Kefalonia- the largest of all the Greek islands of the Ionian Sea. To the north of it is about. Lefkada, to the east is the famous Ithaca, the birthplace of Homer’s Odysseus, and to the south is about. Zakynthos The highest points of Kefalonia are Mount Enos and Rudi (1627 m and 1130 m respectively), its total area is 671 km².

The first mentions of the local inhabitants, the Cephalonians, are found in Homer’s poem “The Illiad”. In that distant era, their lands were part of the state of Odysseus. In subsequent periods of history, many conquerors visited the island. Its lands were dominated by the Romans, Byzantines, Normans, Turks, Venetians, French and English. And only in 1864 it finally became part of Greece.

The natural beauty of Kefalonia amazes you at first sight. The greenery of the mountain slopes covered with coniferous trees and the riot of colors of flowers that can be seen in every corner of the island are harmoniously combined here.

If you wish, you can travel around Kefalonia all year round, visiting a new place every day - after all, there are 365 villages! Each of them boasts something unusual, but all the villages are united by traditional Greek architecture, an abundance of greenery and flowers, which local residents love to decorate balconies, courtyards and building facades with.

Unfortunately, the powerful earthquake of 1953 also left its mark on the island. Many houses were destroyed, including magnificent buildings from the Venetian period. However, there is a lot to see in Kefalonia: modern architecture complements the appearance of cities and towns, and lush gardens still delight the eyes of visitors.

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Sights of Kefalonia

Monastery St. Andrew's And Church of Panagia Languvarda– the most interesting sights of Kefalonia that survived the earthquake. The monastery is notable for the fact that it houses a unique relic - part of the right foot of the Apostle Andrew from the monastery. There is also a museum here, where Byzantine icons and church vestments are displayed.

An interesting story is connected with Church of Panagia Languvarda, which is located in the village of Markopoulo. According to legend, during the period of Byzantine rule, pirates landed on the island. In order to save the nuns of the local monastery, the Mother of God turned them into small snakes. Since then, every year on the day of the Dormition of the Virgin Mary (August 15), many snakes with crosses appear in the village. The parishioners catch them and bring them to the icon “Theotokos of the Serpent”. People believe that if you apply a snake to a sore spot or even just hold it in your hands, you can be healed of ailments. Naturally, on this day hundreds of pilgrims come to Markopoulo to see the miracle with their own eyes.

While vacationing in Kefalonia, you can visit other equally wonderful places:

• Unique underground Melissani cave lake, formed as a result of an earthquake
• Drogariti Cave at a depth of 44 meters, which is about 150 million years old
• The highest mountain reserve of the Ionian Islands Enos(1628 meters).
• Asos Fortress, built at the beginning of the 17th century
• Mycenaean period domed tomb of Zanatu, whose burials scientists date back to 1400-1000 BC.
• Ruins of a Roman villa, on the walls of which magnificent mosaics have been preserved

Beaches of Kefalonia

Among the beaches of Kefalonia, it is difficult to give preference to just one, because every corner of the island has a unique and charming atmosphere in its own way. But there are several world-famous beaches that visitors to the island try to visit first.

Ammes. A small, calm beach covered with golden, fine-grained sand, located in the village of Svoronata. A good bonus: there is an airport nearby.

Antisamos. The beach is located in a bay near the town of Sami, not far from the main port, and is rightfully considered one of the most beautiful not only in Kefalonia, but throughout Greece. And it’s not surprising: here the green slopes of the mountains approach the crystal clear water, forming amazing idyllic landscapes.

Makris Gialos. This beach is known for the best infrastructure on the island: there are cafes, snack bars and restaurants, you can rent umbrellas, sun loungers and all the necessary equipment for relaxing on the water. Every year Makri Gialos is awarded the Blue Flag, an international sign of quality.

Platys Gialos. This beach is part of the same coastline as Makris Gialos and is also well maintained and awarded the Blue Flag. But it is Platis Gialos that tourists call the Greek Riviera. Pines, flowers and other greenery form the special charm and charm of this stretch of coast.

Myrtos. A large number of tourists come to the island. Kefalonia is precisely for seeing the world famous Myrtos beach. It looks especially impressive from the heights of the surrounding rocks - a strip of snow-white sand with an incoming azure wave beckons you to go down the mountain serpentine and relax on the seashore.

Xi. Xi Beach, located near the town of Lixouri, is interesting for its unusual yellow-red sand. It is believed that the local clay has healing properties, so many vacationers smear themselves with it and thus take sunbathing. The descent into the water on Xi is gentle and shallow, so the beach is preferred by tourists with children. There are places to eat and relax - there are many eateries, hotels and apartments in the beach area. Xi is also awarded the Blue Flag for Quality.

Rock. The sandy beach of Skala is one of the widest and longest (about 3 km) on the island. It is located on the territory of the city of the same name, so all the amenities of civilization are at hand.

Kefalonia Island Map

Photo: Mouzenidis Travel

Kefalonia - the island of seafarers, an island of beaches where nymphs gather and miracles happen. The island got its name from the hero Cephalus from ancient Greek mythology.

Kefalonia is the largest island in the group of seven Ionian islands. It is located between the islands of Zakynthos and Lefkada almost in the center of the Ionian Sea. The area of ​​the island of Kefalonia is 671 square meters. km, and the length of its coastline stretches for 250 km.

Since May 2013 to the island of Kefalonia started for the first time direct weekly charter flights from Moscow, which together with the existing ones charters from St. Petersburg making the island of Kefalonia more accessible to tourists from Russia. Kefalonia is connected by air (30 minutes) and ferry (1.5 hours) connections.

Complex tours Zakynthos – Kefalonia are in particular demand for holidays on the islands of Greece, because you can fly to one island and fly back from your vacation from another. The islands complement each other, and the impressions from your tourist trip will be twice as great.

Holidays on the Island of Kefalonia in Greece.

At first glance, Kefalonia is a mountainous and harsh island. As you move along the serpentine road leading along the coast, landscapes of amazing fabulous beauty open up around every turn: a sea of ​​incredible blue, framed by rocky bays with beaches, and green islands of seaside villages. Vineyards, myrtle and olive groves with trembling leaves of trees emitting an almost metallic sound, as well as distinctive coastal towns with yachts and small fishing boats moored at the embankments, complete the landscape picture of the island of Kefalonia.

