after the transfer of Alaska to America. Where are they located, and who discovered the Commander Islands?
Discoverer of the northern lands
The Commander Archipelago is a chain of four land areas. Some of them belong to the Kamchatka and Aleutian regions.
To the question “Who discovered the Commander Islands and when?” there is a clear answer. The largest formations in the archipelago are the Bering and Medny islands. On the first of them Vitus Bering, who discovered the land in 1741, is buried. According to his military status, the new territorial entity was named “commander”.
Geography of the islands
The territory is located near Kamchatka. The Commander Islands are separated from the Aleutian archipelago by the Blizhny Strait. The water border is 370 km wide. The territory is located between the Bering Sea and the Pacific Ocean. The area of the archipelago is 1848 sq. km.
Native people
The population of the islands is Aleuts. The number of Russians is extremely small - 670 people. The only settlement formed here is the village of Nikolskoye.
Despite the fact that the territory is located in the North, the destination is popular among tourists. Unique landscapes, rare animals and the original culture of local peoples create the conditions for an interesting trip.
Until the mid-20th century, the natural resources of the Commander Islands were used by humans without restrictions, which led to the destruction of fauna and the extermination of some species of wildlife, 40 of which are described in the Red Book of Russia. It was not until 1958 that a 30 km long fence was created to prohibit fishing. The reserve on the islands was formed in 1993. In 2005, the archipelago was included in the tentative list of world heritage sites of the international organization UNESCO.
From the history of the Commander Islands
The Bering discovery is part of the territory remaining in Russian possession after the transfer of Alaska to America.
Until the 19th century, there was no permanent population in the territory. At that time, the lands belonged to the Russian-American colonial company, and no one set goals to develop them due to the harsh climate and remoteness of the area, and the complexity of developing technologies.
The first settlements were formed from hunters. In 1825, large-scale development began. The indigenous inhabitants of the Aleutian Islands, the Eskimos, were brought to the Commander Islands. In total there were about 100 people. The extraction of fish and minerals in these parts brought great profits, so contracts were concluded and new personnel were sent here. By the end of the 60s there were about 600 inhabitants.
The last two decades have been indigenous to the islands, borrowed from what is now US-owned Alaska and the Aleutian Islands. Today they call themselves Saksinnan and Unangan - new nationalities appeared as a result of the mixing of Russians with Creoles and other nationalities living there.
Now you know who discovered the Commander Islands and what is remarkable about the archipelago.
East of Kamchatka, 200 km away. located from the mainland a nice place, named Commander Islands, in honor of the discoverer Commander Vitus Bering. Bering first visited them in 1741. The great navigator died in the same year on the islands he discovered. His ship was thrown ashore, and 29 people died during the forced winter, including Vitus Bering, who was 60 years old. The remaining members of that expedition were able to survive and in the summer of 1742 arrived on the mainland on a boat built from the wreckage of the command ship “St. Peter”.
The sailors, left without a livelihood, suffered greatly from scurvy. Most of the crew died due to this disease. It is worth paying tribute to the German naturalist Georg Wilhelm Steller, who was in the command of the commander. He forced the sailors to eat algae, which restored the acute lack of vitamin C in the body, which allowed half of the crew to survive.
Not least of all, the discovery of a new animal from the order of sirens played a role in survival - Steller's sea cow, relatives of modern dugongs. This animal, growing up to 10 meters in length and reaching a weight of 4 tons, had a large supply of meat and fat. The catch of one such large animal allowed the sailors to eat normally for several weeks.
The irony is that Steller's cow, which helped the pioneers survive, was subsequently completely destroyed by humans. This slow animal simply could not hide from the person who began to hunt it because of the large amount of fat and meat. In a quarter of a century, he completely destroyed Steller's cow. Now in human hands there is only a small piece of animal tissue, from which it may someday be possible to clone an innocent mammal.
Geography
The Commander Islands consist of 4 main large islands. First of all, these are the two largest - Bering and island Copper. Smaller ones - Toporkov Island And Arius island stone. It is generally accepted that these 4 islands form the Commander Islands, although not far from Bering and Medny there are several nameless rocks protruding above the water. But they are not taken into account, since they are absolutely lifeless stones. For example, Aryan Stone is a high rocky island with a kilometer diameter. It is loved by many birds nesting on its ledges. Toporkov looks the same - a low rock, where, according to ornithologists, about 50 thousand birds - cormorants, gulls, and puffins - have found their home.
Bering Island is the largest among the Commander Islands. It contains the only residential settlement - Nikolskoye. In the 20th century there were several settlements on the Commander Islands, including on the island. Copper. But currently there is only one village left. The population in Nikolskoye is declining. The last census in 2010 showed that 613 people remained on the islands, down from more than 1,300 20 years ago. Nikolskoye is mainly inhabited by Aleuts, who founded the village by sailing here from Attu Island, which is now under the jurisdiction of the United States.
The second largest island, Medny, is located east of Bering. Until 2001, there was a border outpost on it, which is no longer functioning, and its residents have been resettled to Nikolskoye or to the mainland.
Fauna of the Commander Islands
The islands' waters are an important feeding ground for large mammals. Sperm whales, killer whales, some species of whales, etc. winter or migrate here. The Bereng and Medny rivers are rich in freshwater fish. These are mainly valuable salmon species. Rare species such as Arctic char, sockeye salmon, Chinook salmon, Dolly Varden, pink salmon, etc. live here.
The vegetation on the islands is poor. There are no forests at all. Moss, lichen, marsh grasses and shrubs, and dwarf trees predominate. Of the terrestrial fauna, the Arctic fox, American mink, and wild deer feel well in such conditions. Various rodents are common.
More widely animal world Commander Islands is represented by birds. The coastal cliffs are home to huge colonies of gulls, cormorants, horned and tufted puffins and many others. Birds of prey include the gyrfalcon and the Steller's sea eagle. In total, there are 180 species of birds on the islands, some of which are listed in the International Red Book.
