Expectations and reality. Yasnaya Polyana and Kozlova Zaseka. Expectations and reality Yasnaya Polyana railway station

She was stopped due to a hacker attack

For a five-minute ride on the cable car along the Vorobyovy Gory - Luzhniki route, the MK correspondent had to stand in line for an hour and a half. It’s not surprising - the townspeople immediately rushed to master the new product, fortunately, travel on the cable car was made free until December 27. And everything would be fine, but not everyone is as lucky as MK. Shortly after our walk, the road, which began operating on Monday, November 26, was closed.

A long snake of a queue stretches along Kosygina Street. People who want to ride the newly opened cable car come here - the day before there was information that the lower station near the Luzhniki stadium is not working. On Wednesday, November 28, however, everything changed.

- Go for a ride? Go over there where the tail is. It's moving fast, you'll be there in ten minutes! — the police officer on duty answers cheerfully. And he adds, as a decisive argument: “They can fit eight people in a booth there, but do you know how many booths?”

- How many?

- Well... There are a lot of booths, a lot! — he ends the discussion and throws a strange remark into space: “The main thing is that the landing at Luzhniki doesn’t go wrong.”

Well, let's time it.

True, it very soon becomes clear that the ten minutes indicated by the fellow policeman is either a skillful deception, or his very strange perception of time. For at least the first 20 minutes the line doesn't seem to be moving at all. Meanwhile it's cold. And it's windy. And you can’t go anywhere to warm up.

- Yes, we will stand for three hours. “I read it on the Internet yesterday,” the girl in the pink cap standing in front of me confidently tells her friend. Young, cheerful, as you can understand from the conversation - a student at Moscow State University. She's here every day! Will ride again, and more than once, when there is no queue. Why suffer?

- Girls, what else are they writing? Is it worth it? — I’m carefully trying to start a conversation. The answer is incredibly simple:

- The devil knows! The photos seem okay... Well, it’s free for now, you can take a ride.


Would all these people decide to stand in line if they had to pay the notorious 400 rubles at the entrance? The question is probably rhetorical. But it's free - it's worth it. They are standing with small children, and pensioners...

- Eh, I should have taken some cognac! - the elderly gentleman behind me voices what everyone seems to be thinking about.

Only one achievement of civilization is visible on Kosygina Street - the blue booths of dry closets. It seems that no one has counted them - unlike similar amenities near the Cathedral of Christ the Savior, which were placed along the line to the relics of St. Spyridon of Trimythous just recently, in September.

And in other respects, it must be said, the religious queue was much better organized. Why isn’t there, for example, a bus here where you can warm up? Thermoses with hot tea? Businessmen, after all, who would sell expensive coffee and tea - and they would definitely be bought. But no. We just stand there.

An hour has passed. My fingers were frozen. Legs too. My head hurts from the cold. And I’m not the only one—the enthusiasm of those standing next to me also seems to have noticeably subsided.

- Just like my Masha, she’s always whining too! — an elderly lady in trendy Marsala-colored boots begs her companion. - Well, why whine? Everyone is cold, everyone is frozen. But they still stand.

Good morals, no doubt about it. It probably would have been appropriate thirty years ago, in line for something vital. Or at least in line for impressions - in a city where you suddenly ended up for just a couple of days, and you don’t know whether you’ll get there again. But in line for a five-minute flight over the Moscow River?

People passing by keep asking: how much are you standing already? Forty minutes? Hour? One and a half?! Well, you have to!

And they look at us... well, not exactly like we’re crazy, but like we’re weird, that’s for sure. Here the law enforcement officers add fuel to the fire:

— Keep in mind that landing at Luzhniki is mandatory. If you want to go back up, you will need to stand in the same line there,” explains the policeman.

The line is laughing hysterically. Obviously, no one wants to ride back and forth - like the doctor from “The Incredible Adventures of Italians in Russia” - even for free.


Directly next to the station pavilion, everything is simple and clear: they launch 8 people at a time - that’s exactly how many can fit in one booth. At the entrance, you must attach a Muscovite social card or Troika card for reporting purposes. But it's really free.

We load into the cabins. The people are rejoicing, their mobile phones are at the ready. Just what to shoot? Probably in the summer, when there is lush greenery of the reserve below and blue skies all around, it will be beautiful. Now what? Except perhaps the round Luzhniki stadium against the backdrop of the greyish-brown Moscow November. And the river.

Total pleasure - for five minutes (however, they were honestly warned about this). However, the event took more than an hour and a half: we got in line at 11.50 and only left the station below at 13.30.

And at 15.00 the cable car broke down, which was promptly reported by the Muscovites remaining in the queue on social networks.

“Today at 14.00 computer servers of the Moscow cable car suffered an unauthorized cyber attack. The employees, having discovered this, suspended the road traffic, after which they promptly dropped off all passengers at their destination stations to ensure maximum safety for passengers. Unfortunately, we are forced to stop transporting passengers,” the media quotes the press service of the cable car. They promise to announce the future work schedule on the website.

“I’m waiting with great excitement for your letter, dear friend, and I’m going to pick it up at 5 o’clock in the evening at Kozlovka,” wrote S.A. Fat for my husband.

