The Czech Republic is not offended by mountains. Czech mountains, of course, low, but picturesque. And one mountainous area even got the name "" ( České Švýcarsko). Eco wonder, you say, the labels "Switzerland" and "Venice" are the most common. A little city in the canals - right there "Venice". And if the area is hilly - "Switzerland", of course.
As for Czech Switzerland, in this case the Swiss themselves likened this corner of the Ore Mountains to their Switzerland. Swiss artists arrived in Dresden to restore paintings in the Dresden Gallery and found an extremely attractive place in the vicinity of the Elbe: sharp sandstone cliffs, deep canyons, forested hills. “Well, like we have in Switzerland,” said the artists. And so it happened.
On the Czech side formed national park « Czech Switzerland". And on the other side of the Elbe - "Saxon Switzerland". We visited both there and there. In this article I will talk about our walk in Czech Switzerland, and in the next - about Saxony.
We left Prague around 8 in the morning and two hours later we were already approaching the Czech-German border. The river (in Czech Laba), along which the border of countries passes, looks very romantic in this place: it is not narrow and not wide, it flows among the wooded mountains, houses are visible in some places along its banks, but in general the place seems secluded and quiet .
City of Grzhensko
Our goal - city of Grzhensko, which stands at the confluence of the Kamenitsa River with the Laba. Hiking trails through the Bohemian Switzerland National Park start from Hřensko.
Pier near Grzhensko
Along the edges of the gorge, like entrance towers, there are two hotels. The Labe Hotel looks especially impressive - it seems that it is leaning against a rock.
The hotel opposite is more modest
We turn right and move along the Kamenitsa River.
The city of Grzhensko begins with long shopping arcades. The Vietnamese trade here.
The rows end in front of the main city square, as miniature as the whole city, with a small church.
The city is stretched along the river. Houses stand on both sides of the river, and behind them the mountain slopes rise.
Many hotels and private pensions. There are cafes and shops, in a word, the entire infrastructure of the resort town. The houses are cute. Let's say this one, overgrown with ivy.
And the most charming villa is hidden a little away from the road, behind a rocky ledge.
The series of houses along Kamenitsa is completed by the Praha Hotel, one of the best in the city. And the whole Grzhensko from "Labe" to "Praha" can be walked in 15 minutes.
Then the paths diverge. There is a hiking trail along the river (we returned to the city three hours later). To the right, the motor road leads to the village of Janov, to the left - to Mezne Louka and further to Jetřichovice, an old Saxon village.
Hiking trails in Bohemian Switzerland
Most tourists (including us) go to the town of Mezne Louka, from where hiking trails begin in the national park "Czech Switzerland" in the Grzhensko district.
Scheme of hiking routes Grzhensko
The most popular route leads to Pravcicka Brana, a unique natural arch bridge. From Mezni Louka to Pravcicka Bran, walk along the path for 70 minutes (as indicated on the map of the park) and then another 45 minutes will take the road to Grzhensko.
We're heading down a different route. First, we pass 2 km along an asphalt road. The road goes through the fields.
Rocks can be seen in the distance above the crowns of trees.
We reach the boarding house "Na Vyhlidce".
Behind the house begins a trail that leads to the river Kamenitsa.
The descent to the river is steep and winding, the path winding among the rocks and trees.
Mountain serpentine ends with an exit to the bridge.
We have reached the bottom of the gorge. From the bridge, the canyon looks spectacular: vertical rock walls are opposite each other. How long did the water cut through the rocks to make its way!
Behind the bridge, the path turns and goes along the coast along the rocks (and sometimes under the overhanging rocks or in a punched tunnel).
At one point, the gorge makes a sharp turn and widens. In the place of expansion there is a house, which houses a small museum dedicated to the nature of this region.
Rafting on the river Kamenitsa
And here is the pier. Near the walkways are punts painted bright green. The boat is designed for 26 persons.
We are waiting for the laggards
We load into the boat and set sail downstream.
This section of Kamenitsa is called.
The boat is driven by a boatman with a pole. He stands at the stern, rules the boat and jokes. And in one place he slowed down, pulled a stretched cable with his hand, and a waterfall fell from above the rocks. Fortunately, not on us. The waterfall did not last long, I managed to photograph the last jets.
