My first trip to "Czech Switzerland" ( České Švýcarsko) was of a random nature: while preparing for a Christmas tour of European cities (the main of which was Prague), I was looking for what to see on the territory different countries and how best to plan your route. And then I came across the Pravchitsky gate. "What is it, where is it, how is it?"
And on the way from Dresden to Prague after the national park " Saxon Switzerland"(And I have already told about the trip there) I find myself in" Czech Switzerland ". The nature there is really different from what I'm used to seeing in the center of the Czech Republic.
And visiting at least the main attractions promises leisure... On my second visit to the national park in the summer, and not in the winter, I spent the whole day exploring the "Saxon" and "Czech" Switzerland: I left Dresden early in the morning and returned to Prague in the late evening. And this is taking into account the fact that the distance between cities is some 150 kilometers - not like long-distance trips across Russia.
I had to walk a lot, so I advise you to be fully armed: sports shoes (preferably with a soft, shock-absorbing sole, since my feet literally "buzzed" after only Pravchitsky Gate), comfortable clothes, a bottle of water and maybe some then a snack.
So, what is “Bohemian Switzerland” and what can you see there? I'll tell you now.
The history of the park
I did not hear any legends and epics around the rocks, crevices and canyons formed here several thousand years ago due to the movement of volcanic rocks.
Therefore, I had to look for interesting information myself. It turns out that in the XIII-XIV centuries, colonialists were invited here from the lands where modern Germany is now located, and castles and other buildings were erected here by their forces. They also started the production of glass and coal mining. But due to the absence of plains and dense forests, their life was, to put it mildly, not simple and very specific. In one place, I was convinced with my own eyes that it is not so easy to deliver food and other necessary things here. But more on that below.
So, all this specificity was reflected in the architecture. But in the last century, many buildings and even settlements fell into decay. Probably, the possibility and accessibility of an easier life played an important role and people simply simply moved. Now here and there on the territory of "Czech Switzerland" you can contemplate the most picturesque ruins!
I have already spoken about the name of the park, namely the word "Switzerland", so I will not repeat myself. In 2000, this area was given the status of a national reserve.
Geography of the park
České Švýcarsko- all the same Elbe Sandstone Mountains, which I talked about at More precisely, a quarter of this mountain range. National park is located in the north of the country, its western border runs along the Elbe River. It was from there that I stopped by “Czech Switzerland” both times. Actually, both national parks ("Saxon" and "Czech") are divided by the border between Germany and the Czech Republic, they are adjacent to each other.
The highest point of the national park is Mount Decinsky Sneznik ( Děčínský Sněžník) - located at 723 meters above sea level. When I first heard about this, I smiled: I arrived in "Czech Switzerland" shortly after the Austrian Alps, where I lived in a hotel at an altitude of about 1,200-1,300 meters. But, in the end, the reserve is not far from being famous!
Later in the text I have added some maps. They will help you better imagine the geography of the area, but they are unlikely to explain how to get to a particular attraction. But! In the near settlement to each of them (and they are just visible on my maps), you can take a detailed paper map, as well as use the signs along the roads and trails. The park took care of the convenience of sightseeing, which I personally really liked.
How to get to "Czech Switzerland"
Globally there are two options: with a guided tour or on your own. I chose to travel in a rented car without guides and a group of onlookers. But for those who want to take a tour of the nature reserve, I advise you to read about tours from Dresden or Prague to the "Saxon Switzerland" (in the same place, I think, they also offer to the Czech part). The prices, it seems to me, are similar, because there are parks in the neighborhood. Below I will tell you about an independent journey to "Czech Switzerland" by car.
From Prague
You can drive from Prague to Czech Switzerland from different directions. There is a travel option through Hřensko. It is not far from this city that the Pravchitsky Gate is located. By the way, the first time I read Hřensko as Hrensko (I didn’t see the jacks above the letter "r", which gives the sound [hw]), and it happened: to this day I call an innocent town almost like a vegetable (everyone carries out associations to the extent of depravity, huh?). I marked the route Through Khrzhensky on the map below, the first half of the way will pass through the motorway, and then I propose to move along a regular road past towns and picturesque fields.
You can also enter via Jetřichovice. The route to Děčín is the same as the previous one, and at the fork follow the signs.
Or Krasná Lípa. In theory, you can drive through the same Děčín, it seems to me that in time it will not be too big a detour.
But the last half hour flew by faster: there were still no toilets on the way, the flow of tourists is small, but there is always, so now the "walk!" was supported not only by curiosity, but also by obvious necessity.
