About the cities of the Algarve.
The southern Portuguese province of Algarve has long and firmly secured the status of a beach recreation area, but a tourist going on this vacation should pay attention to the fact that the Algarve stretches along the southern coast of the country for 170 km, and from which point of this segment you stop, maybe the subsequent perception of the world will radically depend. Without touching on specific hotels and other details, I will try to give in this article a generalized assessment of the main cities and towns involved in tourism. I hope this information will help you decide on a place of residence for the duration of your vacation. Before choosing a specific settlement, you should know that the Algarve has two fundamentally different parts - western (Barlavento) and eastern (Sotavento). Barlavento is more popular with tourists, and it is not so much a matter of tradition, but of the nature of the area. This half of the region has hilly terrain with steep and rocky shores and beautiful beaches; pine and eucalyptus copses are often found. The ocean water is cooler here than in the eastern part. In Sotavento, the coastal strip is flat, marshy in places, and is separated from the sea almost all the way by sand bars. Between them and the coast, the water stagnates, creating a muddy pool, and you can swim in fresh warm water only by crossing the spit. In some places, bridges are made for this, but more often you have to use the services of ferrymen.
As a result of this distribution of natural resources, an appropriate way of life has developed. In the western part, it is more active and urbanized, while the eastern half is occupied mainly by agricultural land with a leisurely, lulling atmosphere (paradise for retirees). Decide which rhythm is dearer to your soul, and you can proceed to the choice of a specific settlement. Their descriptions follow in the order of their location on the ground - from east to west.
Monte gordo like an oasis in the desert, it is the source of a colorful, rich life against the background of the sleepy surrounding area. Located on the outskirts, it is more connected with Spain than with the rest of the Algarve. A large number of hotels, apartments, bars and restaurants are compactly lined up along the coast. From almost anywhere, a couple of minutes walk to the endless smooth sandy beach. The city is a favorite holiday destination for the Dutch and, like Holland, is full of bicycles. The flat terrain, surrounded by pine forests, is conducive to stress-free cycling. From nearby Vila Real de S. Antonio you can take a boat cruise along the hilly banks of the Guadiana border river, or simply take a ferry ride to the Spanish side and experience the difference between the two cultures. The city is convenient for roads. It is better to come here by bus, because railway the station is located outside the city. There is not a single amusement park nearby.
Tavira spreads out at the mouth of the Gilao River on both its banks. Several bridges, coupled with the historical part of the city, form an interesting ensemble, and the river embankment with numerous restaurants is very popular among the population. There is a sufficient number of hotels and apartments for different tastes both within the city limits and in the immediate suburbs, but at the same time Tavira does not bear obvious signs of a tourist center in its appearance, remaining quite an authentic settlement. Shallow beaches are washed by warm water, but none of them has direct quick access - you need to cross to the sandy spits by ferry. Convenient transport links and orchards surrounding Tavira create a cozy atmosphere. Auto and railway stations are located near the center, there are several supermarkets. There is not a single amusement park nearby.
Faro- on everyone's lips because it is the administrative center of the Algarve province, but even more because there is an international airport here. From the point of view of tourism, only the historical center of the city is of interest. The hotels are few in number and unassuming, and are designed mainly for people who come for a couple of days, and those who care about the proximity of the airport. The beach is located on a sand spit about 10 km from the city, where people cross over a single-track bridge. During the summer months, a long convoy of cars lines up at this bridge, and parking spaces on the beach are limited. To the west of the airport lies a vast pine forest, very popular with cycling enthusiasts. The city center provides good shopping opportunities. The transport scheme is quite confusing, with widespread parking problems and traffic jams on all major roads during peak hours. Auto and railway train stations are located nearby directly in the city center.
Almancil- an ordinary town, not of the slightest interest, but famous for the fact that all the ways to the most civilized golf resorts pass through it: Quinta do Lago and Vale do Lobo... These places are Algarvian Beverly Hills, and that says it all. Luxurious villas, pine trees and endless golf courses at appropriate prices. It is here that the watershed between the eastern and western parts of the Algarve passes, both figuratively and literally: to the east of Quinta do Lago, the coast is separated from the sea by a ridge of sandy spits, stretching almost to the border with Spain. On the outskirts of Almancil there is a go-kart park.
Quarteira and Vilamoura- popular tourist centers closest to Faro airport. Despite the fact that physically these two cities form a single whole, smoothly flowing into one another, their essence is completely different. Roughly speaking, Quarteira is home to people serving Vilamoura.
Quarteira- an ordinary philistine city with close buildings. There are several inexpensive hotels and camping, but tourist apartments predominate, almost all along the coastline, which is in turn bordered by a continuous long beach. The city is quite bustling, and all the bustle is concentrated along the avenida - the main transport artery that runs along the coast. Access by transport is not very convenient here, there are chronic difficulties with parking, railways. there is no message. In general, the city has no other advantages besides the beach.
Vilamoura- an artificially created purely tourist object. The central part of the city almost entirely consists of large hotels and apartments, among which there are many 4 * and 5 *. The layout is done on a grand scale, each hotel has its own territory. There is also a casino - a venue for frequent show programs - but the main city life is in full swing around the marina (harbor for yachts and boats), on the shores of which are located most of the bars, restaurants and boutiques. Walking cruises, fishing trips and other types of marine entertainment start from the marina. Only a few hotels have direct access to the beach, so most tourists have to cover a decent distance on foot or by car. Actually, the beach makes a rather miserable impression, and is not one of the main advantages of the resort. Vilamoura is, first of all, a place for a sedate fashionable audience. Around the multi-storey central part for a dozen kilometers are located complexes of villas and golf courses immersed in greenery - an excellent choice for lovers of peace and quiet. The city and its surroundings are covered with an extensive network of beautiful roads, in which even a local resident can get lost. There are no traffic jams here, but access from the main roads is not very convenient; there are no problems with parking. Railway the line is far to the side, the bus service is also poor. The extensive green surroundings are ideal for light, refreshing jogging and cycling trips. There are no large supermarkets in the city; prices for all items are overpriced.
In the immediate vicinity of Quarteira and Vilamoura there is a popular water park “Aquashow”, in nearby Almancil there is a go-kart track.