Geographical position
The Komandorsky State Natural Biosphere Reserve is located on the Commander Islands and the adjacent 30-mile sea area. The total area of the reserve is 3,648,679 hectares.
Geographical location of the Komandorsky State Nature Reserve.
The geographical location, geological history of the islands, features of their structure, climate and hydrological conditions of the surrounding ocean determine the main unique features of the flora and fauna of the reserve.
The Commander Islands are located in the northwestern part Pacific Ocean(The Pacific Ocean is the oldest ocean on the planet - it has existed since the Paleozoic). From the south they are washed by the waters of the Pacific Ocean, and from the north by the waters of the Bering Sea.
The Commander Archipelago is the western block of the Aleutian island arc. Often, due to the peculiarities of the geological history and location of the Commander Islands, separated from the main part of the Aleutian Islands by a wide strait, the arc is called the Commander-Aleutian. The total length of the Commander-Aleutian arc, consisting of 150 islands and 47 straits, is 2260 km (this is the longest island arc on the planet). It is like a bridge connecting two continents – Eurasia and North America.
The Commander Islands are located at coordinates 55° 25’ and 54° 31’ N. and 165° 04’ and 168° E.
The islands are separated from the Kamchatka Peninsula by the Kamchatka Strait with a width of almost 190 km and a depth of 4420 m (this is the deepest and largest in cross-section, the strait of the entire island arc), and from the rest of the Aleutian arc by the Near Strait with a width of just over 363 km and a depth of 2000 m. Bering and Medny Islands are separated by the Admiral Kuznetsov Strait, which is 49 km wide and up to 146 m deep.
The Commander Islands include two large islands - Beringa and Medny and two small islands - Ariy Kamen and Toporkov.
On the Pacific side, the islands are limited by the Komandorsko-Aleutian deep-sea trench, the depth of which is 7000 m. The steepness of the underwater slopes is 30-35°. Despite the fact that in general the islands have a fairly long island shelf, in some places the edge of the dump passes only 4-5 km from the coast (beam of Poludennaya Bay on Bering Island).
Bering Island is the most big Island Commander Archipelago, its area is 1667 km 2 (or 166,700 hectares). The length of the island from north to south (from Cape North to Cape Monati) is about 90 km. The maximum width of the island is 35 km (from Cape North-West to Cape Vaksel in the north of the island), and the minimum is 2.4 km (from Elina Bay to Likandrovskaya Bay in the south of the island). The length of its coastline is 257.4 km.
The highest point is Mount Steller - 755 m, and on average Bering Island rises 150-755 meters above sea level.
The island got its name in honor of Captain-Commander Vitus Bering.
The northern part of Bering Island is low and flat. Photo by Dmitry Pilipenko.
Medny Island is the second largest island of the archipelago. The area of the island is 186 km 2 (or 18,600 hectares). The length of the island is 57 km, the width at its widest point is 8.4 km (from Cape Zhirovoy to Cape Senkinsky), and at its narrowest it is 0.35 km (from Sekachinskaya Bay to Peresheek Ostrovnaya Bay). Medny is slightly lower than Bering Island - 360-647 m, highest point– Mount Steineger (647 m). The length of the coastline of Medny Island is 164.9 km.
On Medny Island you can hardly find at least one horizontal platform. The author of the photo is Evgeny Mamaev.
Medny Island got its name from native copper, which was discovered almost at the moment the island was discovered inXVIIIcentury. The author of the photo is Alexey Chetvergov.
Toporkov Island is located on the northwestern side of Bering Island in Nikolsky Roadstead Bay. The island is flat, up to 9 m high. Its area is 0.25 km 2, and its perimeter is 2 km.
Toporkov Island is a flat plateau. The author of the photo is Evgeny Mamaev.
Toporkov Island got its name because of the colony of Toporkov birds, which are numerous here.
Ariy Kamen Island is also located on the northwestern side of Bering Island. It is a rock rising 53 m above sea level. The area of the island is 0.08 km 2, and the perimeter is about 1 km.
Ariy Kamen Island is a rock rising 53 m above the ocean surface. The author of the photo is Evgeny Mamaev.
Ariy Kamen Island is named so because of the numerous nesting guillemots here, which are called macaws in Aleutian.
Near the shores of the islands there are up to 60 isolated rock outcrops (kekurs) and surface stones. The most notable of these are Dog Pillar, Beaver Rocks and Steller's Arch.
There are dozens of kekurs along the coast of the Commander Islands. The author of the photo is Evgeny Mamaev.
Steller Arch is the most famous rock outcrop located on the west coast of Bering Island. Photo by Dmitry Pilipenko.
Origin of the islands
The Commander Islands, as well as the entire Aleutian island arc, are the peaks of an underwater volcanic ridge. By their origin, as evidenced by the content of rare earth elements in the Komandorsky lavas, the islands are oceanic and lie on the ocean floor, although in a number of works they are classified as a transitional type.
The Commander Islands appeared as a result of the early phases of Cenozoic volcanism. In total, experts count three stages of volcanism. It has long been believed that the fourth, modern stage of volcanism, characteristic of the Aleutian arc, is absent on the Commander Islands. However, in 1984, 70 km northeast of Bering Island in the Commander Basin, the Volcanologists massif with the active underwater volcano Piipa was discovered.
In the first stage (50-40 million years ago), volcanism was deep-sea in nature and the foundations of the islands were formed. Now the fruits of this stage of island formation can be observed from Poludennaya Bay on the western coast of Bering Island and Komandor Bay on the eastern coast of the island to its southernmost point - Cape Monati. On Medny Island, traces of this stage are found from the northern tip of the island to Korabelnaya Bay on the east coast.
Cape Monati is the southernmost tip of Bering Island. Here you can find traces of the first stage of volcanism on the islands. The author of the photo is Evgeny Mamaev.
Bobrovye Kamni is the northernmost tip of Medny Island. Traces of the first stage of volcanism on this island are found here. The author of the photo is Evgeny Mamaev.