On the way, we met such cute "installations": I don't know who and why "propped up" the mountain, but the sight amused me.
And finally, you can see the Falcon's Nest estate (now the hotel / restaurant of the same name) and the Pravchitsky Gate to the right of it. It would seem, only to lend a hand. It was not so: the vertical distance from me to the destination was several tens of meters, which also had to go in a loop.
But all the efforts were justified. The height of the arch itself reaches 26 meters, so that, standing in this natural opening, you feel all the greatness of nature. In addition, there was a stall near the gate with my beloved ones. By the way, they cost less than at: only 1.25 EUR or 34 CZK.
Passing through the arch of the gate, you can see many trails leading to the observation decks. And literally "the whole world is at your feet."
Falcon's Nest (zámek Sokolí hnízdo)
Almost under the Pravchitsky Gate is the summer estate Falcon's Nest. The owners used to accommodate distinguished guests there. Now inside the castle there is an exhibition about the history of "Bohemian Switzerland" and a restaurant.
The restaurant has preserved original paintings, and the interior is designed in the style of the beginning of the last century.
I didn’t dine at the restaurant, as the local worker, as I understood, had already closed it. To be honest, I could not fully understand him: he agreed to speak only Czech and German, so the conversation came out almost on the fingers. But they let me into the toilet.
Near the "Falcon's Nest" there is a booth with the control of the cable car.
I understand that walking and carrying the necessary things here is not handy, so a utility box runs along the cable car, where you can fold the necessary things and send them up or down.
Šaunštejn Castle or Šaunštejn
I heard that the castle used to be a robber. That is, they built it as a fortification, but later it was captured by robbers and changed its name. Šaunštejn translates as "thieves' castle".
The castle itself has not survived, so now you can be content with the ruins and a good observation deck.
There are connecting bridges between the parts of this site. You know, the sensations are quite exciting when you are walking like this literally next to an abyss on a connecting structure, which at first glance seems quite light!
Dolský Mlýn
They say that the fragments that have survived from the mill date back to the beginning of the 14th century!
I heard that in the middle of the last century, the place even became a decoration for a Czech fairy tale film. You can even say that the film glorified this landmark.
Over time, without leaving the mill fell into decay more and more, until in 2007 it was declared a cultural monument and the process of destruction was stopped.
By the way, a hundred meters upstream there is a unique building: a reinforced concrete bridge. I heard that this is the first such structure (made of steel and concrete) in the Austro-Hungarian Empire, the bridge was built shortly before its collapse.
The nearest village to the mill is Kamenická Stráň, which is one kilometer away.
Royal spruce
They say that half a kilometer from the Dolskoy mill there is one spruce. Its age is about 180 years, and the trunk coverage is about 3 meters. Alas, I myself have not seen this ancient tree, since I was limited in time, but do not be lazy and walk to it from the mill.
Hřensko
To be honest, I really liked this small town almost on the border with Germany. Most likely, there are not enough just tenants: almost all of them run a hotel, restaurant or something else for the needs of tourists. But 2-3 storey houses are decorated very authentically, this is how small village towns or villages seem to me.
I also liked the fact that globally there are only two streets in Khrzhensky, running parallel along two banks. Still, high cliffs do not give room for expanding the territory inward.
If you go along the river from the highway where you turned to Khrzhensky (remember, I asked you to remember this path?), Then at the very end of it, in front of the parking lot, which I mentioned in the part about Pravchitsky Gate, there is a waterfall.
Near him I took two identical pictures in the direction of the city: one in winter, and the second in summer.
The difference, in my opinion, is not big.
There are many souvenirs near the track, but I didn't buy anything there. It's hard to say what prices: on the one hand, this is the Czech Republic, on the other, Germany and its prices are quite close. There is also another parking lot, you can ask the workers about the toilet nearby.
Other attractions
There are places where I have not been able to visit, but I will definitely make up for it on my next visit:
- Dittersbacher Peaks.
- Waterfalls near Brtniki.
- Boat trip on the Křinice River (Kirnitzschklamm) on the border of the Czech Republic and Germany.
And that's just what I heard after the trip. I'm pretty sure that if you start digging, less touristy spots in the national park might surface.
Park routes
At the moment, there are dozens of well-marked hiking trails and routes on the territory of the park: signs, a certain specificity of coverage and relief for the type of tourism, scenic beauty. In "Czech Switzerland" you can go climbing, horseback riding, cycling, camping in equipped places (and only in them!).