Kozlovka, or Kozlova Zaseka, is the closest to Yasnaya Polyana railroad station, and now the station-museum.
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Where did this name come from? Named after the governor Danila Kozlov, who with his garrison fought off enemy raids here.

Later, during the construction of the Moscow-Kursk railway, a railway station appeared on the site of the abatis. Both long-distance trains going south and suburban, “dacha” trains stopped here.

Repin, Shishkin, Strakhov, and other talented and famous guests of Yasnaya Polyana visited here. Few railway stations could boast so many famous people who visited it. Lev Nikolaevich Tolstoy and his son often came here. Here he made phone calls and received his mail. The Tolstoy family made all their trips through this small railway station.

From here they went to Moscow or to the south. It was from here that he set off in 1910 and fell ill on the road.
The writer died at the Astapovo station, and the funeral train delivered his body back to the Kozlova Zaseki station.
In 1928, on the centenary anniversary, the station was given the name “Yasnaya Polyana” in honor of the estate of the famous writer.
In 1974, Kozlova Zaseka was recognized as a cultural monument and included in a number of cultural objects subject to protection.
In 2001, on the initiative of the Minister of Railways, Kozlova Zaseka regained its historical name. In the same year, large-scale reconstruction and restoration of the building and surroundings of the station began. The exhibition opens Railway Leo Tolstoy”, which anyone can visit.

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Among the cultural institutions of Russia that store and exhibit valuable objects and documents for display, there is a small museum and station complex "Kozlova Zaseka". The address of the station is simple: the city of Tula, Lev Tolstoy Street. The closest stop on the way to the Yasnaya Polyana estate was opened in 1868. Its construction is connected with the construction of the Moscow-Kursk branch of the railway (currently the Tula branch of the Moscow railway). The station is classified as operating.

Proud cast iron

It so happened that the fate of the inconspicuous stop turned out to be closely connected with the name of the great Russian writer, author of the novels “War and Peace”, “Anna Karenina”, “Resurrection” and others, because he was born, lived and worked in Yasnaya Polyana. The achievement of civilization once made significant adjustments to the usual course of life of the family nest (remember, initially the estate belonged to the Kartsev family, then to the Volkonsky and Tolstoy family).

Lev Nikolaevich and his household often visited Kozlova Zaseka: they received mail there and used telephone services. In November 1910, the station, turning gray as if from grief, greeted the coffin with the body of its famous regular. The sad cargo arrived from Astapovo, where Tolstoy met his last hour.

There is information that when the writer first saw the “proud cast iron woman,” he experienced confusion. The slight fright from the sight of the puffing hulk of a steam locomotive quickly passed: the “mirror of the Russian revolution,” as we know, was also a reflection of everything progressive, including in the field of technology. The route Yasnaya Polyana - Kozlova Zaseka became familiar to him. The lover of wandering quite easily mastered railway transport and actively used it.

Where did the name come from

On his last trip to his daughter Tatyana in Kochety, 82-year-old Tolstoy also went by train. It was August. Outside the window, at first slowly, and then more and more quickly, familiar trees floated away with the first redheads in their lush foliage; others “ran” towards them: “Farewell, Kozlova Zaseka!” It is unlikely that Lev Nikolaevich thought that this was goodbye forever. During the excursion they also talk about his farewell “date” with the station.

Tourists ask guides: why is the ancient stop called this way and not another? The roots of the name go back to the fifteenth century. These places represented the outskirts of the Moscow principality, which needed to be protected from enemy raids. For this purpose, notches were created.

The construction of an important part of the defensive structures looked like this: large trees were felled, their branches were cut so that they looked like bristling stakes. The enemy could not immediately overcome such a barrier, which gave the defenders the opportunity to gather their strength. Kozlova, the local barrier was named after the governor Danila Kozlov. Apparently, he was a great brave man, since he was awarded the honor of the people.

Reconstruction outside the noisy crowd

From 1928 to 2001, the Kozlov Zaseka station was called Yasnaya Polyana, then its historical name was returned to it. Tolstoy and many of his fellow countrymen called the stop briefly and sincerely: Kozlovka. Today, as a rule, that noisy “abyss of people” that Lev Nikolaevich once wrote about is not observed either in the waiting room or on the platform.

Previously, only he and his huge family of thirteen children could book an entire carriage. One can imagine how the Tolstoys whiled away the time until the train arrived, sitting on wooden benches in the waiting room. The younger ones probably made the most of the small areas: they looked into all the corners, stood up on their tiptoes to look at the cashier in the window.

After the reconstruction in 2001, carried out on the initiative of the management of the Moscow Railway, the seats, as before, invite passengers to sit down for a minute or for several hours. Looking into the luminous, unusual cash register window is quite entertaining even for modern adults. As part of an educational voyage, it is interesting to visit the office of the station chief, Kozlov Zasek.

Old and new

On the executive's desk, covered with green cloth, there is an antique one. How many messages were written on it? A post office, a telephone booth - all this is like in Tolstoy's times: forget about your cell phone, go into a booth and call your family or friends. Many visitors admit that they really like the interactive journey into the past. Kozlova Zaseka is a museum that appeals to all ages.