Albufeira- the most promoted and very popular resort. This is the “golden mean” at the crossroads of paths and opinions. There are countless hotels and apartments at your service, both fit into the urban environment, and scattered within a radius of 10 km throughout the district (districts Olhos de Agua, Gale and Sao Rafael). Here everyone will find an option according to their wallet - from cheap residences and camping to 5 * hotels and private villas. Albufeira is known as the most popular city - it is here that lovers of bars and disco clubs come here in the evenings. The strip of beaches stretches for ten kilometers, interrupted by small rocks, and gradually changing its appearance - giving everyone the opportunity to choose according to their taste. However, the entire coastal area is urbanized, and if your hotel is far from the sea, then arriving at the beach by car and parking will not be an easy task. Access to Albufeira by car is easy and convenient, but during the high season there are often congestions at the entrances to the city and difficulties with parking in certain parts of the city. Bus routes connect the city to the surrounding area, as well as to other cities in southern Portugal. Railway the station is located 5 km inland, and usually people get there / from there by taxi. There are several supermarkets within the city and a large commercial center “AlgarveShopping” 5 km to the west along the EN125 highway. During the summer, bullfighting takes place in Albufeira, while Zoomarine Oceanographic Park and the Fiesa Sand Sculpture Exhibition are located within 10 km to the west. Most sea excursions start from the marina (harbor for yachts), located outside the western end of the city, which creates certain inconveniences in the absence of personal transport. The disadvantages of Albufeira can also be attributed to its non-compactness (completely chaotic arrangement of hotels, shops, restaurants, etc.) and the irrationality of the road network, forcing long movements. The population of the city in summer sometimes grows 10 times (!), And, of course, such a large population (in some places noisy) does not affect the rest in the best way.
Armacao de pera... Once a modest fishing village, the tourism industry has acquired all the attributes of a modern city in a short time: supermarkets, multi-storey buildings, banks, hotels, restaurants. There are several hotels and apartments within the city limits, but the more popular tourist area Senhora da Rocha west of the city. The principle of "peace and quiet next to civilization" is perfectly implemented here. The picturesque beaches of Sra.da Rocha fill the soul with an idealistic mood, and fans of "hum" can easily head to the center of Armacao de Pera. Easy access by car; traffic jams and parking difficulties are extremely rare. There are several bus routes that go by and the timetable is poor; railway there is no message. As a result, there is a certain "detachment" of the resort, which you do not feel at all if you have a car. There is a nice camping site on the outskirts of the city. There are numerous restaurants along the waterfront, among which there are many with delicious fresh fish. The entertainment industry is underdeveloped, so it is better to contact the hotel reception about this. 7 km inland there is a water park "Aqualand"; about the same distance, but to the east - the exhibition of sand sculptures "FIESA"; a little further - "Zoomarine".
Carvoeiro- a territory underdeveloped by Russian tourists, which does not at all humiliate its merits. The once small fishing village is still nothing great today, but the chic surrounding area is completely covered with villas buried in greenery, tourist apartments and golf complexes. There are no high-rise buildings lined up and crowded promenades, this is an area for connoisseurs of natural beauty. Small beaches are crowded here and there in fabulous cliffs, and in the morning you will be greeted by the clicking of seagulls and the chirping of grasshoppers. Evening life is in full swing in the center of the village, but nothing on the next street will disturb your sleep. A great place for a family holiday, located off the main roads. However, getting here is quite convenient and is best done by car. The bus schedule is far from ideal, railways. no line. On the outskirts of the nearby (5 km) Lagoa there are several large supermarkets and a water park “Slide & Splash”, and longing for civilization, you can ride in Portimao (15 km).
May the inhabitants of other places forgive me, for there is no city in the Algarve more beautiful than Portimao... Located at the mouth of the Arade River, it embodies the perfect combination of urbanization and nature. Large and modern, it impresses with its high-rise buildings, avenues and bridges, as well as its embankments, beaches, and varied relief. A city that leads an active life regardless of tourists, and therefore most hotels, apartments and entertainment establishments are concentrated in the coastal zone Praia da rocha with its grandiose beaches, and commercial centers, public institutions, exhibition and concert complexes, etc. located in the common part of the city. Nevertheless, this part (with its squares, fountains, numerous fish restaurants and a 2-kilometer promenade on the river embankment) is also popular with tourists. Getting to Portimao by train or bus is equally convenient - both stations are located within the city limits. The airfield at Alvor is capable of receiving light and medium class aircraft. Portimao is conveniently located for major roads, but traffic jams at the city's entrances and key junctions during rush hour. Free parking in the Praia da Rocha area can be difficult, but there are several multi-storey paid car parks. Spacious beaches (they host not only sunbathers, but also volleyball, football, badminton grounds), framed by intricate cliffs, stretch for 5 km, and numerous excursions along the grottoes, in the upper reaches of the Arade River, for fishing start from the marina's berths. etc. It is very interesting to explore the city and its surroundings by bike or go kayaking along the river.
In fact, today it is worth talking not only about Portimao itself, but also about the suburbs that are gradually growing together with it. Nestled on the east bank of the Arade village Ferragudo- one of the few who, having learned the taste of tourism, managed, nevertheless, to preserve the distinct appearance of a fishing village. The central part of it is very authentic, and the complexes of villas and apartments are ergonomically blended into the coastal surrounding area. Here you are everywhere accompanied by spaciousness and fresh sea breezes, and the view from almost any place invariably clings to the majestic views of the "big brother" on the other side of the river.
Alvor, although considered an independent administrative unit, has long lived a life closely associated with Portimao. Leaving the latter the path of development of urbanism, he himself is increasingly acquiring a purely tourist appearance with many bars, restaurants, hotels and apartments. The most attractive of them are located in the area between Alvor and Praia da Rocha and have direct access to the coast, but there are many excellent complexes in the interior (and it is not difficult to get to the beach by car). The Alvor River at its mouth forms a wide estuary, which has gained immense popularity among fans of wind and kite surfing, and boats for fishing and boat trips leave from the local harbor.
In the summer, an amusement park usually unfolds in the Praia da Rocha area, beach volleyball and football tournaments, a wine festival, evening shows, night disco clubs and casinos are held. 10 km east of Portimao is the Slide & Splash water park, while a 25 km inland walk will give you the heady mountain air of the Monchique ridge and a mesmerizing view from its highest point, Foia, over the entire Barlavento.
