There are many interesting and picturesque corners on our planet, where once you get there, you want to return again and again. One of these places is Bohemian (Bohemian) Switzerland or, as the locals call it, Saxon Switzerland.
This park was founded not so long ago, at the beginning of the 2000s. Its territory is about 80 sq. km. When creating the park, the country's authorities wanted to preserve the area of untouched nature in its original state. And they succeeded. It's amazing here Beautiful places with minimal human intervention.
The basis of the park is made up of unique sand formations in the form of rocks. The rocks are covered with ancient forests with rare plant species. It is believed that the rocks were formed about 10 million years, and over time, when the water receded, the rocks, on the contrary, protruded. These sandy deposits were compressed mainly during the Mesozoic period under the influence of wind, temperature changes and other natural phenomena.
Unique natural formations impress with their picturesqueness: canyons, arches, windows, etc. And the ruins of fortresses and other medieval buildings, which have been perfectly preserved to this day, fit very harmoniously into all this. Many photographers come here to capture the unique beauty of these places.
Story
For the first time this territory began to be inhabited by nomadic tribes of hunters and gatherers about 10 thousand years ago. They settled mainly near water bodies. Until now, after spring floods, local residents discover ancient tools and utensils.
A little later, farmers began to settle in these places, for whom the lands along the tributaries of the river were the most fertile. Over time, to strengthen their settlements, people began to build walls and even build forts, the ruins of which are scattered throughout the national park.
In the 14th century, Saxon colonialists settled on these lands, who were engaged in logging. In those days, there were real impenetrable thickets here. They also settled here, in some places even the ruins of entire settlements with specific architecture remained.
But it was precisely two Swiss restorers who made this area touristic, who were invited to Dresden to restore one estate. During their vacation, they often walked along the modern territory of the national park from Dresden and admired the beauties of these places. And at the end of the work, they stayed here to live, because the local rocks very much reminded them of their native Switzerland. And so the name "Switzerland" got accustomed to this place. Since the end of the 18th century, this area has been called “Saxon Switzerland”.
In the 19th century, local communities opened the first tourist routes for travelers. The mining society of Bohemian Switzerland began to open the first hotels and restaurants here. They began to equip viewing platforms and clear the most beautiful gorges. And on the Elbe River, everything was equipped for lovers of sailing. In general, everything was equipped for a comfortable stay of tourists in these places.
Where is
Conventionally, the park is divided into German and Czech parts, which are separated by the border between the states and the Elbe River in the west of the park.
Czech Switzerland is located in the northern part of the Czech Republic, close to the border with Germany and 40 km. from Dresden. The highest part of this park is Mount Dechinsky Snezhnik with a height of just over 700 meters. by the most popular place tourists are the Pravchitsky Gate, which was formed due to rain and severe erosion.
How to get there
In fact, there are only two options to get to this fabulous place: on your own in a rented or your own car, or with a guided tour. excursion tour can be bought at any travel agency in. The cost of such a tour is from 30 euros and more, depending on the number of people in the group. You will also have to pay separately for visiting certain attractions.
If you get there on your own, you can enter the park both from German territory and from the Czech Republic. V national park You can call in in different ways: both along the autobahn and along ordinary roads. But it is worth using a map or navigator so as not to get lost.
You can also take a train from Prague to the city of Decin, and then go to the village of Khrzhensko by bus number 434.
When is the best time to go?
The park is open all year round. From November to March, the park is open from 10.00 to 16.00. And from April to October 10.00 - 18.00.
The most successful time to visit the park is spring and autumn, when it is not very hot, and you can spend a lot of time walking and relaxing.
The entrance ticket can be bought at the entrance to the park, it costs 70 crowns. Additional excursions will have to be paid separately. In the park you can go boating, with a sightseeing tour of the gorge, or visit the castles.
Tourism
The entire territory of the park is marked with special hiking trails, from which it is impossible to leave. Therefore, it is worth buying a map of the park immediately at the entrance. All trails are accessible. There are even routes for cyclists. You can rent a bike right in the park. There are also rock climbing areas in the park.
Fans of camping can spend the night immediately in the reserve, but this is allowed in special camp areas. Walking in the park is allowed even with pets, so you can safely bring your favorite pets for walking.
For more convenient rest in the reserve and search for places in the park, there are several tourist centers located in different parts of the park. The main tourist center is located in Krasnaya Lipa. It is open daily from 9:00 a.m. until the park closes. There are also information centers in Khrzhensko, Saule, Serbian Kamenica.
When traveling to Czech Switzerland, you should definitely take comfortable shoes and clothes. It is hardly easy to get uphill in heels or tight trousers. Be sure to take a couple of bottles of water with you, as water is much more expensive in the park.
sights
The basis of the reserve is forests and rocks. But even in addition to the stunning beauty of landscapes, you can see architectural sights in the park.