True, I was researching the territory on my own, without resorting to the help of tourist centers, but I can tell you the addresses of organizations that will help organize your leisure time if necessary:
- In the town of Krasna Lipa (Krásná Lípa).
- Opening hours: June - August from 09:00 to 18:00, January - February until 16:00, in other months until 17:00; break from 12:00 to 12:30.
- Address: Krinicke nam. 5, Krasna Lipa 407 46.
- In Hřensko.
- Opening hours: November - January from 09:00 to 17:00, in other months until 18:00.
- Address: Hřensko 71, 407 17 Hřensko.
- In Srbská Kamenice.
- Address: Nam. Miru 73, Ceska Kamenice, 407 21.
- In Jetřichovice.
- Address: Jetшichovice 393, CZ - 407 16.
Among the main routes, I know, there are:
- To the rocky gates (Pravchitsky): along the ornate stones and paths, then along the rocky wall (I and I passed it). Then the program "Falcon's Nest" - a visit near the gates of observation platforms on the tops of the rocks.
- To the Dolskaya mill.
- To Schaunstein.
Where to stay
If you want to prefer a camping to the hotel, then in the above-mentioned tourist centers, you should inquire about special parking lots, outside of equipped campsites you cannot set up a tent city: a specially protected area, after all.
If you are more attracted to the east, then choose Krasnu-Lipa or Khrzybska.
Room prices start from EUR 8-10 for a camping site and EUR 45 for a double room with one bed.
"Bohemian Switzerland" in winter
I was in the national park in winter, but their winter was rather slushy at that time, so there was no question of any walk along the forest paths. Castle Falcon's Nest, again, summer. So I had to be content with waterfalls on rivers and towns around the "Czech Switzerland".
If you want to see as many of the above, then I advise you to come in the summer!
, .Anything to add?
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National Park "Bohemian Switzerland" (it is the national park "Bohemian Switzerland" was founded on January 1, 2000 and covers an area of almost 80 square meters. Km. The park is located on the northern border with Germany and continues on German territory (where it is called "Saxon Switzerland") The purpose of the park is to preserve the natural beauty of the local area, so that human intervention is strictly limited.
The main treasure of the park is unique sandstone rock formations covered with green islands of well-preserved old forests and rare plants. These rocks once rose from the bottom of the sea, where sand has been collecting for 10 million years to reach a thickness of more than 1 km by now. The most important geological processes took place here in the Mesozoic.
The modern amazing landscape of the national park is represented by these sediments, pressed into cliffs, which cracked and split under the influence of wind, rivers, temperature changes, etc., forming to our days stunningly picturesque cliffs, rocky towers, canyons, arches and windows. The most famous of these is the Pink Hill, the highest in Bohemian Switzerland.
The main treasure of the park is unique sandstone rock formations covered with green islands of well-preserved old forests.
Bohemian Switzerland is a real forest kingdom. The forest covers almost all of its territory. Mainly coniferous-birch forests grow here, the oldest of which can be found in inaccessible gorges and on high cliffs. Since the soil on the latter is either poor or absent, very viable representatives of the flora grow here, creating very picturesque paintings with their curved trunks. The fauna of the national park is also rich: the landscape creates ideal conditions for nesting of many species of birds, colonies of bats live in rocky crevasses, shy and nocturnal animals such as deer live in the forests.
History of Czech Switzerland
The first inhabitants of Bohemian Switzerland were probably hunters, fishermen and gatherers - which is natural for that time, more than 10 thousand years ago. They roamed the area, setting up settlements along the streams. Tools of labor, pieces of coal and utensils are still found here. Much later, Bohemian Switzerland was partially settled by farmers. From time to time, a fortified fort was erected here and there, and trade caravans went through the territory of the national park.
Hiking in Bohemian Switzerland
In the 13-14 centuries, Bohemian kings invited colonialists here from the territory of modern Germany. The latter built villas, stone castles, engaged in logging, began to produce glass and coal. But, since the forests were dense, and there were no wide plains in Bohemian Switzerland, the life of these communities had a specific character. The architecture was also specific: in the national park, old half-timbered houses of a typical design are still preserved (in particular, in Kamenicka Strana and Vysokaya Lipa). In the second half of the 20th century. many of these settlements, abandoned, have fallen into disrepair, and in some places in the park you can find the most picturesque ruins.