Lagos- the only place in the Algarve where a developed tourism industry is perfectly balanced with historical heritage and natural beauty. In the late 90s, Lagos even got into the top ten best resorts in the world. No, not fancy restaurants and multi-star hotels were the reason for this, but that inexplicable charm that everyone experiences when they first come to this city. Narrow streets and quiet gatherings of people in the central square, the canal embankment with yachts passing by and a spacious view of the bay, unique cliffs and cozy beaches between them - this is a place for those who like to live not loudly, but with taste. There are N number of inexpensive residences in the old city, but the bulk of hotels, tourist apartments, motels are located in residential areas. Lagos is quite popular with youth companies, many of which stay in the private sector and campgrounds. It is equally convenient to come here both by car and by train (this is the terminal station of the railway line) or by bus. There are no traffic jams here, but parking in the city center is quite problematic. There are several large supermarkets located on the outskirts of the city. In the summer, bullfights are held, but not very regularly, and Lagos has no equal in the number of organized entertainment: sea cruises, fishing, dolphin safaris, walking along the grottoes, parasailing, windsurfing, diving, etc. The surroundings of the city are simply gorgeous for cycling and walking; Halfway between Lagos and Portimao, there is a circuit where speed lovers can practice kart races and serious sports cars. About 10 km to the northwest is the ZooLagos zoo - small but pretty.
To the west of Lagos, semi-wild places begin, beckoning those who seek to escape from the hustle and bustle of the people to the greatness and omnipotence of nature. There are settlements here, of course, but you can move for many kilometers without bumping into fences and without meeting a single person. In these places, the villages are most popular with tourists. Praia da Luz, Burgao and Salema- all located directly on the shore with access to the beach, - but there are a considerable number of apartments and hotels (including boarding-room type), standing apart. Most of them are on the stretch between Praia da Luz and Burgao. Here and only here you will feel the deepest unity with nature, and silent stones will tell you exciting stories from the life of our planet. Fresh sea breezes, endless ocean and spectacular sunsets are the three whales of the area. You can come here by bus from Lagos ... provided that you bring everything you need with you - otherwise it is impossible to live here without a car. Entertainment in this area is the ZooLagos zoo near the village of Barao de S. Joao; great places for diving; on the Praia da Luz beach - all kinds of water activities (skiing, "bananas", scooters ...). Fans of exploring new trails on foot and by bike will not find the best places in the entire Algarve, and only here you will find almost deserted wild beaches.
Sagres... If you are fond of surfing, then this is your place! Surfers are practically the only type of tourists inhabiting these places. Sagres itself does not have anything remarkable, it has several hotels and apartments, but most of those who come here "head off" settle in inexpensive residences, private sector, camping. The most suitable beach for swimming, Praia do Martinhal, located next to the village, is popular mainly with windsurfers. There is a small fishing port in the same bay. The beaches of the west coast, with their majestic cliffs and almost endless winds, are all far away and can only be reached by private transport. For non-surfers, only the remains of a medieval fort on the outskirts of the village and the “End of the World” (Cape St. Vincent), 6 km to the west, are of interest. However, for wildlife enthusiasts, the sites can be quite attractive, including in terms of cycling. The bus route connects Sagres with Lagos, but does not have a very busy schedule.
The described places are among the most popular among tourists, but they do not limit the possibilities of accommodation. The Algarve is a single organism with a developed infrastructure, and if your views on recreation are not limited to a lazy set of "hotel-beach-restaurant", then if you have a car, a specific "landing point" can be selected with a spread of up to 10-15 km from basic settlements - a fundamental you won't feel the difference.
Igor Pitovskiy
Lagos and Albufeira
Why did you combine two cities in one story? - it seemed to me that they are somewhat similar, but at the same time different. They are similar with their narrow cobbled slippery cobblestone streets, Moorish-style architecture and endless white houses with patterned chimneys. And it's equally hot everywhere.
Lagos
Lagos is the largest resort in the Algarve.
You can get to Lagos quickly on the A22 expressway, you can get a little slower on the N125 /
On the horizon are Monchique mountains, but more on that in another article.
We did not have any specific purpose of visiting the city of Lagos, we decided to just take a walk. And so that there was at least some goal, they decided to find a church named after someone there, I don't remember who.
An attempt to find parking in the city center was unsuccessful and we left the car in a large free parking lot near the ruins of an old fortress.
Almost nothing remained of the fortress, so it was not of particular interest.
The town of Lagos itself made a good impression on me. Despite the heat, if you walk along the shady side of the street, the walk will not end with heatstroke.
There is no vegetation on the streets at all, perhaps it is in the yards.
Many apartments offer their services.
There is a large pedestrian street in Lagos that runs from the old fortress to the city center, but is crossed by streets with cars - be careful. The street is paved with a very slippery stone, here, too, care is required.
A house whose walls are completely tiled.
Along the pedestrian street, we got to a large square, in different directions from which there were streets with a bunch of cafes, shops and souvenir shops.
In the central square there is a monument with a Maltese cross and the inscription Lagos, xxxxx xxxxxx (we never learned to read Portuguese).
Most of the streets are also pedestrianized.
The rooster, the symbol of Portugal, can be found everywhere.
Little difficulties arose with the search for a church. I concluded that the majority of the Portuguese are atheists and do not go to church at all and do not even know where it is. We asked several locals where someone's church was located, everyone was pointing in different directions, probably everyone had their own, one favorite. Even the address we knew didn't help. Finally, one old woman explained to us more or less clearly, and we went along the given route.
It was time for a siesta, but most of the restaurants and shops continued to work.
We found her !! But like all previous and subsequent churches, it was closed. Yes, it is difficult to be a believer in the Algarve. 
The church housed a local history museum, which, of course, was also closed.
Square and embankment near the temple.
There is a monument to Enrique the navigator on the square. This Enrique character is completely mysterious to me. From the lessons of history, I know a sufficient number of Portuguese navigators and travelers: Vasco de Gama, Fernand Magellan, Bartolomeo Dias, Eshkobar Peru and even Tristana da Cunho. But I did not know anything about Enrique the Navigator, who, according to the Alargviians, was practically the only one who explored all the seas and oceans and drew the most accurate map of the world. Although, judging by the dates on the monument, Enrique's friend lived for about 500 years, and during this time, you can definitely do a lot.
We walked around the church - it was definitely closed.
There is a small wine and port shop not far from the church. I liked the selection and the prices did not seem very high, the sellers tried to help in the selection. We bought several bottles of port. As it turned out - not bad.