20-15 million years ago, the second stage of volcanism occurred, during which almost the entire northern part of Bering Island and a small section of Medny Island - from Korabelnaya Bay to Cape Cherny - were formed. This stage of volcanism already occurred in shallow waters.
The northern part of Bering Island was formed during the second stage of volcanism on the islands. The author of the photo is Evgeny Mamaev.
Cape Cherny on Medny Island was formed during the second stage of volcanism on the Commander Islands. The author of the photo is Evgeny Mamaev.
In the final, third stage (5-2 million years ago), the structures of Cape North-West on Bering Island and the entire southern part of Medny Island, starting from Glinka Bay, were formed. This stage already took place in the air.
Cape North-West on Bering Island was formed during the third and final stage of volcanism on the islands. The author of the photo is Evgeny Mamaev.
Cape Yuzhny on Medny Island. The southern part of Medny Island was formed during the third and final stage of volcanism. The author of the photo is Evgeny Mamaev.
The general uplift of the islands occurred at the end of the Paleogene - beginning of the Neogene (23 million years ago). The so-called Buyanovskaya formation of rocks was formed.
This was followed by a new subsidence and formation of the Kamensk formation; The modern folding of the islands is formed. This period in the evolution of the islands dates back to the end of the Miocene (5 million years ago). This was followed by an uplift that brought the main area of the Commander Islands above sea level.
At the end of the Tertiary period (2.5 million years ago), the last outbreak of volcanism followed, after which the entire area of the islands rose above sea level (approximately between 200 and 70 thousand years ago).
In addition to volcanism, tectonic processes of plate movement took part in the formation of the modern appearance of the islands. These processes occurred during the Quaternary period (less than 2 million years ago). Single blocks of islands were split and displaced. The largest faults on Medny Island can be traced in the Zhirovaya, Gladkovskaya and Korabelnaya bays, near the Isthmus. If you look at the map of Medny Island, one of these shifting places is visible in Korabelnaya Bay - the southern part of the island is displaced in the northeast direction relative to its northern part, the island seems to be broken.
On Bering Island, fault locations are also well defined. Thus, the valleys of the Gladkovskaya and Polovina rivers are indicative in this regard. Another group of faults and displacements of parts of the island is clearly visible from the nature of the valleys of such rivers as Kamenka, Starogavanskaya and Tovarishcheskaya Shayba - the direction of their flow changes sharply from northwestern to latitudinal. These rivers flow through highly curved valleys. As a result of a series of faults, the islands acquired the modern appearance of the coastline.
During the Quaternary, new uplifts occurred, the history of which can be traced along the marine terraces, especially in the northern part of Bering Island. Thus, 200-meter terraces were formed in the Middle Quaternary (about 800 thousand years ago), and 20-meter ones - in the Upper Quaternary (about 100 thousand years ago).
Coastal terraces were formed in different time in accordance with the tectonic dynamics of the islands. The author of the photo is Evgeny Mamaev.
Quaternary glaciation (2-1 million years ago) took part in the formation of the modern appearance of the Commander Islands. On Medny Island and in the southern part of Bering Island there are trough valleys, the tops of which end in glacial cirques.
The trough valley on Medny Island is evidence of Quaternary glaciation on the Commander Islands. The author of the photo is Evgeny Mamaev.
Currently, the uplift of the islands continues. The rate of uplift is about 2.2 mm/year.
Since the islands are located on the boundary of the interaction of the Bering Sea and Pacific lithospheric plates, significant geodynamic processes occur here. As a result of the interaction of plates, the islands are moving towards the Kamchatka Peninsula at a speed of about 50 mm/year (according to preliminary research results).
Climate and weather
Over the course of geological history, the climate on the Commander Islands has varied from subtropical to boreal. Traces of Quaternary glaciation (2-1 million years ago) are noted here.
The climate and weather in the North Pacific Ocean is largely determined by atmospheric circulation, which is represented by a system of low and high pressure areas. The center of low pressure (cyclonic) is located slightly north of the Aleutian island arc in the region of 180°E. and is called the Aleutian depression, or the Aleutian minimum. This is the area of lowest pressure. The southern center of the anticyclonic high pressure system is called the Honolulu High and is located near the Hawaiian Islands. In the Aleutian Depression, atmospheric pressure changes throughout the year - the minimum is observed in December-February, and the maximum in June-August. At the same time, in the warm period of the year, the weather in the area of the Commander Islands is mainly influenced by the relationship between the Aleutian minimum and the Honolulu maximum, and in the cold period - by the Aleutian minimum and the Asian anticyclone developing during this period.
Centers of atmospheric action that determine the nature of the climate on the Commander Islands.
Cyclonic vortices developing between these centers of atmospheric action largely determine the climate and weather on the Commander Islands. The islands are in the movement zone of most cyclones. In the years when the center of the Aleutian Low is established in the area of the Commander Islands, warm air masses penetrate into the Bering Sea and winters are mild.
The Commander Islands are in the path of most cyclones heading into the Bering Sea.
From November to March, the Bering Sea basin absorbs from 7 to 14 cyclones originating in the south of the Asian continent. In total, 50-60 cyclones enter the Bering Sea every year. A significant part of the cyclones pass through the Commander Islands, which lie on the path of their movement. According to average long-term data, two areas with the highest frequency of days with cyclones are identified in the northern part of the Pacific Ocean - the Gulf of Alaska and the Commander Islands. Due to the fact that cyclones in the Bering Sea turn into vast, sedentary depressions (areas of low atmospheric pressure) that absorb new cyclones, the duration of continuous cyclonic activity can last up to 14 days. This leads to the fact that prolonged storms, snowfalls and blizzards are not uncommon here.
Frequent and prolonged cyclones lead to severe storms. The author of the photo is Evgeny Mamaev.
In addition to atmospheric circulations, the cold Kamchatka Current and branches have a huge influence on the climate of the islands. warm current Kuroshio.
