While climbing Mera Peak and Island Peak awaits you. Climbing Razdelnaya Peak (6148 m) Preparation for climbing Lenin Peak

Climbing Lenin Peak is a great way to push the boundaries of your usual lifestyle, test your capabilities, get a high dose of adrenaline and amazing emotions, and once again be convinced that “the only thing better than mountains can be mountains that you have never been to before.”

• 6 years of experience in organizing climbs to Lenin Peak
• Dozens of climbers of different ages who have been to the summit
• Upon completion, a certificate of ascent is issued, as well as a commemorative badge of the tourist club

Lenin Peak (7,134 meters) is the second highest peak in the Pamirs after Communism. Located in the central part of the Trans-Alai Range. This area is characterized by severe glaciation and unstable meteorological conditions. At the same time, this is the simplest seven-thousander in the CIS countries.

The top of Lenin Peak will be your victory over harsh natural conditions, will delight you with the fantastic landscapes that open up, and will remain in happy memories of unforgettable days.

Frequently asked questions about climbing Lenin Peak

Why is the ascent so long?

The experience of climbing Lenin Peak suggests that there is little point in stretching out the “pleasure” for 3 weeks, as many do. Indeed, in fact, more often climbers spend the same 14-16 days on the mountain, and then wait for their flight home in the city of Osh or spend extra nights at Base Camp.

Time savings are achieved by resting before the ascent not in Base Camp (3800 meters), but in Camp-1 (4400 meters). The distance between the camps is quite large, with overcoming the Travelers Pass, i.e. the path includes ascents and descents. Going back and forth takes a lot of energy. Many, despite the 21-day program, also prefer to stay with us in Camp-1. Thanks to the possibility of delivering cargo on horseback, Camp-1 is well supplied, there is a cafe, a shower and other amenities.

In all other respects, we have a standard program for climbing Lenin Peak, which includes 2 reserve days.

Why is the cost of climbing Lenin Peak so low?

Our ascent to Lenin Peak is one of the cheapest, as it includes the minimum necessary set of services for a successful ascent. The difference in cost is achieved by spending the night in our tents on the territory of stationary mountaineering camps (BC and Camp-1), we pay for them - in return we have access to the camp infrastructure (toilet, dining room, wardroom). We cook on the burners ourselves, buying tea and other small things in the camps, for which they let us into the canteens. We also send part of the cargo on horseback from the base camp to Camp-1.

Why choose us?

Our offer includes the most complete list of services at the lowest cost. There are no additional costs other than those indicated.

If you are a group of 8 or more people, we will conduct this route on dates convenient for you.

This route has been successfully completed by our club many times, all organizational details have been checked and worked out to the smallest detail..

Reliability

Our tourist club is officially registered, enters into contracts and pays taxes. Experienced instructors on the routes. Only modern and high-quality equipment is used.

Great climb

Your personal manager will advise you at all stages of preparation, help you get ready for your trip, and give recommendations on purchasing tickets and equipment..

Fill out the application and, closer to the start, make a small advance (from 10%) in the most convenient way for you. The rest of the amount is due on the start day.

Those who go on a hike with our tourist club for the second or more time receive a discount on participation of 5-10% or more.

1. Route and requirements 2. Hiking plan 3. Cost of participation 4. Equipment recommendations

Route:

Our route is the most popular, classic - it starts from the base camp on the Achik-Tash plateau. This place was called "Onion Glade" because of the abundance of wild onions growing everywhere.

Osh city - Sary-Tash city - Sary-Mogol village - Onion Glade base camp - Lenin Peak (7,134 meters) - Sary-Mogol village - Sary-Tash city - Osh city.

Required documents: Passport. A month before the start of the route, you need to send a scan of your passport to obtain passes to the border zone.

Physical training requirements for participants: The ascent is quite difficult both technically and physically, there are large differences in altitude, therefore it requires good physical fitness and experience in high-altitude ascents to peaks of 4000-5000 meters. The best option is to have experience in climbing Elbrus

1 day

Gathering of climbing participants in the largest city in the south of Kyrgyzstan - Osh. We are staying in a guest house 30 minutes from the airport. Nearby are cafes and shops. If you wish, you can take a walk to the sacred mountain Suleiman-To (1110 meters), located almost in the very center of the city of Osh.

Day 2

Transfer to the Achiktash base camp (3,800 meters). The interesting journey takes 6-8 hours. Along the way is the Taldyk automobile pass, with an altitude of about 3600 meters. Next we descend into the wide, high-mountainous Alai Valley. On the left along the way is the powerful Trans-Alai ridge of the Pamirs, which frames the southern part of the Alai Valley with a wall for many kilometers. The final hour of the drive is on a dirt road. Lenin Peak Base Camp consists of several autonomous stationary camps at a considerable distance from each other. We are located near one of them. It’s quite comfortable here - there is a cafe, mobile Internet, paid showers.

Day 3

Rest day, walk to the Travelers Pass (4,100 meters). Travelers Pass is located on the way from Base Camp to Camp-1. The path to it passes through Onion Glade and further along the scree. There is a good trail all along. A leisurely climb takes 2-3 hours. Descent along the ascent path. We'll have lunch at Base Camp. In the afternoon, rest, we prepare part of the cargo and products to be sent on horseback to Camp-1.

4 day

Transfer to camp 1 (4,400 meters). The crossing section is quite long, taking 6-8 hours depending on preparation. At the beginning you have to climb the Travelers Pass (4100 meters) again, then a sharp descent and along the path along the slope. Closer to the camp there is an easy ford across the stream. Camp 1 is located on a glacier moraine. Even in summer, precipitation here is often in the form of snow, which melts on clear days.

5 day

Acclimatization ascent to Yukhina Peak (5130 meters). The scree peak has an approximate difficulty of 1B. First we climb the moraine ridge (200 meters). We cross a small snowfield. Next, a serpentine climb with self-belaying poles to a high rocky-talus slope. The peak itself is snowy. Bonus for everyone who came up - there is cellular coverage and even weak mobile Internet. There is no connection in Camp 1. Descent along the ascent path. The ascent takes 5-7 hours.

Day 6

Transfer to Camp-2 (5300 meters). It is preferable to leave early in the morning. Technically one of the most interesting sections on the route. You will have to climb the glacier through a zone of powerful faults and numerous cracks. Movement in ropes, in crampons with self-belaying ice axes. In some places there are stationary railings - depending on the season. Every year the configuration of the cracks changes slightly. Above is the famous “frying pan” - the concave part of the glacier, which in clear weather, like a lens, reflects the sun’s rays and makes staying here especially “hot”. From here you can already see the view of Camp 2. By the way, in good weather there is cellular coverage here. Next is a flat section and we come to the foot of the mountain 30 years of the Uzbek SSR (5688 meters). Here on the slope are the tents of Camp 2. The transition Camp-1 - Camp-2 takes 5-8 hours, usually the second time the ascent is 1-2 hours faster.

Day 7

Acclimatization climb to the Razdelnaya peak - 6148 meters. The route begins with a steep climb up the slope of the mountain 30 years of the Uzbek SSR. Climbing it takes on average 1-2 hours. You can go to the top itself - its height is 5688 meters - it’s very close. After reaching the ridge there is a long flat section. Next is a sharp takeoff to the Razdelnaya peak (6148 meters). A monotonous climb up a snowy slope of ~300 meters. Sometimes there is a lot of snow, you have to trail. The climb to the Razdelnaya peak from Camp 2 takes 4-6 hours. Descent along the ascent route to Camp 2.

Day 8

Descent from Camp-2 (5300 meters) to Camp-1 (4400 meters). It is preferable to go out early in the morning, before the snow becomes soft and the snow bridges are more reliable. The descent along the ascent path taken the day before yesterday takes 2-3 hours.

Day 9

Rest day in Camp-1 (4400 meters). Some groups go to rest before the decisive ascent to Base Camp. The downside is that it is quite far away (a day's journey). In recent years, more and more climbers prefer to stay in Camp 1 before the assault. The conditions are quite comfortable. Horses regularly carry loads, the camps are well supplied - there is a cafe, paid showers and other amenities.

10 day

Transfer to camp 2 (5,300 meters). Early departure is preferred. The second time, acclimatized participants usually ascend 20% faster than 3 days ago when first ascending to Camp 2.