After wandering a little, we went out into a long pedestrian street and went to the car. I definitely liked the town and deserves one full day. Especially if it is not very hot. Arriving in Lagos, be sure to visit Dona Ana Beach and Cape da Piedade.
But I'll tell you a little about the cape here.
Cape da Piedade, Algarve.
If you drive through Lagos and continue along the coast, you will come across a small lighthouse. There is a fairly large car park near the lighthouse. Leave your car in the parking lot and continue on to Cape da Piedade.
There are many observation platforms on the cape with beautiful views.
Unfortunately, the photographs do not convey the scale of what they saw.
Many boats with tourists float between the large rocks.
A long staircase leads down to the very bottom. As I understand it, you can buy a boat tour there.
A few more photos, there is nothing to tell, you need to see it.
We return back to the car. There is a toilet in the parking lot, which is striking in its cleanliness and a cafe where we bought ice cream and ate it with pleasure. I'm not a big fan of ice cream, but I thought OLA Portuguese ice cream (hello) was delicious.
Albufeira
According to the guide, Albufeira is an old fishing village, turned into a beach holiday center for tourists and built up with many hotels.
The slopes to the beaches in Albufeira are easier than Lagos, and the beaches themselves stretch along the entire coast, moving from one to the other.
We were unable to find a free parking spot near the city center and left the car in a small one-way street squeezed between two local cars.
The goal was to eat and take a walk.
The central part of the city is not at all large and you can walk around it at a leisurely pace in less than an hour.
The rest of the city is of little interest.
The central square of the city of Albufeira, as well as in Lagos, there are small streets from it in different directions, where there is a restaurant or cafe in almost every house.
Despite the large selection of places to eat, we didn’t like anything, everything was somehow completely for tourists.
We turned a little to the side from the main street and found a more or less interesting institution.
The owner of the establishment was in the photo, he was having dinner at the next table and the cook who fed us. We were pleased with the dinner.
All the same, the village is a village and there is nothing special to see or we did not find what.
We walked a little more and went to the car. Albufeira did not leave a big trace in my soul. Lagos is much bigger, more interesting and prettier.
Since we are talking about coastal cities, we will briefly dwell on one more city - Portimao, (Portimao).
Portimao
Portimao is a large city located at the mouth of the Arade River in the center of the Algarve.
There is such a wonderful cable-stayed bridge over the Arade River.
Portimao is different from the rest of the Algarve cities. The city looks modern and fashionable. There are several large shopping centers in the city. There is McDonald's, which is important, believe me, if you have children (I know it's harmful). V
The tunnel leads to the coast.
Plage de Roca is a large and beautiful beach in Portimão, pointers to it can be found before reaching the city.
The streets in Portimao are wide and mostly straight.
Modern houses do not evoke any desire to walk around the city.
Closer to the center, you can find the ubiquitous small Moorish-style houses, but they are lost against the backdrop of modern buildings.
At the mouth of the Arade River, there is an anchorage for boats and yachts, on the other side of the river is Ferragudo. You can cross the bridge.
Portimao made a positive impression on us, but I would not want to rest there. It is already a city in all its senses.
I planned to talk about other cities on the Algarve coast, but I realized that there was no point in this: small towns and villages of the Algarve coast are very similar to each other and there is nothing to tell about them.
With this post, I fill in the gap on Portugal, which I traveled to last August. I will try to help those who have not yet chosen a summer vacation destination and will tell you in detail about a vacation on the Portuguese coast Algarve in its resort capital - the city of Lagos.
Not everyone likes to wander along the coast in a rented car like a lightning man, even in the most beautiful places. The majority have neither the opportunity nor the desire for such a format of travel.
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For such tourists, the Portuguese Algarve has two of the most famous cities - two tourist capitals of local importance, Lagos and Albufeira. We visited both cities, and if I were going on vacation with my mother-in-law, wife, three young children, I chose the classic format of recreation, I would choose the city of Lagos, which I am going to talk about.
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Lagos is an ancient port city with more than 2000 years of history. How it looked before, we no longer know, in 1755 Portugal was shaken by an earthquake and tsunami, which destroyed most of the historical beauty on the coast.
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When choosing accommodation, I would prefer the old town. In his favor - approximately the same distance from city beaches, a beautiful center, enhanced by several attractions and evening life, of course.
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The right morning begins with the city market, you hardly have to buy something, but it is definitely worth looking at what was still floating in the ocean today. At least in order to know what to order for lunch in local restaurants.
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The market is almost the only place where you can feel the city, except for the local bus station, where backpackers arrive. The market is located right on the embankment, here are mostly locals who go about their grocery and household chores. No pathos and ostentatious beautiful stalls, the most interesting thing here is fish stalls and local merchants.
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While the heat has not driven to the luxurious ocean beaches, you can have time to see what has survived after the destructive work of Mother Nature. We must pay tribute to restorers and builders of all generations, thanks to them, today's Lagos is an attraction in itself, a very nice old town.
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Right behind the market is temple of San Sebastian, it is good because the best view of the city opens from its observation deck, I will not show the pictures, we were too lazy to climb up and left a reason for the next visit.
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For a classic tourist - classic sights without any irony, I myself like to walk around old churches or look at the city from above. Church of Santa Maria, almost on the embankment, a fountain and an almost deserted square, no wonder - August, 70 percent on the beach, the rest in local bars.
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Near the church on the embankment there is a fort and the remains of a city fortress. We go rather for show, I don't want to go inside, we have already seen a couple of such miracles. There are good views of the coast from the fort, but Lagoshe full of free viewpoints, from which the views are no worse than in the National Geographic plots and completely free, which is important - lunch is ahead.
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Where are the restaurants in Lagos? On the streets adjacent to the embankment of the Bensafin River, a little on the narrow streets adjacent to the center and a lot on the main tourist street on April 25
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It is more expensive here, but looking for places where locals dine in Lagos is not worth it, this is not Lisbon. Almost all places here are tourist, prices too. So accept the fact that you will part with 25-30 euros for a dinner for two and have fun. In low season it will be much cheaper.
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There are a lot of places where you can dine in Lagos, mostly all of them are tourist. Therefore, I will not recommend anything specific.
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Is that at the end streets of April 25 I can recommend the Bon Vivant cafe - red in the photo, a good selection of drinks, an unusual interior and, most importantly, an open rooftop area, from there a good view of the street
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There are boring tourist restaurants that look like canteens. Right in the alley, so that the little head does not bake. On the street solid +34 Celsius. Most likely designed for organized groups of retirees from England.
