Independent travel in China. Independent travel to China. Travel from Xi'an to Chengdu

Since there is a crisis outside and everyone is groaning from the collapse of the ruble, it’s time to tell how you can go to China cheaply, so it simply doesn’t get cheaper. Foreign youth have been practicing this style of travel for a couple of decades, at least they even came up with a special word - backpacker i.e. "backpack".

Ykitai.com

More precisely, it is always cheaper, the minimum cost of a trip can be 0 (zero in words) USD, when you sign up with the locals, ask them for food and hitchhike. I don’t like this method, so I won’t describe it here, there are already enough resources.
Is it possible to travel to China for very little money? Maybe! Will this be interesting? Mmmm... From the point of view of gaining experience - of course, look at people and get to know each other, as much as possible in China. Will it be comfortable? It is unlikely. (c) Comrade Sukhov.
Let's look at each component of the trip:

A journey of a thousand miles begins with the first mile!

Ykitai.com
Text: Comrade Shapiro
Header photo: Vladimir Popov
Original article

1) Naturally, you have to bargain on your fingers in markets and with taxi drivers. The main thing to know is that the Chinese show numbers differently than Europeans - they show numbers from 1 to 9 on the fingers of one hand, not two.

2) At bus and railway stations, often no one speaks English. It is better to write in advance on a piece of paper the name of the final destination and the desired time period of departure; this is done with the help of an online translator or dictionary. Just stand in line at the cashier and hand over a piece of paper. The exact time and price will be shown to you on the computer screen or written on a piece of paper. Of course, they will be on the ticket - everything is in Chinese:
In this case, March 7, 14 at 15-40, seat 3, bus number K0935, price 17 yuan, goes to Mengla city

The most important words:
Today – 今天
Tomorrow – 明天
day – 天 (order execution time is 1 day) or 日 (day of the month)
month – 月
year – 年
morning – 上午
noon – 中午
evening – 黄昏
and cities: Guazhou (广州), Shenzhen (深圳), Hong Kong (香港), Guilin (桂林), Kunming (昆明), Beijing (北京), Shanghai (上海)

3) In China there is censorship on the Internet, to the point that messages on social networks are manually moderated!
Facebook and You tube are prohibited and inaccessible, RenRen is used instead of the first, Youku is used instead of the second. For instant messages they use the network and WeChat. Google may be available, but Baidu is much more popular. VKontakte works without problems.

4) Almost all public toilets will not have a traditional toilet. Instead, there will be a floor-standing toilet, familiar to many from our school toilets. You should also carry toilet paper with you. But tourist toilets have a star rating, like hotels.

By the way, you should also carry a supply of napkins with you. Cafes and restaurants do not have them or sell them for a fee.

5) 4 - purely unlucky, it comes to the point that sometimes houses do not have a 4th floor.
8 is a lucky number. Phone numbers of large companies often end in eight.
The main Chinese color is red.

6) Chinese is the name of a large group of languages, often mutually incomprehensible. Each city may have its own dialect. The government is trying to lead a campaign to popularize a common language - Putonghua or Mandarin. In Hong Kong, Macau, Canton (Guangzhou) and overseas diasporas, the vast majority of the population speaks Cantonese. One good thing is that all dialects use the same hieroglyphs, which, by the way, are partially used in the Japanese language. So the spelling of words is the same. If true, there are difficulties with having two writing systems: traditional Chinese characters and simplified Chinese characters. If you do not plan to read ancient texts, the latter will be enough for everyday needs.

This all works until you get into areas with Tibetan, Mongolian, Thai-Lao, Burmese or Arabic languages. On top of that, in some villages many people cannot read.

7) The most useful phone application is Waygo, which can translate texts on the fly, without the Internet, using a camera.

Google maps help you not to get lost, and the navigation mode can give you the best route for ground transport and tell you which bus to go where, although you need to have the Internet.

A SIM card can be purchased using your passport. Mobile Internet is very expensive: 300 MB for 96 yuan per month.

Hotels can be booked on Booking, but local players give better prices, it’s worth comparing on RoomGuru

8) A couple of years ago, there were a lot of counterfeit 100 yuan bills circulating in southern China. Until now, such banknotes are carefully checked in any store. Fraudsters may try to replace your real bill and return you a counterfeit one; they say the best defense against this is to wrinkle the corner or fold it so that the crooks do not have the opportunity to repeat the same thing with a fake quickly.

For the same reason, when paying in a taxi, transport cards are handed over in a case - there is no possibility of quickly replacing them with another card with a zero balance.

9) Speaking of transport. Entry to buses is through the front door. Payment at the entrance either by transport card or in cash without depositing in a special box. The fare can be fixed or stepped. For example 1 or 2 yuan in Kunming depending on the type of bus. The exact cost can be seen on the money box, although in Chinese: 一元 (one yuan) or 二元 (two yuan). Whereas in Hong Kong, you need to check the fare from stop to stop in advance at the stop, or if you use a transport card, do not forget to lean it again at the exit, otherwise the maximum fare will be debited.