Day 11

Transfer to camp 3 (6,100 meters). Rising 4-6 hours. The camp is located on a wide snowy peak. From here an endless panorama of the Pamirs opens to the south. The route to Lenin Peak is also clearly visible.

12 day

Climbing Lenin Peak (7134 meters). Early departure at 4-5 am. Descent to the saddle, then take off over firn snow and rocky slope to 6400 meters. In rare cases, assault camps are also sometimes set up here. The downside of this place is frequent strong winds. A long, gentle section of a wide slope. Higher up the slope narrows and the takeoff along a narrow snow ridge is a “knife”. This place is considered the most dangerous at the final stage of the ascent. The height is 200 meters. Then exit to the pre-summit plateau, height 6900-7000 meters. The site is very long. In bad weather, navigation is difficult. In conclusion, there are steep rocks. The total time to overcome the summit dome is 2-3 hours, and the total time from Camp-3 on the top of Razdelnaya to the top of Lenin Peak is 7-9 hours. In good weather, other seven-thousanders of the Pamirs are visible in the distance: Korzhenevskaya Peak and Communism Peak. The descent along the ascent path is usually 2 times faster - 3-5 hours. Since overnight stays on Razdolnaya are not comfortable, it is important to go to Camp-2 at 5300 meters after a 1-2 hour rest. The path no longer seems so difficult and takes up to 2 hours.

Day 13

Spare day.

Day 14

Spare day.

Day 15

Descent from Camp-2 to Camp-1, transition to Base Camp. The descent to Camp 1 takes ~2 hours. You can have a snack here. We take off all the equipment (systems, crampons, helmets, etc.) and head further down. With every hundred meters of descent, the body comes to life. The trek to Achiktash Base Camp takes ~4 hours. In the afternoon, towards evening, the group descends to Base Camp. There is no longer any point in spending the night here; it is better to have a late festive dinner in Osh (6 hours drive away). Usually we get there by 10-12 pm.

Day 16

Departure of the ascent participants to their homes.

The route or schedule along the route can be adjusted on the spot, based on weather conditions, the preparedness of the group and other circumstances.

Program cost: 53 900 rub.

Included in the price:

• Accommodation in Osh city: night before and night after ascent
• Transfer Osh - Base Camp and back (by car)
• Meals along the route (we cook ourselves on burners), breakfast in the city of Osh on the second day and dinner on the day of return from BC
• Group equipment (gas, burner, pharmacy, etc.)
• Accommodation at Base Camp (3,800 meters)
• Registration of a pass to the border zone
• Any fees for staying in the mountains
• Instructor

The price does NOT include:

• Flight to Osh city and back
• Meals in the city of Osh before and after climbing (except as indicated), while moving (roadside cafes)
• Cafe at the Achiktash base camp (optional)
• Other expenses not covered by the program

Clothes and shoes:

• Sneakers, flip flops, trekking boots;
• Insulated boots for assault;
• Gaiters or shoe covers with galoshes;
• Socks: 3-5 pairs of cotton, 3 pairs of wool or insulated;
• Thermal underwear top + bottom;
• 2 pairs of pants, trekking trousers (membrane, fleece, etc.);
• Windproof pants, raincoat;
• T-shirts 2-3 pieces, warm jacket or sweater 2-3 pieces;
• Jacket with a hood, anorak, down vest;
• Warm down jacket with a hood;
• Gloves, insulated gloves or mittens;
• Several hats, a cap or bandana, a balaclava;

Lenin Peak is located in the Pamir mountain system on the border of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, until 1928 it was called Kaufman Peak. In 2006, by decision of the Government of Tajikistan, it was renamed to the peak named after Abu Ali ibn Sina - in honor of the famous Persian scientist and philosopher, known in Europe as Avicenna.
This mountain, 7134 meters high, is the highest peak of the Trans-Alay Range and one of the three seven-thousanders in Kyrgyzstan. Two other seven-thousanders - Pobeda Peak (7439 m) and Khan Tengri (7010 m) are also incredibly popular among climbers around the world, but it is Lenin Peak that is most accessible to mass mountaineering. There are no particular technical difficulties here and the weather conditions in this area of ​​the Pamirs are quite favorable.

But we should not forget that Lenin Peak is, after all, a seven-thousander. The main difficulties climbers face on the way to the top are altitude, low temperatures and periods of bad weather. If you have never been to the mountains before, it is worth starting with lower mountains, for example, Elbrus, Kazbek or Kilimanjaro, to find out how your body reacts to high altitude conditions.

On this journey you will be accompanied by a guide from the Elbrus Tours company, duringPerhaps you have already met him on the slopes of Elbrus or Kazbek. The ascent will take 21 days, and on the way to the top the group will alternately climb to four camps located at different altitudes, climbing 3 mountains at once during the tour - Yukhin Peak, Razdelnaya Peak and Lenin Peak. At your service are pack animal drivers, porters, and hospitable cooks. All you have to do is admire the snow-white peaks of the Pamirs and get acquainted with the local cuisine and customs. Forget about everything that weighs on you in everyday life, open up to the future
I’m speaking to fresh emotions and impressions!

Dates of 21-day tours to Lenin Peak (7134 m, Kyrgyzstan) with guides from Elbrus Tours:
July 7 - July 27, 2019
July 21 - August 10, 2019
August 4 - August 24, 2019

Cost of the tour with climbing 3 peaks of the Pamirs:

$2100,0 , including erected tents in assault camps 2 and 3.
When booking tours until January 15, 2019: tour cost from$1848,0 (discount for 1 client - 10%, for 2 or more - 12%).
Prepayment for the tour: $500,0.

Program (21 days)

Day 1. Arrival in Osh by any flight, hotel accommodation

Arrival in Osh and hotel accommodation. Osh is one of the oldest cities in Central Asia; the Great Silk Road once passed here.

If there are no convenient or inexpensive flights, you can arrive the next day, going to Base Camp immediately after arrival (if necessary, you will have time to buy everything you need along the way, in shops or at the market).

Day 2. Transfer Osh - Achik-Tash base camp.

After breakfast, we will have a long transfer (about 6 hours) to the Achik-Tash base camp, located at an altitude of 3600 m. You will be given a lunch pack for the trip. At the base camp - accommodation in double tents with wooden flooring, equipped with electrical sockets, individual lighting (table lamps), mattresses, blankets, pillows and bed linen (duvet covers, pillowcases, sheets). The dining room is equipped in a cozy yurt, equipped with high-quality dishes, and quality food is provided, including vegetarian options. The yurts - wardrooms - have heating and everything necessary for relaxation (musical instruments, board games). Electricity, shower, sauna, toilet, luggage storage are provided free of charge. Satellite telephone and internet are available for a fee.

Day 3. Acclimatization walk in the vicinity of the base camp. After the walk- checking equipment.

Day 4. Acclimatization hike to Petrovsky Peak (4000 m).

Today our goal is the shoulder of Petrovsky Peak, we go out light. First, our path runs through green alpine meadows, then along rocky screes. After a snack with delicious tea from a thermos, we return back to Achik-Tash and have lunch. The entire trek will take about 4 hours.

After lunch at the camp, we select products, receive gas cylinders and a set of products for the entire program, pack and weigh our cargo for transportation on pack animals to Camp 1. You can also rent a burner and a saucepan for self-cooking in Camps 2 and 3.

Day 5. Transfer to Camp 1 (4400 m).

Today we leave the hospitable Achik-Tash camp and move to Camp 1, located at an altitude of 4400 m. The transition takes 6-8 hours. Most of the equipment, expedition cargo and food are transported to the first camp on horses, which can be rented in advance at the base camp for an additional fee. Overnight at Camp 1. Accommodation in large double tents with wooden flooring, thermal insulation, and foam mattresses. Camp 1 provides free electricity, a toilet, a luggage room, as well as (for a fee) a shower, a satellite telephone and the Internet. The dining room is also equipped in the yurt.

Day 6. Acclimatization hike to Yukhina Peak (5130 m)

Continuation of acclimatization with an ascent to Yukhina Peak (5130 m). Descent to Camp 1.

Day 7. Rest day at Camp 1 (4400 m).

Another day of acclimatization at an altitude of 4400 m. Checking equipment for tomorrow's hike, packing things. Snow and ice activities.