Here and there among the rocks there were funny wooden figurines.
And behind the next turn, such rocky fingers appeared.
This is how we sailed and sailed along the Edmundov Gorge. The place is very quiet, secluded, filled with a mysterious gloomy beauty. Everything is as if from a fairy tale: silently flowing dark water, mossy stones in the riverbed, the walls of the gorge going up, knotty tree roots clinging to the rocks, dark green crowns reflected in the water.
The only time our privacy was violated was when a boat passed us against the current. Yes, pushing a boat against the current with a sixth is not an easy task.
Finally the pier appeared. We disembarked and continued down the path along the river.
I thought that our walk through the protected forest had come to an end, but the way to Grzhensko took another 30-40 minutes. The gorge went on and on, we all stretched out along the path, there were few people, only closer to Grzhensko people began to meet.
Hello friends. Czech Switzerland. Quite a strange name, whatever it may be hiding, isn't it? And behind it is a Czech nature reserve, located on the border with Germany. On the other side of the border, it passes into Saxon Switzerland. But the park is famous not only for its strange name. What else? Now we'll tell you.
It is believed that in the 19th century, two Swiss were invited to the restoration. They were very surprised when they found sandstone mountains nearby, strongly reminiscent of their native land.
Artists, peering into the rocks of a foreign country, painted Swiss landscapes familiar from childhood.
Thanks to these paintings, the place was called Saxon Switzerland. There is another version: the artists themselves gave the place such a name.
Centuries passed and here was the border between Germany and the Czech Republic. Part of the magnificent places remained on the territory of Saxony, and part on the territory of the Czech Republic.
The Czechs slightly changed the name and Czech Switzerland (České Švýcarsko) appeared. The name stuck.
Since 2000, this area has received the status of a national park.
Bohemian Switzerland National Park is its official name.
Attractions and entertainment of the park
- The symbol of the park is the Pravčická brána (Pravčická brána), the largest mountain arch of natural origin in Europe.
It cannot be accessed due to the possibility of collapse, but can be admired from one of several viewing platforms.
The most famous of them is called Belvedere. It hangs over the Elbe Canyon.
- Near the Gate there is a hunting castle "Falcon's Nest" or Zámek Sokolí hnízdo.
It was built in the 19th century. Now it houses a museum, as well as a restaurant with original interior decor.
From the big gates you can get to the small ones. They are called the Small Pravchitsky Gate.
Near the Small Gate you will see a sign leading to Schaunstein Castle.
- Move on. There you will see the Dolsky Mlyn mill.
Now mostly ruins remain.
And next to it is the Ferdinand Gorge, which got its name in honor of Archduke Ferdinand.
Elsewhere in the Czech Republic, the castle of Archduke Ferdinand has been preserved - where even now everything is kept as during the life of the owner, and in the beer hall you can try the beer "7 bullets" by the number of bullets that killed the archduke and his family. The humor is black, bitter, and beer is praised by many.
- Another attraction of these places is the village of Khrzhensko.
It is famous for the fact that it was on its territory that a glass workshop used to function, where Bohemian glass has been made since the 15th century.
You can still visit it today to get acquainted with the account books of those times, see how glass is blown or even buy something for yourself.
- Another suggestion for adventure lovers is an excursion to the abandoned silver mines.
Here you can go down to find out how the miners worked, or climb higher into the mountains - they will get acquainted with the Falkenstein castle, located right in the middle of the rocks.
But only ruins remained of the Tolshtein castle. But from its walls a stunning view of the park opens.
- Another castle that still impresses with its size is Decin Castle.
It was a military fortress and residence for local aristocrats. European artists and even monarchs often visited here.
- If during the tour you miss the legends, go to the Wolf Board.
This is a stone slab with a story about a hunter who killed two wolves at once.
The mountains here, though small, are still mountains. Here you can go mountaineering, trekking, rafting.
Unprepared tourists can feel like real rock climbers, however, only in special equipment and with an instructor.
The entire park is laced with many equipped walking paths. They vary in complexity and length.
There are special routes for bike fans.
Despite the fact that you are in Czech Switzerland, there are gondola tours here.