Pravchitsky Gate
The main attraction of the park is the Pravchitsky Gate arch. The gate is the symbol of the park. Tourists tend to see this colorful and miraculous property. Nature has been creating this huge hole in the rock for many millennia. And only after passing through it, you can really admire the work of nature. From the observation deck near the arch, a stunning view of the canyon from below opens. But climbing to the top of the arch is strictly prohibited.
Falcon's Nest Castle
This castle is located near the Pravchitsky Gate. It was built in 1881 by a noble Czech family, literally within a year. The walls of the castle are built into the rock, which gives it an extraordinary charm and simplicity. High-ranking guests have always been received here. The castle has ancient interiors and a restaurant decorated in the style of the Middle Ages. The view from the restaurant is amazing, but the menu is scarce, but with greatly inflated prices for dishes.
Ruins of Schaunstein Castle
They are another picturesque place that deserves attention. Once upon a time, barons engaged in robbery lived in this place. The barons themselves did not build the castle, they simply captured the already built defensive fort and firmly settled in it, changing its name to the “castle of thieves”. You can climb to the ruins through a narrow gorge along a steep staircase thrown over a cliff. Today, tourists come here to see the beautiful views that open from the observation deck near the ruins.
Canyons of the Kamenitsa River
For a fee, you can see the beauty of the canyons from the gondola. During this journey, you can see a man-made waterfall leading to a cave with a pirate castle.
Dolskaya mill
This is another picturesque place, but it is located in a dense forest, and it is impossible to see the surroundings from it. The ruins of the fortress are used as scenery in films. By the way, it is believed that it was thanks to the films that this place became famous. The mill operated from the end of the 14th century and was destroyed for many years due to the impact of natural phenomena. But having declared this area a reserve, the restorers took up the mill. And in 2007, the mill became a national architectural monument.
royal spruce
Not far from the Dolskaya mill there is an ancient fir tree, which is over 180 years old, and the tree trunk has grown to a width of more than three meters. Spruce is protected by the state no less than other monuments.
Falkenstein Castle
This is one of ancient places parka. The castle was built in 1394 on a high hill. This building was built for the purpose of defense against robbers. Climbing the walls of this castle was very difficult. Many parts of this castle are perfectly preserved, as they were carved into the rocks. Several legends are associated with it, one of which says that the robbers who wanted to capture this castle were caught. Then hanged. And soon angry dogs began to run around the castle, which can be found today in the vicinity of the castle. Local residents believe that these are the very robbers who are trying to take revenge on their killers.
mouse hole
Such a strange name has a staircase that leads to the top of the hill through a narrow gorge. There are a lot of steps at the stairs, and many tourists who go down the back constantly shout “Wow!”. It's hard to say why, but perhaps they admire their excellent physical shape. Initially, the locals called this staircase the staircase of the Angels. But the owner of the estate did not like the name, and he renamed it in his own way.
Chrzypska
Everyone has heard about Bohemian glass, but no one knows that it is not made in Bohemia, but in a workshop in Czech Switzerland in the village of Chrzypska. Since the 14th century, the very Bohemian glass that was admired before and admired to this day has been produced here. Today, excursions are not taken to the production, but in the village you can buy products made from real Bohemian glass for almost a penny.
Viewpoint Belvedere
This is a huge rocky terrace located above the canyon of the Laba River. The platform height is 130 meters. Not far from the site, the Belvedere Hotel was built, from the windows of which stunning views of the surroundings open. This site is considered the very first observation deck in Bohemian Switzerland. It was built by the owners of the estate, who owned almost the entire part of modern Czech Switzerland.
Silver mines of Jiržetin pod Jedlová
Precious metals have been mined in the ancient Mines of these mines for a long time. Today, in order to feel the spirit hovering in the dungeon, you can put on a mining helmet with a lantern and go down into the mine tunnels. these mines first opened in 1474. Silver and copper have been mined in the mines for over two hundred years. But the Thirty Years' War forced the owners to cover their booty. When mining resumed several decades later, it turned out that it was no longer profitable and the mines were closed again. Today, tour groups lead here, showing and telling in detail how the process of mining takes place.
What else to see?
- You should definitely visit the city of Decin, which is located in the vicinity of Czech Switzerland. The main attraction of the city is the Decin Castle, built in the 8th century. V different time The castle was both a military and defensive structure and the residence of aristocratic families and even monarchs. The city also has a small zoo and water park.
Video trip to Decin:
- Khrzhensko is a small village, from which all excursions to Czech Switzerland begin. This is a nice and very hospitable place where you can relax and drink real Czech beer with German sausages. The village is located along the river Kamenitsa. The city is known for selling gnomes for gardens at almost every step, of various types, sizes, colors and for every taste.
A trip to Czech Switzerland is a solitude with nature, acquaintance with unusual sandy cliffs and a great chance to get acquainted with the sights created by Mother Nature herself.
One of the oldest and most famous nature reserves is Bohemian Switzerland. These lands were first discovered by Swiss and German artists. It happened in the era of romanticism. A hundred years later, Bohemian Switzerland was declared a national park. This is the fourth national park in the Czech Republic. In this article, we will learn how to get to the national park, and some information about the place.