Day 8. Transfer and delivery of equipment to Camp 2 (5300 m).

Early departure at night to safely overcome the avalanche-prone section of the Lenin Glacier. Movement is carried out in crampons and bundles. If desired, you can use the services of porters for an additional fee. Travel time is 6-8 hours. In Camps 2 and 3 - accommodation in assault tents for 2-3 people, cooking independently. Overnight at Camp 2.

Day 9. Acclimatization trip and overnight in Camp 3 (6100 m).

Early departure and ascent to Camp 3 at an altitude of 6100 m (travel time about 6 hours). Overnight at Camp 3.

Day 10. Early departure, ascent to Razdelnaya peak (6148 m). Descent to Camp 1 (4400 m).

Day 11. Descent to base camp (3600 m).

Day 12. Rest day at base camp (3600 m).

Day 13. Rest day at base camp (3600 m).

Day 14. Early departure to Camp 2 (5300 m).

Day 15. Acclimatization trip to Camp 3 (6100 m).

Day 16. Climbing to the top of Lenin Peak (7134 m), descent to Camp 3 (6100 m). Early departure at 2 - 3 hours, rise takes 10 - 12 hours. Descent to camp 3 (4 – 6 hours). Overnight at camp 3.

Day 17. Reserve day.

Day 18. Descent to Camp 1.
Departure at 9 am, descent to Camp 2, short rest, snack, descent to Camp 1 (7-8 hours). Overnight at Camp 1.

Day 19. Descent to base camp.

Day 20. Transfer base camp “Achik-Tash” - Osh. Hotel accommodation.

Day 21. Departure from Osh airport.

The tour price includes:

Meeting and seeing off at Osh airport;

Transfer around the city of Osh: airport – hotel and back;

Accommodation in a hotel in Osh 2 nights (double occupancy + breakfast);

Transfer from Osh city to Achik-Tash base camp (3700 meters) and back;

Meals on the way (lunch) when moving Osh - Achik-Tash and back;

Accommodation on the territory of the Achik-Tash base camp: accommodation in double tents with mattresses for an unlimited number of days (within the program 21 days);

Accommodation on the territory of Camp No. 1 (4400 m): accommodation in tents with mats and flooring for an unlimited number of days (within the program 21 days);

Meals (full board) at the Achik-Tash base camp for an unlimited number of days (within the framework of the 21-day program). The cook prepares the food.

Meals (full board) in Camp No. 1 (4400 m) for an unlimited number of days (within the program of 21 days). The cook prepares the food.

Use of a dining room, toilet, shower, water, garbage disposal, storage room;

Using electricity to charge batteries of photo and video equipment;

Doctor’s consultations, first aid, organization of rescue operations at the expense of the participants’ insurance;

Registration of mandatory documents (pass to the border zone, all necessary registrations and permits);

Environmental fees;

Accompanying a professional high-altitude mountaineering guide from the Elbrus Tours company (1 guide for 3 clients);

Gas (sufficient number of cylinders for cooking in high-altitude camps) – 3 pcs.;

Installed 2-3-person high-altitude tents in Camps No. 2 and 3;

Kitchen equipment for self-cooking in Camps No. 2 and 3 (1 gas burner and 2 pots);

Transportation of public cargo on horses: “Achik-Tash” - Camp No. 1 (4400 m) in the amount of 30 kg (15 kg one way, 15 kg back);

Food for self-cooking (in high-altitude camps No. 2 and 3);

• Climbing certificates for each peak
  

The price does not include:

Flights

Transportation of personal equipment on horseback: “Achik-Tash” - Camp No. 1 (4200 m). Estimated costs: (1 kg – 3 dollars).

Individual climbing insurance (the insured amount must cover rescue work in the Pamir mountain system and be at least 30,000 US dollars or Euro). An insurance assistant in Kyrgyzstan SHOULD NOT BE GLOBAL VOYAGER– check this when applying for a policy!

All personal expenses (extra baggage fees, room service, medical expenses, insurance, etc.)

Equipment rental

Cost of porter services:

BC (3600m) – Camp 1 (4200m): $3 per 1 kg

Camp 1 (4400m) – Camp 2 (5400m): $10 per 1 kg

Camp 2 (5400m) – Camp 3 (6100m): $20 per 1 kg

Above Camp 3 (6100 m): $35 per 1 kg

ATTENTION!

If a participant decides to leave the route early, he can go down to one of the lower camps and wait there for the group to return without additional payment. The company cannot guarantee the ascent to the top of Lenin Peak and is not responsible for the termination of the ascent due to bad weather, insufficient physical fitness or health conditions of the participants.

SAFETY: The guide has the necessary skills and equipment to ensure the safety of group members along the route. He has a first aid kit and a walkie-talkie to communicate with the lower camps, where a rescue squad is on duty. The victims are taken downstairs, where they are treated by a staff physician. If necessary, transportation by helicopter is used.

REQUIRED DOCUMENTS: Russian citizens do not require a visa to enter Kyrgyzstan. A foreign passport or an internal passport of a citizen of the Russian Federation is sufficient. The Lenin Peak area is located in a border area where a border pass is issued. Registration of a border pass takes up to 1 month, so you must submit your passport details in advance. You need climbing insurance that meets the following requirements:

1) the insurance assistant SHOULD NOT BE GLOBAL VOYAGER
2) the insurance policy amount is at least 30,000 US dollars
3) in the “occupation” (or “sports”) field, “MOUNTEIN CLIMBING” must be indicated.
4) host country Kyrgyzstan (Kyrgyzstan)
5) the dates of the insurance policy must coincide with the dates of stay in Kyrgyzstan
6) the insurance policy must cover “transportation of the injured person” (check this when applying for the policy).

REQUIREMENTS FOR PARTICIPANTS: There are no medical contraindications to mountain sports and high-altitude mountaineering. Age limit: at least 18 years old. Good physical fitness.

ACCOMMODATIONS: In the city of Osh - accommodation in a 2-3* guest house in double rooms with breakfast; in the Achik-Tash base camp in yurts or in permanent tents, in Camp No. 1 - accommodation in permanent tents. At the Achik-Tash base camp and Camp No. 1 there is electricity, toilet, shower, sauna, and satellite phone. In camps 2 and 3 - accommodation in high-altitude tents.

NUTRITION: At the Achik-Tash base camp and Camp No. 1, food is prepared by a cook (meals at the Achik-Tash base camp and Camp No. 1 are included in the tour price); in high-altitude camps, we cook food on gas burners ourselves from a high-altitude set of products (food and gas are included in the tour price).

TRANSPORT: Transfers from Osh to Achik-Tash and back are carried out by minibuses.

CONNECTION: There is a satellite phone in the Achik-Tash camp and Camp No. 1, mobile networks are not available.

This article was written as a summary of all the useful materials I found in preparation for climbing Lenin Peak in 2016. It is not an instruction for ascent, and is not the ultimate truth, it is just a generalization of some articles on this topic. Remember that staying in the mountains can be life-threatening, if you do not have enough experience, it is better to use the services of local guides and travel agencies than to add to the list of accidents.

Lenin Peak is a mountain peak, height 7134m, located on the border of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan.

Until 1928, the mountain was called Kaufman Peak, and since 2006, the government of Tajikistan changed the name of the mountain to Abu Ali ibn Sina Peak. But the old name Lenin Peak remains in use.

Lenin Peak is one of the “seven thousand meters” - the highest peaks of the former USSR and one of the highest peaks in Central Asia. Lenin Peak is located in the Pamir mountain system, in the north of the Himalaya mountain range. The Pamirs are the highest mountain system in the south of the former USSR.

The Lenin Peak massif is located between the Razdelny pass (height 6080m) in the west and the Krylenko pass (height 5820m) in the east, the length is 9,350 m, and from the western shoulder (6442m) to the eastern shoulder (6601m) the length is 6,370 m.

From the slopes of Lenin Peak to the north, the Lenin Glacier and the East Lenin Glacier flow to the Alai Valley, and the Bolshaya Saukdara, Malaya Saukdara and Dzerzhinsky Glaciers (from the western shoulder of the peak) flow to the south into the valley of the Sauksay River.

The top of Lenin Peak is a wide plateau that rises to the south. The highest point is located on the southern edge of this plateau next to the so-called “southern peak”. However, most climbers limit themselves to visiting the tour in the northern part of the plateau.