They pass along the river Kamenitsa and two gorges: Silent and Wild.
You can check your physical fitness in another way - walk through the Mouse Hole.
Despite the name, this place has nothing to do with mice. This is a narrow staircase leading to the top of the cliff. It was built on the initiative of Prince Ferdinand Kinsky.
This video is longer, but also more beautiful:
Where to stay in Bohemian Switzerland National Park
Now many housing options have appeared on the service Airbnb. We have written how to use this service. If you do not find a free room in the hotel, then look for accommodation through this booking site.
We offer good options for hotels in Czech Switzerland
How to get there
The best thing rent a car and avoid using trains and buses. Driving around the Czech Republic is pleasant, plus you are not tied to schedules.
- From Prague
To get to this corner of the Czech Republic and see the romantic ruins among the mountains and mines, you need to get to Decin (Děčín), the city closest to the park, from the Prague Mosarikov train station.
From Decin by bus another 20-25 minutes to Grzhensko. You can also rent a bike there.
You can take a taxi - this is the most beautiful way. You will need to drive along the Elbe.
Don't be afraid to come here in winter. Waterfalls in ice are simply amazing, as are all kinds of bizarre rocks, rare plants and other riches of this region, which we have already talked about.
- From Dresden
Getting from Dresden is even faster. By car along highway 172, after the castle, you need to cross to the other side near the city of Bad Spandau. When you cross the border and get into the Czech Republic, you will have highway number 172 to turn into highway number 62. Drive a couple of kilometers and turn left. All in Czech Switzerland.
Even 2 weeks before the trip to the Czech Republic, I began to plan some 2-day trip to nature. After some gathering of information, I chose the option - Bohemian-Saxon Switzerland.
Bohemian and Saxon Switzerland, in fact, a single natural complex of sandstone rocks and gorges, which ended up in two neighboring countries: the Czech Republic and Germany (Saxony). Those. Bohemian Switzerland turns out to be a gate to another Switzerland, even more picturesque: Saxon, i.e. to Germany.
First of all, I booked rooms at the "Labe" hotel on the website http://www.labehotel.cz/gb/
This hotel is located in the town of Hrensko.
You can also choose other hotels there. You can see the list here-
Czech Switzerland Hotels, pensions:
http://www.cztour.cz/en/hotels-pansion.php
We traveled with a friend from Prague first by train to Decin (Decin)
For example, you can take the EuroCity 178 Johannes Brahms train at 6:31 and be at 8 in the morning
in Decin, and from there by bus for about 20-25 minutes and on the spot in Grzhensko
And the whole day ahead!
For reference, the train to Decin costs 165 crowns (if you order in advance, then as I understand
will cost even less) The exchange rate at that time was like 1 euro = 25 crowns.
All information on trains-buses can and should be taken on the website -
http://jizdnirady.idnes.cz/vlakyautobusymhd/spojeni/
Here is the hotel "Labe". The bus stops almost 40 meters from the hotel.
In general, we settled in a hotel. I took 2 numbers. I liked the layout very much - there was an exit from 2 rooms to one balcony.
A couple of panoramic shots
There is practically one road in Grzhensko and along it there are guesthouses, restaurants, many shops and a lot of shops where the Vietnamese trade.
In general, the Czech Republic is flooded with Vietnamese. They sell all sorts of cheap consumer goods in all
Czech cities. And the Vietnamese turned out to be quite impudent. When I was walking along Grzhensko, a Vietnamese lady, furious that I did not react to her goods, hit me on the legs with a stick.
Here you can see the hotel Praha - probably here in this place the most expensive hotel
Such a small square in this Grzhensko
The houses are under the rocks - and after all, when it rains heavily, there may be a collapse of the rock
Village idyll
Road along the Elbe. Germany is on the other side
On the other side is the German side (railway station). On the Czech side, you can see part of the ferry, on which we will cross to the other side tomorrow.
On the road along which we arrived by bus there are shops "Duty free"
After all, the border is with Germany. The prices are really lower than for example in Prague.
We ate and drank beer in one of the many restaurants and then our way
lay in the Pravcicka bran.
Read on.