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Another attraction church of St. Anthony located in the old center of Lagos, bristling with ancient spiers-towers and perfectly copes with its decorative role for most tourists, adding coziness to narrow winding streets.
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The main attractions of Lagos are the ocean, beautiful cliffs and beaches. Let's go to Ponta piedada- the cape on which there is a lighthouse and the so-called "first rocks" of the Algarve. In our case, we went, but you can walk in about half an hour - there is a place on the outskirts of Lagos.
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Here you can spend half a day swimming around the rocks in a boat or sitting upstairs enjoying the view. Near the lighthouse there is free parking for cars, we leave the car, go down the wooden stairs and take an hour's walk along the grottoes and picturesque rocks. The price is 25 euros for two.
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Boating is the main attraction for tourists, well organized and streamlined.
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The second most beautiful place in Lagos - Dona Ana beach, in July-August there are quite a lot of people. There are a couple of hotels nearby and unfinished, unfinished ones, I already wrote about this above. The beauty of the beach and the views from the hotel cover minor imperfections.
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It is better to sunbathe and swim on the Dona Ana beach before lunchtime, and take photographs in the late afternoon. And even then, the sun seems to go along the sea, by 17.00 the rocks are already half in the shade.
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There are several beaches in the city of Lagos, so the city is good. On the opposite side of the beach Dona ana there is a long sandy city beach Meia Praia. You can get there by car or on foot - just cross the bridge from the embankment.
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This long sandy beach is more suitable for lovers of a classic beach holiday, there are no waves, a gentle entrance to the water and warm water. And this is one of the warmest beaches on the Algarve coast for which it is loved by couples with children or simply not too active tourists.
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Other beaches near Lagos. There are a lot of them, but if you choose the most beautiful, then this is. I wrote about it in detail here. Or choose the appropriate option from list of the best beaches in the Algarve... But for this you need a car, and this is a completely different format of recreation.
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Surroundings or where you can go for the whole day.
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Firstly, this is the neighboring town of Lagoa, we just lived in its vicinity. There is more local flavor and a couple of good local wine shops.
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One of them can be found in the very center, the choice and prices are more pleasant than in the tourist Lagos (Lagos).
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In addition to the liquor store, walk along narrow and completely deserted streets Lagoa(Lagoa), it is crowded here only in the morning on weekdays, when people go to work or to the market. For those who are tired of the crowd and bustle - a must.
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The local market is also worth a visit, but in the morning, of course.
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Lagoa has a lot more real Portugal than Lagos. The city is located about seven kilometers from the ocean, which the locals for some reason call the sea. Nearest beach Carvoeiro not bad, but interesting for those tourists who have not read my posts about Portugal and therefore chose it as a place to stay. The place is rather dull, the beach is ordinary by the standards of Portugal, and it is also very small.
38.
Near Lagoshem, not far from Lagoa there is a town called Silves without which a walk around the outskirts of Lagos will be incomplete. There is a cathedral and an old Arab fortress in Silves.
39.
40.
The cathedral is like a cathedral, and the fortress will be of interest only to those who are interested in the Arab period of the history of Portugal or to those who travel to Europe for the first time. If you make up your mind and allow you to have time, then you can spend a couple of hours. For us, a little consolation was the figs, which grew abundantly in the courtyard of the fortress. You can easily tear it up and eat it with complete impunity and free of charge. You won't want to dine after it - a guarantee.
41.
Faro and Albufeira behind, going to Lagos
We drove by some clay towns, and now, finally, he - Lagos. Looks great. The bus station is right next to the marina. The evening sun, and in its rays magic yachts and ships shimmer with special shades of white. Wonderful promenade. But I don't live here. They advised me to take a taxi at the hostel, like, go for half an hour. At the beginning I refused, and then I decided that I could afford 4 euros. But here's another quest - find a taxi. They were not at the station, so I went to the city center. So what? Flip flops are comfortable shoes.
Finally, a taxi was found. I boldly explained myself in melodious Portuguese where I needed to, and we drove off. Straight along this wonderful promenade, past sunlit ancient cathedrals, monuments and coniferous parks. We arrived surprisingly quickly. Not all taxi drivers are scammers. When I sat down, they told me 5. When we arrived, it turned out to be 4.15. They gave me the change to a penny, although I did not expect too much and had already mentally said goodbye to 5 euros.
They were waiting for me in the hostel, there is even a swimming pool. But why do I need a pool if there is a sea!
I immediately knew everything I needed. But I couldn't decide whether to go to Cape San Vincent tomorrow or the day after tomorrow. It was all about the weather, and the promise of rains. In the rain it is better on the promontory than on the beach. In general, I decided not to bother myself, but to see how it goes.
And it went like this - I went to get acquainted with the city center.
The main lesson for today is not to ask for directions from people who look local but speak English. At the first fork, the map could not tell me exactly where I was at all, and I asked for directions from the man with the dog. With the dog !!! So local.
But no, he showed me the way in English and then a new quest began. The streets I walked along were pleasant, wide and crisp white, with luxurious villas and expensive condos on either side. But bad luck - they were not on the map.
From the side in the distance, I saw the sea, and it seemed to me that the path leads somewhere where I need it. But when the road went up sharply to new luxurious villas and snow-white condominiums, I saw two teenagers. Let me ask you, there are no other people on the streets. The answer was, in principle, expected. No, this street will never lead you to the center. It's clear. I thought so. Don't trust people with dogs who speak English.
I didn’t lose anything, of course, but in the end I came to the center, albeit not after as long as I had planned.
What is a center? It is a collection of streets, churches, monuments, restaurants and souvenir shops surrounded by a fortress wall.
I was terribly thirsty, and I saw these magic letters - batido de banana. Yes, and they were sold by a cute old woman. She then explained to me that 4 euros is very cheap. Hmmm. Okay, I'll discount the huge glass and the city center. But it's never cheap. But it is very tasty.
In the meantime, the sun sets even lower, and now the yachts are acquiring new shades. A very pleasant place. And there are few people. As usual, everyone is in the shops of the city center. I don’t understand this topic, they sell anything from plastic bullshit to gold and the shops are full. Is it really necessary to bring gold from vacation ???
In general, it is not given to me to understand, so I wandered a little along the side streets on the principle “away from the crowd”, admired the beautiful snow-white houses and left the fortress wall. There is a good restaurant here. Rather, it seemed to me that he should be good, and I was not mistaken.