The island of Kefalonia captivates travelers with grape valleys, slopes with cypress alleys and pine air. Kefalonia immerses tourists in an atmosphere of relaxation and gives joy! The hospitality and cordiality of the Greek residents towards the Russians proves that there is an invisible spiritual connection between the two countries.

Holidays on the island of Kefalonia are distinguished by their regularity and tranquility.

Cities and resorts about. Kefalonia.

The capital of the island of Kefalonia is city ​​of Argostoli. 10 km from the capital there is an international airport that receives flights from Athens and charter flights.

The city of Argostoli was rebuilt after the devastating earthquake of 1953 with a magnitude of 7.2 on the Richter scale. Today modern life is bustling here, and at night there is also a holiday “party” in discos, clubs and bars.

Patron of the Island of Kefalonia – Saint Gerasim, who lived as a hermit in the Katavotres cave 2.5 km from the monastery near Argostoli.

Ferry services operate from the main port of Argostoli, as well as Sami, Poros and Fiskado.

Sami is the second port of the island and the main gate for ferries from Italy, Patras, Astakos and Lefkas. Port Sami became the main filming location for the film “Captain Corelli’s Mandolin” with the participation of N. Cage and P. Cruz.

The main resort towns of the island of Kefalonia: Skala, Lixouri, Lassi.

The beach season on the island of Kefalonia lasts from May to mid-October. The highest summer temperature of +35C occurs in August.

Beaches on the island of Kefalonia are presented for every taste: from “wild” and secluded to noisy with developed tourist infrastructure.

The best beaches of Kefalonia island.

• Myrtos is the most beautiful and photographed white sand and pebble beach in Greece with great depth of sea. It is among the top 10 best beaches on the planet;
• Xi is a shallow beach with dense red sand, framed by limestone cliffs with healing blue clay;
• Katelios – long sandy beach;
• Makris Gialos and Platis Gialos (4 km from the capital Argostoli);
• Antisamos – near the port of Sami;
• Petani Beach;
• Skala Beach is a long sandy beach near the town of Skala.

More than 20 beaches in Kefalonia have their own names, many of which have been awarded the Blue Flag for cleanliness.

Hotels on the island Kefalonia.

Apartments and villas, small family hotels and 4* and 5* luxury hotels make up a significant part of the hotel map of the island of Kefalonia.

The best hotels for all categories of tourists: Cyprotel Kefalonia Garden Village 4*, Porto Scala Hotel Village 4*, Mediterranee 4*, Cephalonia Palace Hotel 4*, Utopia Resort & SPA 5*, Appolonion Resort & SPA 5*, White Rocks Hotel & Bungalows 5*.

Family holiday with children It’s better to spend it at the Ionian Sea Hotel and Aguapark 3*, where the SOLnechny Krug club has been created and animators-educators work.

Sights of the island of Kefalonia.

• Argostoli. Archaeological and ethnographic museums and an ancient multi-arch bridge;
• Mounts Enos (1627 m) and Rudi (1130 m) are the natural attractions of the island. They are covered with a relict species of dark green “black spruce” trees, which grows only here. The Enos mountain range is a national reserve with an area of ​​1973 hectares;
• The resort village and port of Agia Efimia is a holiday destination for diving and yachting enthusiasts;
• Lixouri. Jacob's Palace with a library, ruins of ancient Pali;
• Fiscardo is a fishing harbor with ancient architecture, the only one not damaged by the 1953 earthquake;
• Melissana is a cave on the lake, which can only be accessed from a boat;
• Drongarati Cave (House of the Dragon) is one of the longest descents at 44 meters, which ends in a cave hall with excellent acoustics, where concerts can be held. The cave fascinates with stalactites up to 300 meters long;
• Assoc. Venetian fortress from the 16th century;
• Kastro is the medieval capital of the island.

What to bring as a gift from the island of Kefalonia? Great mood, video and photos! Honey, Robola wine, Feta cheese, quince and almond sweets and olive oil.

Myrtos Beach is one of the most beautiful beaches of the Ionian Sea, the calling card of Greece.

The beach has repeatedly won the title of best beach in Greece. This magnificent beach with crystal clear water and white sand is located on the west coast of Kefalonia. Myrtos has repeatedly received the EU blue flag, which indicates its cleanliness and safety.

Myrtos is known for its clear, light blue water, which in reality looks exactly like in the photographs of professional photographers.

The beach is all white pebbles. In the southern part there are several small caves opening out to the sea. Children need to be careful on Myrtos Beach - the depth starts abruptly and drags slightly upon entry.

Melissani Cave

The cave is surrounded by mysterious forests, and to the west of it there is a lake of the same name, part of which is hidden under stone arches. After the earthquake, the dome of the cave collapsed, and now sunlight penetrates inside. The rays penetrate the underground lake, and numerous tourists can spend hours admiring the blue, transparent water. A boat ride on the lake will be a memorable experience for a long time.

There are many ancient legends associated with the cave. According to one of them, the god Pan and nymphs used to live under stone arches. One of them, Melissa, fell in love with God and confessed her feelings to him, but he did not reciprocate her feelings. The poor nymph's heart could not withstand such a blow, and Melissa drowned herself in an underground lake. Since then, the cave bears her name.

What sights of Kefalonia did you like? Next to the photo there are icons, by clicking on which you can rate a particular place.

Monastery of St. Gerasim

One of the main attractions of the island of Kefalonia is the monastery of St. Gerasimos, founded in 1560 near the village of Valsamata. A small narrow cave-cell, located under the monastery building, and a huge plane tree, once planted by the saint himself, have survived to this day. During the strong earthquake of 1953, the monastery was significantly damaged, but was soon rebuilt. The main attraction of the monastery is the incorruptible relics of St. Gerasim. An interesting fact is that after the death of the saint, his body was exhumed twice, and each time it remained incorrupt. Every year on August 16, on the day of remembrance of St. Gerasim, a solemn service is held in the monastery, and the relics of the saint are carried over the infirm and sick.

In the cells of the monastery there are many icons, many of which were donated by local residents. There is also a narrow descent into the cave where the monk retired in the last years of his life. The monastery has a cozy, calm atmosphere; many tourists note that when leaving the monastery they feel spiritual harmony and balance.