The tourism development of the region began quite early, in about the second half of the 18th century. The romantic painters living in Dresden began their first travels in what was later called Saxon Switzerland (the name was adapted in the Czech version). The systematic development of tourism began in the 19th century, when landowners from local estates (the Kinski and Clari-Aldringen families), as well as the first tourist communities (the Mountain Society of Bohemian Switzerland and the Mountain Society of North Bohemia) began to step by step increase the attractiveness of the region for travelers. The first walking trails, restaurants, hotels, observation decks and observation towers began to appear here. Fans of water sports increasingly came here to sail on the Elbe, and the gorges in Kamenice were full of punt boats.
Bohemian Switzerland Tourism
Today, there are dozens of well-marked hiking trails in the park. Here you can ride a bike, go horseback riding and rock climbing in the designated areas, and stop overnight at the official campsites. You can even bring your pets here.
But what is not allowed is to leave the marked trail in zone I of the park.
Today, there are several extremely interesting places on the territory of the national park, which tourists come to see from all over Europe. This is a natural stone arch 26 by 16 m, which is called the Pravcicka Gate; gorges of the Kamenice river; valley of the Krynice river; the famous rock Pink Hill; the town of Vysokaya-Lipa; Dolskaya mill; Dittersbacher peaks; waterfalls near Brtniki ... You can list further, but it is already obvious: it is not enough to spend a day or two in Czech Switzerland. It is worth coming here as if on a full-fledged vacation.
Practical information
Tourist centers are located in different parts of the national park. The main one is located in Krasnaya-Lipa. Information centers are located in Saule, Jetrichovice, Serbska-Kamenica, Hrensko.
Opening hours of the tourist center in Krasnaya Lipa: daily from 9:00 to 12:00 and from 12:30 to 17:00, in January - February - until 16:00, in June - August - until 18:00.
You can get to Krasnaya-Lipa by car in about two hours, if you go strictly north through Melnik and Cescu-Lipa. Another option is to take the train to Germany, to Bad Schandau, which is located in the German part of the national park (Saxon Switzerland). This trip will take about two hours.
There is in the north-west of the Czech Republic in the Ustecky region, on the very border with Germany, an amazingly beautiful reserved place, which is called nothing else than Czech-Saxon Switzerland. This is a corner of almost untouched wilderness, a magical reserve park that simultaneously covers the territory of two countries - the Czech Republic and Germany.
Many tourists from all over the country come here every day and not only to enjoy the clean air, the wild beauty of the reserve, which is called the Bohemian Switzerland Park. Interestingly, a part of the protected lands found on the territory of neighboring Germany is called Saxon Switzerland.
Why are these places so attractive for those who are tired of civilization?
Bohemian Switzerland - short description
It all began many millennia ago - it was then that from the rocks of volcanic origin on the lands of the current national park, amazingly beautiful canyons, crevices, gorges, unusual in their shape and structure, sandstone rocks, as if endowed with a human soul were formed ...
Dozens of centuries passed, and by 2000 a national park with an area of 80 square kilometers appeared on the map of the country of beer and dumplings. - Czech paradise or Czech Switzerland. But long before that, a small urban-type settlement - Grzhensk - had become a real tourist center, a pier for everyone who wanted to relax away from noisy cities. The tourist infrastructure is well developed here and, despite its modest size, in this town, always filled with tourists, there is always a place to stay for the night or just have an inexpensive and tasty snack.
Most often, guests from the capital come to admire the reserved paradise, and the journey can take only one day. But if you want to have a full and high quality rest, it is best to book accommodation in a boarding house or a hotel room for at least 2-3 days, since there really is something to catch the eye of even a very experienced traveler.
Attention! In Hrzhensk, you can buy cute souvenirs in the form of gnomes and other fairy-tale characters for children or just for good memory.
Attractions of Czech Switzerland
So, you were eager to see with your own eyes what other guests of this magical place enthusiastically tell. Then let's make a list of the sights of the reserve together, which are simply prohibited by the law of conscience and honor!
Advice! If you want to fully enjoy the vibrant colors of the luxurious nature of these places - go to Bohemian Switzerland in autumn, September or October.
Thanks to the numerous signs scattered throughout the protected park, you can choose for your company both more difficult, longer, 15-25 km long, as well as simple routes in Bohemian Switzerland, the length of which is 8-12 km.
Pravcicka gate
There is a special rock in Bohemian Switzerland, which is proudly called the symbol of the entire reserve. This is "Pravchitska brana", which in Russian sounds like "Pravchitskie gates". The unique rock is the highest in all of Europe and looks like a monumental sandstone arch created by Mother Nature, 16 meters high and 26 meters long. The width of the rock structure is more than 4 meters
It will not be difficult to get to the Gate - from Hrzhensk, where you can leave your car, there is a walking trail about 4 km long. to get closer to the attraction, you will have to pay entrance tickets for 75 CZK and although you are not allowed to climb the Gate, it is worth admiring them up close. The entrance ticket for children costs 25 CZK.