The territory of the park Bohemian Switzerland
There are boarding houses and restaurants in the park. They are strewn along hiking and cycling trails. The Falcon's Nest Castle and the Pravchitsky Gates are the most famous places. The latter are generally a symbol of the whole region. This is the largest natural gate from the rock massif. They are absolutely rightfully considered the most beautiful part of Bohemian Switzerland. The base of the gate is twenty-six and a half meters, the width is seven to eight meters, the height of the arch is sixteen meters, the minimum thickness is three meters, and the highest platform is twenty-one meters from the base. It can be compared in importance with the Great American Canyon.
To visit the Czech Republic and ignore the Pravchitsky Gate is just a crime. They are inextricably linked with the Falcon's Nest residence. Just think, on the site of the castle until 1881 there was a small oak house and a pub. And today it is one of the main points on the map of the route through the reserve. Imagine an easy but long climb, and here you are enjoying golden Czech beer and looking at the country lying under your feet. The spirit of the Middle Ages is felt at the expense of Dolsky Mlyn, the ruins of a medieval mill. There is a small inconspicuous bridge nearby, but it attracts the attention of tourists very much. After all, this is the first reinforced concrete structure in Austria-Hungary. Lovers of antiquity and castles will also have something to see.
Visit the ancient rock castle Falkenstein. Together with Schaunstein Castle, Falkenstein is the most famous, and after visiting it there are a lot of positive impressions. Of course, you can not ignore the Czech crystal, which is called "Bohemian". However, it is not produced in Bohemia at all, but in Czech Switzerland. The oldest still operating glassworks in Europe is located in the village of Chrzypska. It was founded around the 1500s, and maybe earlier. Tours there are very popular. Tourists are very interested to know how this ancient production works.
Park opening hours:
The reserve is open to visitors all year round:
- April - October from 10:00 to 18:00,
- November - March weekend from 10:00 to 16:00.
*Entrance ticket to the territory of the reserve costs 50 kroons. Also on the territory there is an opportunity to buy additional excursions are paid separately.
Excursion "On a canoe through the Edmund Gorge" duration 15-20 minutes, price 80 EEK for adults, 40 EEK for children.
How to get from Prague to Czech Switzerland
Czech Switzerland by train from Prague. In Prague, you need to buy a ticket to the town of Decin (Děčín). Then you will need to make a transfer, at the station by bus to the Hřensko stop. This is actually the end point. Bus number 434
There are places where this amazing piece of land looks like a land hidden from mankind and preserved in its original beauty.
Download guide and brochureThis exceptional natural treasure even made it to Yosemite National Park and South America's Galapagos Islands on the Must-visit 501 - Wild places travel list.
However, a closer acquaintance will allow us to make sure that this region is by no means as uninhabited and pristine as it seems at first glance. Moving through its territory, you will find out that among the deep gorges and high cliffs there are many surprises. The local cliffs are surrounded by steep steps, and on the peaks one can see lonely ruins, covered with legends about robber knights, fairies and giants. With all this, the road to this quietest fabulous land from the noisy metropolitan Prague takes no more than two hours.
Walk on the sea floor
The Czech Switzerland National Park is the youngest of the four national parks in the Czech Republic. You will find it on the border with Germany, which separates "Bohemian Switzerland" from its twin, "Saxon Switzerland". Millions of years ago, the sea stretched here. Having subsided, it left behind a unique region, which, being the lowest point in the Czech Republic, resembles mountains. This land of high sandstone cliffs and towers, rocky arches, ravines and mountains with truncated peaks served as a refuge for ancient people more than 10,000 years ago. In the 13-14 centuries, German settlers began to build villages and entire future cities here, fortresses of knights grew on the rocks, who often engaged in robbery. In troubled times, local residents hid here from the armies marching along this region during the wars, which were never lacking near the historical border between the Czech and German lands. Until now, you will find here many reminders of these distant events - inscriptions carved on the rocks by the villagers themselves, conciliatory crosses, rock chapels and abandoned church paths.
Photos: ( Martin Rak,Vaclav Sojka)
Artists, poets and early travelers
The wild nature and hidden beauty of the region, which for a long time developed without human intervention, were discovered at the end of the 18th century by two Swiss artists of the Romantic era - Adrian Zingg and Anton Graf. Depicting this region in engravings and describing it in verse, they spread its rapidly growing fame throughout Europe. The sites along the Elbe Canyon have become the cradle of modern tourism, becoming one of the first heavily visited tourist attractions in Europe. For the beauty and mystery of Czech Switzerland rushed more and more visitors. Caspar David Friedrich, one of the most famous landscape painters of all time, also came here for the motives of his paintings. The owners of the local estates understood the attractiveness of the local dense forests, as well as the romantic outlines of the rocks, and made a lot of efforts to make them as accessible as possible by building roads and bridges. Steps were made on the Mariana Rock, the Wall of Velhelm and the Stone of Rudolf, benches were placed, and gazebos were placed on the tops. Along the roads, new taverns and places for lodging for the night were opened for tourists, walking paths appeared, and the wild river Kamenice was used to move between the gorges.