Penati is a pebble beach surrounded by high mountains, located near the resort town of Lixouri.

This soft pebble beach is one of the favorite destinations for beach lovers.

The length of the beach is 600 meters.

Here you can enjoy the extraordinary beauty of its hilly surroundings and swim in the warm, clear blue water, which changes color to deep blue as the sun sets.

The shore is quite steep and in some places is equipped with an awning and sun umbrellas. Therefore, you can only move a short distance from the shore, since it is very deep here.

Not far from the beach you can visit two good restaurants.

Xi Beach

10 kilometers from Lixouri is the most amazing beach in all the Ionian Islands - Xi. It got its name from the bay, which is shaped like the letter X of the Greek alphabet. The total length of the beach is 4 kilometers and the width is 50 meters. There is one big road leading to it, which in front of the coast diverges into many small branches, each of which ends in different places on the beach.

Getting to Xi is very easy, you can use both taxis and public transport. On its outskirts there are a large number of cafes and restaurants where you can have a good time and have a snack. For those who don't want to spend a lot of time traveling to the beach, there are many hotels and villas located nearby.

When going here on vacation, be sure to take a camera with you, because you will definitely want to capture the unusually bright, rich, red-yellow sand and white clay rocks. There are umbrellas and sun loungers on the beach, which you can use absolutely free.

Lourdas Beach

Near the village of Lourdata, located on the southern side of the island of Kafalonia, there is a magnificent beach - Lourdas. It is secluded in the middle of huge mountains with lush green vegetation and crystal waterfalls. The beach is distinguished from others by its incredibly clean water and well-developed infrastructure. Small cafes with wonderful views and private hotels with all amenities are always at your service.

The beach is surrounded by dense vegetation consisting of olive trees, pine trees and cypress trees. Thanks to the local unique microclimate, a variety of tropical plants and orchards coexist on the coast. Be sure to visit the village of Lourdata, where you can see a large plane tree with an ancient bath located near it - Vkhash.

Lourdas Beach experiences strong winds most of the year. Despite this, tourists love it very much because of the unique exotic landscape and untouched original nature. There are few places where you can see the forest adjacent to the beach and wonderful, untouched by man, mountain landscapes.

Are you interested in knowing how well you know the sights of Kefalonia? .

Beach Skala

Skala Beach is one of the popular tourist beaches, which is located next to the fishing village of the same name on the southern tip of the island of Kefalonia.

The beautiful sandy beach is bordered by hills covered in dense bush and small rock formations. The water here is crystal clear. It is worth noting that in 2003 the beach received the Blue Flag.

On the main part of the beach there are umbrellas and sun loungers. Despite the high tourist activity, you can find a calm and secluded place if you walk a little further.

There is a water sports center on the beach. There is also the opportunity to take a boat ride with a transparent bottom to observe the underwater world. There is a bar in the central part of the beach. In the village itself you will find souvenir shops, taverns, restaurants and pubs.

The most popular attractions in Kefalonia with descriptions and photographs for every taste. Choose the best places to visit famous places in Kefalonia on our website.

15 best places in Kefalonia that are not in guidebooks

The island of Kefalonia is one of the most beautiful in Greece. Svetlana shared her impressions of her journey through it and talked about the places that she liked most. And we have designed this into an ideal vacation program that allows you to relax and see all the interesting things.

Greece. A unique country where the history of the ancient world is densely mixed with culinary traditions and winemaking, ancient ruins coexist perfectly with the Athenian Acropolis that has survived to this day.

It's no secret that in, like in any other touristically developed country, there are popular places that are on everyone's lips. Usually, the Greek titans of package holidays loom on the surface of the Russian-speaking traveler: Crete and the island of Thassos, the resorts of the Halkidiki peninsula and the monasteries of Meteora, the islands of Corfu, Rhodes and Santorini. Along with them, in Greece there is a huge number of not very popular, sometimes completely unknown to the general public, but no less amazing and beautiful places to relax. Since we are independent travelers, in most cases we don’t like overstaying tourist locations. That is why this time our choice fell on the Greek island of Kefalonia/Cephalonia, which is not particularly well-known in wide tourist circles.

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It is the largest of the Ionian islands in southwestern Greece and, as popular rumor goes, the greenest. We went to explore Kefalonia in the second half of September 2017.

Transport logistics

There are two ways to get to the island of Kefalonia - by air and by sea. There is an airport on the island, but there are no direct flights from Ukraine. Alternatively, you can fly to Kefalonia with a connection in Athens. But the most interesting option in terms of price and flight schedule for the dates we were looking for was offered by UIA, whose services we used. The logistics turned out to be as follows: a direct flight from Kyiv to Athens; we had a car booked in advance at the Athens International Airport Eleftherios Venizelos. We then transited along the upper tip of the Peloponnese peninsula on our way to the port of Kyllini, where ferry services to the Ionian islands of Zakynthos and Kefalonia start.

On the island of Kefalonia, apartments were also pre-booked for 10 nights in the village of Mousáta, 15 km from the capital of the island, Argostoli. In many Russian-language reports that I came across before the trip, tourists mainly admired the northern tip of the island or the western coast of Kefalonia. I liked the coastline in the southwest and southeast of the island more, although at that time I could only judge by photos on Google maps. Therefore, they chose housing closer to the desired beaches. During the 10 days we spent on the island, we managed to travel and see quite a lot. I won’t talk about those places that are widely circulated on the Internet. I will only focus on what really impressed us.

One of the closest to our “base” in Musata and, indeed, one of the best beaches in Kefalonia is Koroni Beach. It is located in the southwest of the island at the foot of a high mountain. This is a long unequipped beach, that is, you need to understand that it is conditionally wild, where you need to take a towel and sun umbrella with you. As a bonus, there are a minimum number of people on the beach. We came here several times at different times of the day, and invariably there were very few people there. In my humble opinion, Koroni beach is ideal for a romantic getaway and seeking inspiration: fine golden sand, smooth entry into the water, emerald waters of the Ionian Sea and a stunning panorama before your eyes.

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A little further up the mountainside above Koroni Beach we discovered another stunning place, Sesto Koroni Hill Bar - a wine bar with panoramic views. Amazing place, atmospheric. It would seem that everything is so simply done, sometimes from the simplest materials at hand, but the essence is in the sincere atmosphere and cordiality of the owners of the establishment (an English couple). Sesto Koroni is equally pleasant to be in during the day and in the evening, especially at sunset. The opening panorama is mesmerizing! Nothing superfluous, just the turquoise waters of the Ionian Sea and the neighboring island of Zakynthos stretching out in a light haze.

