to the White Sea. Not that we were inclined to such extravagant adventures, but some excitement made us think about this little "detour" in our route. When I was still at home, I put the Besov's nose on it as an additional point of interest that could diversify the "routine" road with a little adventure.
> Morning outdoor cooking. 
Geographically, Besov Nos is a rocky promontory protruding 750 meters into Lake Onega, located between Capes Perry nos and Kanin Nos and is part of a belt of coastal outcrops of crystalline rocks. In the historical sense, the capes of Besov Nos and Kanin Nos are, preserved to our time, monumental paintings of primitive man. The gloomy stone shores of these capes bear groups of patterns of varying complexity - petroglyphs. The sets of petroglyphs of the Kanin nos and Besov nos capes are among the largest on the Onega coast, they include about 100 images. In the petroglyphs of the Besov Cape, the image of an anthropomorphic creature, called Bes, is especially prominent because of the depicted growths on the head that resemble horns. The size of the image is about 2 meters long and it is surrounded by many smaller images depicting birds, people, drawings from everyday life. Petroglyphs are monuments of monumental art of the primitive era and date back to the IV-III millennium BC.
In the jeep-tourist sense, Besov Nos is a transit point for all auto travelers in Karelia. There are two roads to Cape Besov Nos. One through the village of Karshevo, along the Chernaya river. The other goes along the eastern shore of Lake Onega from the village of Shalsky. Most of the road through Shalsky runs along sandy beaches of Onega, several times going into the forest in order to overcome three small capes that cut the coastline of Onega. In our case, the most optimal, from the point of view of the logic of travel, was the route Karshevo - Besov nos - Shalsky. Recalling the numerous stories and videos about the heroic battles of jeepers on the roads to the Devil's Nose, we realized that our cars were in an insufficiently prepared state and in the event of an insurmountable obstacle, we would have to go back.
In all cases, it turned out very, very interesting. Suddenly, after breakfast, it turned out that everyone was already mentally ready for a dash on the Demons and were in a state of mild euphoria, accompanying the beginning of a real adventure. Having quickly assembled the camp, we set out on the road. The asphalt part passed without any difficulties. In the last year, the roads of Karelia have risen to a new level and a small section, 40 kilometers long, is overcome quite easily. Further there was a small section of a broken field road and, having overcome Karshevo, we found ourselves in front of a raised barrier. Further, having overcome the wobbly bridge, we began to go deeper into the thicket.
> The road after the last village looks wilder. 
> The bridge is very sad looking, with the aim of stopping travelers from rash acts and restricting entry to the territory of the reserve "Besov nos". 
In a deep forest, I remembered my first acquaintance with the nature of this northern land. Karelia, for the first time, greeted me with northern summer weather - it rained continuously for 24 hours and the wind blew out, then it rained for half the day, and it was cloudy for half the day, and on the third day it was dry, sunny and beautiful. Then the cycle of three days was repeated and this continued during the 14 days that I spent in Karelia. On the next trip we met as "old" friends and all 15 days it was sunny and warm, it rained a couple of times, but otherwise it was dry and beautiful. It seemed that the local spirits tested me in difficult conditions of bad weather and discomfort, and when they saw that I was not afraid of hardships, they mercifully allowed me to enter their lands. And once my friend, originally from Petrozavodsk, having heard my story about how I came here for the first time, said such a strange phrase - Karelia is a land where gods walk on earth. For some reason, these simple words lay in my soul and since then for me the Karelian land has become a land of miracles.
> The road becomes unusually wide in places. 
> Prepared ambushes are carried out on winches. 
> The less prepared find detours to ambush spots. 
As soon as we found ourselves in the forest, a feeling of the fabulousness of the surrounding world immediately came - giants pines and birch trees that have been growing here for dozens of years rise all around, untouched fields of blueberries and lingonberries are spread around, here and there you can see mushroom colonies - white, russula, boletus ... And the feeling is relentlessly pursued that someone invisible is watching every step, as if the owner of the forest is peering at the guests, trying to understand as soon as possible what to expect from them. And moving deeper and deeper you understand that there is something to take from such unfriendliness of the local forest owner. Here and there you can see traces of thoughtless attempts to drive right here - the trees are hewn with winch cables, which were used to tie them up without protective slings, the road was literally "blown up" by fans to press down on the gas pedal, when the SUV was already obviously helplessly buried in the ground, occasionally there are spontaneous miniature dumps of technical debris ... It should be noted that in the evening, crossing the Besov's nose and getting up camp, we fell into prostration seeing huge heaps of rubbish all around, most of which was clearly left here by tourists who came here for "cultural rest". But that was later, and until then the presence of someone invisible did not leave for a minute.