Not only artists, but also famous poets, writers, composers came to these virgin lands for their stories and legends. The fortresses of the robber knights, rocky places, legends about gnomes and fairies influenced celebrities, including the storyteller Hans Christian Andersen, the poet R.M. Rilke, composers K.M. von Weber, Richard Wagner and others.
Czech Switzerland in the memoirs of G.Kh. Andersen and R.M. Rilke
The poet R. M. Rilke visited Jetrchichovice in 1892 and recalls his visit in the following way: “I want, dear reader, to take you to the land where mighty giant rocks open their giant gray crowns from a dark fir forest, and meadows dotted with flowers dreamily stretch along a murmuring stream. …. Throughout the area, thousands of roads beckon deep into the mysterious wilderness. Everything here attracts to sweet, carefree rest - and already today. Long hollows with moss cushions and heather carpets resemble purple featherbeds, trees look like a majestic canopy, and tall fern fans breathe blissful freshness.
Passionate traveler Hans Christian Andersen even captured his impressions of the road from his native Copenhagen to the Czech Republic in the book " Shady pictures of a journey through the Harz and Saxon Switzerland». Emotionally and romantically, in the spirit of his era, he perceives both the country and the people he met on his way. He spent only a few hours in the Czech Republic, comparing it with the well-known tune that sounds inside us, full of life: “In my recollections, this beautiful land spread out, flooded with sunlight. I clearly see every detail of it, in my soul it is like a beautiful melody, despite the fact that I cannot express it in separate tones and motives.
I see this big edge in the forest with huge spruce trees, where we were told that we had just crossed the border, I see heavily tanned Czech girls with white headscarves and bare feet that we met in a dark spruce forest, and, finally, the pristine a section of the Pravchitsky Gate rocks, where we stood under a stone arch thrown over our heads by the mighty genius of nature. I see vast dark forests somewhere below us and distant mountains with snow shimmering in the sun.
Photo: (Vaclav Sojka)
And today the Pravchitsky Gate conquers artists, including the creators of fairy tales. Film director "The Chronicles of Narnia - The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe" found in the snow-covered Silent Rocks the ideal scenery for his interpretation of this story. Andrew Adamson chose Tisza because of the abundance of snow cover and unrealistically beautiful terrain with a natural labyrinth of rocks, where even in the 19th century few people dared to enter without a guide. Thus, he wanted to get as close as possible to the world that S.K. Lewis created with his imagination on the pages of books. It was here that Lucy visited the cave of the Faun Tumnus, and all four brothers and sisters crossed the rocky bridge for the first time and looked at the endless forests of Narnia.
The rock city of the Til Walls and in general the whole of Bohemian Switzerland today is a real paradise for tourists and climbers. The first sports trips to the tops of the rocks took place already at the beginning of the 20th century. Since then, there have been many climbing trails. Climbing is possible on the various mountain towers of the rocky town with the poetic names "Baldur's Needle", "Golem", "Forest Drop", "Stone of the Wise Men", "Rudolfinum".
© Martin Rak
The once quite extensive fortress of the 13th century became the residence of Michel Blekta from Utěchovice two centuries later, who with his retinue carried out robbery raids on the surroundings. At the end of the 15th century, the fortress fell into decay, since the 19th century this place became available to the public.
© Franta Krivan
Sometimes also called the Robber Fortress, it is one of the most beautiful rock fortifications in Bohemian Switzerland. Since the turn of the 14th and 15th centuries, it has guarded the so-called "Czech Highway" - an important trade route connecting the Czech Republic and Lausitz. The owners of the Berkov fortress from Dube earned themselves the unflattering reputation of robbers, and the fortification itself served as a refuge for them to carry out robbery raids around. At the end of the 15th century, the object was abandoned and gradually fell into disrepair.
Definitely worth climbing to the top of the fortress, not only to get to know the ruins of the fortifications, but also because of the magnificent view that opens up from the top.
© Ladislav Renner
At the top of the cliff, already many thousands of years ago there was a cave of ancient hunters. The fortress, which originally stood here, was built in the 13th century and gradually changed several owners, among whom a robber knight appeared, was surrounded and burned several times. In the 17th century, hermits settled here, who lived on top of the rock for more than a hundred years. Later, Count Kinsky rebuilt the fortress into a place of country rest for his guests. Among the visitors are the names of Archduke Franz Karl and Stephen of Habsburg, the Saxon King Friedrich August, and in 1847 the future Emperor Franz Joseph I visited with his brothers.