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Nearby you can also stop by for a tasting at the Melissinos Winery (one of the best wineries on the island), and we move further along the coast to the south of Kefalonia.

Next stop is Cape Mounda, the island's southernmost cape. An unusual landscape of the coast: the sandy beach smoothly turns into a powerful stone slab that goes far into the sea, and closer to the tip of the cape, rocks with bizarre weathering forms and hidden grottoes hang over the shore. From a high hill above Cape Mounda you can go down to a long, seemingly endless, deserted beach. Beautiful landscape... and space, space! And the same stunning wind that only happens at the extreme points of the earth.

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We get into the car again and drive further, moving to the southeast of the island. First we pass the lively village of Skala, and literally a few kilometers later we park the car near the next object of our interest, a bay with the poetic name Kato Lagadi. There are no landmarks or signs along the route, only a small spot along the road where the cars of those in the know are left... That’s right: the bulk of tourists are brought to the bay on yachts and boats by sea, so there are no signs along the road. But there is still a land passage to the bay. The trail and the descent to the sea are moderately extreme, but if you have at least minimal physical fitness and hiking experience, there will be no problems.

Kato Lagadi Bay is an amazing coastal landscape, a series of grottoes and tiny coves with small pebbles and a smooth entry into the water. Great place for snorkeling! It’s better to come in the morning, when the sun’s rays brightly illuminate everything around and the grotto-caves can be seen in all their glory. After lunch, the sun goes behind Mount Enos and the grottoes hide in the shadows. However, photographs speak louder than words:

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Our next point of interest is the famous Antisamos beach, one of the most beautiful beaches in Greece according to TripAdvisor. A quick note: we don't like public beaches by default. According to our version, an ideal beach is when there are minimal or no people on it, and there is also a minimum of tourist infrastructure. To be alone with nature is our main desire on vacation. In the case of Antisamos beach, this is a rare exception when we betrayed our principles. The beach is truly stunningly beautiful. First of all, the view! The view of the bay, deep and elongated like a fjord, and the neighboring island of Ithaca is indescribable. The legends and myths of ancient Greece, Homer's Iliad and Odyssey come to life before your eyes... and it is truly breathtaking just to see it with your own eyes! By the way, as local Greeks say, in the strait between Kefalonia and Ithaca, underwater there is an ancient city from the time of Odysseus. All that remains is to take their word for it. In general, on the island, quite a lot of reminders of Mycenaean culture (the period in the history of Greece from the 16th to the 11th centuries BC) and later periods have been preserved to this day, in particular the open-air museum Acropolis of Ancient Same (located high on the mountain above Antisamos beach, free entry).

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Antisamos beach is also unique in that it is usually completely calm. This is due to the fact that the bay in which the beach is located is “covered” from the sea by the mainland and the island of Ithaca, and from the land side it is reliably protected by an amphitheater of high mountains. And indeed, it has been verified experimentally that even when a serious storm broke out one day, the sea in Antisamos Bay was calm and comfortable for swimming. To be fair, it is worth noting that despite all the aesthetic beauty, the beach also has its drawbacks: there are quite large pebbles underfoot, and the depth starts literally from the shore, so this beach is not very suitable for families with small children. But if you are an esthete and your rich inner world is in dire need of new doses of earthly beauty, then Antisamos beach is at your service.

However, you won’t be satisfied with natural beauties alone, so we are going in search of Greek delicacies. Each country has its own signature dish or product - specialty. This is part of the gastronomic history and culture of a particular country, where culinary traditions are respected. In Greece, one of the most famous specialties is, of course, Greek yogurt. It is difficult to live without it in Hellas.

Our guesthouse neighbors, Italians, warmly recommended a place in Kefalonia where you should definitely have a Greek-style breakfast. What can I tell you, Italians know a lot about gourmet food! This is a real oasis... a very small open area, but placing and submitting an order, relaxed communication with the young and cheerful owner of the establishment - this is exactly that rare case when the memory of something is etched in the memory for a long time and over time is mentally savored with slight nostalgia.

Breakfast in the tiny and inconspicuous Myrtillo is worthy of a separate story. This is not only a positive charge and a full stomach, but also a real taste pleasure. We only stopped at Myrtillo for breakfast once on the way to Myrtos Beach (the Myrtillo cafe-shop is located on the main west coast highway, between two viewpoints at Myrtos Beach), but I really remember this place. Here you can buy local homemade and other only nature Greek specialties (honey, jam, jam, nuts) as souvenirs, and there is also a small open area with tables where you can eat.

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A proper Greek breakfast, like everything ingenious, is extremely simple. Greek yogurt, honey, tahini (sesame paste), nuts. You can also add seasonal fruits or homemade jam. It is not for nothing that, according to statistics, the Greek islands have the highest number of long-livers, because with delicious natural food you can afford to live healthily for many years.

If you come to Myrtillo ideally for breakfast, then for dinner it is advisable to climb higher into the mountains. For example, you can taste excellent young lamb near the resort town of Sami. Our destination is the mountain village of Poulata. The owner of the house where we rented an apartment told us about this place. In fact, this is an ordinary village in the mountains, which is notable only for the fact that the local specialty is excellently prepared here - young lamb meat. You can also try lamb, goat and other mixed grilled meats. But it is the rack of lamb on the coals that is the masterpiece of local Greek cuisine.

In the village of Poulata there is a popular tourist establishment “Rambolis Grill Lamb Reataurant”, where tourists are brought by buses after an excursion in the Melissani cave (this is the “calling card” of Kefalonia, which is located in the vicinity of the city of Sami). And very close to this restaurant there is a small family tavern, the name of which cannot be reproduced in Greek (look at the photo). You need to arrive in the evening, around 8 o'clock is ideal. Because at 7 o’clock in the evening the workers are just getting ready to receive guests, and at 9 there may no longer be any free places left. They work until late as long as there are visitors. It’s very tasty, the portions are impressive, the prices are reasonable, and the attitude towards guests is good-natured. The owners of the establishment welcome guests like a family, and the food and service are beyond praise!