Due to the peculiarities of its geographical location, the climate on the Commander Islands is maritime, temperate and humid. The islands are characterized by unfavorable weather with prolonged precipitation, stormy winds, short duration of sunshine, and smooth seasonal changes in air temperature and precipitation.
Winters on the Commander Islands are mild and only near the coast does a narrow strip of fast ice form. The author of the photo is Nadezhda Ryabchunova.
The seasons of the year are poorly defined. Spring begins in mid-April and lasts until the end of July. The amount of precipitation during this period is minimal. In June, the number of days with low clouds and fog increases, so there are few warm days.
The concept of summer on the islands is relative. In the summer months, weather with low clouds and drizzling fogs prevails; the air does not warm up significantly; only in some years the average daily air temperature exceeds 15 degrees. There is more precipitation at this time than in spring. The average wind speed is the smallest compared to other seasons - about 5 m/s.
In autumn, following the increase in the frequency of cyclones, the amount of precipitation and wind speed increase. The likelihood of hurricane winds increases.
Air temperature. The average annual air temperature on Bering Island is positive and amounts to 2-2.5°C, and on Medny Island – 2.8°C. The coldest month is February (-3.7°C), and the warmest month is August (+10. 6°C). The absolute minimum on the islands -23.5° C was recorded in February 1903, and the absolute maximum + 21.5° C was recorded in June 1938. Thaws in the cold season and cold snaps in the warm are not uncommon. A stable frosty period on the islands begins in the first ten days of December and lasts until the beginning of April. The total duration of the frosty period is 125 days.
The combination of low temperatures, high relative humidity with significant wind speeds turns the climate on the islands into extremely uncomfortable and harsh.
Frequent winds and high humidity make living conditions on the Commander Islands uncomfortable. The author of the photo is Anastasia Kuznetsova.
Air humidity. The islands are characterized by very high relative humidity throughout the year. A conditional indicator of “dryness” is a humidity of 30% or less. According to this indicator, there are no dry days on the Commander Islands. Maximum humidity levels occur in the summer - 91-93%, when the weather is often cloudy with fog and drizzle.
Precipitation. On average, the islands receive 660-690 mm of precipitation per year on Bering Island and up to 1213 mm on Medny Island. This is significantly less than, for example, on the Kamchatka Peninsula. The number of days with precipitation on the Commander Islands is 270-280 days a year. The average duration of precipitation on days with precipitation is 8-9 hours. Maximum precipitation occurs in October-November. A special feature of the islands is the low intensity of precipitation - frequent light drizzles - “buses”. Thunderstorms are rare on the islands, but the autumn months bring unexpected rainbows.
Wind. The Commander Islands are characterized by a complex wind regime, directly related to the general circulation of the atmosphere in the Asia-Pacific region. During the cold period, winds from the northern and northeastern directions predominate; in the summer, southwestern and western winds are most often observed.
The average annual wind speed on the islands is 6.8 m/s (24.5 km/h), with at least 1-2 days observed during the year when the wind speed exceeds the criteria for a dangerous phenomenon of 33 m/s or more (119 km /h or more). The maximum recorded gust speed on Bering Island is 50 m/s (180 km/h).
Due to strong winds, storms occur, the frequency of which increases significantly in the fall. The author of the photo is Evgeny Mamaev.
The strongest winds are observed in the autumn-winter period, and the smallest in the summer. According to long-term observations, the monthly average number of days with winds of more than 15 m/s (54 km/h) in winter is 15-18, and the maximum is up to 28 days. At the same time, the average annual number of days with winds of more than 15 m/s is 80.
Protracted autumn storms sometimes lead to catastrophic consequences. The author of the photo is Evgeny Mamaev.
On Medny Island, as well as in the southern half of Bering Island, due to the peculiar structure of the surface (strong mountain folding), special local winds are formed. Breaking through narrow valleys, the wind rolls down the leeward slopes with enormous force.
Snow cover. The first snow cover on the islands forms in early November, although the timing may shift by 2-4 weeks in one direction or the other. The earliest appearance of snow was observed on October 23. The first snow usually melts. Stable snow cover forms on December 1 (according to long-term average data). Melting begins in April, and the final melting occurs in early May. However, in mountain valleys the snow can lie all summer, and in some years it does not have time to melt at all.
In winter, snowstorms are not uncommon on the Commander Islands. The author of the photo is Evgeny Mamaev.
The number of days with stable snow cover is 160.
The snow cover reaches its maximum height at the end of March - 80-100 cm. The low height of the snow cover is associated with its blowing and high density, which is greatly facilitated by frequent winter thaws.
After prolonged snowstorms, deep snowdrifts form. The author of the photo is Alexander Afanasyev.
Fogs. The Commander Islands are known for their fogs. During the year, the number of days with fog averages 55, and in some years – 98. The foggy month is July (up to 17 days per month, maximum 29 days).
Fogs are a common occurrence on the Commander Islands. The author of the photo is Artem Komarov.
Most often, so-called advective fogs form here, which occur when warmer air meets colder water. This occurs when moderate winds from the south continue to blow in one direction. The reason for the frequent fogs creeping onto the islands from the ocean is upwelling, as a result of which cold deep waters rise to the surface, leading to the condensation of water vapor from warm air.
The calling card of the Commander Islands is fog. The author of the photo is Evgeny Mamaev.
Blizzards. The average number of days per year with snowstorms is 42, and the maximum is 82. Snowstorms are most often recorded in January-March - up to 24 days (March) per month.
Cloudiness. Overcast sky - characteristic feature climate of the Commander Islands. Thus, the average cloudiness score is 8.3 (that is, every day over 80% of the sky is covered with clouds). The number of days a year without sun is 147, which is the maximum in the Kamchatka Territory. The sunniest months are April, May, September and October.
Cloudy skies are a common occurrence on the Commander Islands. The author of the photo is Evgeny Mamaev.