© Jiri Stejskal
Once a Gothic fortress, over the centuries it became both the residence of a noble family and the refuge of robber knights. The current ruins are still covered with many stories and legends. Here, supposedly, the ghosts of the White Lady and the big black dog appear, the dungeon is riddled with a labyrinth of secret passages, and in front of the fortress there is a spring, with the water of which particles of gold scatter; in the stream you can find rare and precious stones.
x 1 /On a boat to the end of the world
One of the main attractions of Bohemian Switzerland, which, according to the authors of the book 501 Wildplaces, should not be left unattended along with the Pravcicki Gate, is also a romantic boat trip through the Silent and Wild Canyons on the Kamenica River. We are talking about a short but impressive boat trip with a gondolier between two sheer cliffs - in some places it is so deep that direct sunlight rarely gets here.
© Tomas Pavlasek
In Czech Switzerland - the first observation deck, the creation of which had a hand in man. It offers breathtaking views of the deep canyon of the Elbe River, as well as the German mesas of Zirkelstein and Kaiserkrone. Once upon a time, concerts in the bosom of nature were held on this site of the Clari-Aldringen. By their order, the “terrena” hall, a small estate nearby and, a little later, a 4-kilometer path for carriages, leading then to their palace in the village of Bynovets, were built. Now this route is marked with tourist marks.
© Vaclav Sojka
One of the largest natural rock arches on our continent, without a doubt, the most beautiful natural formation in Bohemian Switzerland and a recognizable symbol of the entire region at first sight. Since 1881, the Falcon's Nest summer estate has been inseparably connected with the Pravchitsky Gate, originally used to accommodate honored guests of the Clari-Aldringen family. Today, the National Park Museum is located on the second floor of the building, and on the first floor there is a preserved stylish restaurant with its original design.
© Vladimir Pešek
Labyrinth length underground passages is 4500 meters. At the end of World War II, they were laid by prisoners of the Flossenbürg and Rabstein concentration camps. The underground plant produced parts for airplanes, cannons, machine guns and air missiles. During the construction of the underground factory, several dozen prisoners died. Today, the Museum of the concentration camp is located here.
© Jiri Stejskal
Treasure of Northern Bohemia of the Baroque era, designed by the architect Johann Lukas von Hildebrandt. At the place of pilgrimage in the name of the Blessed Virgin Mary, which is already three hundred years old, liturgies, services in honor of the procession and the Holy Stairs are held.
© Vaclav Sojka
With its expressive outlines and, above all, an excess of up to 300 m compared to the rest of the terrain, it creates a bright dominant of the region. With a height of 619 m above sea level, the so-called Bohemian Fujiyama is the highest point in the Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and in the Bohemian-Saxon Switzerland region, the second highest mountain after Decinske Sneznik. It is likely that at one time pagan rites were performed here, and there was also a place of pilgrimage. The German tribes allegedly worshiped the Ruzhovsky hill as the abode of the gods. In many paintings, the motif of this mountain is noticeable - for example, “Traveler over the Sea of Fog” (Poutník nad mořem mlh) (1818) by the German artist Gaspard David Friedrich.
x 1 /Once upon a time, this was a serious obstacle that the inhabitants of local villages on the right bank had to somehow overcome when they wanted to get to the church in the village of Růžová on the other side of the river. At the same time, wood has been floated along the majestic river routes since time immemorial, and in winter, when trout and salmon abounded in the local waters, they became a paradise for fishermen. One day in 1877, in the U Zeleného stromu tavern in the town of Hřensko, five daredevils made a bet that they would sail on rafts from the Dolsky mill to the place that was then called "the end of the world." On swimming structures 4 meters long, they, indeed, safely reached Grzhensk, in fact, becoming the founders of the tourist use of these waterways. Prince Clari-Aldringen invited specialists from Italy, under whose leadership, over two hundred workers made these sites accessible to the public. Suspension bridges and bridges were thrown here, tunnels were laid with the help of explosives. On May 4, 1890, the opening of the "Quiet" ("Edmond's") canyon took place in a solemn ceremony. Since then, "at the very end of the world", in fact, nothing has changed much, the beauties of nature remain untouched, and carriers, as more than 130 years ago, drive and guide their boats with poles.
Photo: (Jerzy Strzelecki, Václav Sojka)
Czech Switzerland (České Švýcarsko)- the most beautiful corner of nature in the north-west of the Czech Republic. The area adjoins the German Saxon Switzerland and is famous for its unusual shape of limestone cliffs, gorges and dense forests that stretch out in the Elbe (Labe) river basin. In 2000, an area of 79 km2 officially became a national park and came under state protection. On the territory of this park there are several small settlements - starting points, from where you can follow the tourist routes, getting acquainted with the beautiful nature of this reserve. And Grzensko is the best of them.
Grzhensko (Hrensko)- this is a very nice and hospitable border town, located near the border with Germany on the banks of the river Elbe. This picturesque village with half-timbered houses is considered the gateway to the Czech Switzerland National Reserve and, at the same time, the place where the Elbe River says goodbye to the Czech Republic.