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By the way, the basic principle for choosing catering places in Greece (however, this applies to many European countries). Many domestic tourists have stereotypical thinking about what a catering establishment (restaurant, cafe, pastry shop or coffee shop) should look like. How is it usually with us? That's right: a cafe-restaurant will be cool and tasty if it looks at least decent: a beautiful interior, fabric tablecloths and napkins, expensive dishes, etc. This is a delicious restaurant. Tasty and expensive, there’s no other way. As you understand, the rules of “appearance” of taverns, familiar to compatriots, do not apply in Greece at all. In Greece, taverns focus primarily on the quality and taste of food. That is, if the food is not tasty, then you can do nothing further - there are no people in this tavern, and there never will be. Then the second most important thing is the view from the tavern, and only after that, almost lastly, is it about the design, beautiful dishes, napkins, etc.

Ask me, which tavern in Greece was most memorable and sank into your soul? The answer is simple: this is a tavern somewhere in the mountain wilderness or inconspicuous back streets of the old city, in a completely ordinary room, with the same ordinary ordinary people who cook and serve food. After all, it is the delicious food and friendly atmosphere that is remembered, not the well-trained waiters and original design. Although this also has the right to be, but definitely not in Greece.

It would be worth starting with the fact that in Greece you always need to pay attention to the sign of the establishment. It is extremely rare for a tavern to have “taverna” written in front of it in English; most likely, it will be written “restaurant” in English. But a restaurant is just that: a restaurant with all the attributes: waiters, white tablecloths, etc. Real restaurants in Greece are a rare phenomenon that you can only find in large cities, such as Athens or Thessaloniki, or in hotels. Their cuisine is also usually European. Therefore, the “restaurant” sign is a deliberate substitution of concepts for foreign tourists. If you want to try authentic Greek cuisine, you need a tavern with its understated simplicity and "family" feel.

When your stomach is full, you usually want more spectacles. Or if you suddenly get bored from a measured rest, and there is a desire to dilute the languor of life, you can go to the north of the island, to the small town of Fiskardo. There is a large marina for yachts, around which everything is touristic for the discerning public. In short - pretentious, expensive, cocktail bars, taverns and restaurants. Everything your heart desires, for every taste and budget. In Fiskardo, in addition to the ancient architecture, I remember the impudent and not at all prim young Englishmen, blond Scandinavians, cheerful and loud Italians, drunk and noisy Czechs... the marina in Fiskardo is large, the audience is motley and colorful. You won't get bored, that's for sure! But for a relaxing holiday, it is better to choose accommodation in the immediate vicinity; you should not base yourself in Fiskardo itself.

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Meanwhile, we go around the northern part of Kefalonia and smoothly move to the western coast of the island, closer to the inaccessible rocky bays and the piercing blue Ionian Sea, well known from publications in glossy magazines. The first thing your eye catches from the height of the main route is a long cape protruding into the sea. The view is incredible, so it’s impossible to just drive past! This is Assos - perhaps one of the most beautiful and spectacular places in Kefalonia.

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Assos is a small cozy town located on an isthmus between the mainland and a peninsula crowned by a Venetian fortress. The town itself is miniature and very touristy, which is not surprising in view of its special external attractiveness, and in terms of the number of idly wandering tourists it can easily compete with the pretentious Fiscardo. Assos looks equally great from afar and up close! Houses with brightly colored facades stretch up the slope of a small sheltered bay. On the narrow cobblestone streets, large tubs and tall clay pots with decorative and wildly flowering plants are everywhere, which I especially like in the south. In the marina, fishing boats and small yachts sway rhythmically, taverns with tables along the water, alluring smells of cooking food spread, and then spicy aromas excite the receptors. The colorful reality is pleasing to the eye, and the emotions are overwhelming inside... a real Mediterranean idyll.

If you take the time to climb the wide winding path paved with marble to the top of the peninsula to the Venetian fortress (Castle of Assos of the 15th century), then you will be rewarded for your work and perseverance - the views are grandiose!

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We move further along the western coast of Kefalonia. In this part of the island the main road is laid at a decent height. At a decent height along steep cliffs! I don’t know how anyone perceives reality, but I am always impressed when a Man masters the mountains, “taming” them to his needs. Just imagine: along the western coast of Kefalonia, the road is in some places carved out of huge stone blocks, which causes genuine surprise and, of course, respect for the people who built it. And now driving along ideal mountain roads is a real pleasure, despite the endless turns. After all, behind each of them a new, unique view opens up, and you want to make stops as often as possible to capture this beauty as a memory. But, alas, there are very few suitable places for this. The track has two lanes, fences on both sides, closed blind turns...

Following the settlement of Assos is the famous Greek beach of Myrtos and one of the few equipped areas along the route where you can stop. This is the Myrthos Beach Viewpoint. There are not enough words to express the fullness of feelings and emotions when you see piercing blue in real life!

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Myrtos Beach, along with the Melissani Cave, is the calling card of Kefalonia. We did not go down to the beach itself; according to reviews, it is not very convenient for swimming. It is usually very stormy here and strong winds often blow, due to the fact that the beach “looks” into the open sea. There are large pebbles on the shore, and the depth begins immediately from the shore. But from the outside, especially from a bird’s eye view, this is a dream beach.

Further along the western coast of Kefalonia, between Myrtos beach and the village of Zola, there are several more moderately beautiful beaches and lagoons, but we go further - to a “secret” bay. Lost in the mountains at the north-western tip of the Paiki Peninsula, Atheras Bay is striking in its beauty at first sight. In a carefully closed bay, with a cape protruding far into the sea, everything is perfectly suited for swimming and relaxing - moderately secluded, there are small pebbles on the shore, a clean bottom and a calm sea. And the view is amazing, this is very important!

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I cannot ignore the capital of Kefalonia - Argostoli. This is the main transport hub of the island; most hotels and large supermarkets are concentrated around the capital, and the promenade along the coastal part of the city will bring a lot of pleasure. The city center and the beautiful embankment, lined with multi-colored pebbles framed by date palms, are interesting. And it doesn’t matter whether it’s morning, afternoon or evening – there is something to do in the capital at any time of the day.