Soils
The soil-forming rocks on the Commander Islands are basaltic andesite, mudstone and sea sand. Several types of soils formed on them.
Tundra podburs are represented mainly in the northern part of Bering Island and on the slopes of the hills in Gladkovskaya Bay on Medny Island. This soil is located under hummocky tundra.
Tundra podburs, poorly developed, superficially stony, are less common and occupy summit and near-summit mountain surfaces, located under gravelly tundras.
Soddy subarctic coastal soils were formed on marine terraces 2-5 m high, composed of sands under forb-grass communities. These are the most fertile soils on the Commander Islands.
Peaty and peat-boggy soils are located in lowland swamps. They are most widespread in the northern lowland part of Bering Island and in the middle and low floodplains of rivers.
Dune fields
A characteristic element of the landscapes of the Commander Islands are dune fields. In total, up to 8 large dune fields are noted on the islands. Such dune fields are found on Cape North-West, in Kitovaya and Nikolsky raid bays, between the Kamenka and Peschanka rivers, in Peresheek, Lisinskaya, Serebryannikova and Bobrovaya bays on the western coast of Bering Island, as well as in Polovina, Komandor and a number of other bays on the eastern coast. On Medny Island, dunes are known in Peschanaya and Korabelnaya bays on the east coast.
The largest dune field is located in Nikolsky Bay on Bering Island and stretches from the mouth of the Gavanskaya River to Kitova Bay. Its total length is 7 km and its width is up to 800 m.
The formation of dunes is associated with periods of regression (lowering sea levels), during which sand from the dried parts of the bottom was swept by winds. Thus, three relatively well-defined lines of dunes were formed, having different heights and ages. For the most part, the first line of dunes, up to 2.5 m high, closest to the sea, are up to 1400 years old. The second line of dunes, up to 12 m high, is up to 3,700 years old. The third line of dunes, located in the rear part, up to 30 m high, is up to 9700 years old. Such high ancient dunes are well developed in Nikolsky Bay, in the interfluve of Kamenka and Peschanka and in Bobrovaya Bay.
A dune field located between the Kamenka and Peschanka rivers on Bering Island. The author of the photo is Evgeny Mamaev.
The dunes are usually well turfed and covered with dense vegetation. The exception is the dune fields in Nikolsky Bay, where under the influence of livestock grazing in the 60s of the last century, the process of their dispersal is underway.
Inland waters
On the Commander Islands, inland waters are represented by rivers and streams, drainage and drainless lakes, peat lakes, swamps, etc. Inland waters are completely absent on the islands of Ariy Kamen and Toporkov.
Rivers and streams. Bering and Medny Islands have a dense river network. The rivers are fed by snow and mixed. Rivers, as a rule, are not large. The width of the channels is 1-2 m, in the mouth part it reaches 8 m. The depth is up to 1.5 m. In the southern mountainous part of Bering Island and on most of Mednoye Island, river valleys have a so-called “suspended” character, that is, they end cliffs from which rivers fall in waterfalls. The heights of the waterfalls range from 10 to 200 m. The rivers of the northern part of Bering Island are flat. These are the Ladyginskaya and Gavanskaya rivers.
In the southern part of Bering Island and in many places on the Copper River Islands, there are “suspended” valleys that end in cliffs. The author of the photo is Evgeny Mamaev.
The longest river is the Kamenka River on Bering Island. Its length is 27 km.
Valley of the Kamenka River on Bering Island. This is the longest river on the Commander Islands. Photo by Dmitry Pilipenko.
Lakes. There are 120 lakes on the Commander Islands with a total area of about 40 km 2.
The largest lake on the islands is Saranoye Lake. Its area is 31.6 km2. The depth of the lake is 36 m. Currently, the lake level is 12 m higher than the ocean level. During the Riess-Würm transgression (rise in water level) of the ocean 130 thousand years ago, this lake was a sea lagoon. As confirmation of those distant events, relict crustaceans can still be found in it. About 20 thousand years ago, the sea level dropped, which led to the desalination of the lagoon and the formation of the modern appearance of Lake Sarannoy.
Saranoye Lake is the most big lake Commander Islands. The author of the photo is Evgeny Mamaev.
The second largest lake in terms of water surface area is Lake Gavanskoye - 4.74 km 2 . Due to the influence of tides, the water in the lake is brackish. The lake is located in a valley, which was a shallow sea bay during the Riess-Würm transgression. After the ocean retreated, a lake formed. As evidence of its “sea” past, shells of marine mollusks can be found at the sources of the river of the same name.
Lake Havana is located in a valley that was once a sea bay. The author of the photo is Ivan Rybakov.
The largest salt lake Lagoon-type lake on Bering Island is Lake Peresheikovskoye, located in the south of the island off the west coast. The area of its water surface is 0.45 km2. It communicates with the ocean through a channel.
Lake Peresheikovskoye has a lagoonal character and the water in it is salty. The author of the photo is Anastasia Kuznetsova.
Another large lagoon-type lake is Lake Gladkovskoye on Medny Island.
The most ancient lakes on the Commander Islands are small relict lakes on the Pig Mountains. They were formed in the Middle Pleistocene - approximately 0.8-0.13 million years ago.
The relic lakes on the Pig Mountains are considered the most ancient on the Commander Islands - their age is 130-800 thousand years. Photo by Dmitry Pilipenko.
Swamps. Thanks to the characteristic climate and special moisture conditions, swamps have developed on the Commander Islands. However, due to the mountainous terrain, the area occupied by swamps is generally not so large, no more than 3% of the total territory of the islands.
The largest Northern Swamp is located on a 60-meter sea terrace on the northern tip of Bering Island. Its area is 8.5 km2. The thickness of peat deposits is up to 2 m. There are a number of thermokarst depressions filled with water. According to experts, the formation of the swamp began about 9.3-5.7 thousand years ago.
The Ladyginskaya River valley is a fairly large swamp area. Its area is 5.2 km2.