From the grandiose Pravcicke Gate, you can easily get to their smaller copy, only 2 meters high - the so-called Small Pravcicke Gate. A wide enough path leads to them, suitable for cycling.
Advice! Do not confuse this path with a narrow path marked in red on the maps of the area, otherwise you will have to wander through the mountains for about an hour, although in the end you will still be able to reach the Small Pravchitsky Gate.
Schaunstein Castle
Near the Small Gate, you can see a sign leading to the rocky castle - this is the Shunstein robber castle, shrouded in secrets. The road to it is quite difficult, about a kilometer long, you will have to climb steep steps and even squeeze through the tunnels between the rocks. But, believe me, the views of extraordinary beauty and scale from the observation deck of the castle are worth the effort!
Castle "Falcon's Nest"
Right next to the Pravchitsky Gate, right in the rock in 1882, a castle with the romantic name "Falcon's Nest" was built, more reminiscent of a large hunting lodge. It is surprisingly well preserved to this day, and today, within the walls of the ancient castle - the family estate of the Clari - Aldringens, you can enjoy dinner in a magnificently decorated restaurant overlooking the whole of Bohemian Switzerland. Also in "Falcon's Nest" it is worth visiting a museum dedicated to this region.
Mill "Dolsky Mlyn"
This once very popular mill has now turned into ruins, but even today the inhabitants of these lands remember how many years ago the fairy tale "The Arrogant Princess" was filmed here. It is hard to believe that the structure, lost in the green forests, was once a very busy place and center of intersection of roads for several centuries in a row.
Village "Khrzhipska"
This colorful authentic village fell in love with the guests of this region because it was in it that an old glass workshop once functioned, glass blowers of which made "Bohemian glass" back in the 15th century. It seems incredible, but the workshop even today cordially opens its doors to tourists: here you can read the accounting books of the past centuries with a clever look, see how the most famous glass in the Czech Republic is blown, and at the same time buy your favorite glasses, vases or figurines made of crystal or Bohemian glass.
Abandoned Silver Mines
Arranged in Czech Switzerland and very interesting excursions to the ancient mines where silver was once mined. You can personally feel like a real miner, putting on a protective helmet and going down under the supervision of a guide into the bowels of the mine.
Falkenstein Castle
Those tourists who are not too lazy to climb higher into the mountains will be amazed by an unforgettable sight - the unusual Falkenstein Castle, located right among the rocks. The views from here, especially if you climb higher, are fabulous!
Panska rock
A real geological phenomenon is a huge 12-meter cliff, which is masterfully assembled by nature from polygonal basalt slabs. There is a similar giant in Northern Ireland, but the Czech stone relative is quite accessible to tourists and is located 500 meters south of the road number 13, the landmark is the village of Prahen, located 18 km from Decin.
Kamenice gorge
To visit this picturesque gorge, you need to follow the walking path marked in green on the map, from the village of Mezna to the canyon of the Kamenice River. In these marvelous lands, you will walk along a wooden bridge through a 30-meter long gorge, and then you can go down to the piers, from where excursions on gondolas along the Dikoe and Tikhoye gorges are held. If tourists follow the path marked in blue on the map, they will come out to the authentic village of Mezni Luka.
Dikoe and Tikhoye gorges
Let's dwell on these gorges in more detail. Once on the steep canyon of the Kamenitsa River, travelers find themselves in places where the river is blocked by dams. Between these dams, you can raft on a flat-bottomed boat led by a local gondolier. First, the guests of the reserve will sail along the Wild Gorge (Divoka Souteska), 250 meters long, romantic and calm. But then the Quiet Gorge (“Tiha Souteska”) is almost 500 meters long and is “decorated” with a picturesque waterfall, the waters of which rush out of the rock with noise.
Suha Kamenitsa
In early spring and in the autumn months, the canyon of a small stream flowing into the Laba (Elbe hand) fills with water and dozens of miniature waterfalls gurgle along the placer of huge boulders between the rocks. In summer, the waters dry up, and Suha Kamenitsa fills with mystery and cozy silence.
Gazebo
It was once possible to reach the spectacular Belvedere observation deck, overhanging the canyon of the Elbe River, along a perfectly straight road leading from the castle in the town of Binovce. Tourists on the Belvedere are waiting for amazing views of the curving river and bizarre sandstone cliffs that resemble petrified giants.