The city of Argostoli spreads widely in the shape of an amphitheater along the shore of a large lagoon. There is an airport close to the capital and for fans of spotting this is a place of power. In addition to a large selection of beaches, there are several noteworthy places in the vicinity of Argostoli. For example, a viewpoint on the edge of the cape, the active lighthouse of St. Theodora (Agion Theodoron), better known as the Fanari lighthouse, and nearby the Katavothres Sea Mill watermill is located. Actually, tourists usually fly through this section (between Argostoli and the lighthouse) in cars without stopping. But in vain! From Argostoli, a path stretches along the sea through a natural park, where along the way there are small coves suitable for swimming, pine trees, cypress trees and juniper trees, thanks to which you can breathe in the heady Mediterranean pine air. I can’t even believe that there are such quiet, relatively deserted places very close to the noisy capital of the island.

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The mill, located near the lighthouse, is a very unusual place. It is not so much the engineering structure that is interesting, but Katavotres, a unique geological phenomenon of the island of Kefalonia. Usually on an island the river flows into the sea, but on the island of Kefalonia the opposite happens. Streams of sea water fall into underwater karst crevices near the village of Katavothres (on the outskirts of Argostoli), then they pass under the island from west to east and appear on the surface in the village of Karavomilos (near the town of Sami), where they then flow into the cave lake Melissani.

In 1963, geologists from an Austrian university dropped 160 kg of paint in the area of ​​the underground tunnels of the village of Katavotres, and 15 days later traces of this paint appeared in the water on the eastern side of the island. The Englishman Stevens was the first observer to describe this unusual phenomenon. He decided to use the energy of the water that was lost in the “catavotra” (in the crevice) and built a water mill there, which we can still see today.

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What else is noteworthy in Argostoli? Every day in the morning and evening on the embankment you can take part in a free “attraction” - feeding sea turtles. One day we specially arrived early in the morning at the Argostoli embankment to see the Caretta-caretta turtles up close. It happens like this: at 9 am, fishermen with their morning catch moor at the pier on the embankment, where the first buyers of fresh fish are already waiting for them. A spontaneous mini-fish market is formed. The fish for the buyers are immediately cut up and the offal is thrown into the water right there. Turtles come to them to feast on them. If you see crowds of people on the embankment, that means turtles are there.

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And, concluding the topic of Argostoli, I would like to note that it is in the capital that active tourist life is in full swing. Here is the brightest evening promenade and, in principle, only in this place was nightlife noticed. In addition, Argostoli has a huge selection of establishments: taverns, restaurants, nightclubs, cocktail bars, pizzerias. And, of course, the Greek version of fast food “giradiko” and “souvladzidiko” is widely represented (the first is called after the dish “gyros”, and the second takes its name from “souvlaki” - these are small kebabs). In terms of cuisine, Argostoli has everything your heart desires, for every taste. We dined here several times in various establishments, but most of all I remember the family restaurant of Greek cuisine, Casa Grec, lost in the narrow streets of the old city.

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From Argostoli you can conveniently and fairly quickly move to the Paliki Peninsula. You can get there by land, but it’s much more comfortable to get there by water. The Argostoli-Lixouri ferry, which departs every half hour from the port of one capital of the island to another and back (Lixouri is the capital of the Paliki Peninsula), takes on board both passengers and cars.

The gathering point for vacationers on the Paiki Peninsula is the popular “red” Xi Beach. We deliberately skip it and head a little further, our goal is neighboring Koutala Beach. Most of the beaches on the coast of the Paiki Peninsula are known for their characteristic and expressive combination: a thin strip of bright red sand on the shore and high clay cliffs (this clay is said to have a cosmetic effect and can be smeared with it like in a spa - I can only take their word for it, we haven't tried). It looks very beautiful in sunny weather!

The sea is shallow and calm. Quiet, secluded, practically no people. In my opinion, it is also a great place to relax with small children - shallow, warm sea, sandy.

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On the largest island of the Ionian archipelago - Kefalonia (modern Greek name Kefalonia) - there are real cities and resorts. Like its neighbors, Cephalonia suffered greatly from the Germans and Italians in World War II, and the island's transition from one occupier to another after Italy's surrender in 1943 was marked by a massacre in which over 5,000 Italian troops were killed by invading German forces. These events are described by Louis de Bernieres in the novel “Captain Corelli Mandolin” (Louis de Bernieres, Captain’s Corelli Mandoline).

Until the end of the 1980s, the island was not developed by tourism - partly, apparently, because adapting Kefalonia to the market seemed to be a difficult undertaking. The 1953 earthquake literally razed all the towns and villages of the island, and the lost masterpieces of Venetian architecture were perhaps the only graceful touch enlivening the harsh mountainous landscape. The delay in tourism can be explained in a simpler way: they say that the Cephalinians have a very firmly established reputation as intractable, stubborn, proud people, who are also eccentric, if not foolish.

However, there is something to attract guests: the beaches of Kefalonia are no worse than their rivals on other islands of the archipelago, and the local (admittedly expensive) wine – dry white Robola – is also famous. Fortunately, the merciful heavens sent down the “Corelli factor” and the island has not yet become too crowded with visitors and too expensive, although there are trends. The island itself seems ready to absorb a huge number of people, and it won’t get crowded anyway, but the majestic nature speaks for itself: steep slopes and slopes reach their maximum expression in Mount Enos (1632 meters above sea level), declared a national park.

There is only one airport on the island, information about which is given in the article about. The bus service is not very convenient, but the schedule is maintained, and with transfers you can get to almost any point on the island. The main routes connect the main tourism centers with Argostoli - Sami, Fiskardo, Skala and Poros. The route connecting Sami with the resort of Ayia-Efimia, where many vacationers are drawn on vouchers, is also convenient.

Motorcyclists are advised to be extremely careful: the paths, especially those off the beaten path, can be very difficult, although the highways and highways along the main routes are now mostly paved. Please note that small engines often cannot cope with steep road inclines. The island is connected by ferry service to many island and mainland ports: from Fiskardo ferries go to Ithaca, from Sami to Ithaca, Astakos and, from Argostoli and Poros to the mainland, to Kyllini, and from the port of Pessada to. Almost every year during high season there is a direct ferry service between Sami and one of the Italian ports, usually Brindisi, but this route is operated by only one company.