How to get to Saxon Switzerland
Saxon Switzerland National Park is located on the border of Germany and the Czech Republic on the German side and is a mountain forest massif of the Elbe sandstone mountains. The colors of the mountains are given by their bizarre shape, formed under the influence of the "blowing effect", in addition, there are numerous historical monuments, including the most ancient and picturesque ones - the Bastei Bridge and the Königstein Fortress. The national park is very popular among all lovers of natural attractions and is one of the most visited parks in Germany.
The Saxon Switzerland National Park is located 125 km from Prague and 30 km from Dresden, so most of the tourists come to the park from these large cities. Often group tours are organized from Prague or Dresden excursion tours to Saxon Switzerland, but you can get to the park on your own. The infrastructure of the park itself is highly developed, it is convenient for people with various abilities to move around here, and climbing the mountains along specially designed routes will not be tiring.
Petr Meissner/Winterberg, Saxon Switzerland How to get to Saxon Switzerland from Prague
The most convenient way to get from Prague to Saxon Switzerland is by rented car. Travel time will take no more than 1 hour 20 minutes, and along the way you can see the picturesque natural places. Prague and the park are connected by highway No. E55. At Please note that you will have to cross the state border to enter the National Park, so check with the rental office if this requires an additional permit for the rental car.
You can also get to the park from Prague by public transport. The closest settlements to Prague are the resort villages of Rathen and Bad Schandau. By the way, if you wish, you can stay here longer, because the resorts offer climate and mineral therapy. Trains run from Prague to the Rathen Kurort and the town of Bad Schandau, to Bad Schandau - direct (about 2 hours on the way), to the Rathen resort - with a transfer (about 3 hours on the way). You can check the train schedule and buy tickets online on the website or OBB. From Rathen you can start your hiking trip to Saxon Switzerland, while from Bad Schandau you will have to use the local bus.
In addition, you can take a ready-made bus tour from Prague to the park. Bus and walking tours are in Russian and last a total of approximately 10 hours. Thanks to the tour you will be able to see all the most Beautiful places natural park, including an observation deck on the Elbe River, while no transfers are required, as is the case with public transport. The tour can be found on site or booked in advance at specialized services, such as
and others similar.
How to get to Saxon Switzerland from Dresden
Getting to Saxon Switzerland is even easier from Dresden. Direct trains run between Dresden and the Rathen or Bad Schandau resorts, the travel time is only half an hour. Trains run every hour throughout the day. You can check the train schedule and buy tickets online on the website . Next, from the Rathen resort station, you need to go to the pier, buy tickets for the local ferry across the Elbe (travel time is about 5 minutes).
Once on the other side of the Elbe, you will see the picturesque Elbe Mountains right in front of you, the hiking routes of which will lead you to their summit. In the park, you should move around, focusing on the signs, they are placed almost everywhere, and it is difficult to get lost here. In addition, there are a lot of tourists in the park almost at any time of the year (in winter, during snowfalls, the park may be closed).
Thomas Quine/Panorama of the Elbe River Where to stay in Saxon Switzerland
The National Park "Saxon Switzerland" is quite extensive, there are many hiking trails that are enough for more than one day. If you plan to stay here longer, then it will be most convenient to stay in one of the nearest settlements not to return to Dresden or Prague. The nearest towns to the park are the resorts of Rathen (closer, within walking distance) and Bad Schandau (further, you need to get there by bus or train). Both resorts are quite intimate, traditional half-timbered architecture is presented here and there is all the infrastructure necessary for recreation.
So, for example, you can stay in the Rathen resort in hotels Elbiente 4* , Elbschlosschen 4* , Amselgrundschlossen 3*. The advantage of hotels is their location - in the center of the resort, as well as the presence of restaurants and indoor pools on site. You can stay in rooms of various sizes. As a rule, Wi-Fi in the hotels of the resort is provided free of charge, and there are no problems in finding free parking if you travel by car.
In Bad Schandau, you can find an even larger list of accommodations, since the town is considered a thermal spa. Several thermal complexes specializing in the treatment and restoration of various diseases are located here at once. Bad Schandau is a year-round resort and is in stable demand among tourists. You can stay in Bad Schandau in hotels Steiger Ban Schandau 4* , Parkhotel Bad Schandau 4* , Elbhotel Bad Schandau 3*and others. A complete list of accommodation options in Bad Schandau can be found on the website Booking.com.