Ruzhovsky Vrh
Something awaits those who are not afraid of steep climbs! There are many unique viewing platforms... Although there are no special sights here, the views are well worth the effort of climbing.
Wolf board
Walking along the road through the canyon of the Krinitsa River, called Kijovské udoli and known for its unbridled beauty, tourists will come to another attraction. This is a stone slab; in the 17th century, a story about one hunter who was able to kill two wolves at once was carved on it.
From Prague to Bohemian Switzerland: What tourists need to know
It is worth noting that an excursion from Prague to Czech Switzerland is very popular, since the journey does not take very long, and the pleasure is well worth it!
The reserve is open to visitors all year round: from April to October, you can stay on its territory from 10-00 to 18-00, and from November to March - only on weekends from 10-00 to 16-00.
How to get from Prague to Bohemian Switzerland
Let's consider all the options:
- Public transport: in Prague itself we take a train to the town of Decin. Here we change to shuttle bus No. 434, which will take us to Khrzhensk.
- Own or rented car: we drive along the intercity highway to the town of Decin, then from there we go to Khrzhensky. Here, at paid parking lots, you can leave your car and continue to travel around the reserve on foot.
- Steamer: first you have to take a train to Decin, from Decin you will need to walk about a kilometer to the pier, and from there, on a steamer plying the Labe River (aka Elbe), sail to the final stop, which is also located about 800 meters from Grzhensk.
Where to stay
Despite the fact that Grzhensk is a rather small town, there are no problems with accommodation here.
The following hotels are relatively affordable in price:
- Hotel "Labe", near which bus №434 stops. The cost of living in a room per day starts from 660 CZK, and during the season (from April to the end of October) - from 730 CZK (breakfast is included in the price). Hotel website: www.labehotel.cz
- Hotel U Lipy offers accommodation in double or triple rooms, which cost 1,100 and 1,650 crowns per day, respectively. Hotel website: www.hotelulipy.zaridi.to/lipa.htm
Entrance fee and excursions
The entrance ticket to the territory of the Bohemian Switzerland nature reserve costs 50 CZK. Excursions are paid separately. For example, the favorite excursion of all tourists - on a canoe along the Edmund Gorge - lasts about 15-20 minutes and costs 80 CZK for adults and half as much for children.
Other excursions vary in price and in the number of attractions visited. In principle, you can get a map of the territory at the entrance to the reserve and bypass those interesting places that are most attractive to you.
We learned about Saxon Switzerland quite by accident, Pasha came across an article describing a trip to Saxon Switzerland with impressive photos. I decided to see what it was and where. It turned out that the Saxon Switzerland National Park is located not far from Dresden, right on the border with the Czech Republic. On the Czech side, the park is called Bohemian Switzerland.
The park is not very large, but it has many trekking routes and you can easily spend at least a whole week. But thinking that a week of vacation is an unaffordable luxury, we decided that we would go to Saxon Switzerland somehow just for a long weekend.
How to get to Saxon Switzerland?
The easiest way is by car. In this case, moving between routes and attractions in the park will be easy and convenient. The only minus routes need to be planned either back / forth or roundabouts to get back to the car.
It is also possible to get and get around by public transport. On the German side, the closest Big City- Dresden, from Czech - Prague. Both of them provide easy access to the park. But on the spot, in order to get to the beginning of routes from the surrounding towns and villages, you will have to find out the schedule of local buses and trains.
Where to stay in the vicinity of Saxon Switzerland?
If you are in a car, then this issue is not so acute. From any village you can easily get where you need to.
If you are traveling by public transport, Děčín or Hřensko are good choices on the Czech side. Decin is larger, but from it you have to go to the park. On the other hand, several routes start directly from Hřensko, including one of the most famous to Pravčická brána.
On the German side, there are several options. If you want to visit Bastei Bridge and take a walk in its surroundings, then Rathen or Bad Schandau is the best choice. If you want to walk along other routes of the park, then you need to choose something from the villages close to the route. Almost all have small family hotels where you will feel like a real German.
We had to stay two nights on a holiday weekend plus we were in a car and weren't tied to buses. After looking at the options on Booking.com and Airbnb (we wrote more about what airbnb is in the Airbnb article - what is it? How to use and how to book accommodation in any city?), We chose accommodation on airbnb in Decin, but so far we were thinking this apartment have already passed. Therefore, the next suitable for the price, comfort and location was a room in a family hotel in the village of Ceska Kamenice.
What to do in Bohemian and Saxon Switzerland?