Inexpensive, they do not bring cuberto, there is a Wi-Fi, quite crowded (and, therefore, good). I'll sit here for a while, taste the octopus salad and meat !!! The ribs were not there, oh you sadness. But it turned out to be just a pig. Perhaps, I have not devoured meat for a long time, so go ahead. I learned a new word in Portuguese - fork (garfo). Nothing to do with Spanish tenedor. I chatted with a friend who sells boat trips in a mixture of all languages. But I still need to practice the local dialect. I train, every day it gets better. If I think in simple phrases, then I easily find the right words in my brain and build wonderful phrases. But, of course, I will not support the conversation about Navalny on Portuguese.
The road home was easier than the road from home. I am already orienting myself and avoiding questions addressed to obscure people with dogs. But I was also caught on the street by motorists asking how to get there. I already knew the answer, so I helped with joy!
The day is over, there are only Germans in the hostel. My neighbor is a very affable young lady. I told her everything I remember from my German lessons at school. Well, there, about Lenin. And of course, everything I knew about Frankfurt. And I knew the most basic thing about him - the airport.
We need to plan a little further body movements, otherwise I don’t know what I’ll do tomorrow. Detailed Excel spreadsheets with schedules and detailed plans are a thing of the past. Now pure impromptu.
However, I figured out a couple of options for "between Lisbon and Porto." It turned out that I have 2 extra days, which I have scored, I don’t remember what for. That's great - more flexibility, more options, more options. And what is remarkable, I bought Madeira on pseudo-random dates. It seemed to me that on the selected days, plus or minus will be correct. And I was not mistaken, it would be possible to shift the schedule here or there for a day, but overall the time was perfect. Well, for the second time in Portugal, everything works out as it should. Compensation for spring hepatitis).
The place is very peaceful here. No noise, no parties. Home guest. In a family way. Time to sleep. Tomorrow I will have new impressions, either the beach or the cape. We will see.
Despite the very early lights out, it was not possible to get up early. And I still lamented, behold, breakfast is only from 9, and who eats breakfast so late. It is necessary that from 7 in the morning. And then I barely got up at 9.
Breakfast amazed me again. Included in the bed for 10 euros is sur. Cakes, sausages, hams, cheeses - some kind of holiday. I have to borrow some breakfast for lunch tomorrow.)
So. Resolved. As long as there is sun, I will go to the beach. Sagres and the cape will be tomorrow!
The walk to the beach turned out to be a quest again, something is not going well, my friendship with the Portuguese cards. But when the sea is visible ahead, it is easier to go.
Got it.
And just with my arrival the sun went away. However, this little problem did not prevent me from spending 2 hours on this marvelous beach surrounded by majestic cliffs. A certain route for mini-trekking along all the beaches is drawn on the map. That's where I'll go, just lie down a little. There are few people, the wind is quite warm, the sun is sometimes shown. Pure pleasure. The sound of the sea soothed and caressed my ears covered with sand that I did not dare to turn on the player. Only the sounds of nature today!
So, I'll go trekking. It’s completely incomprehensible from the map how it should look. There is a path up along the coast along the cliff, and people even walk along it, but it is difficult to understand this or is it the territory of luxury condos. I got lost again, and when in my gut I felt that I was walking along the road separating me from what I wanted, I nevertheless returned to the beach and found this inconspicuous entrance to the trail behind the cafe.
What made me happy is that the entire territory along the sea is private and fenced off, but the path and a couple of meters from the edge are common. There is a path that anyone can walk on. Still, they follow the water protection rules. And this is great, because I would be offended if I could not see what I saw because of the legal status of the land.
So that's it. In the beginning, I saw the first beach from above, and then something unimaginable for me began. This one is exactly the same landscapes that I dreamed of seeing. Yes, there is no sun, but the wind and waves, it seems to me, even more suited this picture. It was something. Each meter could be stopped and stuck in. Do not transfer. It was fantastic for my simple taste. Harsh rocks, waves breaking on the shore, endless expanses, heavy sky, flying birds, incredibly bright bushes, many paths, strong wind. Element! I was delighted.
At one point, I had to go down an almost sheer cliff. I was in flip flops, I'm afraid of heights, and there were no railings. I convulsively grabbed the bushes and tried to control my breathing and take every step with increased caution. I understood the main thing, flip-flops are not for trekking. But I do not regret that those 5 minutes of horror were in my life. After that, the species became more and more unreal.
A true journey is only possible alone. They say it is true. I walked and enjoyed not only the wonders of nature, but also loneliness. No need to keep up idle chatter or just nod dejectedly out of politeness. You can just be alone in the entire universe. Let it be for a moment, but this is a very pleasant moment.
Looking ahead, I would highly recommend this walk. It seems to me that in any weather it should be super beautiful. Here on my map it is marked with a yellow line. Wear your sandals!
So in this part of the trekking, which before the ponta de piedrade there was almost no one. Rare couples, rare singles. You seem to be alone in a parallel world, there is no civilization at all. Even condominiums are somehow imperceptibly embedded in the landscape.
Below there are small beaches from time to time, but when I saw people in wetsuits getting up from one of them, I got sick. One was stuck and could neither forward nor backward. Poor fellow, as I understand him. It was bad for me to look at it. And I remember that terrible feeling, like on the way with Machu Picchu, when you can not take a step forward or back. After a nervous 30 km a day on the rails without stopping over the final abyss, I lost my courage. I took one foot forward and froze. Further, I simply did not see for myself an option to raise the second and transfer it to the first, or remove the first back to the second. In words it seems simple. But in reality ... The calves were shaking, drops of sweat appeared on the forehead, it was dark, scary and it seemed that there was nowhere to wait for help. But we are made in such a way that often, after moments of horror, everything remains in the past. So here, the guy rallied and overcame that critical area for him.
I watched this with anxiety. And I realized that, of course, I won't go there. Even if she was wearing sandals. And, nevertheless, further the path was no less picturesque. I wanted to fly like seagulls screaming nearby, jump, sing, and at least just spread my arms to the sides, exposing my face to the headwind.
A chic place to walk. Simply fantastic!
Finally I reached the lighthouse. My verdict, the "before the lighthouse" part is much cooler than the "after the lighthouse" part. There is a tourist bus stop here, which means that unity with nature will not work here. But you will get unity with tourists, of whom there are a lot.