How we got there:
1. from the railway station in Prague (Praha) by train to Decin (Děčín) - ticket price 159 CZK;
2. by bus from Decin to Hřensko - ticket price 27 CZK.
All information on transport in the Czech Republic can be found.
We buy tickets to the side Decin, we take the train and go to Decin. By the way - tickets are not tied to any train in time, the purchased ticket is valid for two days and the more people - the cheaper tickets, for four of us we got 501 CZK. An even greater discount comes when buying tickets in both directions at once.
In Decin we sit on 434 bus, which will take us to Grzhensko. There is a stop right in front of the station, but we, to be sure, reached the bus station. The bus does not run often - once every 2 hours (every hour on weekends), so we had time to take a walk and have a bite to eat.
Right on the bus we buy tickets and go to Grzhensko.
And here is the sign "Hrensko" (it should not be read "Khrensko", but "Grzhensko" or, at worst, "Khrzhensko").
Along the road, the Czech Laba from the German side, it is called more familiar to us - Elbe.
From Grzhensko there is a ferry to the other side of the Elbe (Laba), where Germany is already located. And from Decin to Grzhensko there is a steamboat. Also, many people come here by car. Previously, the border was closed. But after the entry of the Czech Republic into the European Union, everything changed. Now it is a border crossing.
A beautiful view of the most beautiful wooded cliffs of amazing shapes and sizes opens up already when approaching the Czech border.
These rocks are a real miracle of nature.
The whole small town of Grzhensko stretched out on both sides of the river Kamenitsa, which originates in the mountains, and here flows into the Elbe.
Along the edges of the gorge, like entrance towers, there are an information center and the Labe Hotel.
"Labe" looks especially impressive - it seems that a rock is leaning against it.
The history of the area in which the village of Grzhensko is located began in the 15th century. Near the mouth of the Kamenice River there was a timber storage, and a mill also worked. Already in the 18th century, there were four sawmills here, several places for tying rafts also worked, and wood was rafted to remote places. A special feature was the powerful hundred-year-old trunks supplied to the shipyards for the masts of large sailboats. The next important industry was the extraction and processing of sandstone, which was taken even to Dresden. People also made their living by smuggling (the Podłudnice trail). Salt, tobacco, cloth and other goods were transported here. In the 19th century, tourism began to develop in Grzensko, supported by the owner of the panate, Edmund Clary-Aldringen. In the 30s of the 19th century, the path from Hřensko to the Pravčice Gate was improved, hotels, boarding houses and inns appeared.
And this is the main city square, as miniature as the whole city. On it, built in 1786-87, is the baroque church of St. John of Nepomuk, in front of which stands his sculpture, created in 1756.
Across the city, to please the Germans, stretched the ranks of Vietnamese merchants with cheap (compared to Germany) prices.
An unusual phenomenon in the town is a lively trade in gnomes and statues for vegetable gardens. This unusual item of trade creates a very cute and funny picture, a feeling of some kind of magic. A wide variety of gnomes and other fairy-tale characters are waiting for their new owners.
Due to its position at the confluence of the Labe and Kamenice rivers, Grzensko, with its 150 m above sea level, is the lowest point in the Czech Republic. Despite the very low altitude, the surrounding nature creates a very interesting effect, thanks to which you will feel like you are in the mountains.
A little advice for tourists: life in Grzhensko ends at 20.00 local time. So you need to have time to eat and drink beer before this time. And shops and malls close even earlier.
The series of houses along Kamenitsa is completed by the Praha Hotel - one of the best in the city. And the whole Grzhensko from "Labe" to "Praha" can be walked in 15 minutes.
Grzhensko is the starting point for excursions to Pravchitsky Gate- the largest natural rock bridge on our continent and to the river gorges Kamenice where you can go boating and listen to the ferryman's stories.
And it is about these tourist routes that I will tell in the following parts of our trip to Czech Switzerland:
My first trip to "Czech Switzerland" ( České Švýcarsko) was random: while preparing for a Christmas tour of European cities (the main one was Prague), I was looking for what to see on the territory of different countries and how best to plan my route. And then I came across the Pravchitsky Gate. “What is it, where is it, how is it?” - there were no answers on the Internet, which means that you have to go and explore everything yourself!
And on the way from Dresden to Prague after the national park "Saxon Switzerland" (and I already talked about the trip there), I find myself in "Czech Switzerland". The nature there is really different from what I used to see in the center of the Czech Republic.
Yes, and inspection of at least the main attractions promises leisure. On my second visit to the national park in summer, and not in winter, I spent the whole day exploring the “Saxon” and “Bohemian” Switzerland: I left Dresden early in the morning and returned to Prague late in the evening. And this is taking into account the fact that the distance between cities is some 150 kilometers - not like long-distance trips in Russia.
I had to walk a lot, so I advise you to be fully equipped: sports shoes (preferably with soft shock-absorbing soles, since my feet literally “buzzed” after the Pravchitsky Gate alone), comfortable clothes, a bottle of water and maybe some then a snack.