Transport cards can also often be used to pay in stores and to enter museums and parks (for example, 7-11 and McDonald's in Hong Kong)

10) Washing things in hotels is very expensive. Street laundries are not easy to find, but dry cleaners can sometimes be found. For urgent orders there is usually a double surcharge. You can also stay in an apartment - there is almost always a washing machine there, and you can buy powder at the nearest store.

We encourage experienced sinologists to add to the story in the comments. Indicate your experience of traveling or living in the country.

If you decide to explore the culture of Asia and spend your vacation in China, then the surest way to do it on a budget is to go on your own, without the help of tour operators. We have compiled an interesting route for 9 days, which will allow you to see all the most interesting things.

A nice bonus only for our readers - a discount coupon when paying for tours on the website until August 31:

  • AF500guruturizma - promotional code for 500 rubles for tours from 40,000 rubles
  • AFTA2000Guru - promotional code for 2,000 rubles. for tours to Thailand from 100,000 rubles.

And you will find many more profitable offers from all tour operators on the website. Compare, choose and book tours at the best prices!

From Russia the cheapest way is to fly to Beijing, and then to Xi'an.

As a rule, the first and second terminals are used for domestic flights, but departures can also be from the third. It is better to purchase air tickets in advance. Flights are operated by Air China. If you are not a big fan of flying, you can get from Beijing to Xi'an by train. Tickets can be purchased at chinatraintickets.net.

You shouldn’t waste time trying to buy tickets at the station, as you’ll have to wait in line in the evening. You can use the services of a travel agency, whose offices are not difficult to find. They may sell you tickets at a small markup, but this way you can save quite a lot of time. The cheapest way to get from Beijing to Xi'an is by bus, which departs from Liuliqiao Bus Station.

So, for example, a double room in the Suba Hotel Xi'an Dongmen 2* per night costs 428 rubles, a room in the Xi'an Forest City Hotel 4* 1309 rubles per night, a room in the Golden Flower Hotel Xi'an by Shangri- La 5* for 2783 rubles. In general, the choice is huge, and the prices are quite affordable.

The first day. On your own in Xi'an

Xi'an is an amazing city that has more than 3,000 years of history. It is rightfully considered one of the oldest cities in China. This is where the Great Silk Road began. You will spend two days here. We begin our tour of the city with the most famous sights.

We catch a taxi and go to the Big Goose Pagoda, which is located in the Qien Temple. Here you will see beautiful gardens and unique architectural buildings. Many of which have been restored after repeated destruction. The Pagoda itself, 64 meters high, has 7 tiers. From the top you have an excellent panoramic view of the entire city, where many other unique attractions are concentrated. An observant tourist will notice that the Pagoda is at an angle that increases over time. This is how the pagoda received the unspoken name “Chinese Leaning Tower of Pisa”.

Big Goose Pagoda is a great place for walking and contemplating beauty. Be sure to check out the Peony Pavilion. Near the Pagoda, the fountain show begins in the evening. A very beautiful sight. Not far from the fountain garden is the Narru New Year shopping center, where you can have a snack at the Hot Pot restaurant. In these restaurants, food is prepared right at your table, which has a heating element built into it.

After a short rest, we again use a taxi and go to the inspection of the Fortress City Wall, the main task of which was to protect the city. Here are the most famous and significant sights of Xi'an - the Drum and Bell Towers, the Muslim Quarter, and the Great Mosque.

We recommend starting your inspection from the southern gate. Here you can see the Drum Show, which takes place daily. After the show, you will be able to take pictures with its participants dressed in national costumes and even knock on these same drums. Tourists are treated with respect here.

The length of the wall is 12 km, so you can rent a bicycle on site. Paid entrance. In close proximity to the South Gate there are the Bell and Drum Towers. The Muslim Quarter is also close. The Silk Road directly influenced the fact that two religions are practiced here - Islam and Buddhism.

In the Muslim Quarter you will see the Grand Mosque, which is one of the four largest in China, and which was built in the 18th century. The Muslim Quarter is a fantastic place, colorful and a must-see.

The shopping streets in the quarter deserve special attention. Here you can buy souvenirs made of stone, wood, and silk.

Second day

To visit Xi'an and not see the eighth wonder of the world - the Terracotta Army - would be simply an unforgivable mistake. You can get there from Xi'an by one of the buses that depart from the railway station every five minutes. Look for the inscription on the bus “Terracotta army”. The journey will take no more than an hour. The bus will stop near the ticket office, which is where you need it. Local guides who speak reasonable English also offer their services here.

Before you get to the entrance, you will have to pass by souvenir shops, eateries and other places that will try their best to get you to spend money.

Now that the path has been completed for you, three pavilions will be open on the territory of the museum. To see the Terracotta Army, go to the first pavilion. The height of each warrior in the army reaches about 195 cm, and the weight of the sculpture is 135 kg. The faces of all the sculptures are directed to the east, towards the defeated states.

After visiting the eighth wonder of the world, go to the bus stop, get on the bus and after three stops ask the driver to stop in Lintong. The Huaqing hot springs will be interesting here. Don't forget to prepare a note with hieroglyphs for the driver or explain yourself in English. Just let us know that you need Hot springs. Why is this place a must visit? It is here that the garden and park assembly is located, which occupies an honorable place among the hundred best in China.