1 full day - Czech Switzerland
The route starts in the village of Mezni Louka and gradually climbs towards Pravcicka Brana. On the way, there is a beautiful forest, rocky walls, separate rocky outliers - in general, very beautiful!
Then Pravcicka Brana and the 19th century building - Falcon's Nest. Entrance to the observation decks 75 CZK. On the official website you can check the opening hours and current prices www.pbrana.cz. Most of them are free to visit, so it's up to you whether to go to the paid part.
After this trail, you can go to Mezni Louki through the forest, or you can, like us, continue along the canyon. There is a second route Divoká soutěska and a second ferry - it will cost 60 CZK. We liked the trail very much, it passes almost over the mountain river itself, sometimes overhanging. There are beautiful rocks around. On the first section there is a waterfall attraction - they take you to a wet wall, tell some fairy tales, it depends on the boat manager, and then ... suddenly a powerful stream of water falls from the waterfall like a fountain. Nobody expected this ...
During a boat trip, you will see not only a waterfall, but also beautiful wooden figures, each with its own history, you will be shown interesting rock formations that are similar to something or someone. The second part is less interesting, simply because it repeats the first. Although ... Whether nature can repeat itself in such unusual forms is a moot point. From the end of the second trail, another 20 minutes and we get off at Mezni Louki, right to the central parking. By the way, parking is the most expensive "entertainment" - 100 CZK / 1 day.
Also, this route can be taken from Hřensko. You can go in the opposite direction, but I do not advise this, since the ascent from Hřensko is long and monotonous, it’s much better to go down there quickly.
2 day or half day Saxon Switzerland and the famous Bastei Bridge
Most often, the route to the Bastei Bridge starts either at Basteistraße - in this case, parking will cost 3 € / day plus 1.5 € / person for the bus shuttle to the beginning of the route. The second option is the village of Rathen, almost all large parking lots are located in most of the village on the other side of the Elbe and you will have to take a ferry to get to the start of the route.
Only residents and hotel clients are allowed to enter the part of the Rathen village, which is located with the Bastei Bridge on one bank. However, the car can be parked in private parking lots just before reaching the village. The cost is 3 € / day.
Before the start of the route 15-20 minutes through a pleasant forest. First, the signs took us to Basteistrasse, after looking at the prices, we returned to the idea that we would leave the car in the village itself. But ... they saw a sign prohibiting the passage of non-residents. There was a private parking nearby for 3 €, but it was almost all occupied. Cars were parked on the side of the road, and there was no parking sign. Of course we parked and went to the Bastei bridge.
Bastei is a group of sandstone rocks, which, under the influence of time and nature, took on very beautiful and unusual forms; Bastei is also famous for the Bastei bridge. Bastei Bridge was built in 1824 and it was originally made of wood. In 1851, the Bastei bridge was replaced by a sandstone bridge, and so it has remained to this day.
If you have at least 3-4 hours, then you should go not only to the Bastei bridge, but also walk along the route further, go down to the Elbe and return to Rathen along the cycle path.
We were unlucky on the first evening, the weather was not very good, and as soon as we began to climb to the bridge it began to rain ... Without thinking twice, we threw a cursory glance at the bridge and drove to the place to spend the night. The second attempt was in the morning before going home. The sun was shining and the weather was just great. But we had very little time, so we limited ourselves to a hike to the Bastei bridge and all the viewing platforms and back. This route took us about 2-2.5 hours of a leisurely walk from the car. There is an optional paid section along the route, cost 2 € / person. The route goes along the footbridge between the rocks. There is a description of several historical details, although little is left of them. But beautiful views of the Bastei bridge and the surrounding rocks.
By the way, the most famous photos of the Bastei Bridge are taken from free viewing platforms. True, fog or beautiful sunset / dawn rays must be specially awaited. Although you might get lucky ?!
As a result, I would like to say that if you are in the vicinity, and you have 1-2 days free, then you should definitely visit Czech and Saxon Switzerland!
The Czech Republic is not offended by the mountains. The Czech mountains, of course, are not high, but picturesque. And one mountainous region even got the name "" ( České Švýcarsko)... Eco marvel, you say, the labels "Switzerland" and "Venice" are the most common. A little city in the canals - right there "Venice". And if the terrain is hilly - "Switzerland", of course.
As for Bohemian Switzerland, in this case the Swiss themselves likened this corner of the Ore Mountains to their Switzerland. Swiss artists arrived in Dresden - to restore paintings in the Dresden Gallery - and in the vicinity of the Elbe they discovered an extremely attractive place: sharp sandstone cliffs, deep canyons, hills overgrown with forests. “Well, like we have in Switzerland,” said the artists. And so it happened.