So, what is the "Czech Switzerland" and what can you see there? Now I'll tell you.
History of the park
I did not hear any legends and epics around the rocks, crevices and canyons formed here several thousand years ago due to the movement of volcanic rocks.
Therefore, I had to look for interesting information myself. It turns out that in the XIII-XIV centuries, colonialists from the lands where modern Germany is now located were invited here, and castles and other buildings were built by their forces. They also began the production of glass and coal mining. But due to the lack of plains and dense forests, their life was, to put it mildly, not simple and very specific. In one place, I saw with my own eyes that food and other necessary things are not so easy to deliver here. But more on that below.
So, all this specificity was reflected in the architecture. But in the last century, many buildings and even settlements fell into disrepair. Probably, the possibility and availability of an easier life played an important role and people simply simply moved. Now in some places on the territory of the "Czech Switzerland" you can see the most picturesque ruins!
I already talked about the name of the park, namely the word "Switzerland", so I will not repeat myself. In 2000, this area was given the status of a national reserve.
Geography of the park
České Švýcarsko- all the same Elbe Sandstone Mountains, which I talked about at the time. More precisely, a quarter of this mountain range. The national park is located in the north of the country, its western border runs along the Elbe River. It was from there that I visited the “Czech Switzerland” both times. Actually, both national parks ("Saxon" and "Czech") are separated by the border between Germany and the Czech Republic, they are adjacent to each other.
The highest point of the national park is Mount Dechinsky Snezhnik ( Děčínský Sněžník) - is located at around 723 meters above sea level. When I first heard about it, I smiled: I arrived in “Bohemian Switzerland” shortly after the Austrian Alps, where I lived in a hotel at an altitude of about 1,200–1,300 meters. But, in the end, the reserve is not famous for its mountains!
Further along the text, I added some cards. They will help you get a better idea of the geography of the area, but they are unlikely to explain how to get to a particular attraction. But! In the nearest locality for each of them (and you can see them on my maps) you can take a detailed paper map, as well as use the signs along the roads and trails. The park took care of the convenience of sightseeing, which I personally really liked.
How to get to "Czech Switzerland"
There are two global options: with a tour or on your own. I chose to travel in a rented car without guides and a group of onlookers. But for those who want to take a tour of the reserve, I advise you to read about tours from Dresden or Prague to "Saxon Switzerland" (they also offer the Czech part there, I think). Prices, it seems to me, are similar, because there are parks in the neighborhood. Below I will tell you about an independent way to the "Czech Switzerland" by car.
From Prague
From Prague to "Czech Switzerland" you can call in from different directions. There is an option to travel through Hřensko. It is not far from this city that the Pravchitsky Gates are located. By the way, the first time I read Hřensko as Khrensko (I didn’t see the gap above the letter “r”, which makes the sound [rzh]), it just happened: to this day I call the innocent town almost like a vegetable (everyone makes associations to the extent of depravity, right?). I marked the route Via Khrzhensko on the map below, the first half of the way will pass through the motorway, and then I suggest moving along the usual road past the cities and picturesque fields.
You can also enter via Jetřichovice. To the city of Decin (Děčín), the route is the same as the previous one, and at the fork, follow the signs.
Or Krasna Lipa. In theory, you can drive through the same Decin (Děčín), it seems to me that in terms of time it will not be too big a detour.
But the last half hour flew by faster: there were still no toilets along the way, the flow of backpackers is small, but there is always, so now the “walk!” backed up not only by curiosity, but also by obvious necessity.
Along the way, there were such cute “installations”: I don’t know who and why “propped up” the mountain, but the spectacle amused me.
And finally, you can see the estate of the Falcon's Nest (now the hotel / restaurant of the same name) and the Pravchitsky Gates to the right of it. It would seem, only to extend a hand. It was not there: the vertical distance from me to the destination was several tens of meters, which also had to go in a winding way.
But all efforts were justified. The height of the arch itself reaches 26 meters, so standing in this natural opening, you feel all the greatness of nature. In addition, near the gate there was a stall with my favorite ones. By the way, they cost less than at: only 1.25 EUR or 34 CZK.
After passing through the arch of the gate, you can see many paths leading to the viewing platforms. And literally "the whole world is at your feet."
The Falcon's Nest
Almost under the Pravchitsky gates there is a summer estate Falcon's Nest. Once the owners accommodated noble guests in it. Now inside the castle there is an exhibition about the history of "Bohemian Switzerland" and a restaurant.
The original murals have been preserved in the restaurant, and the interior is designed in the style of the beginning of the last century.
I did not have dinner at the restaurant, as the local worker, as I understood, had already closed it. To be honest, I couldn’t fully understand him: he agreed to speak only Czech and German, so the conversation went almost “on the fingers”. But they let me go to the toilet.
Near the "Falcon's Nest" there is a booth with a ropeway control.