You will have to pay about 110 yuan to enter. This place is associated with a romantic but sad love story between the beautiful Yang Guifei and Emperor Xuanzong. It was for his beloved that the emperor built a beautiful park and baths.

Today, next to the Lotus Pond, you can see the Tree of Love, to which thousands of ribbons are tied. The hot springs are also operational, so you can wash your face with healing water. Now is the time to appreciate the place from the observation deck on Mount Lishan, which is located close to the park.

Now you can return to Xi'an with a sense of accomplishment to taste the famous local dumplings. We recommend checking out the restaurant, which is located between the Bell and Drum towers. You definitely won’t pass by this place, because at the entrance you can see a huge dumpling.

Don't stay up late, because tomorrow you will have a flight to Guilin.

The third day. On your own in Guilin

How to get there

In order not to worry about the transfer, contact the administrator of your hotel and order a taxi. The flight to Guilin takes 1 hour 50 minutes. What is remarkable about this place? Unique nature, unique landscapes, the Lijiang River, karst mountains. In addition, it was here that the third episode of Star Wars and the film The Painted Veil were filmed.

From Guilin Airport you can take an express bus to the city. If your hotel is further away than the final stop, then take a taxi after the bus.

Where to stay

Budget accommodation options include the following hotels:

  • Guilin Ling Hong Express Hotel (RUB 427 per night)
  • Guilin 68° Hotel North Train Station Branch (RUB 517 per night)
  • Guilin Muslim Hotel (RUB 662 per night)
  • Yu Long Hotel (RUB 669 per night)
  • Guilin Hetai Hotel (RUB 675 per night)

If price doesn’t really matter to you and you don’t want to skimp on comfort, then we recommend the following hotels:

  • Grand Bravo Hotel (RUB 4,045 per night)
  • Guilin Golden Oriole Hotel (RUB 4,052 per night)
  • Sheraton Guilin Hotel (RUB 4,390 per night)
  • Shangri-La Hotel, Guilin (RUB 4,587)
  • The White House Hotel Guilin (RUB 8,442)

Now that you have checked into your hotel and rested a little, we recommend visiting the iconic site of Guilin - Elephant Trunk Mountain (Xianbishan), which is located in the southern part of the city center. This place, whose height is 100 meters, received this name because the outline of the mountain resembles an elephant that seems to have lowered its trunk into the river. A very interesting place. This is where the Lee River joins the Peach Blossom River.

According to legend, in this place a herd of elephants descended from heaven to earth. The beautiful views and picturesque nature so impressed the elephants that they wanted to stay here, but this thereby angered the Jade Emperor, who ordered them to return immediately. The herd returned, but the emperor was missing one elephant.

Enraged, he took out his sword and stabbed the animal in the back. The elephant turned to stone. Today, tourists can visit this place by taking a ferry. The ferry departs from the terminal on the street. Nanhuanlu. At the top of the hill you can see a brick pagoda. Its shape resembles the hilt of that same sword.

Near the park you can see the Hezhong tourism travel agency. We recommend stopping by here to purchase a tour to the rice terraces. Of course, you can get to them on your own, but then you will have to make a transfer, and the journey itself takes more than three hours. In general, many tourists prefer an organized excursion. You will have to pay about 170-180 yuan. The bus will pick you up from your hotel and then take you back. Don't forget to leave the hotel's business card with the employee to avoid any misunderstandings, as English will not help you here.

Waterfall at the Lijiang Waterfall Hotel

Do not rush to leave the park, because an evening walk along the picturesque complex of ponds and unusual bridges will bring a lot of pleasure. Be sure to go to the hotel
Lijiang Waterfall Hotel, which is located in the center. In the evening, whole crowds of tourists and locals gather here to see how the wall turns into an amazing waterfall for ten minutes. Another moment and the waterfall again becomes the wall of a five-star hotel.

If you are planning to extend your stay here for a couple of days, then be sure to visit the Reed Flute Cave and the Seven Stars Park. In the cave you will be able to contemplate not only magnificent halls, the beauty of which is difficult to describe, but also one of the most beautiful underground lakes.

Fourth day

Today we go to Yangshuo to see with our own eyes all the beauty of the karst hills and take a walk along the Li River. To get to the city you can purchase a cruise for 420 yuan per person. You won’t find anything cheaper; there is only one company that organizes them. The journey will take four hours.

Independent tourists can get there by bus in an hour. We recommend not to waste your money and time and choose this option.

According to local residents, the area between Yangdi and another village of Xinping is the most picturesque and fascinating. If you look closely at the Chinese 20 yuan note, you will notice the Li River, karst hills and lush vegetation.

To get there, go to the bus station to buy tickets to Yangshuo. The fare is about 15 yuan. Having reached the city, you will need to change at the same bus station to a bus that will go to Xinping or Yangdi.

The bus that goes to Yangdi will take you to the pier, where you can rent a raft designed specifically for tourist trips. Such rafting will cost a tourist about 300 yuan.