The first ascent of Lenin Peak was made in 1928 by German climbers Karl Wien, Eugene Allwein and Erwin Schneider (Bergsteiger).

The northern side of the Lenin Peak massif faces the Alai Valley, which is very convenient for access from Osh. And the southern slopes go out into a rather inaccessible area of ​​the Sauksay River, so almost all ascents to Lenin Peak are made from the north side.

Lenin Peak is characterized by strong winds on its ridge coming from the Razdelny Pass.

The best time to climb Lenin Peak is the second half of July and August. In September, conditions are also quite favorable, but the temperature is already lower than in August. Winter ascents to Lenin Peak are quite rare due to weather conditions and snow conditions; as a rule, they are made along the shortest route - “head-on” from the north.

Climbing route to Lenin Peak from the north along the route through Razdelnaya Peak

Driving to Lenin Peak along the classic route starts from the Base Camp, located at an altitude of 3500 m.

More precisely, several camps of various travel agencies are scattered on the ancient moraine, but this entire area is usually called by one name - base camp, also known as base camp or BC. There is still sparse vegetation in the form of grass and there is still enough air to breathe at a normal pace.

Trails begin from the camps of all travel agencies, which eventually merge into one road. This road goes up the valley and goes into a gorge from which a river flows on the right side of the valley (if you look up).

On the rocks at the entrance to the gorge there are memorial plaques about the climbers who died on Lenin Peak.

Along the gorge the trail runs parallel to the river to the Puteshestvennikov Pass (4200 m), through which you need to cross to the neighboring valley. Then the trail continues along the glacier to Camp 1 (4200 - 4400 m). Then the path goes through a glacier cut with cracks and a snow plateau “frying pan” to Camp 2 (5300m). The third camp is an assault camp, it is located at an altitude of 6100 m, on a lintel behind the Razdelnaya peak (6200 m). The further ascent passes along the ridge, through a plateau at 6400m, a snow-ice “knife” takeoff and pre-summit snow fields to the peak indicated by the tour.

Cost of climbing Lenin Peak

To climb Lenin Peak, you can use the services of one of the travel agencies that can be easily found on the Internet. The cost of such an ascent will be from 400 dollars per person, in the economy version, and up to several thousand. And we must take into account that this amount does not include the cost of a flight to Osh or Bishkek, equipment rental and much more.

The second option is an independent ascent to Lenin Peak. This option will be much cheaper, but it has its drawbacks. The main disadvantage is the lack of an experienced guide who can save your life in the event of a dangerous situation, although it may not, it all depends on the guide and the situation itself.

Approximate local currency exchange rate: 73 - 74 Kyrgyz soms per euro.

Below is a list of all expenses for the option of independent ascent in 2016:

• registration of a border pass to the Lenin Peak area - 40 euros per person
• insurance, I got about 20 euros
• flight Moscow - Osh - Moscow - from 250 euros, if taken for 3 months. and you still need to get to Moscow
• travel from Osh airport to the city - meeting on a travel agency minibus - 25 euros per bus or 8 euros per person, a taxi costs 200 - 400 soms (as you negotiate), which is approximately equal to 3-5 euros.
• transfer Osh - base camp Lenin Peak - Osh - 40 Euro one way per person by minibus from one of the travel agencies, total 80 Euro in both directions. You can take a taxi for about 50 euros one way.
• gas - in the base camp, a small Kovea cylinder (230 g) - 8 euros, an old refilled one 6 euros, a large cylinder (450 g) - 12 euros, in the camp alone all the cylinders are a couple of euros more expensive, but you can bargain everywhere
• possible expenses in the base camp (accommodation + food) - accommodation in your own tent - 1 euro per night, in a stationary yurt - 3 euros per night, lunch/dinner, approximately 6-7 euros.
• storage of things in the base camp and camp 1 - 10 euros per person for the entire period
• crossing the river on horseback - 5 euros or 5 dollars
• possible accommodation in Osh - the cheapest option, hotel "Rai" 350 soms per night + additional 50 soms per shower, normal options from 500 soms per night
• local fruits in Osh - peaches - 60 - 65 som per kg, grapes - 60 - 65 som per kg, figs - 100 som per 10 pieces
• food in a cafe in Osh - from 120 som per person

Preparing to climb Lenin Peak

Preparation for climbing Lenin Peak involves several different aspects, each of which plays a very important role in the success of the entire event. Here are the main areas of training:

• physical preparation - climbing requires enormous strength, therefore, without good physical shape, it will be very difficult and unsafe to complete it
• climbing tactics - it is necessary to think in advance about the timing of the ascent, the composition of the group, the acclimatization schedule, and many other organizational issues
• equipment - the lack of necessary equipment (including clothes and shoes) will not only prevent you from climbing, but can lead to such unpleasant consequences as frostbite, but do you need it?
• psychological preparation - you need to be prepared for all the difficulties and hardships that are inevitable while climbing Lenin Peak. The toughest challenge will be the heights. The main thing in climbing is to correctly calculate your strength and be able to either go further when possible, or turn back when necessary.

Also during preparation, you will need to apply for a border pass, since Lenin Peak is located in the border zone. And recently, in order to obtain a border pass, you must take out an insurance policy - that’s what I was told at the agency that handled this pass. They also sent the following list of demands:

Insurance policy requirements for Lenin Peak:

• 1) the insurance assistant SHOULD NOT BE GLOBAL VOYAGER
• 2) the amount of the insurance policy is at least $30,000
• 3) in the “occupation” (or “sports”) field, “MOUNTEIN CLIMBING” must be indicated.
• 4) host country Kyrgyzstan (Kyrgyzstan)
• 5) the dates of the insurance policy must coincide with the dates of stay in Kyrgyzstan
• 6) the insurance policy must cover “transportation of the victim” (check this when applying for the policy)
• 7) reliable insurance companies:
  • - RESO guarantee
  • - Surgutneftegaz
  • - Uralsib
  • - Sogaz
  • - Agreement
  • - Yugoria

Before applying for an insurance policy, be sure to check with which assistant this insurance company works.

I found two travel agencies that are ready to issue a border pass to Lenin Peak and provide transfer from Osh to the base camp:

• Turkestan Tour LLC, Sergey Pyshnenko, E-mail: , http: www.turkestan.biz
• "Fortune Tour", Ainura Madmarova, Email: This email address is being protected from spambots. You must have JavaScript enabled to view it.

Both seemed normal, there were no problems.

Physical training

In order for the ascent to bring pleasure and not turn into complete torture, you need to be in good physical shape. A person who sits in an office chair all day and has not played any sports in recent years will most likely not be able to rise to the top. Or, even worse, he won’t be able to get down from it. Moreover, training should be started not a couple of weeks before departure, this option will only do harm, but at least six months in advance, and it is best to do something constantly.

First of all, you need to train the circulatory and respiratory systems, that is, the heart and lungs, this is necessary to ensure the normal process of saturating the muscles with oxygen in conditions of low air pressure at altitude.

The best sports for this are those that provide moderate exercise over a long period of time, such as running, cycling, cross-country skiing, etc.
A lot of materials have been written on the topic of physical preparation before going to the mountains, from “classical” to experimental techniques. An example of a classic approach is the book “Mountaineering Techniques” (http://tourlib.net/books_tourism/gutman03.htm). Moscow 1939

An experimental technique of dubious benefit to the body (IMHO) - the acclimatization method of V.M. Bozhukov and A.K. Belopukhov - includes running in a gas mask and sitting in a plastic bag without access to oxygen...

The main factors that influence the results of training are that classes should be regular, a gradual and smooth process of increasing loads.

Climbing tactics

This includes all organizational issues related to the organization and process of ascension.