I understand that walking and carrying the necessary things here is not handy, so a utility box runs along the cable car, where you can put everything you need and send it up or down.
Lupezhnitsky castle or Schaunstein (Šaunštejn)
I heard that the castle used to be a robber castle. That is, they built it as a fortification, but later it was captured by robbers and changed its name. Šaunštejn is translated as "thieves' castle".
The castle itself has not been preserved, so at present you can be content with ruins and a good observation platform.
Connecting bridges are laid between the parts of this site. You know, the sensations are quite exciting when you walk like this literally next to the abyss along a connecting structure that is quite easy at first glance!
Dolsky mill (Dolský Mlýn)
They say that the fragments that have survived from the mill date back to the beginning of the 14th century!
I heard that in the middle of the last century, the place even became the scenery of a Czech fairy tale movie. You can even say that the film glorified this attraction.
Over time, without care, the mill fell into disrepair more and more, until in 2007 it was declared a cultural monument and the process of destruction was stopped.
By the way, a hundred meters upstream there is a unique building: a reinforced concrete bridge. I heard that this is the first such structure (made of steel and concrete) in the Austro-Hungarian Empire, the bridge was built shortly before its collapse.
The nearest village to the mill is Stone Slopes (Kamenická Stráň) located one kilometer away.
royal spruce
They say that half a kilometer from the Dolskaya mill there is one spruce. Its age is about 180 years, and the coverage of the trunk is about 3 meters. Alas, I myself did not see this ancient tree, as I was limited in time, but you are not too lazy and take a walk to it from the mill.
Hrzhensko (Hrensko)
To be honest, I really liked this small town almost on the border with Germany. Most likely, there are few just residents here: almost everyone runs a hotel, a restaurant, or something else for the needs of tourists. But 2-3-storey houses are decorated very authentically, this is how small rural towns or villages seem to me.
I also liked the fact that globally in Khrzhensko there are only two streets running parallel along two banks. Still, high cliffs do not give room for expanding the territory inland.
If you drive along the river from the road where you turned onto Khrzhensko (remember, I asked you to remember this path?), then at the very end of it, in front of the parking lot, which I mentioned in the part about Pravchitsky Gates, there is a waterfall.
Near it, I took two identical shots towards the city: one in winter, and the second in summer.
The difference, in my opinion, is not big.
There are many souvenirs near the track, but I did not buy anything there. It’s hard to say what the prices are: on the one hand, this is the Czech Republic, on the other hand, Germany and its prices are quite close. There is also another parking lot, you can ask the workers about the toilet nearby.
Other attractions
There are places where I did not manage to visit, but I will definitely make up for it on my next visit:
- Dittersbacher Peaks.
- Waterfalls near Brtniki.
- Boat trip on the river Křinice (Kirnitzschklamm) on the border of the Czech Republic and Germany.
And that's just what I heard after the trip. I'm almost sure that if you start digging, less touristy places in the national park may come up.
Routes in the park
At the moment, there are dozens of well-marked hiking trails and routes in the park: signs, certain specifics of coverage and relief under the guise of tourism, picturesqueness. In "Czech Switzerland" you can climb, ride horses, ride a bike, camp in equipped places (and only in them!).
True, I was engaged in researching the territory on my own, without resorting to the help of tourist centers, but I can tell you the addresses of organizations that will help organize your leisure time if necessary:
- In the city of Krasna Lipa (Krásná Lípa).
- Opening hours: June - August from 09:00 to 18:00, January - February until 16:00, in other months until 17:00; break from 12:00 to 12:30.
- Address: Krinickenam. 5, Krasna Lipa 407 46.
- In Khrzhensko (Hrensko).
- Opening hours: November - January from 09:00 to 17:00, in other months until 18:00.
- Address: Hrensko 71, 407 17 Hrensko.
- In Srbska Kamenice.
- Address: Nam. Miru 73, Ceska Kamenice, 407 21.
- In Jetrichovice.
- Address: Jetshichovice 393, CZ - 407 16.
Among the main routes, I know there are:
- To the rocky gates (Pravchitsky): along the ornate stones and paths, then along the rocky wall (I passed it too). Then the program "Falcon's Nest" - a visit near the gates of observation platforms on the tops of rocks.
- To the Dolskaya mill.
- to Schaunstein.
Where to stay
If you want to prefer camping to a hotel, then in the above-mentioned tourist centers you should ask about special parking lots, you cannot set up a tent camp outside equipped campsites: after all, it is a specially protected zone.
If you are more attracted to the east, then choose Krasna Lipa or Chrzybska.
Room prices start from 8-10 EUR for a campsite and from 45 EUR for a double room.
"Czech Switzerland" in winter
I was in the national park in winter, but their winter was rather slushy at that time, so there was no talk of any walk along the forest paths. Castle Falcon's Nest, again, summer. So I had to be content with waterfalls on the rivers and towns around the "Czech Switzerland".
If you want to see as much more of the above, then I advise you to come in the summer!
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