Be careful, because for less money cunning guides reduce the walking time from an hour and a half to 30-40 minutes and drop you off far from the end point. So, if you fall for a scam, you will have to get to Xinping on your own and spend a lot of time and effort on this. In general, we recommend not saving too much on your trip and paying money for a full-fledged rafting trip. The price usually includes a transfer from Xinping Pier to the bus station.

The guide can also stop for lunch at one of the local cafes. No one promises that it will be presentable, but they will feed you tasty and inexpensive. In general, if you feel slightly or not very hungry, then agree.

A three-hour walk from Yangdi to Xinping will delight you with beautiful scenery and a unique atmosphere. To return to Yangshuo, take a regular bus, the fare is about 7 yuan.

Moon Hill

Before leaving for Guilin, do not deny yourself the pleasure of seeing the miracle of nature - Moon Hill, which has a unique shape. You can get to Moon Hill by bus, just 15 minutes and you’re there. A ticket to Moon Hill costs 15 yuan.

You will have to make the climb yourself, since there is no lift, but for the money, a stunning view awaits you at the very top of the hill. It's worth it! Also, prepare 5 yuan for the grandmothers, who will accompany you until you buy water or any other drink from them. Now go back to the train station and take the bus to Guilin.

Fifth day

We are going to the ethno-village of Huanglo to the long-haired Yao

We use this day to see the Longji rice terraces, especially since we thought of everything in advance and bought a tour from the Hezhong tourism agency. In the morning, a bus will pick you up and go to the Huanglo ethno-village, where representatives of the Yao people live.

In this village, girls never cut their hair, and yet their hair is really beautiful and thick. For residents, this is the key to long life and wealth. What is also surprising is that rich hair color can be found even among elderly representatives of Yao; gray hair is unheard of here. One can only envy this.

Representatives of the Guinness Book of Records recorded the maximum hair length of one lady living in Huanglo, which was 2.1 meters. In general, when travelers get to this village, they envy silently, and sometimes they don’t even restrain their emotions.

Previously, traditions were strictly observed here, so only the girl’s husband could see her loose hair. Today, this tradition is rarely remembered, so for a fee, village residents will not only let your hair down for you, but will also happily pose for the camera. It’s not for nothing that they say that money spoils people.

All the girls are talented needlewomen, so the souvenir business is developed. Here you can buy handmade items. Here, next to Juanluo, you can already see rice fields.

Trip to Ping An village (rice terraces)

The next village you will visit is called Ping An. If you go on your own, you will have to pay for entry. For organized tourists, admission is usually included in the price of the tour, so there is no need to pay anything additional. The distance from Guilin to the village is about 100 km. To get to the place, you will have to transfer to another bus, designed specifically for driving along mountain serpentine roads; a specially trained driver is included with the bus.

This concerns the program of the purchased tour. If you are persistent and decide to explore the area on your own, then you need a bus that goes to Heping. It’s easy to find one at the bus station. From Heping you can get to the village entrance by car. When you reach the entrance, you will have a difficult choice between two routes.

Packet-goers have only one option - to transfer to a bus that goes to the Ping An rice terraces. Local residents gave them the name Dragon Ridge. The land for rice fields began to be cultivated more than 800 years ago. At that time, the Yuan Dynasty ruled.

To say that it was a titanic work is to say nothing. It took centuries for the plan to be realized, and today a unique landscape opens up to travelers. There is even something unearthly about it. On the terraces you can find two viewing platforms - Nine Dragons and Five Tigers and the Landscape of the Seven Stars accompanying the Moon. You will have to get to the observation decks on your own, climbing the steps.

In addition to rice, tea is grown here, so do not deny yourself the pleasure of purchasing it at a local stall. Freshly picked tea leaves will be dried and packaged right in front of you. After exploring and purchasing souvenirs, you will be asked to board a bus and be taken back to the hotel in the evening.

Sixth day. On your own in Shanghai

How to get there

It's time to go to Shanghai. It is better to purchase tickets in advance. You can easily get there on board a Shanghai Airlines plane. There are several ways to get from Pudong Airport to the city center: taxi, bus, Maglev Train, which reaches speeds of up to 430 km/h. Maglev goes to LongYang Road Subway Station Line 2. Perhaps this is the best option. The fare is 50 yuan, but there is an opportunity to save.

Present your air tickets when purchasing and you will receive a 20% discount. You will be there in 7 minutes. Once you arrive at the final stop, you will need to change to the metro or take a taxi to get to the center itself. If you choose the metro, after 5 meters you will see metro line 2. The trip will take about 10 minutes. If you prefer a taxi, then ask the driver to turn on the meter, it will be much cheaper. If the meter refuses to turn on, the fixed amount should not exceed 80 yuan.

Where to stay

  • Baolong Homelike Hotel (Zhongshan Branch) 2* from 1039 RUR. per night
  • Shanghai Amersino Hotel 3* from RUB 1,240 per night
  • Jitai Hotel (Shanghai Train Station South Square) 3* from 1353 rub. per night
  • FX Shanghai Liuying 4* from 2006 rub. per night
  • Golden River-view Hotel Shanghai from RUB 2,884. per night
  • Grand Mercure Shanghai Central (Formerly.Grand Mercure Shanghai Zhongya)5* from 4500 rub. per night
  • JI Hotel Shanghai Railway Station West Tianmu Road 4* from 7153 rub. per night

These hotels are located very well. Nearby there is the Shanghai Railway Station metro stop and the central railway station.