Another large swamp system on Bering Island is the Gavanskaya River valley. The total area of this system is about 12 km 2. The age of the Havana swamp massif is estimated at 3-6 thousand years.
Floodplain swamps are located in the lower reaches of the Polovina and Poludennaya rivers and in the middle reaches of the Podutesnaya River on Bering Island, as well as in Peschanaya, Korabelnaya and Topolevskaya bays on Medny Island.
Tsunami
The Commander Islands are located in a tsunami-hazardous zone. The width of the tsunami front along the eastern coast of Kamchatka ranges from 100 to 400 km. On average, every century there is one catastrophic and 10-15 “ordinary” tsunamis. The height of the waves varies from 10 to 40 m.
There are two well-documented tsunamis in the Commander Islands - in 1960 and 1969. Maximum height The water rise was 1.5-2.5 m. Both the Kamchatka tsunami of 1952 and the Alaskan tsunami of 1964 had their consequences on the islands.
Sea currents
Sea currents have a huge impact on the climate and biological appearance of this or that part of the World Ocean. The Commander Islands are located in an area where several main currents exert their influence.
Diagram of sea currents in the North Pacific.
The warm Kuroshio Current at the level of the Japanese Islands turns into the North Pacific Current, which goes further in a northeasterly direction to the shores of Alaska. Here it splits into two branches, one of which forms the Alaskan Gyre and the Alaskan Jet Stream. The Alaskan jet current is the main one that carries the waters of the Pacific Ocean into the Bering Sea through the numerous straits of the Commander-Aleutian island arc. This current reaches the Blizhnye Strait, separating the Blizhnye and Komandorskie islands. Then it goes around the Commander Islands in the Bering Sea and turns in a northwestern direction, replenishing the waters of the Kamchatka Current. Part of the water flow of the Alaskan Jet Current goes around the Commander Islands from the south, and also participates in the formation of the Western Subarctic Gyre. Thus, the Alaskan Jet Current brings warm waters of the Pacific Ocean into the Bering Sea and, washing the Commander Islands, prevents the formation of ice around them in winter. In different years, the power of the current and the direction of its individual branches may change, which makes adjustments to the weather conditions on the islands and the characteristics of the marine ecosystem of the adjacent water area.
From the west through the Kamchatka Strait from the north, the cold waters of the Bering Sea are carried into the ocean by the Kamchatka Current. Moreover, in different years its main flow can occur either off the coast of the Kamchatka Peninsula or off the Commander Islands. The speed of this current is 11-20 cm/s.
The branch of the Alaskan jet stream, entering the Bering Sea through the Blizhny Strait and partially through the Admiral Kuznetsov Strait, has a speed of up to 5 cm/s at a depth of 0 to 10 m. The western coast of the Commander Islands in a southern direction is washed by waters emerging from the cyclonic gyre over the Commander Islands basin through the Kamchatka Strait. The speed of this current on the surface is up to 10 cm/s, and at a depth of 200 m – 20-40 cm/s.
In addition to surface currents, vertical water circulation – upwelling – also takes place in the waters of the Commander Islands. The entire Komandorsko-Aleutian ridge is a zone of pronounced upwelling. The phenomenon of upwelling is the rise of deep water to the surface of the ocean. At the same time, deep waters bring nutrients to the surface and promote the active development of phytoplankton and, through trophic chains, lead to an increase in the biological productivity of the ocean (in particular, in zones with pronounced upwelling, increased densities of cephalopods, fish, seabirds and marine mammals are formed).
Bottom topography near the Commander Islands and upwelling pattern.
Upwelling in the area of the Commander Islands is coastal and related to topography.
Strong, frequent and prolonged winds blowing along the coast lead to the rise of deep waters. The underwater topography of the islands leads to the same effect - the currents washing the islands, resting against the steep underwater slopes, rise upward.
Tidal activity of the ocean
The Commander Islands are located within the tidal range of the ocean.
Tides are periodic fluctuations in ocean water levels due to the gravitational pull of the Moon and Sun. Most high level water is called high water, and the lowest is called low water. Depending on the relative position of the Moon and the Sun in relation to the Earth, spring and quadrature tides are distinguished.
At the latitude of the Commander Islands, irregular diurnal tides prevail.
During low tides, extensive reef slabs are exposed. The author of the photo is Evgeny Mamaev.
The maximum tide on the Commander Islands is 2.3 m, and the minimum water level is 0.3 m. In the spring-summer months, maximum low tides occur in the morning and daytime hours, while in the autumn-winter period - at night watch. Every day, the time of maximum low tide shifts by about an hour, and its indicator changes by 10-20 cm.
Why go to Commanders:
- One of the most remote and inaccessible places on the entire planet, the true End of the Earth, where you have the opportunity to get to a real uninhabited island.
- The nature of the marine tundra with the numerous and unafraid fauna of the Bering Sea: pinnipeds, seabirds, invertebrates.
- Places associated with the activities of Vitus Bering's expedition and the discoverer's grave.
Nature
The Commander Islands belong to natural country Beringia, and their nature is typical for the entire coast of the Bering Sea. Landscapes of the islands- coastal tundra, and the landscapes on the Commanders are quite dull at first glance: low hills, gentle valleys, lakes and rivers, numerous convenient bays and sharp capes. There is not a single tree on the islands except dwarf birches. The climate of the islands is maritime subarctic, and in the summer it is constantly cloudy, windy and about 10°C; in the winter the islands are covered with snow up to the tops of the hills. The Bering Sea that washes the Commanders from the north and the Pacific Ocean from the south is constantly cold, gray and inhospitable. Storms are frequent.
But the Commander Islands are exceptionally rich in polar marine fauna. Here, in natural conditions, you can see ocean birds, pinnipeds, marine mollusks and coelenterates. There are huge bird colonies and rookeries on the islands. At low tide the bottom is exposed, where you can see various jellyfish, sea anemones, ascidians, sea urchins, bolyanus and others.