Torsten Maue/Bad Schandau What to see in Saxon Switzerland
The Saxon Switzerland National Park is extremely rich in sights. They are based on Elbe sandstone mountains, having a peculiar shape, which, in turn, was created by nature itself over many millennia by blowing and erosion. Landscape national park very varied. On specially laid routes, you can see not only the mountain range, but also fabulous forests overgrown with boxwood, waterfalls, as well as some historical sights, such as Königstein fortress and old bastei bridge, which connects the mountain peaks of the same name, the highest in the park.
Allan Grey/Resort Rathen Inside the park, there are many hiking trails designed for different levels of training and different time. The most popular route is the ascent to Mount Bastei with an inspection of the bridge of the same name, as well as a route to Fortress Königstein. Both places are extremely picturesque, as they are located on the edge of rocky cliffs. Both the bridge and the fortress offer panoramic views of the mountains, the Elbe River and Rathen.
In addition to the Bastei mountain itself with an ancient bridge and the Königstein fortress, you can also see other sights on the territory of Saxon Switzerland. In particular, they include valleys, waterfalls, forests, canyons and caves. If you want to get away from popular routes, then the attention of travelers also deserves Lichtenhain Falls, Stolpen fortress, Kushtal rock gate, as well as "path of artists" with the most picturesque viewpoints.
superscheeli/Bad Schandau It is worth noting that the entrance to the Saxon Switzerland National Park is free. Only ferry services across the Elbe and entrance tickets to the Königstein fortress are paid (8-10 euros depending on the time of year).
In general, we can say that the Saxon Switzerland National Park is a great alternative for a day trip from Prague or Dresden. It is here that you can “change” urban landscapes for natural ones and enjoy some of the most amazing views in Europe. In addition, there are all the opportunities to stay in the scenery of nature for as long as possible - in the immediate vicinity there are resorts Rathen and , which also offer many opportunities for leisure.
Saxon Switzerland and Dresden are frequent day trips from Prague, both popular destinations with travelers. About, , On a note :
Going on a trip to Europe, do not forget to take out a travel insurance policy, which is mandatory already at the stage of applying for a tourist visa. You can take out insurance on your own without leaving your home. For this, there are special services, such as , other. You can buy a policy online and then print it on a regular printer.
Photo at the beginning of the article: Bernd Thaller
Bohemian and Saxon Switzerland, Königstein fortress and Bastei. Bohemian and Saxon Switzerland beautiful place Ore mountains and amazing nature are everywhere. Millions of people conquered by the views of Saxon Switzerland are frequent guests of these places.
Bohemian and Saxon Switzerland is a picturesque place of the Ore Mountains and amazing nature is everywhere. Millions of people conquered by the views of Saxon Switzerland are frequent guests of these places. Climbers, athletes and tourists explore the national park every day with many gorges, rocks, amazing flora and rare fauna. Surely the word Bastei is familiar to you! 305 m. height viewing platforms and amazing bridge. More than one generation has been fascinated by these places. Since the 18th century, tourists have besieged these places of Saxon Switzerland. Alexander Scriabin, while in Germany, dedicated a prelude written by him to these places. The prelude is called Bastei.
How the tour goes:
Group gathering time at 07:50 Wenceslas Square, At the monument to St. Wenceslas on horseback. Departure at 08:00. Travel time 1.5 hours. A professional guide in Russian works with the group on the bus. Arrival in Saxon Switzerland to the Königstein Fortress, where you will have a tour of the fortress and a sightseeing tour with a visit to the military history museum of the fortress, the fortress prison, the so-called Saxon Bastille, the garrison church, the casemate and much more. Transfer to Bastei (40 min.). Walk along the Bastei with a visit to the ruined ancient fortress of Ratenburg with extraordinary views of Saxon Switzerland. Free time 3 hours with the opportunity to have lunch in a restaurant with views of the Elbe and Saxon Switzerland. Free time until 16:30. Arrival in Prague at Wenceslas Square at 19.00. The duration of the trip is 11 hours. Entrance tickets: Königstein Fortress - 10 euros Bastei Rocks - free of charge (attendance to these objects is optional)