After checking into the hotel and some rest, we recommend heading to the Old Town. To get to the place, use the metro. You need purple line 10, Yuyuan Garden. In the Old City, we recommend visiting the Garden of Joy (Yuyuan Garden). The entrance ticket costs from 30 to 40 yuan, depending on the time of year.

This garden, located in the old part of Shanghai, was founded more than 400 years ago by the Pan Yundan family, or rather by a son who wanted his parents to spend their days in complete peace and happiness. The rich have their own quirks, but the idea was a success, although it took more than 20 years and all the savings. Later, the guild of Shanghai merchants would buy this garden. Today this park is one of the main attractions of Shanghai and causes indescribable delight among visitors.

In the park you can leisurely enjoy the pond with blooming lotuses, gazebos, terraces and, of course, the picturesque “Bridge of Nine Turns”. According to legend, by walking across it, you can cleanse yourself of evil spirits, whose entry to the bridge is prohibited. The Usintin Tea House is located right on the bridge. We also recommend visiting the Temple of the City Gods.

Spend today in this park and leisurely enjoy its charm, beauty and splendor. Near the park you will find many cafes and souvenir shops.

The Bund embankment and the Pearl of the East TV tower

If time permits and you have the desire, you can get to The Bund embankment and the Oriental Pearl TV tower. On the waterfront you can take stunning photos of the city's skyscrapers. It is located near metro line 10, East Nanjing Rd station. From the metro, move towards the river. Huangpu.

The Oriental Pearl Tower is located one subway stop from the embankment, near Lujiazui Station Line 2. You can also visit the famous aquarium here. On the way back, we recommend stopping by the railway station at the pre-sale ticket hall, especially since the hotel is located in close proximity.

You can buy tickets to Suzhou here tomorrow. Take the G train, it will get you there in just 25 minutes and the ticket costs about 40 yuan. There are cheaper options, but the journey will take longer than an hour. Keep in mind that you will need to present your passport at the ticket office, as tickets are issued in personal names.

Seventh day. To Suzhou on your own

Why is Suzhou a must-see? Yes, because here you can enjoy the splendor of the famous gardens, of which in the 16th and 17th centuries there were about 280. Today there are much fewer, about 69, but this is more than enough for one day. The city itself is more than 2.5 thousand years old, and its historical part is part of the World Heritage Sites. In general, there is a lot to see and be impressed by. Suzhou is also a silk center. Well, how can we resist here?

After arriving at the station in Suzhou, we transfer to bus No. 5, which departs from the station and goes to Panmen Gate (“Curled Dragon Gate”). Travel time is about 50 minutes, ticket price is 1 yuan. Panmen was once part of the wall. Today we can see the already restored landmark.

A huge amount of work was done and at least $2 million was spent. Thanks to these investments, the area was also beautified: trees and flowers were planted, the pond where carp live today was cleaned, and lighting fixtures were installed. While walking, you will easily find the Ruiguant Pagoda, which in ancient times housed a Buddhist stupa made of pearls.

Fisherman's Garden and Wangshiyuan

Wangshiyuan is one of the most popular gardens in Suzhou. Here architecture and nature, impeccability and grace come together. In the pavilions you can see the interiors of previous centuries, and in the center of the garden, visitors can admire the beauty of the picturesque pond, which is framed by beautiful plants and stones. In Wanshiyuan, you can also take beautiful photos in the bansai tree garden, on the arched bridge, which has the lyrical name “Leading to Serenity.” In summer you can visit the garden even at night, so don’t miss this opportunity.

The next must-see garden is Lion Grove, the distinctive feature of which is a pile of stones that have a certain appearance (taikhushi). Several decades are needed to “grow” such stones. To achieve a certain look, it was necessary to make holes in ordinary stones and place them in the lake. Over the years, these stones took on very unusual shapes. In general, there is something to see and be surprised by. The Lion Grove Garden is definitely a must see. Ticket price is 30 yuan.

Now is the time to go to the Garden of the Humble Official or Administrator, which covers an area of ​​5 hectares. Of course, a few hours are not enough to explore it; it’s better to set aside a whole day, but if you don’t have much time, then you can see quite a lot here during this time.

Construction of the garden was started more than 600 years ago by an official removed from government affairs for corruption. He worked on its creation for about 20 years, and today it has a unique design and unique beauty. If you visit the garden in summer, you will find the lotus festival, and in the spring the azalea festival. The entrance ticket costs 70 yuan.

If you’re not in a hurry to catch the train, you can walk to the train station and be sure to stop by the “85” confectionery to brighten up your day with delicious pastries and aromatic coffee.