• Choosing a route - the main thing is to correctly assess your strengths and difficulties on the route in order to enjoy the hike, and most importantly, return home alive and healthy. If this is your first ascent to Lenin Peak, then it is best to choose the classic route through Razdelnaya Peak.
• Dates and timing of the trip. The optimal time for climbing is July - August, during this period the weather is most stable and most ascents of Lenin are made during this period.
• Drop-off and drop-off to the beginning/end of the route. The classic climb is the most convenient in terms of access. The most convenient way to get to the Achik-Tash base camp is from the city of Osh. Many travel agencies provide pick-up/drop-off services to the base camp of Lenin Peak, the cost is about 40 euros per person one way (2016). You can also hire a taxi from Osh, in some cases it can even be cheaper. You can get to Osh by plane from Moscow or Bishkek; the price of tickets greatly depends on the timing of purchase and the airline.
• Preparation of documents (border passes, visas, route sheets, etc.). Since Lenin Peak is located on the border of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, permission to visit the border zone is required to climb it from Kyrgyzstan. You can obtain a permit with the help of travel agencies, the cost is approximately 40 euros per person (2016). Documents for registration must be sent no later than a month before the trip.
• The composition of the group is a very important factor that influences the success of the ascent. If you are planning to use the services of a tour. company, then you most likely will not be able to influence the composition of the group, but choosing a group with a good and professional instructor is quite possible. If you plan to climb as part of a non-profit group, then you need to very carefully evaluate the strength of the group and the experience of the leader and all participants, especially if they do not have experience in climbing Lenin Peak.
• Maps/route description. If you are planning to climb Lenin Peak along the classic route during the season, then there is no special need for a map - a wide path will be trodden. But you need to look at Google images, maps and read the description of the climbing route to get an idea of ​​where to go and what awaits you on the route. A GPS with a map, track and coordinates of all camps will be very useful, so that you can navigate even in poor visibility conditions and find your way to the camp.
• Acclimatization schedule. A very important factor in the success of climbing Lenin Peak is obtaining high-altitude acclimatization. It is the process of obtaining acclimatization that will take most of the time of the entire trip. It’s good if you manage to first, before the ascent, get acclimatization during other ascents (for example, Elbrus or Mont Blanc) or by hiking along high mountain routes. .

Acclimatization schedule and duration of ascent to Lenin Peak

The best way to acclimatize for climbing Lenin Peak, as well as other peaks, is a gradual climb to altitude and subsequent descent to rest and recuperate. The number and duration of such acclimatization trips depends on your physical fitness, previous acclimatization and, in general, past high-altitude experience, and also, possibly, on individual characteristics and physical predisposition.

If you are an ordinary person who works in an office and does not climb to great heights in the mountains every month, then climbing a seven-thousander will not be an easy test. Probably the best option when climbing Lenin Peak would be to make several acclimatization trips with a gradual climb and descent.

For example, as a basis, you can adhere to the following acclimatization plan:

1. Radial exit base camp (3500 m) - camp 1 (4400 m) - base camp (3500 m)

2. Departure with an overnight stay in camp 1 (4400 m) and an ascent to the second camp (5300 m, possibly with an overnight stay in the second camp) followed by descent to camp 1 (4400 m)

3. Ascent from camp 1 to camp 2 and, the next day, a radial climb to the Razdelnaya peak (6100 m) followed by a descent to camp 1 or to the base camp with a rest day at the bottom

4. Assault exit from the base camp or camp 1 to the top of Lenin Peak with an overnight stay on the Razdelnaya peak.

This method of ascent, although correct from the point of view of acclimatization, takes quite a lot of time, especially if you reserve spare days in case of bad weather. This option will require at least three weeks, including travel. But if you don't have any high-altitude experience or prior acclimatization, but want to increase your chances of climbing, then this schedule is worth considering.

But if you consider yourself strong enough and physically resilient, or you have the opportunity to get acclimatization somewhere else before climbing Lenin Peak, for example, climb Elbrus, Kazbek, or for example, as in my case, Mont Blanc, then you can try It will take two weeks plus a couple of spare days.

Considering that I already had initial acclimatization, I developed my ascent schedule:

1 day - arrival at the base camp - radial exit to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4100 m)

Day 2 - transition from the base camp to camp 1 (4400 m)

Day 3 - transition from camp 1 to camp 2 (5300 m)

Day 4 - radial trek from camp 2 to Razdelnaya peak (6100 m)

Day 5 - descent from camp 2 to the base camp

Day 6 - rest in the base camp

Day 7 - transition from the base camp to camp 1

Day 8 - transition from camp 1 to camp 2

Day 9 - transition from camp 2 to camp 3 on the Razdelnaya peak (6100 m)

Day 10 - assault on the top of Lenin Peak 7134 m with descent to camp 3 on Razdelnaya

Day 11 - spare day, in my case the second climb to the top

Day 12 - descent from camp 3 to camp 1

Day 13 - descent from camp 1 to the base camp

The schedule is quite tight, with almost no spare days, and quite physically difficult, so it’s still better to count on more days.

Equipment for climbing Lenin Peak

Climbing Lenin Peak requires a completely standard set of equipment, as for all such ascents. Unless the sleeping bag, clothes and shoes should be designed for weather conditions and temperatures at Lenin Peak.

• tent - the main requirement is that it be wind-resistant and generally reliable. . In the base camp, camp 1 and camp 2 there are usually no strong winds, but in camp 3, on the top of Razdelnaya there is almost always a very strong wind, especially at night.
• sleeping bag (sleeping bag) - everything is simple here too, the warmer and lighter the better. It is necessary to expect that the sleeping bag has a minimum “extreme temperature” of -25 -30 degrees. Most likely, it won’t be so cold at the height of the summer season, but anything can happen. A down sleeping bag for this temperature will be noticeably lighter than a synthetic one, but also much more expensive.
• Mat - Camp 2 and Camp 3 are located on snow, so the mat should be warm enough to sleep in those conditions. An ordinary “Izhevsk” rug will not be enough. It is better to use mats made of modern materials with low thermal conductivity or inflatable mats.
• a backpack for climbing Lenin Peak should be roomy enough to fit all your belongings, food and other equipment. But at the same time comfortable and not very heavy. How to choose a backpack for climbing can be read in this article. It is also convenient to have some kind of duffel bag - a transport trunk, which can be left as a drop off in one of the camps.

If you are going to climb not alone, but at least as a couple, then it is better to take two tents with you. In this case, during the first acclimatization trip, you can leave one tent in Camp 1, and bring the second one to Camp 2, and then during the assault trip you will not have to carry the tent up to Camp 2 and this will save energy for climbing to the top. In addition, in camp 2 and below there is usually not very strong wind, so you can use a simpler tent there, and already in camp 3 on the top of Razdelnaya it is better to use a more wind-resistant tent.

Here is an approximate list of equipment for climbing Lenin Peak:

Clothes and shoes:

• high-altitude boots - maybe special ones for high-altitude ascents, good plastic ones, I wore leather ones, but with additional warm shoe covers
• sneakers for approaches - from the base camp to the first camp it is quite possible to walk in sneakers, unless of course there is a lot of fresh snow
• socks, two or more pairs - trekking and warm for sleeping
• storm windproof jacket
• puff - there's nothing to do without a good puff
• fleece - or something from Polartek
• storm pants, windproof or softshell - the main thing is that they are not blown through
• thin trekking pants - up to the top of Separate, in good weather, it is quite possible to go in thin trekking pants
• thermal underwear is thin and thick - starting from the first camp you can wear it without taking it off until going down
• thin gloves
• the mittens are warm - the warmer the better, mittens will be better than gloves
• hat + buff or balaclava or bandana

Special equipment:

• cats
• ice ax
• a safety system - in principle, it is only needed on the way from the first to the second camp. where the trail goes along the glacier through the cracks
• lanyard mustache
• carbines
• rope for ligaments
• lowering and lifting device (but in principle you can do without them if you are lucky and no one falls into the crack)

Other equipment:

• mountain goggles or a ski mask - glasses are better at the bottom, from Razdelnaya to the top of Lenin Peak a mask is better - due to the strong wind
• A thermos is a very useful and convenient thing, especially when climbing to the top
• burner - it is better to use a jetboil, MSR reactor or similar systems; on Razdelnaya you need to melt the snow; in camp 2 you can find a stream of water
• dishes - mug, plate, spoon, knife, possibly a cooking pot, if not using a jetboil/MSR reactor
• GPS with maps and recorded track to the summit, it is very easy to get lost on the pre-summit dome, especially in poor visibility + spare batteries
• a watch preferably with an altimeter - very convenient to keep track of time and altitude while traveling
• sun cream - must have a protection factor of 50+, apply from the very beginning to the very end, do not forget to smear the chin and lower part of the nose so as not to burn from the sun reflected by the snow
• flashlight - going out to storm the summit usually before dawn or right before dawn
• first aid kit - standard set + vitamins + rehydron, it can be added to melt water to replenish the supply of salts in the body

- Zhenya, why was Peak Communism attractive to you, why did you dream about it?