I got a wonderful route, yesterday I did not think to follow it, I wanted to limit myself to this viewpoint at the lighthouse. But now I see that the scenery along the way from the distant beach to the lighthouse, combined with the desolation of the place and the harmony with the natural elements, is a much more impressive experience.
I continue on my way. This is somehow not so. The landscapes spoil the ugly buildings of the hotels, however, the rock formations sticking out of the water like irrepressible erect phalluses also excited my eye. Here are boat tours of the grottoes, well, I think I can do it. I will not defile a day of fantastic trekking with vulgar tourist attractions.
Someone has not reached the final point
The weather begins to deteriorate, although even in the absence of the sun, some parts of the water look transparent turquoise, or as it is fashionable to say, turquoise.
By the way, I recently did a hack, in which the beaches were praised, they say, marked with a blue flag. I couldn't understand what the hell this blue flag was. I know red is either communism or you can't swim. And here is blue. It turned out that my beaches here are also marked with it. So this is apparently cool.
I like Portugal. Here you can drink tap water. Fill the bottle and go. To balance with expensive cigarettes, you see. And here you can also go without a bra. This is even more than pleasant. I love the summer dress code.
The weather continues to deteriorate, I begin to feel a slight fatigue in my legs. In the first part of the trekking, there was a mental reboot. I was just overwhelmed with emotions and delight, but the second went smoother. Well, how else. Where people and infrastructure are, there is less space for a spiritual flight.
I got to the beach of Santa Ana, and then the rain changed tactics. Instead of light refreshing drops, a downpour began. Not strong, but the bag got wet. Well, everything turned out fine as always. I enjoyed trekking at a great time for him. Neither cold nor hot. Optimal.
And as it all ended, it began to rain. I didn’t manage to get to the very last beach, but judging by the perspective opening before my eyes, I would not see anything very new there.
We must wait out the rain. I bought a chocolate bar, sat down under the shop canopy and waited. The elderly cashier asked about my life, if I was sad. No, I say, after the walk I am sitting, thinking, resting, waiting for the rain to end.
He was pleased with my answer and after 5 minutes he closed the store and offered to take me where I need to. Where should I go? I'll go to yesterday's tavern to drink tea and watch the rain. Thank you, senior.
Half the same faces in the pub. Seagulls, sandwich. 2.3 euros. Quite to myself. Nearby are young Russian guys. But what topics are being discussed. Religion, politics, human values. And very young. And without a mat. I was pleasantly amazed, but did not begin to find out where they came from, so as not to inadvertently strike up a conversation for a couple of three hours.
The rain has died down, I have to go to my place.
Sagres will be tomorrow. The exercise “walk” I have mastered during meditation helps me. So I walk along the luxurious condos and I don't see anything under my nose. And then, nevertheless, attention is focused, and now, right in front of me, I notice a snail heading swiftly towards a tree on which something very similar to a persimmon is ripening.
Of course, according to the famous law of the sandwich, as soon as I got home half-wet, the sun immediately came out). But that's okay. I am very pleased with today's walk. It was incredibly beautiful.
Before going to bed, I went up to the hostel's terrace and saw an unusual sunset. A thin strip of sky illuminated by the setting sun between the dark earth below and the stormy sky above. Very nice. This strip of light seems to creep through the dark picture. And the evening ocean itself appeared to me in such a light purple glow. Every moment of life is unique. They say the truth.
👁 Do we book the hotel as always on the booking? In the world, not only Booking exists (🙈 for a horse percentage from hotels - we pay!) I have been practicing Rumguru for a long time, it is really more profitable than Booking.
👁 Do you know? 🐒 This is the evolution of city excursions. VIP-guide - a citizen, will show the most unusual places and tell urban legends, tried it, it's fire 🚀! Prices from 600 r. - will definitely please 🤑
👁 The best search engine on the Runet - Yandex ❤ started selling air tickets! 🤷
Continuation of the journey. Beginning - http://www.turpravda.ua/pt/algarve/blog-153847.html
Relax on the Algarve coast and not visit the most legendary end of the earth - the fortress Sagres (Sagres), we could not. Far out into the ocean and blown by the winds, the cape truly embodies the end of the world. And the steep sixty-meter cliffs, dropping into the Atlantic Ocean, make an indelible impression.
Lighthouse
Sagres. The western side of the cape.
There is a legend among the local population that in the 15th century, Heinrich the Navigator, who organized many sea expeditions, at the expense of the Order of Christ founded a navigation school in Sagres, in which Magellan, Vasco da Gama and Diaz were gaining experience. From here began the search for the ideal sea route to India. Several expeditions were sent from Sagres to the southern coast of Africa, supplying Portugal with gold and black slaves.
An earthquake in 1755 severely destroyed the fortress. And today little remains of the once majestic city. The old lighthouse and the fortress walls - part of the 17th century fort - attract attention. with terraces. As well as the remains of a tiny 14th century chapel.
From the school itself, only a stone platform with the remains of a 43-meter "wind rose" remained.
Sagres. Remains of a chapel from the 14th century
Sagres was chosen by surfers - because of the best waves in the country, fans of sport fishing - because the coolest places are nearby, and lovers of peace and quiet - because there are few tourists here, as the place is blown by all the winds.
Sagres.
Sagres. The western side of the cape.
In the distance you can see Cape San Vicente (Cabo de Sao Vicente) - the most southwestern point of mainland Europe. The cape has always served as a reference point for sailors. Now at its top is a lighthouse with a range of 95 kilometers. Of all the existing lighthouses in Europe, this one is the most powerful.
Sagres. Cape San Vincente
The most famous resort towns of the southern coast of Portugal are Lagos, Albufeira and Portimão. In any case, these names are most often I met on travel forums, especially Russian ones, when I was planning a trip. And since they are the most popular and the most touristy.
Lagos- an ancient sea city with more than two thousand years of history dating back to the Carthaginians. The history of Lagos is inseparable from the history of the province, the city experienced the same events as the rest of the coastal cities - for two and a half thousand years of its existence, Lagos was home to the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans and Moors .
Today Lagos - a picturesque oceanfront town nestled around a beautiful harbor and famous for its pristine beaches, restaurants and hotels ... V along the coastline stretches a wide promenade with spreading palm trees, souvenir stalls and stalls, along which tourists thirsty for resort romance stroll leisurely. And on the opposite side, along the canal, yachts and boats are lined up, offering tourists a fascinating sea entertainment: exploring the bizarre grottoes and caves created in the coastal rocks by sea waves for many centuries.