Eighth day

Travel to Chinese Venice on your own - Zhouzhuang

Today we will go to explore the Chinese Venice - the city of Zhouzhuang, which has a history of almost a thousand years. You can get to it by bus from Suzhou, so first we’ll take the comfortable G train. There is a bus station not far from the railway station. The fare is 17 yuan. Travel time from Suzhou to Zhouzhuang is about an hour.

If the road is not tiring and you are full of energy, then you can walk from the final stop to the Old Town or take a taxi if you are not considering this option. You need to pay 100 yuan for access to the attraction. The old city, after the noisy and dynamic Shanghai, will surprise you with its regularity and silence, especially if your trip takes place on a weekday. Unlike Venice, the local canals are narrower, and the passing boats are steered by local women.

We recommend not to miss the opportunity to explore the city from the water. The cost of renting a local gondola is 100 yuan. That's how much a 25 minute walk costs. If you're lucky, they'll even let you steer and sing something folk and very sad, about love, probably. But for love, or rather for singing, you will have to pay extra. No romance.

After enjoying the walk, you can go explore the city and the life of the local residents. Be sure to check out the Key Bridge. If you are observant, you will understand that local residents receive their main income from private transportation along canals, the restaurant and souvenir business. The most interesting thing is that men here are engaged exclusively in intellectual work. Women get the hardest part – physical work. Maybe that's why they sing such sad songs?

If you want to eat, you will find many places, but whether you dare to try something is another question. Keep in mind that water for cooking is taken from the same canal where clothes are washed and other household chores are done. No, of course, the water is first boiled, and, as the locals say, after that it acquires a unique taste (who would doubt it), but the choice is always yours.

If you have already seen everything and don’t want to stay overnight to see the stunning sunset, we recommend that you hurry up, because the last bus to Suzhou leaves at 17.10, and to Shanghai 40 minutes earlier.

Ninth day. Self-guided walks in Shanghai

Today you can take a walk in the French Quarter. You can get there via Red Line 1, Shanxi Road. This place is very atypical for a metropolis; here you can stroll peacefully and feel its romantic atmosphere. If you have been to Europe, you will recognize its appearance - cozy cafes with the cutlery we are used to, and pastry shops, paving stone roads and nicely decorated balconies. Despite the name, not only the French lived in the quarter, but also Russian emigrants.

The remaining time can be spent exploring the sights that you have noted for yourself, but have not yet had time to see or go shopping. We recommend viewing and visiting the Shanghai Circus and Zoo, the Temple of the Jade Buddha, the Pushkin monument, and the Museum of the Chinese Communist Party.

If you are interested in items from fashionable global and local brands, we recommend Grand Mall. On 7 floors you are sure to find something for yourself and your loved ones. There is also a supermarket where you can buy delicious fruits and vegetables, and the choice is simply huge. Grand Mall is located near Lujiazui Subway Station.

Article text updated: 05/29/2018

In November 2011, together with my wife Ekaterina, we made our first full-fledged trip on our own, without travel agencies. We visited several popular places in China, spent one day in Hong Kong and then flew off to the Philippines for adventure. We really liked the country: kind, friendly people, a sense of security, cheap transport, food, hotels and excursions, a huge number of attractions. I knew I would return to China again. In March 2014, my dream came true: we flew to the Middle Kingdom for the second time. And today I begin a very long and detailed account of our journey as savages through China and Thailand.

General questions regarding preparing a trip to China

When I wrote a report on my first trip to China on my own, I did not dwell on general issues related to this country that may be of interest to travelers. Let's talk a little about the People's Republic of China. We all know that the Motherland of Mao Zedong is by far the most densely populated country - more than 1.3 billion people, i.e. every 5th inhabitant of the planet out of 10 is Chinese. We don’t think much about it, but an equally rapidly growing country in terms of demographics (and economy) is India with 1.22 billion hungry mouths. So, every 4 out of 10 people are from Southeast Asia. The territory of China is 6.5% of the earth's landmass. Only Russia and Canada have more land. Imagine how many tourist attractions this country can fit!

Most of the Celestial Empire has a temperate climate. In the South - tropics or subtropics. In the North there are continental climatic conditions. On average, the winter temperature in the northern provinces of the country is -7 °C (but also up to -20 °C) in the center - 5 °C, in the south from +5 °C to +15 °C. In summer - +20.22 °C, +25 °C in the North, Center and southern regions, respectively.

They say that you can fly to Hainan Island for vacation all year round, since the air there is always warmed up to +28 °C, and the water - up to +25.6 °C. We didn’t go to Hainan but we condemn it...;), After a close acquaintance with Chinese hotel service, I am sure that for the same money in Thailand or, for example, the Philippines, you will be able to relax more fun and pleasantly. After all, the Chinese neighbors, like us, have a socialist past with all that it implies.

Time difference with China

The Celestial Empire is a huge country located in 5 time zones. But the party said that it did not want to bother - everyone should live according to Beijing time, i.e. in summer it is ahead of Moscow +4 (the difference with Yekaterinburg is +2 hours), and in winter it is +5 hours to Moscow (+3 to the capital of the Middle Urals).