> The road winds parallel to the Chernaya River and therefore views of the water and autumn forest often flicker from the side. 
> More often than not, especially ambush spots have detours. 
> The views of the river and the crimson autumn forest are mesmerizing. 
> On the opposite bank you can see "Lysaya Gora" at the base of Mount Kalya (71 meters by the way). 
> You have to drive carefully. 
> Often you have to trample in puddles - it is not possible to determine the patency by eye. 
> There are the first ones reminding of a raging hurricane - the butt of a fallen tree is noticeably higher than the car. 
> The road goes somewhere up the stone. When you drive on such a road for the first time you experience very unusual sensations. 
Overcoming pits full of dirty water, overcoming local swamps, the bottom of which consisted of white clay, we crawled forward. The whole team spent almost the whole day on their feet - they had to carry cables, measure fords, help each other in overcoming difficult terrain, circle around the car when there was a slalom among tree trunks and stumps. In the late afternoon, pretty tired, we got to the shore of Lake Onega. To tell the truth - I could not believe it exactly until we went down to the sand of the beach. Only when the dense, still air of the forest, saturated with the smells of grasses, trees, the sounds of birds and animals, was replaced by fresh and clean moist air that flew from Onega - only then did the understanding come that we had overcome this road and we came to the shore of Onega. There was only a kilometer left before Besov's nose. In order not to hurry and calmly walk around, wander around, we decided to go for a walk to Cape Kladovets, see petroglyphs, drive a little inland and set up camp in order to leave the inspection of the Devil's nose the next morning.
> Onego ahead! 
> The smallest security guard of the team jumped out to stretch his paws after a day of shaking in a stuffy car over pits and bumps. 
> The shore of Lake Onega is predominantly sandy, in places interspersed with stone capes.
In the vicinity of Cape Kladovets, we met two geodesists of a very mysterious species, who were conducting some kind of observation or research in part of the terrain. And besides these two, we also met a wonderful cheerful shaggy dog of beige color, it was not clear where it came from. Sobakin deftly galloped over the stones, darted among the mast pines that covered Cape Kladovets and looked very joyful and pleased with his life. It seemed to us that in what form the local spirit of the forest should live, so we decided to treat him with tasty treats, so as not to anger with our presence. The spirit of the forest turned out to be very friendly and peaceful - the sky cleared, although heavy gray clouds hung in the sky all day, the setting sun came out and the wind coming from Onega began to subside. In order to somehow call the cheerful spirit of the forest in the form of a dog, we named him Chuyu. Chui cheerfully galloped after us, showed us the petroglyphs, rolled on the rocks of the cape.
> Here it is - the peppy spirit of the Chui forest. 
> Petroglyphs of Cape Kladovets. Unfortunately, most of the stone rock (!) Has been taken away for souvenirs. 
> Petroglyphs of Cape Kladovets 
> Petroglyphs of Cape Kladovets
After wandering a little more, we returned to the cars and drove off to set up the camp. The day that was coming to an end turned out to be rich not only in new emotions, but also in the harvest of mushrooms. Having built a delicious dinner, we decided to sit for a while, chat about this and that. The restless Chui turned around the camp, got a portion of the evening delicacies, was very pleased with them, and wishing us good night, rushed off somewhere in the twilight to settle for the night.
> Cape Karetsky can be seen in the distance. 
> Pleasant fatigue encouraged a quiet pastime.
> The red disk of the sun was sinking in the endless smooth surface of the great Onego. 
> "Noble Dony" during the evening leisurely conversation help with the strength of the field cooking. 