At the beginning of the twentieth century, namely in 1902, the station complex was replenished luggage compartment, a wooden platform and an intermediate (island) platform were built. At the same time, a toilet, a cellar, and a railway house were built. All this is kept today in a neat, well-groomed condition, so that you are not ashamed to show it to your own people or bring foreign guests.

For reference: since 2001, Kozlova Zaseka has been a branch of Yasnaya Polyana (Shchekinsky district, Tula region).

During the reconstruction of the beginning of the third millennium, they took 1910 as a basis: they used the surviving information about appearance the building, its interior decoration, and the appearance of the surrounding area. Based on the fact that the station is operational, it was not possible to avoid modern “inclusions” (antennas, cables, etc.). But visitors are not distracted by trifles, focusing on the main thing.

Will the route be restored?

The station lived an active life for a long time: long-distance trains flew past, and in the summer numerous summer residents became active users of the railway. But times have changed. Those who visited Kozlovaya Zaseka in 2016 heard from tour guides that the Moscow - Yasnaya Polyana train was canceled, despite the fact that it was in demand by passengers. Museum workers hope that the route will be restored. After all, it leads to a wonderful historical corner.

Yes... Once upon a time many people came from Moscow to Yasnaya Polyana to see Leo Tolstoy famous people. For example, the artist Ilya Repin. He became friends with the novelist back in 1880, when he unexpectedly came to his studio. Since that time, the author of the paintings “Barge Haulers on the Volga”, “Ivan the Terrible and His Son Ivan” and others visited the great writer almost every year on his family estate and created a whole gallery of portraits of his friend.

The estate was also visited by Ivan Shishkin, no less revered by art connoisseurs, and other eminent guests. They all got off at Kozlova Zaseka station (Tula). The Tolstoy couple joyfully greeted them and escorted them to Yasnaya Polyana, which was only a few kilometers away. And this is only a small part of the historical information.

Small but interesting museum

Many visitors highly appreciate the merits of the museum-station complex and note the harmonious combination of history and modernity. At the same time, the museum itself is a small room with an interesting exhibition. The exhibition is called "Leo Tolstoy's Railway". What did the cast iron look like? How did travelers dress? What was hand luggage?

You can learn about all this and much more by arriving at the station with an inscription in Old Church Slavonic: “Kozlova Zaseka”. A desk at which you could scribble a couple of lines with a pen, antique ladies' and formal men's travel coats decorated with embroidery, gloves, a huge suitcase, a fascinating photo report - all this allows you to plunge into the atmosphere of bygone years.

There is such a service as a photo in ancient clothing. So, when leaving, people are happy to take away a piece of Kozlovka as a souvenir. You can pose next to the bust of L.N. Tolstoy, on the porch, near the flowerbed, on a bench with forged openwork legs - the choice is up to the tourists who were attracted to the seemingly simple stop of Kozlov Zasek. "How to get there?" - a relevant question these days. But more on that below.

Everything is like under Tolstoy

There is an opinion that preserving the past is unfashionable today. However, the majority of those who visited the museum express gratitude to all those who, in our difficult times, were able to harmoniously combine modernity and history. The Kozlova Zaseka station-museum is an example of a complex, every meter of which works for a good image.

Everything is thought out and weighed down to the smallest detail. Surely it would have been easier to build some kind of metal or plastic fencing on the platform. But under Tolstoy they were not there. That’s why there are squat fences, wooden, strong in appearance and in reality. It is possible that Lev Nikolaevich himself tied the horse to these.

The poster warning about the need for careful behavior while on the platform is also in retro style: the unlucky gentleman in the top hat is about to find himself in a dangerous situation. And what is the call: “Gentlemen, take care of life!” Many admit: they immediately want to become more disciplined and more attentive.

Summer is better than winter

Kozlova Zaseka is a point that is worth visiting for everyone who is tired of social parties and bustle. Newlyweds love to take pictures against the backdrop of the museum-station complex. Wedding photographers most often choose an old well, the station building itself, or a monument to the writer “for color.” In general, Kozlova Zaseka is famous and attractive (although this also happens: sometimes it’s dense, sometimes it’s empty).

Almost all guests willingly visit the souvenir shop, buffet, and stroll around the territory. It is more crowded here in summer. In winter, as some put it, “there is not enough beauty.” As for the time of flowering and fruiting, everyone agrees: the air is wonderful, it smells of fragrant apples, the smell of petunias is everywhere. City dwellers especially appreciate such luxury.

We're up to Kozlovka!

Electric trains to Kozlovaya Zaseka are a thing of the past. Remember how recently people traveled on the route Tula - Kozlova Zaseka by electric train increased comfort, pointless. It departed from Kurskaya station in Moscow, but was canceled, it is believed, due to insufficient passenger traffic.

Now experts advise using minibus No. 218, which departs from the Moscow railway station. Just don’t forget to warn the driver that you are going to Kozlovka, as drivers often turn around before reaching Zaseki, and you, having passed the destination, will end up at the final stop in the village of Skuratovo (Zapadny). From there it is a long walk to the station and you can confuse the stitches and paths. Have a good trip!