How to talk to Chinese

In general, the Chinese generally do not speak foreign languages. And they write in hieroglyphs. People often ask me: “How did you communicate in China? What to do if you need to ask for directions? How can you explain to a taxi driver where your hotel is?” In the first story about a trip to China as a savage, I described this moment in detail: pantomimes of a deaf-mute plus printouts with a dictionary and names of existing places in Chinese - up to Kyiv, i.e. They will take you to the most remote Chinese village. This year we were luckier: in Shanghai, in Zhangjiajie Nature Park (张家界), Fenghuang Ancient City (凤凰县) and Guilin (桂林) and even in Ma'an Village (马 安寨) hotel staff spoke passable English (at least one person in the hotel could speak).

How to change currency in China

Take some euros with you in cash (as a last resort). But there was no such need (to change the currency). We withdrew money from Visa and MasterCard debit cards at ATMs (where you can select English and sometimes Russian in the menu). The exchange rate was 6.3 rubles per yuan (including a bank commission of 150 rubles for each transaction). Before the trip, we bought 500 yuan from Sberbank (in Yekaterinburg - this is a branch on Tveritina Street, 34) so ​​that we would have money for a taxi from the airport in Shanghai to our New Asia Hotel. And in the morning they withdrew money from an ATM... The procedure for exchanging cash in Chinese banks, according to independent travelers, is long and tedious. On our first trip to China on our own, we exchanged dollars for yuan in hotels a couple of times. They officially issue a receipt, i.e. this is legal.

The purpose of this book is to answer two questions: “How to travel around China on your own without knowing Chinese?” and “Why is China interesting?” The author uses a non-linear way of presenting information, which is familiar to Internet users, allowing him to show China in all its diversity.

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The given introductory fragment of the book A traveler's guide to China (Dmitry Finozhenok, 2015) provided by our book partner - the company liters.

We're traveling around China

How to travel around China on your own

The idea of ​​traveling independently through a country whose language you don’t understand seems pure madness. But if a Chinese peasant from a remote village can easily cope with this, then should a resident of a big city give in? Moreover, China’s transport system is designed for huge passenger flows, and therefore is well thought out and surprisingly passenger-friendly.

According to the visa regime for Russian citizens, the territory of China is divided into two unequal parts: mainland China and special administrative regions (Hong Kong and Macau).

About Mainland China

Formally, this term is not entirely correct: two areas of Hong Kong (Kowloon and New Territories) are located on the mainland.

To visit mainland China, Russians require a visa (the most popular visas are tourist visas for 15 and 30 days), Hong Kong and Macau allow visa-free entry for periods of up to 14 and 30 days, respectively. Remember: when visiting the Special Administrative Region, you are leaving the area covered by your main Chinese visa. Therefore, if Hong Kong or Macau is a stopover point on your trip to China, then you will need a double-entry Chinese visa.

Major international airports in China (Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Chengdu, Chongqing, Dalian, Shenyang, Harbin, Guilin) ​​offer visa-free transit with the ability to enter the city for up to three days. It is important to remember that when applying for a transit visa, electronic tickets in Russian are not considered documents confirming departure.

A tourist visa to China is the only thing that cannot be done without the help of a travel agency. Even if you apply for a visa yourself, you will need an invitation from a Chinese travel agency or hotel. You can do everything else when preparing for the trip yourself.

Route selection

Despite the enormous leap that China has made over the past thirty years, only a small percentage of Chinese speak English and even fewer speak Russian. All a tourist can hope for is globalization. The more modern a Chinese city is, the more friendly it is to foreigners and the easier it is to live in it.

How to recognize a modern city

American sociologist Richard Florida, the author of the concept of the creative class, established a direct relationship between the level of tolerance and the innovative potential of a city. The modern city creates an environment open to change, which attracts not only creative people, but also bohemians, migrants, various subcultures and minorities. Therefore, the easiest way to find a modern city is to follow them. If you want to find bohemia, look at night satellite images (the brighter the city shines, the more intense the nightlife); if you want to find geeks, look for Comic-Con venues, etc.

The second limiting factor in choosing a route is climate. Most parts of China are quite hot in summer. Therefore, cities on the east coast are a smart choice, where the proximity of the sea mitigates the heat. It should be remembered that in the very south of China not only tropical downpours are possible, but occasionally typhoons are also possible.

You should also pay attention to the level of air pollution in the cities you plan to visit. Try not to stay long in places where the pollution index exceeds 100 points. Data on air pollution levels are updated daily and are available at http://aqicn.org.

The further you go south, the more diverse and vibrant nature becomes. Anyone who had to return home from the southern resorts remembers the depressing impression of a gray and lifeless city, compared to the south. Therefore, it is better to start your journey from the north of China and move south.

Between cities

In terms of size, China ranks third in the world, its area is only half the size of Russia. However, the country's transport system is built in such a way that almost every corner of the country is separated by a day's travel from the capital.

Cartographic illusion of grandeur

If you look at an ordinary political map of the world, it may seem that four or five Chinas fit on the territory of Russia. But this is just the result of distortions that are inevitable when transferring an image from the surface of a sphere to a plane. The closer to the pole the territory is located, the stronger this effect. For example, China is five times larger than Greenland, but on the map they appear almost identical.