Among the birds on the islands, the most interesting is the cormorant, which is also very common near the coast. Crows live in large numbers in the interior of the islands. Well, in addition, there are a lot of small seabirds: puffins (the most common), puffins, terns, loons, sea gulls.
Near the shore you can see rookeries of large pinnipeds. The seal, sea otter and fur seal feel completely free on the islands, the walrus is often found, but the most common large mammal of the Comador Islands is the sea lion, a pinniped similar to a walrus, but without tusks. Some rookeries on Bering Island can be reached on foot in one day, and the animals are not afraid of humans. The most common land mammal on the islands is the arctic fox, but in summer it is a rather pitiful sight. The Commander Islands are practically safe for a traveler - there are no large predators here, and therefore (if you don’t go to the rookeries), you can get around any of the islands alone. In the surrounding waters (if you're lucky) you can see whales.
Bering Island is the largest (area - 1660 km2) and the only inhabited island of the archipelago. Strongly stretched from north to south (90 kilometers, width up to 40 kilometers), the “capital” of the archipelago is the village of Nikolskoye, located in the north, and here is a kind of “hotbed of civilization” of the Commander Islands. This part of the island is notable for several lakes, the largest of which is Saranoe. Nikolskoye, located on the very shore of the Pacific Ocean, is a typical village of the Far Northeast - the housing is very poor, half of the apartments are abandoned. However, the village has its own Aleutian Museum of Local Lore and a memorial cross, which is often confused with Bering’s grave, and in the lower part of the village are preserved large wooden houses, built at the beginning of the twentieth century by Americans. Not long ago, two Danish-made wind generators appeared in the village - a gift from Denmark in memory of the Dane Vitus Bering. In case of fuel shortages, wind turbines ensure the survival of the village.
Copper. Autumn.
Painting by Ekaterina Vladimirovna Solokhina
The southern part of the island is quite mountainous, and if you were unable to get to Medny, the southern half of Bering Island can at least partially compensate for this. Here there are hills up to 500 meters high, among which Mount Steller (755 m) and nameless hill in the extreme south of the island (601 m). On the eastern coast of the island, approximately 30-40 kilometers from Nikolsky in Komandor Bay, the only historical landmark of the Comadorian Islands is located - grave of Vitus Bering, which is a thin black cross of metal rods against the backdrop of the sea, named after the person buried here.
Toporkov Island is a low (about 2 meters) flat landmass that is actually home to numerous Toporki. The island is visible from Nikolskoye.
Arius Stone Island- the smallest and westernmost in the archipelago, also visible from Nikolskoye. It is a lonely cliff about 200 meters high.
Medny Island is the second largest (180 km 2), the eastern island of the Commander Archipelago. It is also very stretched from north to south (60 km, width - no more than 8 kilometers). In Soviet times, only scientists working on expeditions and 18 military personnel from a border military unit lived here. Currently, scientists do not visit the island, and we have no information about the existence of a military unit. It is quite possible that Medny is now a real Desert Island. The landscapes of Medny are much more picturesque than the landscapes of Bering - sheer cliffs above the sea, boulders and blocks, deep gorges between steep and high hills, wave-carved grottoes, numerous small but powerful waterfalls. The island is especially rich in fauna; there are real bird colonies on rock walls and rookeries on sandy beaches, and the underwater world of Medny is exceptionally beautiful. If you still manage to reach Medny (and get out of it!), your impressions of desert island on the border of Eurasia and America, the Arctic and the Pacific, will remain for life.
Russia is a huge country that surprises everyone not only with its diverse natural beauties, but also with a large number of different attractions. The main assets of this country most often include its vast expanses; one of the most interesting places within the country is the Commander Islands.
Yes, this is by no means a standard vacation: beach, sea, and all-inclusive. Rather, a trip to the Commander Islands is for those who crave something unusual, the most vivid impressions, both from the trip itself and from the inspection. From the article you will learn about holidays on the Commander Islands: how to get there and what to see? Perhaps, after reading about this stunning corner of our country, you will want to go there in 2019.
Brief historical background
The first European travelers reached the Commander Islands not so long ago by the standards of universal history: in the 18th century. These were members of Russian expeditions to Kamchatka, they were shipwrecked there. Main Island archipelago and was named in honor of the expedition commander, Vitus Bering. Bering himself died during this journey, but part of his team began exploring new territories, which was subsequently continued by other scientists.
Subsequently, not only researchers, but also businessmen appeared on the islands: thanks to the rich wildlife, various crafts developed here. Aleuts appeared on the islands, whom the combined forces of Russian and American businessmen imported as workers.
After the transfer of Alaska, oddly enough, the Commander Islands remained part of Russia. Many years passed before humanity reached the understanding that rare animals should not be exterminated uncontrollably, but should be preserved and the population size controlled. Currently, fisheries on the islands are still part of the activity, however, nature reserves have also been created, and the islands are no longer visited by discoverers or businessmen, but by tourists who want to visit an unusual place and see a completely different, protected world.
Brief geographical information and climate
The islands are located on the eastern side of the Kamchatka Peninsula. Due to the fact that these land areas are located in the northern part of the cold Bering Sea and the Pacific Ocean, the climate on their territory is quite changeable and very harsh. Therefore, you can often hear that the Commanders are the land of “fog and wind.” It rains there very often and strong winds blow. Weather conditions on one island may differ significantly from weather conditions on another, and the weather tends to change several times during the day.
In winter on the islands, the average temperature on the islands is five degrees below zero, but can drop to twenty degrees below zero, and in summer the average thermometer reading is ten degrees above zero. It is better, of course, to go to the islands in the summer. The islands are not places where you can see the usual city life, since the only populated area on the archipelago is a village called Nikolskoye. It is home to less than 1,000 people - Russians and Aleuts.
Commander Islands on the map
Planning a trip to the Commander Islands: transport, accommodation, permission
How to get there?