Oh! Well, this mountain can be called iconic. There are peaks that are known to everyone; ordinary people know about them, although they do not climb. Even when I was not involved in mountaineering, the peak of Communism was on everyone’s lips, like Ushba, Elbrus, and Everest. Other names appeared in my mind when I wanted to become a climber and began to become more interested in mountains.

My father also had an album with photographs of mountains; he was always interested in photography. The album contained a photograph of Peak Communism and the Fedchenko Glacier. Then I learned in more detail what Communism Peak is, where it is located, and learned a brief history of the development of the area. We can say that this mountain has attracted me since my youth. And when I started mountaineering, Communism Peak immediately fell into my list of desired goals.

If among our (i.e. in the CIS) five seven-thousanders we rank them according to difficulty, where does the peak of Communism stand?

In my opinion, Peak Communism ranks third in difficulty. The simplest is Lenin Peak, then Korzhenevskaya Peak, Communism Peak. And only then - Khan Tengri and Pobeda Peak. Victory is the most difficult mountain.

Last time we spoke, you were glad that there was a chance to fulfill one of your dreams - and now it has come true! You meant exactly the peak of Communism. How did you feel standing at the top?

A very common question I get asked is: “How do you feel standing at the top?” I felt very tired and hungry. The fact is that the weather made adjustments to the tactical plans of our ascent, and we had to fast for three days. Those. The supply of food for the camps was calculated as we wanted, but it turned out a little differently, precisely because of the weather. The climb turned out to be quite exhausting. Yes, of course, there was joy from the achieved goal, it did not leave us even at the moment of descent to the base, after the summit. But the first seconds of jubilation at the top are quickly replaced by thoughts about the upcoming descent. The goal is fully achieved when, after reaching the summit, the team descends to base camp without incident.

How did the team work, how did the guys cope with the difficulties of the climb? Please tell us about your guys.

There were five of us, including me. I already knew two of my guys. These are Lilya Bogucharova and Sasha Markelov, both of them are from Voronezh. We have been traveling to different mountains for a long time, and we have been together in many places. We met the third participant, Andrei Tatarov, last year, here, in the Moskvina clearing. Then he arrived alone, but we carried loads together on the peak of E. Korzhenevskaya. Then he tried to go to the Peak of Communism with other participants in the training camp, but did not reach the top. And so, this year I took part in our group, believing that as part of a group there is a greater chance of success, and everything is much better organized.

My fourth participant, whom I did not know until this moment, is Misha Turovsky, my fellow countryman from Pyatigorsk, he has behind him a completely closed project “Seven Summits”, experience in climbing peaks around the world, as well as several seven-thousanders. I didn’t doubt for long whether it was worth taking a person with such a wealth of experience into the group, especially since he had excellent recommendations. So the team turned out to be experienced; everyone, which is important, had the ability to psychologically perceive each other for such a long time.

As for physical fitness, the guys were quite strong. The only thing is that our plans were greatly adjusted by the weather, and two guys from the group did not climb the mountain, they went down from a height of 6800. And with two of us we managed to reach the top.

- What stages did the path to the top of the peak consist of, what was the acclimatization schedule?

We planned to acclimatize quite well. Plus, these were actually the first exits from Polyana Moskvina (base camp of Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak, 4,400 m) this season, so we helped the guides working there in processing the route. They lifted ropes and some necessary loads. The acclimatization schedule was drawn up quite loyally.

We flew by helicopter to Base Camp on July 27. First we spent the night at an altitude of 5,100 m. Then we went down. Moreover, due to the weather, we had to spend the night not on the slopes of Communism Peak, as planned, but on the slopes of Vorobyov Peak, which is nearby. We went for acclimatization at 5300, also to Vorobyov Peak. Then we returned to Base Camp to rest. The second acclimatization trip was already at the peak of Communism, up to an altitude of 6300. We spent the night on the “chests”, there is such a place there. Then we went down to Basic and rested for three days. And the third exit was an assault, with access to the top.

- Were you lucky with the weather, how did you cope with weather difficulties?

The snowstorms were simply terrible - the snow was falling and the wind was strong... We sat. waited in tents. In the first days of the assault, the weather was quite good, but higher up, when we began to climb to the firn plateau, at 6300 and higher, up to 6800, to Dushanbe Peak, snowfalls and winds began. In the highest camp in tents, at an altitude of 7,000 m, guys we knew had been sitting before us for several days; the weather did not allow them to even storm the summit. I had to go downstairs with nothing. We were a little luckier, the weather improved, giving us a chance.

- Did you have a connection, satellite phones? Did you call anyone from the top?

Yes, there was a satellite phone, we called from the slopes “to the mainland,” to relatives and friends, and found out the weather forecasts. They didn't call from the top, of course. To be honest, there was no time for that, it was cold at the top.

- Was there a danger of avalanches or rockfalls?

There was an avalanche danger, especially after snowfalls. This was the reason that during the first acclimatization trip we were unable to drag the payload into the assault camps on the slopes of Communism Peak. There is such a place “Pillow” - a snow plateau under the walls of the massif. You need to walk along the Podushka with a slight climb, and then go directly to the ascent. So, everything that flies along the walls: ice, snow, stones - all this junk falls right here, on the “cushion”.

On our first trip, when we spent the night on the “Helipad” (in front of Podushka), it snowed all night, and the next morning we, of course, were afraid to go there. As for the upper part, there was also quite an avalanche danger there. Almost before the summit there is another place, “Shovel”, it is indicated on the graph; in some places there was an avalanche danger, and we sometimes had to move in knee-deep snow. The tracks of the guys from the “Vysota” team, who walked the route 5-6 days ago and practically dug a trench through deep snow, helped a lot. By the time we arrived, the trench was, of course, already blowing, but by touch we could follow the tracks, and this greatly increased safety - there was less chance that we would trigger an avalanche.

- What was the task of the expedition specifically for you as a guide?

First of all, for me it is responsibility for the participants who trusted me. After all, at the moment I am working for them, I am their leader, guide, conductor. Call me whatever you want, but the essence does not change; my task is to build competent climbing tactics suitable for each member of the group. I also need, relying on my experience, to ensure safety on the route and prevent situations that could cause harm to the health or life of my guys. I am very worried about this, I worry, I try to predict and eliminate moments, even the most insignificant ones, that could affect the successful outcome of our event. For me and for my colleagues, of course, it is important that all participants achieve their goal, but it is even more important that they all return home healthy and unharmed, having received positive experience and skills from the trip that may be useful to them in further ascents. This is my task as the leader of the group.

- What was the biggest technical difficulty?

To be honest, for me the most technically difficult thing was the summit tower itself - about 40 meters. There were incredibly strong winds, the snow was blown away, a very hard firn was formed, a steep slope that fell on two sides, forming a “knife”, and it was not easy to move along this knife. Again, I was afraid for the participants, I am confident in my abilities, but whether the guys could cope at such a height and on such a terrain - there were some doubts.

“Pillow” - it was not so much technically difficult as it was psychologically scary to go through. Anything could happen, and it was absolutely not our fault, but by chance. And I had to go through it four times - first for acclimatization, up and down. Then at the assault exit, again, up and down. Rocks, avalanches... it was scary to catch them on your own.

But in general, there was nothing supernatural on the route; everything was climbed without any problems. Railings were hung where one could fall.

Another stupid story happened to us: when we were returning from acclimatization to base camp, we left the drop at 5300, we didn’t want to drag heavy things down. And, my mistake, I didn’t mark its place on the GPS, I thought: “Well, we won’t lose it, we’ll come back in 4 days anyway, we’ll dig it up, everything is obvious here, the place is noticeable: here is the site, here is the bergschrund, how can you lose something here?” ?!” And after the snowfalls we returned - the site was covered in snow, there was a flat field all around, we dug for 2.5 hours, but found nothing. But I didn’t put a full stop, because... I buried the jacket in which the GPS was in that very dump, again, thinking about why it was needed, there is a well-paved trail here. The guys also had rugs there. In the end, I had to give the participants my mat, and I slept in a sleeping bag, laying ropes, clothes, and a backpack under me. By the way, the Sivera “Shishiga” sleeping bag really saved me, otherwise I would have frozen to death at 6,900! And so, I slept poorly, but I slept.