There are two main types of transport: plane and train. The high population density in Southeast Asia allows many low-cost airlines to operate efficiently. Unfortunately, given my height of two meters, an airplane with front seats supporting my knees is not the most comfortable way to travel; I prefer trains, especially since the shelves in them are noticeably longer than Russian ones, and I only have to spend the night once.

CHR (China High-Speed ​​Railroad)

Thirty years ago, the main type of locomotive in China was the steam locomotive. The first high-speed train appeared in China in 2007. Today, the length of high-speed lines (200 km/h and above) is 16 thousand km, which is more than all other countries of the world combined. The next generation of high-speed trains, currently undergoing testing, already accelerates to 500 km/h. Trains have become serious competitors to airplanes and have practically replaced them on short routes (up to 500 km).

Most train numbers in China begin with a letter indicating the train category. There are six main types: C, D, G, K, T, Z. Category K is assigned to fast trains, there is a certain irony in the fact that it is currently one of the slowest trains in China (maximum speed - 120 km/h). Category T stands for express trains, these are the same express trains, but with fewer stops. Category D is intended for high-speed trains, their speed reaches 250 km/h. Categories G and C are assigned to bullet trains, whose maximum speed is 350 km/h. For safety reasons, trains of the last three categories operate only during daylight hours; at night, these tracks are used by category Z trains and luxury night express trains.

Beautiful is far away

If the bullet train ran along the Vladivostok-Moscow route, the travel time would be only 32 hours. Now Russian Railways requires more than six days for this.

Life on wheels

In high-speed trains (D, C, G), as a rule, there are only seats, in night trains of category Z - only compartments. And only fast trains and regular express trains have compartments, reserved seats, and seats.

Access mode

A train ticket is required to enter the platform and exit the station. Do not throw away your tickets until you have left the station building.

The numbering of seats on Chinese trains differs from Russian ones; the shelves on one side of the compartment have the same number. To distinguish them, the type of place is indicated: lower, middle and upper. The third, top bunk is only available in reserved seat carriages. It is located high enough to easily stretch your legs, but since the distance to the ceiling is not great, you literally have to crawl onto it. The lower the shelf is, the more expensive the ticket, so passengers on the lower shelves feel like wealthy people.


This is how the tickets indicate the lower, middle and upper seats, respectively.


When traveling on the train, you are issued a plastic card - a substitute for a ticket. It is your pass to the train if you want to go out for a walk at the stops. If you lose this piece of plastic, you will have to buy your ticket again. Half an hour before the passenger arrives at their destination, replacement cards are collected and tickets returned, so there is no fear of missing your station.

How to find your train

Chinese train stations are designed for huge passenger traffic, so they are easy to navigate. After passing the entrance control, find on the main board the number of the waiting room for your train (if the stations have several waiting rooms), in the waiting room - use the train number to find the exit to the platform. 20-30 minutes before boarding, the gates open and the stairs lead only to your platform. If you are not sure of your decision, just show your ticket to any station employee, he will definitely help.


Traveling on a Chinese train is quite pleasant. All long-distance trains are air-conditioned, soft traditional Chinese music creates a calm atmosphere, and large windows allow you to admire the scenery.

It is not necessary to take food with you on the train; carts with hot food regularly travel around the carriage. The food is aimed at the Chinese, but the lunch box contains five or six dishes, of which perhaps three or four will be tasty. You will have to prepare tea and coffee yourself; at the end of the carriage there is a tap with boiling water, and each compartment has a thermos.

Bed linen is not sold on trains; one set of linen is used throughout the entire train route. Therefore, never buy tickets with landing at intermediate stations. The towel is not included in the linen set.

The Chinese produce a lot of garbage, but they clean it up regularly. Every couple of hours the guide cleans up the place, including wet cleaning. If you do not want your suitcases to be walked over with a cloth, do not place them under the seat, use special luggage racks.

In China, you can buy train tickets no earlier than 20 days before the departure date, so when you go on a long trip around this country, you will most likely not have a full set of tickets on hand. How to solve this problem with the least amount of vacation time?

The most comfortable option is to order tickets in advance with delivery to the hotel. The advantages of this approach are obvious: all you have to do is pick up your tickets from the receptionist. The main disadvantage is that delivery only works in large cities. In addition, since you are ordering delivery of your ticket for a date and not a specific time, you will have to stay at a hotel for at least two nights. Of the several delivery ticket services I've used, http://www.chinatripadvisor.com left the best impression.

One country, one time

Since 1949, the entire territory of China (except for the autonomous regions of Xinjiang and Tibet) has had a single time, GMT +8. This greatly simplifies travel planning, but the further you go east, the more daylight hours shift. In summer in Shanghai, the sun sets at seven in the evening.

If your trip lies far from big cities or if you simply don’t want to waste a day in a certain city, you can pre-order the purchase of an electronic ticket, for example, through http://www.china-diy-travel.com. All you receive is your reservation number. After printing out the document sent to you, you go to the station and receive a regular ticket at a special ticket office. If you need help finding this ticket office, find any station employee and just show him your printout, he will tell you where to go - tested from my own experience.

End of introductory fragment.