Greek town of Sami and surroundings

Ships mostly land at the large and functional port of Sami, built and then rebuilt on the southern edge of the strait separating Cephalonia from Ithaca, roughly where ancient Sami once stood. In the Homeric era, the capital of the island was in Sami, and Cephalonia itself was part of the sea kingdom of Ithaca. Today, everything has changed in the power ladder, and on the contrary, it is considered a quiet backwater.

Ferries link the city with Patras, many more ferries go to Ithaca, and there is also a direct (though unpredictable) connection with, so Sami is clearly poised for a boom in the near future. The long sandy beach surrounding the bay is quite good, and 2 kilometers behind ancient Sami on the beautiful pebble beach of Andisamis you can have a cool drink at the Mojito Beach Bar.

There are three large hotels in town: the friendly Athina Beach is the better of the two at the far end of the beach, essentially in Karavomylos, while the Pericles, with extensive grounds, two swimming pools and sports facilities, is more than 1 kilometer from the road to Argostolion. The best option for a mid-class hotel is the convenient Kastro on the waterfront. Close on his heels is Melissani behind the ferry dock. Camping Sami - Karavomilos Beach - has 300 shaded sites, a tavern, a shop, a bar and access to the beach. There is no doubt that it is much better than its competitors (there are two official sites on the island for those who like to spend the night in the fresh air).

There are few taverns outside the waterfront: the best in the center are Mermaid and Faros, which serve decent meat and vegetarian dishes, including the famous meat pie (a local delicacy). It's much quieter at Dionysos, which offers fresh seafood at low prices and live music on weekends. Obviously, some pub must bear the name "Captain's Corelli" - it, together with Aqua Marina, makes up a couple of the most beloved evening bars, and you can have breakfast or treat yourself to ice cream at the "other captain" while at the club Asteria bouzouki is a fun night out. Rent a motorcycle on the embankment, in “Sami Center”, and rent cars in a reliable local company “Island”.

• Drogarati and Melissani caves on the island of Kefalonia

Another reason to stay in Sami is the city’s proximity to the caves of Drogarati (5 kilometers towards Argostoli) and Melissani (3 kilometers to the north, direction towards Agia Efimia). Drogarati (April-October daily 9:00-20:00) has impressive stalagmites, and on occasion it serves as a concert hall: the acoustics are excellent, Maria Callas herself sang in the cave. Melissani (daily 8:00-19:00) is partly flooded with saline waters, which, surprisingly, seep up from an underground fissure, and this crack runs through the entire island to a point near Argostoli.

There - the place is called Katavotres - the sea constantly flows into the underground tunnel, and before the earthquake of 1953 that destroyed everything, the current rotated water mills, but not river ones, but sea ones. Glowing paint in the cave marks the water level in the cave - current and previous, before 1953. The play of light leaking through the collapsed roof of the cave creates bizarre patterns and shadows, and there is always a rare fog in the air, like a haze, made up of water droplets.

• Fishing harbor of Agia Efimia on the island of Kefalonia

The friendly little fishing harbor of Ayia-Efimia, 9 kilometers north of Sami, although it has been chosen by tour operators who bring vacationers here on tour packages, there are no large construction projects or other “development” here. There are two significant flaws. The first is the beaches, or rather, the lack thereof: the largest, called, in no way mockingly, “paradise”, Paradise (Greek name paradisos), is a measly 20 meters of small pebbles, although there are other coves to the south. The second is poor transport links (only 2 bus services daily, to Sami and Fiskardo). But accommodation is very good, there are two nice hotels - Boulevard Pyllaros, but prices are lower in Moustakis, and Yerasimos Raftopoulos offers apartments.

Paradise Beach Tavern, further along the headland past the harbor, offers island cuisine at reasonable prices. Pergola and To Steki Tou Kalofaga also prepare dishes typical of the island, as well as those that are common throughout the country. As you would expect, the cafe-bar, where filmmakers and actors whiled away their time during the filming of the film, was renamed Captain’s Corelli; it’s better to have breakfast at Strawberry. Nightclub Paranoia - 700 meters from the village, in the direction of Fiskardo. And if you are traveling on your own, know that between Ayia Efimia and Sami in the Ayia Paraskevf tavern above the bay of the same name you will be treated to famous spaghetti with pickled mussels, and the places around are majestic.

South-eastern part of the island of Kefalonia

Traveling from Sami to the southeast became much easier when they finished building the asphalt highway to Poros and launched a bus on the Sami-Poros route (2 trips daily). Poros is connected to the resort of Skala in the south by another paved road along the coast.

Poros was once one of the island's first resorts, and its modern appearance suggests that the place has seen better days. There are few hotels and high-rise buildings with apartments for visitors in Kefalonia - something rare, even unique; the poor promenade and unsightly pebble beach do not improve the impression. But from Poros there is a ferry to the Peloponnesian port of Kyllini, which is worth keeping in mind in case the Sami-Patra route is not suitable.

Actually, the resort is built around two bays: the first, where there are more tourists, and the current harbor a few minutes' walk behind the cape. There are many rooms and apartments for rent, and there are also hotels. It is best to stay at the cozy Santa Irina hotel at the crossroads away from the sea, and the neighboring Odysseus Palace often offers good discounts. Among the travel agencies, Poros Travel at the ferry dock also helps with accommodation, and not only sells ferry tickets and rents cars.

Bars and restaurants are mostly concentrated along the main promenade. The Fotis Family Tavern has good food and a pleasant environment, and the Mythos Bar has internet access. The mentioned road, leaving Poros, makes an arc of 12 kilometers along the coast and comes to Skala at the southern tip of the island. The route is pleasant and there are almost no buildings along the way, not counting the church 3 kilometers before the Rock near the ruins of a Roman temple.

As if in contrast to Poros, the resort of Skala consists of low buildings among large pine trees that literally hang over a good sandy beach. In the 1950s, near the rental rooms called Golden Beach Palace, a Roman villa was excavated (daily 10:00-14:00 and 17:00-20:00, longer in summer; free) and some mosaics. Many adherents of Skala do not leave the resort even when Poros closes until the next season, so it is difficult to find an overnight stay almost all year round. The owners of the Dionysus Rooms also offer studios and apartments, Dionysus Rooms, a block south of the main street, and Etam Travel Service also helps with accommodation.