For tourists wishing to get to the Commander Islands, this will not be so easy, since the small plane that transports travelers there flies only once a week, and one of the important conditions is the presence of good weather. However, the presence of all these difficulties has never stopped tourists from other cities and countries, and those people who have visited the Commander Islands at least once believe that every person should see this amazing land.
Firstly, there are specially organized tours to the Commander Islands. The cost of such offers is quite high for tours in Russia. So, you can book a 12-day summer tour to the Commander Islands for about 150,000 rubles. However, this amount will include:
- accommodation in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky;
- transfer to the village of Nikolskoye and all other movements;
- nutrition;
- excursions;
- rental of necessary equipment;
- medical insurance;
- all necessary permissions from the authorities.
When purchasing a tour to Commanders, air tickets to Kamchatka will have to be paid separately.
It must be said that the guides’ suggestions in this case are very justified: after all, if the tourist is not prepared and has not made such trips, it may even be dangerous for him to make such a trip without a guide.
But since there are also those who have already traveled on fairly stressful trips, you need to know how you can get to the Commander Islands on your own. You need to buy an air ticket to the city of Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky. The cost of a ticket from Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky in August will be approximately 25,000 rubles (one way per person).
In three hours from Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky or Ust-Kamchatsk by plane you can reach the village of Nikolskoye, which is located 4 kilometers from the airport. You will have to get acquainted with the website of the Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky airport in advance to understand when the plane will take off.
Another option is a trip by sea. From seaport From Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, tourists are delivered to the Commander Islands by the motor ship "Vasily Zavoiko", the travel time will be at least thirty-six hours (depending on weather conditions, it may increase).
Where to stay?
Planning independent trip It will be difficult to travel to the Commander Islands also because numerous hotels, inns and other delights are not waiting for tourists there. No, in this corner of wild nature there is only one settlement - the village of Nikolskoye, where the only Vitus Bering hotel was opened just a couple of years ago.
In principle, you can try to find local residents in advance by correspondence and agree to rent a corner for a certain time. However, what you need to know is that to thoroughly explore all corners of the islands, you will have to spend the night in camping conditions. To do this, you must either be part of an organized group, or be a very, very prepared and experienced tourist.
Permission to visit
A fairly large part of the islands is occupied by the Komandorsky State Natural Biosphere Reserve. In order to simply be on its territory, you must obtain special permission from the administration. Tourist groups Those who book a tour to the islands receive this permit among other paid services, but you can also obtain it yourself.
Tourists need permission to visit the territory for the purpose of educational ecotourism; they will also need to obtain paper separately for photo and video shooting. To obtain such permission, it is necessary to contact the administration of the reserve through official contacts in advance, even before making a trip.
Sights of the Commander Islands
So, the tourist overcame all obstacles. What awaits brave travelers on the Commander Islands?
It must be said that the village of Nikolskoye is the only stronghold of civilization among wild nature. But the stronghold is very modest: there are shops, a hospital, a bank, as well as the Aleutian Museum of Local Lore. The latter is definitely worth a look: learn more about the history of the discovery of the islands, travelers, Vitus Bering, the further history of this region, the Aleuts, the nature of the islands.
The anchored ship of the Second Kamchatka Expedition under the leadership of the main associate of the ruler of the Russian Empire, Vitus Bering, is considered a historical landmark of the islands. Also on the islands there is a reconstructed site of that same expedition, as well as the grave of the great explorer himself.
But the most important thing about the Commander Islands is their nature.
Today, the reserve is home to more than four hundred species and about forty subspecies of plants. They tend to be located on the so-called border of the natural zone of western and eastern flora and fauna.
So, on the islands you can see stunning rookeries of fur seals - these cute and beautiful animals live their lives on the shore, and tourists should only quietly observe and, with permission, take photographs. In addition to fur seals, tourists on the Commander Islands can expect, among others:
- humpback whales;
- sperm whales;
- porpoises;
- arctic foxes;
- Birds, fish, invertebrates abound.
Tourists usually do not miss the opportunity to visit local bays. The most famous of them are Podutesnaya and Poludennaya bays. In addition to the most interesting relief and landscape, in Podutesnaya you can admire the vibrant northern flora, waterfalls, an abundance of birds and fish, as well as sea lions, sea otters, and anturs. There is a station in Poludennaya Bay where scientists observe such powerful animals as whales and killer whales. An interesting place on the islands is the Steller Arch, a natural monument of unusual shape, named after the famous naturalist Georg Steller.
Medny Island will delight lovers of landscapes - the rocks on it are lushly overgrown with grass, the island is rich in grottoes and hills, gorges and waterfalls and is generally considered the most picturesque of the entire island group of the Commander Islands. The islands of Ariy Kamen and Toporkov are home to a very large bird colony: puffin puffins, puffins, cormorants and other birds of local latitudes.
Features of traveling to the Commander Islands
You must immediately understand that such a journey will not be easy in any case. Will have to spend a large number of effort and money both for its planning and implementation. It is necessary to take into account all the nuances: how to get there (purchase tickets in advance, but be prepared for the fact that, for example, due to weather conditions you will have to stay on the islands); where and how to live; be sure to take care of communications and carefully collect everything necessary, but not unnecessary; check your health and have the necessary medications with you.
Of course, the islands are currently inhabited by scientists, reserve workers, and villagers from Nikolskoye, so they cannot be called completely uninhabited, yet this is not a trip to the desert where there is not a soul. In the village you can easily buy food and spend the night; local residents and reserve staff are usually friendly to inquisitive and polite tourists; a big advantage is that this is Russia, which means there will be no language problems. But if you have planned a trip to the Commander Islands, you must immediately understand that such a trip is not carried out for the sake of relaxation in comfort, but for the sake of knowledge, getting to know wildlife, and in some ways, even overcoming oneself.
However, if you decide to go on a trip to the Commander Islands, you will not regret it. After all, no other place will give you such pure impressions of pristine and exotic northern nature!