By the way, the equipment was never found. Some wondered what was happening - everything around was excavated! And those who were there not for the first time giggled knowingly.

- You had two overnight stays at 6,900, this is a very high altitude, did you have any thoughts of turning back?

This delay was due to the weather; we had to wait out the bad weather at this altitude. Why did this happen? When we went up, we communicated via satellite every day with the guys on the “mainland”, and received fairly optimistic forecasts. Each time the forecast said the following: today it’s snowing, but tomorrow – that’s it! - clear weather. And each time we woke up, made sure that it was snowing, the wind was blowing, and, if possible, we moved a little further forward and higher. But before the summit there was no such opportunity, and we just sat and waited in the tents for two days.

After some time, we were exhausted from the stress at altitude and were seriously thinking about turning around to descend. The snow fell all night, and at three o'clock in the morning the clouds suddenly cleared, the wind stopped, and the stars poured out. At half past five the sky cleared completely. Incredible! Where did all the bad weather go? I got out of the tent and saw that part of the cloudiness had dropped somewhere down to an altitude of 4,000 meters.

- Did you get altitude sickness? 6,900 m is a high altitude for an overnight stay...

I will say this: we were ready to spend the night at high altitude, the guys felt fine. Of course, to say that I felt excellent would be ridiculous, after all, it was 6,900. At this altitude there was everything - headaches, nausea, and restless sleep, but still - everyone was sleeping. I had an appetite - that's the most important thing. We ate all the food that we almost didn’t have at that time. In the end, there was only one Snickers left for two days, and water and tea. I really wanted to eat. What they found in their pockets and supplies, they ate. It was possible to bring the body to a working state. But these were only two nights at that altitude. The third would probably already be critical.

- How much equipment did you have by weight? Have porters helped you?

There were no porters, we carried everything ourselves. In total, we lifted about 18-20 kilograms per person, but the load was distributed in parts. Just during acclimatization trips, we lifted something and left it at the top. These are food, gas, burners, tents. Therefore, all this cargo was distributed over several days. I won’t say that it was easy, but the backpacks were not expeditionary weight, much lighter. This is a common practice in high altitude climbing.

Zhenya, I saw the photographs - there are stunning, alien views. How important is the beauty of the mountain for the success of the climb? Is it a stimulus to concentrate your strength?

Yes, of course, this is a huge incentive! Last year we went to Korzhenevskaya Peak and here’s the thing: the route is not visible. The full prospect of ascent is not visible. And the base camp is so close under the wall that you can’t even see the mountain, let alone the top. A wall and some snow fields are visible. That's all.

In this regard, there was complete oppression; for the first time I went to a mountain that I had not seen from the outside in all its glory. We went to the top, came back down - and again we don’t see it. The entire peak of E. Korzhenevskaya, the route we walked, was seen only this year, from the slopes of Communism. And they realized how beautiful she actually is!

As for the peak of Communism, in this respect it is aesthetic, beautiful. He is great and terribly beautiful! And when you walk, this feeling pushes you, helps you psychologically. Therefore, the beauty of the mountain is a factor, at least for me.

- Do you dream about the mountain afterwards? What do you remember most often?

After returning from the mountain, I experience severe reacclimatization, some kind of depression, and a reluctance to communicate with people. I don’t dream about the mountain at this time. Usually I dream about it when I have just left the route - for two or three days, since the brain has not yet realized that everything is over and we are already at the camp. And at home - only a month later, when you finally come to your senses after an expedition or ascent. But my layer of climbing events is quite dense, and I shared my impressions of the peak of Communism with friends, usually over a glass of tea, leafing through photographic material.

-What do you talk about most often?

Yes, about all sorts of ridiculous and funny moments, there were more than enough of them on this trip. Here, the same story with the abandonment that I told about.

Then, at the acclimatization exit, I somehow went out a little earlier, early in the morning, to help the guides hang the ropes, within sight of one of the high-altitude camps, at 5,300 m. While we were working on the fixed ropes with the guys, we heard the screams of my participants in the camp. It turned out that the people, already nervous because of the weather and fatigue, managed to quarrel without me over some little thing like not boiling water. And one participant shot at another with an already assembled tent. Missed. Naturally, the tent flew into the abyss, we never found it. In such a ridiculous way we lost our home on the climb. Moreover, the light Black Diamond Bibler, which we expected to take for assault, flew away. And I had to carry around six kilograms of crap, which was divided into backpacks.

Then - this year the Iranians made us happy. These are real suicides! There were many of them. A group of six Iranian men climbed in parallel with us. Also, at the same time, an Iranian girl climbed, accompanied by a personal guide. Last year, the girl already went to Korzhenevskaya Peak in our time frame. She then caused a lot of trouble for the guide who was taking her around. To be honest, they thought that she would never come to the mountains again and would end up with mountaineering. But she decided to come this year too. And there was also an Iranian grandfather who had a funny name - Abdi. We called him Avdey...

And it so happened that we went up for the assault in parallel with the Iranian guys and these two strange comrades - the girl and Avdey. Iranian guys courageously helped to work on the route and trampled deep snow.

Here you go. The grandfather and the girl walked individually, but in parallel with us. When we reached “Brudy”, at 6,300, the guide who accompanied the girl strongly recommended that the client go back down, it was clear that she was not ready - she would break down somewhere, then cry, then yell... In short, we strongly recommended to the whole team she had to go downstairs, even the head of the camp radioed in. But the girl openly didn’t care about anyone and refused to come down! I quarreled with my guide, broke my contract with him, and stayed at the top! After living for some time, she realized that there was no chance for her, she couldn’t go higher, and she was scared to go down alone, technically she was not at all ready. And then she feigned snow blindness, well, that is. She just said she didn't see anything. And these big Iranian guys brought her down. At Base Camp, the doctor examined her, came up to us, and quietly said that her indicators were normal, she was just pretending. We seemed to begin to be indignant: “How can this be, doctor? It was necessary to tell the Iranians about this!” To which he replied: “No need. Otherwise, an incredible scandal will break out and, to put it mildly, it will ruin her reputation.” In general, everything remains between us.

And grandfather Avdey at the top gave it a blast - he flew 100 meters, rolling down a hard, steep slope. He had food and gas for two days; in the upper camps he walked and scrounged around the tents. People shared with him, tried to kick him down, but nothing worked, he didn’t go down! So he staggered at the height, he no longer had any strength left. The climax of the story with my grandfather was an incident with two Britons. Two young guys spent the night at 6,900, planning to go out in the morning to storm the summit. And in the evening information from these guys comes to Base Camp. They contacted the office in Dushanbe via satellite, and from there they called the camp and said the following: after having dinner in the upper camp, the British went to bed early, wrapped in sleeping bags. Their tent is small, designed for two people. And then at night, the Iranian grandfather Avdey collapses, staggering, half-fainting, without food, without gas. The guys are, of course, in shock. But where to put it? I had to feed them and put them to sleep in my tent. Moreover, he got up in the morning and declared that he would go with them to storm the peak. At this point the British already realized that things were bad, hit him in the head with a stick several times and ran away from him upstairs, because the grandfather was clearly inadequate. Again, he categorically refused to go down.

Mera Peak is one of the highest trekking peaks in the Himalayas. A very impressive route that passes through the Makalu-Burun National Park has several advantages:

• quite wild and little-travelled compared to the same Island Peak, which is located on the trek to Everest Base Camp, and feels like there are tens or even hundreds of times fewer people;
• Technically easy climb. If there are railings, it will be a very small and not steep section, and most likely even that will not happen. The climb is somewhat similar to Elbrus, only with more height;
• This climb offers some of the best views of the Himalayas, with five Himalayan 8,000-meter peaks visible - Everest, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu.