Among the hotels, the small cozy Captain’s Hotel on a street shifted to the east, parallel to the main one, is convenient and friendly, and the more expensive Tara Beach hotel offers rooms and separate bungalows in a lush garden on the edge of the beach. There are many taverns in Skala: The Old Village and Flamingo offer the usual range of Greek and European dishes in a pleasant atmosphere, the coastal Paspalis serves fish and home cooking, Sunrise serves not only Greek cuisine, but also pizza. It's a good idea to have a drink at the Veto cocktail bar or at the seaside restaurant-bar Stavento, accompanied by the most fashionable music.

• From Skala to Ludrata

Some of the island's best sandy beaches are located near Skala, below the village of Radzakli and around the growing resort of Kato Katelios, where there are already hotels: the fancy Odyssia and the almost completely German-occupied Galini Resort, which also offers good apartments for four. Rooms and apartments can be found at your local CBR Travel office. Of the half a dozen local restaurants and cafes on the embankment, the Blue Sea tavern is praised for the freshness and good quality of the fish, and people go primarily to the Cozy bar for drinks. The coast around Kato Katelios is the main breeding ground for loggerheads in Kefalonia. Therefore, resting and spending the night in the open air are prohibited here.

The village of Markopoulo in the island's hinterland is sometimes claimed to be the birthplace of the multilingual explorer Marco Polo, but today it is better known as the site of the outlandish "snake rite" performed annually on the Assumption of Our Lady, August 15th. The church in which the ritual is performed stands on the site of an ancient monastery. According to legend, the monastery was once attacked by pirates, and the nuns began to pray to be turned into snakes, just so as not to be captured. It is believed that their prayers were answered, and the annual “return” of many small and harmless snakes is perceived by the villagers as a good omen, promising good luck.

And since it is unlikely that nature is ready to observe with such precision a schedule not invented by it, a suspicion arises: are the (individual, of course) village holy fathers keeping an inconspicuous snake nursery? It is impossible to approach the shore until the village of Vahata, where rooms are rented out and restaurants operate, but there is little point in staying here, and turning downhill, after 2 kilometers you will find yourself at the Lourdata resort: on a 1 kilometer long beach, small pebbles are mixed with imported sand. Adonis and Ramona offer rooms on the outskirts, on the access road, and the new Thomatos Apartments behind the beach also have studios with kitchens.

Vegetarian dishes are prepared at the Diamond Tavern under a plane tree in the tiny village square. Further, on the hill is Dionysus, where they serve food as you would expect in an ordinary tavern. On the beach itself, Patritsia is good if you want good, inexpensive fish, and Lorraine's Magic Hill offers quality food. Cafe Platanos is located outside the village. To get to another good beach, Trapezaki, you need to turn off at Mussata, which is west of Vahata; This is a very pleasant spit, with the only restaurant near a small pier.

West Bank and road to the north of Kefalonia

The road from Argostoli to Fiskardo is the most picturesque in the archipelago. After leaving the city, the road climbs the Eumorphia spurs, where you can turn inland to visit the modern Museum of Natural History (daily 9:00-13:00, and on Monday-Saturday another 18:00-20:00; 1.50 € ) in Davgata. After passing Agonas, the road continues to climb up the mountain, clinging to almost sheer cliffs, until it comes to the village of Divarata, where some rooms are rented, for example, in the Mina studios there are a couple of restaurants, and this is the starting point of the path to Myrtos beach. This path leads downhill - 4 kilometers along a road suitable for a car or motorcycle.

On the beach itself there is only a snack bar, but above and below this establishment there is a shore that makes an incredibly strong impression - there is no landscape that would touch all the senses even more strongly in the entire archipelago: a brilliant strip of amazingly white sand with pebbles. Only there is little shade, and at the height of the season there are a lot of people. After 6 kilometers there will be a turn to Asos; this original village clings to a small isthmus between the island and a huge hill, on top of which there are the ruins of an ancient fortification.

Accommodation is in short supply, so it's best to book in advance at the friendly Cosi's Inn, the chic Kanakis Apartments, or the more standard rooms at Andreas Rokos on the driveway, all three on the driveway. In addition to the small pebble beach, Asos has three taverns, two of them - Nefeli and Platanos Grill - under plane trees in a square surrounded by mostly restored mansions, so there are no signs of the earthquake. It’s a bit cramped there, but you won’t find anything like it in the entire Ionian archipelago.

Located at the northernmost tip of the island, the town of Fiskardo is built on a limestone bed that protects the city from strong tremors. The bay is guarded by two lighthouses, Venetian and Victorian, and those ruins that are noticeable on the cape are said to remain from the 12th century church, which the Norman conqueror Robert Guiscard began to build, and the current name of the town reminds us of Gixar. The harbor embankment remains the same as it was in the 19th century, only now it is surrounded by luxurious restaurants and chic boutiques.

It is also home to the new Museum of Nature and Navigation (summer Monday-Friday 10:00-18:00, Sunday 10:00-14:00; donations), housed in a renovated neoclassical mansion built on a hill behind the village. The volunteers who take care of the museum study the environment, not without valuable results, and can also organize scuba diving. There are two good pebble beaches nearby: Emblisi, about 1 kilometer on the way back from the city, and Fokis, about the same distance, but to the south, along the path to the northern cape. Daily ferries connect Fiskardo with Lefkada all year round, and with Ithaca only in season.

As the main resort of the island, Fiskardo is busy until the end of October, so that accommodation is practically unaffordable. The cheapest rooms are in the hospitable Regina’s with its own cafe behind the building, near the car park, as well as in the Sotiria Tselenti agency. At the bakery, 50 meters behind a tiny square. An excellent, if ruinous, option is the beautifully remodeled Archontiko mansion behind and above the harbor convenience store. A little further from the ferry pier, on the embankment, there is the Pama Travel office, where they can also help you find a room or (more expensive) apartment.

There are a lot of restaurants, many good ones, but almost all are expensive. On the embankment, the rich seafood at Tassia is recommended (just watch your order - otherwise they will bring the wrong fish and not as much as you wanted) and Captain’s Table: hearty Greek and Cephalonian cuisine. Near the cape behind Pama Travel, Panormos has much lower prices and is superbly located, and Lagonderia around the corner offers delicious oven-fired food and now has premises on the seafront as well. Some of the most successful harbor bars include Irida's and the Yacht Inn. In the Kastro club on the outskirts of the village, among other things, they dance.

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