The morning greeted us with wonderful weather, conducive to a short walk. Having had breakfast, quickly, a group of enthusiasts set off to conquer Cape Besov Nos. The road from the mainland to the tip of Besov's nose makes it possible to feel the power of nature and the power of the hurricane that hit the cape several years ago - the mighty pines were upturned from the ground, tall, larger than a man, butts of giant pines can be seen here and there. Having made our way through the windbreak, we went to the old idle lighthouse, saw below the blackened coastal cliffs of the cape and walked along them, carefully moving from one stone to another. After a while, the first petroglyphs appeared, the number of which increased as they approached the center of the entire group of images - Besu.
> Windbreak blocked the road to the Devil's nose. 
> A non-working lighthouse, hinting that Cape Besov's nose is already close. 
> Chui's cheerful spirit accompanied us on this walk. 
> The same Bes. 
> Petroglyphs of Cape Besov nose. 
> Petroglyphs of Cape Besov nose. 
> A monumental canvas for the painting of our ancestors. 
> Chuy watched closely to keep things calm 
On the way back to the camp, we decided to go along the coast - although a little longer, but the views are wonderful. When we got to the camp, the second breakfast was already prepared and there was a leisurely gathering. Indeed, it was not worth delaying too much - we had an unknown road to Shalsky, the state of which was unknown and which could also end with an insurmountable obstacle that could turn us in the opposite direction in the direction of Karshevo.
> View from the camp on the Besov nose. 
Schematically, the road to Shalsky can be divided into three special stages separated by runs along the sandy coastline of Onega. And although our return journey was somewhat longer than the arrival from Karshevo, thanks to the long journeys along the Onega bank, we hoped to get to civilization as soon as possible. Indeed, the run along the coastline made up about 60 percent of the way, but we remembered the remaining 40 percent of the way for a long time.
> The team is ready to go. 
The first special section began immediately after the Shalsky tract (? In many sources it is listed as the former village of Besonosovka) and consisted of a complex mud road, limited by the fact that it was actually cut through a windbreak and often changed directions. By the way, our cheerful spirit Chui stubbornly accompanied us to the shore. While we were driving ashore, he remained in the forest, sitting on the ground, and as soon as we were on sandy beach He glanced at Onega, shook his tail and, wishing us a good journey home, rushed off somewhere into the forest on his forestry business. The second special stage was a little more difficult, because stone rapids of a small height and an abundance of hemp of all stripes were added to the mud road. The third special stage began with a hill, 20 meters in height and a rise of 45-50 degrees, which had to be overcome with winches. Then the road retained all the previous features - stone rapids, hemp, stony dry rivers, mud, and additionally more stones appeared. After we again found ourselves on the sandy Onega beach, several kilometers of a beach road on the sand awaited us, the finish of which was the village of Shalsky.
> The road again indulged in views of the forest, painted with golden-purple flowers. 
> The first stone rapids appear. 
> Overcome such stone mountains. 
> There are still fields of moss around, with crimson drops of lingonberry and blots of blueberries. 
> From time to time there are hunting lodges, which in some incredible way nestled on the stones. 
> In some places, to drive along the beach, you have to overcome such spits. 
> There is no photo showing the steepness of the slide, so just a view through the eyes of the pilot.
> Stone rapids have become commonplace. 
> Stone trial, from a certain point, ceased to strain. 
> Rocky banks of Onega. 
As soon as we stopped in the center of the village, the sky was covered with dark heavy leaden clouds (although this could have happened earlier, only we did not notice), and the way back to civilization was somehow somewhat difficult, so we wanted not to fool with an overnight stay in the field. We only had to drive a little to Pudozh and there, we decided to look for a guest house with beds, hot showers and clean linen. While replenishing fuel supplies at a TNK dispenser at the outskirts of the city, we noticed unobtrusively spread business cards of a local guest house at the checkout. We decided to go to it - we never regretted anything. The house stands in the depths of Pudozh, on a dead-end street, there is silence and tranquility around, behind the site on which the house stands, the Vodla river winds. Having parked our cars in the yard, we took out especially valuable things, some food items and went to rest.
> A bit of beach vegetation. 
> Asphalt and civilization - as if it were on another planet, especially after two days at one with nature and the team. 
And ahead of us were the kilometers of the Karelian grader, the Osudareva road, repairs and the western shore of Lake Onega.