On the Czech side, the Bohemian Switzerland National Park was formed. And on the other side of the Elbe - "Saxon Switzerland". We visited both there and there. In this article I will talk about our walk in Bohemian Switzerland, and in the next one - about Saxon Switzerland.
We left Prague at about 8 am and two hours later we were already approaching the Czech-German border. The river (in Czech Laba), along which the border of the countries passes, looks very romantic in this place: it is not narrow and not wide, it flows among the wooded mountains, along its banks you can see houses here and there, but in general the place seems secluded and quiet ...
Hrzhensko town
Our goal - Hrzhensk town, which stands at the confluence of the Kamenitsa River into the Laba. Hřensko is the starting point for hiking trails in the Bohemian Switzerland National Park.
Berth near Hřensko
Along the edges of the gorge, like entrance towers, there are two hotels. The Labe Hotel looks especially impressive - it seems that it is leaning against a rock.
The hotel opposite is more modest
We turn right and move along the Kamenitsa river.
The town of Hřensko begins with long trade rows. Vietnamese trade here.
The rows end in front of the main city square, as tiny as the whole city, with a small church.
The city stretches along the river. Houses stand on both sides of the river, with mountain slopes rising behind them.
Many hotels and private guesthouses. There are cafes and shops, in a word, the entire infrastructure of the resort town. The houses are pretty. Let's say this one, overgrown with ivy.
And the most charming villa is tucked away from the road, behind a rocky ledge.
The series of houses along Kamenitsa is completed by the Praha hotel, one of the best in the city. And the whole Hřensko from “Labe” to “Praha” can be walked in 15 minutes.
Further, the paths diverge. There is a walking trail along the river (along it we returned to the city in three hours). To the right there is a road leading to the village of Janov, to the left - to Mezné Louka and further to Jetřichovice, an old Saxon village.
Hiking trails in Bohemian Switzerland
Most of the tourists (including us) go to the town of Mezne Louka, from where hiking trails in the national park "Bohemian Switzerland" in the Hřensko region begin.
Scheme of hiking trails Hřensko
The most popular route leads to Pravcicka Brana, a unique natural arched bridge. From Mezní Louka to Pravcicka Brana walk along the path for 70 minutes (as indicated on the map of the park) and then another 45 minutes will take the road to Hřensko.
We are heading along a different route. First, we pass 2 km along an asphalt road. The road goes among the fields.
Rocks can be seen in the distance above the tops of the trees.
We reach the boarding house "Na Vyhlidce".
A path begins behind the house that leads to the Kamenitsa River.
The descent to the river is steep and winding, the path winds among rocks and trees.
The mountain serpentine ends with an exit to the bridge.
We reached the bottom of the gorge. From the bridge, the canyon looks spectacular: vertical rock walls stand opposite each other. How long has the water cut through the rocks to make its way!
Behind the bridge, the path turns and goes along the coast along the rocks (and sometimes - under the overhanging rocks or in a punched tunnel).
At one point, the gorge makes a sharp turn and widens. At the site of the extension, there is a house, which houses a small museum dedicated to the nature of this region.
Rafting on the Kamenitsa river
And here is the pier. Near the walkways, there are punt-boats painted in bright green. The boat is designed for 26 people.
Waiting for the laggards
We load into the boat and set sail downstream.
This part of Kamenitsa is called.
The boat is operated by a boatman with a pole. He stands at the stern, drives the boat and jokes. And in one place he slowed down, pulled his hand on the stretched cable, and a waterfall fell from the rocks from above. Fortunately, not on us. The waterfall did not last long, I managed to photograph the last streams.
In some places amusing wooden figures met among the rocks.
And behind the next turn such rocky fingers appeared.
This is how we sailed and sailed along Edmund Gorge. The place is very quiet, secluded, filled with mysterious gloomy beauty. Everything is as if from a fairy tale: silently flowing dark water, mossy stones in the riverbed, the walls of the gorge rising upward, knotty tree roots clinging to the rocks, dark green crowns reflected in the water.
The only time our privacy was violated - one boat passed by us, against the current. Yes, pushing the boat against the current with the sixth is not an easy task.
Finally the pier appeared. We disembarked and walked further along the path along the river.
I thought that our walk through the reserved forest came to an end, but the way to Hřensko took another 30-40 minutes. The gorge went on and on, we all stretched out along the path, there were few people, only people began to meet closer to Hřensko.