Why you should come with us:

• Our climbing program is designed so that you get optimal acclimatization;
• I definitely take a few additional local high altitude Sherpas with 8000+ climbing experience on the climb. So that you get one guide for 3-4 people. This makes it possible to break into several subgroups when climbing, according to pace, because as practice shows, people who walk slowly can reach the top at their own pace if they do not need to chase faster participants. And on the other hand, the fast ones are also not slowed down by the others. Plus - if someone cannot continue climbing, there is a gap for maneuver and one of the guides can go down with him without disturbing the plans of the rest of the group;
• Due to the fact that I have been working a lot in Nepal for a long time (this is my main direction), I have already established good connections with local reliable companies, guides, and porters. You can rely on them 100%. Even possible emergency situations or organizational issues that may arise are resolved as quickly and efficiently as possible. For example, canceling flights to/from Lukla, booking rooms in lodges, etc. And it is possible to set the price a little lower with absolutely the same service, and often even better.
• Nice hotel in Kathmandu. 3*, but honest). It seems like a small thing, but after climbing it’s so nice to feel comfort...

Himalayas (Nepal), 18 days, $1500, for those who have already traveled with us, a $100 discount (with flight Kathmandu - Lukla - Kathmandu, all permits and permits)

Upcoming dates: October 22 - November 8, 2019. Or dates convenient for you>>>

Tour 22.10 - 08.11.2019 - The group has been recruited, there are no places.

Tour 20.03 – 06.04.2020 – The group is full, there are no places. Individual tour.

Climbing program to Mera Peak

Day 1. Meeting in Kathmandu. We will meet you at the airport, arrival in the tourist area of ​​Thamel and check-in at the hotel. Then you can devote time to getting to know the city, perhaps purchasing some additional equipment if necessary. In the evening, group dinner at the restaurant.

Day 2. Flight to Lukla and trek to Chucheng (3200 m)

Early rise and flight to the small town of Lukla, where one of the most famous airports in the world is located. Tenzing-Hillary. The runway is limited on one side by a sharp cliff, and on the other by a stone wall and has a duration of only 527 m. The flight will take 30-40 minutes. A small lifehack - when flying to Lukla it is better to take seats on the left side - from there you will have a beautiful view of the Himalayas.

Flight to Lukla - view from the airplane window

Lukla Airport - runway

After winter in Lukla, we have breakfast, the porters unpack things to carry, repack and move to Chucheng - there is only 1 lodge in which we will spend the night. The transition will take about 3 hours. Enough for the first day. The conditions in the lodge are, frankly, bad - but there is no alternative (. Plus there are few places - so it is theoretically possible here that you will have to spend the night in a common room. In other overnight places along the route there are no such problems.

Night view from Chucheng. The lights below are Lukla

Day 3. Acclimatization trip to an altitude of 4000 m.

Today we will devote to acclimatization. Since there is nowhere to walk in the area, we will go up the trail to the Zatwra La pass to an altitude of 4000-4100 m. There are tea houses where you can have a snack and drink a cup of hot tea.

Day 4. Zatvra La pass (4610 m), Tali Kharka (4300 m)

Today is a difficult steep climb to the pass Zatwra La 4610 m and then descent to Tali Kharka at 4300 m. The pass itself is quite “treacherous”, it just seems that you have reached the highest point, but no... there is still a slight rise around the bend). But the views from it will brighten up any trials. Transition 6-8 hours.

Day 5. Trekking to Kota (3600 m)

The trail leads among the huge trees of the ancient Himalayan forest, gradually dropping in height. By the end of the day we will descend to the large village of Kote, where the gateway to the Makalu-Barun National Park is located, there is Wi-Fi and a hot shower! Transition 4-6 hours.

Day 6. Trekking to Tagnak (4350 m)

The trail runs along the Hinku Drangka River, gradually gaining altitude. Almost the entire way we will be accompanied by a view of the Kyashar peak (6769 m), at the foot of which the village of Tagnak lies in the valley. After lunch we will take an acclimatization walk to Lake Sabai Tso 4450 m. The trek will take 4-5 hours.

Day 7. Acclimatization in Tagnak

Acclimatization trip to the observation deck at an altitude of about 5000 m. This is the case when you don’t want to let go of the camera:

Day 8. Trekking to Kara (4950 m)

Easy trek to Kara (3-4 hours). There are about a dozen loggias with wi-fi and showers. After lunch, we’ll start adjusting the equipment and rent the missing equipment. We will spend two nights in the square so that the body has time to acclimatize to the altitude.

Ascent to Kara:

Day 9 Acclimatization, climb to 5250-5300 m

In order for our body to better get used to the altitude, in the first half of the day we will rise 400-500 meters up and spend some time there. This walk requires a lot of effort, but it is necessary for a successful climb. After lunch, if necessary, we will conduct training sessions.

Day 9. Trek to the Mera Peak assault camp (5780 m)

A difficult but incredibly beautiful transition to the assault camp. Overnight in tents and early bedtime. Tomorrow night we will begin our climbing to the top of Mera Peak. Transition 5-6 hours.

Beginning of the ascent to the glacier

Three eight-thousanders:

the closest and largest on the right is Makalu 8485 m, on the left is Lhotse 8516 m and to the right of Lhotse the peak of Everest 8848 m is barely visible. Everest can be seen much better from the very summit.

Porters constantly run between Kara and the assault camp, carrying food, fuel and equipment:

The Mera Peak base camp itself is located on a glacier next to an icefall on one side and a view of Makalu on the other:

Day 11. Climbing Mera Peak (6461 m), descent to Kara

The assault began at 2 am. It takes 6-7 hours to walk to the top. It will be very difficult physically, we walk slowly step by step, stopping to breathe. Dawn at an altitude above 6000 m will be a magnificent reward for the difficulties that we overcome.

On the top:

Mera Peak is located at some distance from other high mountains, which offers an excellent 360-degree panorama. From one point we will see five eight-thousanders at once: Everest, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu - where else is this possible?

After the ascent, we descend to the assault camp, have lunch, drink tea, rest for an hour and continue our descent to Kara 4950 m.

Day 12. Reserve day in case of bad weather

Day 13. Trek to Kota (3,600 m)

We return to Kote with a sense of accomplishment. After everything that happened to us before, the road will fly by unnoticed) . Transit duration 5-6 hours

From Kare you can fly by helicopter to Lukla. Purely at will. The helicopter costs $1200-1500 and can accommodate 3-4 people. If desired, this issue can be resolved locally in Kara.

Day 14. Trek to Tali Kharka (4,300 m)

And you will have to rise again. During the time we walked to the top, the Zatvra La pass did not go away))). And we need to cross it again. Today we will reach Tali Kharka 4300 m.

Day 15. Zatvra La Pass - descent to Lukla

Descent to Lukla, in the evening farewell dinner with our Nepalese team.

Day 16. Flight to Kathmandu.

Flight to Kathmandu, rest.

Day 17. Rest day in Kathmandu, excursions. Also serves as a backup in case of non-flight from Lukla

Day 18. Flight home.

The cost of participation in the ascent to Mera Peak 6476 m.

*The hike will take place with any number of participants. Even if only one person signs up for the group, I will conduct this tour especially for you. I take on all the risks associated with not recruiting a group, but, as practice shows, there is always a sufficient number of participants, and often we have to refuse due to the large number of applicants.

The tour price includes:

• Russian guide
• hotel accommodation in Kathmandu *** (3 nights, double rooms with breakfast)
• accommodation on the track in loggias
• accommodation in tents in the assault camp with meals;
• flight Kathmandu - Lukla - Kathmandu
• all transfers and travel according to the program
• all permissions necessary to complete the trek
• permit for climbing Mera Peak
• garbage fee for climbing Mera Peak
• satellite phone for the group in case of emergency communication
• additional local high-altitude guides with 8000+ experience for the ascent period itself (1 guide for 3-4 people)
• public equipment (tents, gas burner, pots, rope)
• group first aid kit

The tour price does not include:

• flight to Kathmandu, $500 - $800;
• sightseeing in Kathmandu (about $40 with taxi fare);
• Tips for Nepalese, porters, final dinner with Nepalese after the trek - $20-25 if you didn’t take porter and $35-40 if you took porter. This is not necessary, but Nepalese people will be very happy about your gratitude.
• summit bonus to local sherpa upon successful ascent ($70 - $100)
• personal climbing equipment (boots and gaiters for them, crampons, ice ax, jumar, helmet, safety system, 4 carabiners, self-belay - 2 mustaches, descender). All equipment can be taken in Nepal - the price is about $100.
• expenses associated with excess baggage on a flight to/from Lukla (10kg +5kg hand luggage allowed)
• costs associated with canceled flights to/from Lukla