All this attracts travelers and makes Lagos one of the most demanded resorts.
We stopped in Lagos after Sagres, expecting to see the Church of St. Antonio, built in 1707 in the Baroque style. Behind the simple external facade of the church and asymmetrical bell towers, there is an interior richly decorated with gold, it is also called the Golden Church. The coat of arms of Portugal is depicted on the ceiling of the church, the lower part of the walls is decorated with blue and white azulejos, other parts of the walls are decorated with carved gilded and painted wood.
Lagos. Church of St. Antonio
(this photo is from the site http://www.lookportugal.com)
Unfortunately, the church was closed for restoration. And we had no choice but to walk the streets of the city and go to one of the beaches for which Lagos is famous. Many interestingly shaped rocks, grottoes and small coves, most of which can only be reached from the water, attract tourists from all over the world.
Lagos.
On the embankment are the remains of the wall that surrounded the city in ancient times, and the Fortaleza Ponta da Bandeira (Fortaleza Ponta da Bandeira) of the 17th century, built to protect the harbor.
Lagos. Remains of the wall that surrounded the city in antiquity
At the end of the 17th century, the coast of the Algarve was very often attacked by pirates. Lagos, which was once the capital of the Algarve, also suffered from them, as it was a port city. And then the governor of the Algarve, Count Sarzedos, decided to build a fort next to the port.
The fortress was built from 1679 to 1690, at a time when Portugal was fighting a war for its independence from Spain. The only way to get into the fortress was through a drawbridge over a deep moat dug out in front of the entrance. The fort is built in the shape of a square, with watchtowers located at the corners of the fort. Inside the fort there is a chapel of St. Barbara, the walls of which are decorated with azulesos tiles from the late 18th century.
Lagos. Fort Ponta da Bandeira
Lagos. Fort Ponta da Bandeira
Today, the traditional Lagos festival is held on the territory of the fort - the festival of midnight swimming: every year on August 29, people gather to swim at midnight, taste local cuisine and listen to live music.
In Lagos, there are many schools where you can learn to surf, operate kayaks, canoes and some other floating facilities.
Lagos.
Lagos.
Albufeira
A pleasant fishing town with snow-white houses on the ocean coast, over time, it became the tourist capital of the Algarve. The Romans also chose this place and erected a castle here, which later the Arabs gave the name Al-Bukhar - "Castle on the Sea". During the period of Arab rule, active trade with North Africa developed here. In the XIII Art. the castle was captured by the knights of the Order of Santiago, and the subsequent loss of trade relations led to the decline of the city.
Most often people come to Albufeira for the beautiful beaches separated by high cliffs that stretch for many kilometers. One of the most famous beaches of the city is Penecu, or, as it is also called, Tunnel Beach (Praia do Tunel). It is located in the old part of the city, and to get there, you have to go through a tunnel made right in the rocks.
Albufeira Tunnel beach
Albufeira Tunnel beach
Albufeira has many entertainment centers and nightclubs, so life is in full swing around the clock. There are a large number of boutiques and shops where you can buy almost everything - from clothes of world brands to small souvenirs made by local craftsmen.
Portimão(Portimao) is one of the largest cities in the Algarve, and I feel it is the largest. The huge multi-storey boxes of hotels (from inexpensive to luxury) that we saw from the bus window when we traveled to Sagres did not contribute to our sympathy for this resort. But it so happened that we had to live in this city for 2 incomplete days.
The history of Portimão, like all coastal towns, begins with the history of a small port where the Phoenicians, Greeks and Carthaginians once traded. Portimão is located at the mouth of the Arada River, which became a natural harbor for ships and was known in ancient times as a haven for corsairs and pirates. The river provided access to the sea and the ancient capital of the Algarve - Silves, located up the river. Local goods were exported from the port of Portimão - figs, olive, wine, fish. Slaves and sugar were imported, mainly from the African colonies and Brazil.
In the XVII - XVIII centuries. the development of the city slowed down significantly due to the weakening of trade and the devastating earthquake in 1755. Then the main temple and 15 small chapels were destroyed. Giant waves caused significant damage to the city walls and Fort Santa Catarina. At the same time, the Marquis of Pombal intended to turn Portimão into a bishopric, and raised the port to the rank of a city, but Queen Maria I vetoed his decision, and Portimão acquired the status of a city only in 1924.
Among the majority of tourists, Portimão is famous for its huge Praia da Rocha beach, which stretches for several kilometers. Comfortable wooden paths completely encircle the beach, going down to the water, there are changing cabins, showers and cafes. Like most resorts in the Algarve, Portimão is located on a rock mass, which offers a picturesque view of the ocean, the resort itself and its surroundings.
When we went down to the Praia da Rocha beach, having arrived in Portimão after lunch, we froze with amazement, shock and horror, and my hand instinctively reached for the camera - we have never seen such a number of vacationers! :))
Portimão. Praia da Rocha beach
Portimão. Praia da Rocha beach
We hardly found a small free beach valve for our belongings not far from the water. True, the ocean that stormy that day with one of its longest wave drove us from there. :))) Hearing a number of Russian-speaking vacationers, we involuntarily got into conversation with them - they were residents of Moldova who came to visit their children and grandchildren who live and work here in Portimão. It turned out that in Portugal, there are many not only our compatriots, but also many Moldovan residents who work on migrant workers.
The rest of the time we sunbathed and swam on a nearby beach, located behind one of the rocky outcrops. This beach was small, there were no wooden paths, changing cabins and showers, but there were few people, and several bizarre rocks with grottoes inside grew out of the water - where you could look at the sun through a crevice and take some pretty photos.
Portimão. Beach to the left of Praia da Rocha
Portimão.
Portimão.
As in any huge resort town, life in Portimão does not stop at sunset; it noisily flows from the beach to bars, pubs, open-air stages and discos. From May to October, Portimão hosts numerous concerts and festivals with local and international stars. The sardine festival is very popular, which is held at the end of summer and lasts a whole week. Grilled sardines are prepared everywhere, accompanied by live music and craft fairs.
And we had Lisbon, Sintra, Evora ahead ... And the sunset in Cabo da Roca - we became one of the last inhabitants of the continent to see the sun that day. :))
Cape of Cabo da Roca. Sunset Aug 22, 2014
