Two brave guys - Nepalese Tenzing Norgay and New Zealander Edmund Hillary - became the first people to successfully climb the highest point on Earth in 1953. It is part of the Himalayan mountains and is located in Tibet. Its correct Tibetan name is “Chomolungma” - meaning “divine mistress of the winds”. People felt respect and awe for the mountain giant long before the idea of conquering it appeared. Another name was fixed on Western maps - Everest - after the surname of the British colonel Sir George Everest (English George Everest, 1790-1866), the head of the geodetic service, who first measured the height of the mountain.
Climbing attempts
At an altitude of almost 9 km, environmental conditions are the most extreme on Earth:
- Thin, almost unbreathable air;
- Severe frost (up to – 60° C.);
- Hurricane wind (up to 50 m/s).
The ability to withstand such aggressive conditions, as well as reliable methods of climbing to heights, did not exist for a long time. The Tibetans saw Chomolungma as a symbol of divine power and inaccessibility and did not try to overcome the impossible. The first attempts to climb Everest began in the 1920s. by the British.
- In 1921, the expedition, having covered 640 km along the Tibetan plateau, reached the foot of the mountain. Weather conditions did not allow us to continue the ascent. The result of the expedition was a visual assessment of a potential ascent route.
- In 1922, the expedition members climbed to a height of 8230 m, not reaching the peak of 618 m.
- In 1924 - 8573 m, 274 m remained to the top.
In all three cases, participants covered distances on their own breath without the use of oxygen tanks.
- Attempts to conquer Everest were made in the 1930s, after which they were forgotten until the early 1950s. None of these expeditions were successful: no new records could be set. Some ended in death.
- In 1952, a Swiss expedition, which included Tenzing Norgay, passed the Khumbu Glacier and reached a new height of 8598 m. The group was forced to turn back due to running out of supplies. There were 250 m left to the top.
Inspired by the success of the Swiss, in 1953 the British, under the leadership of Colonel John Hunt, began to prepare for a new major ascent. Tenzig Norgay, as the most experienced climber from the local population, was included in this composition.
Norgay and Hillary had such different life paths that only Everest could bring them together.
Tenzing Norgay, a positive Nepalese who always smiles from all his surviving photographs, began as a humble porter accompanying those who wanted to get to Qomolungma. There were no special activities in the region, and this, although risky, brought some money. By 1953, he had spent more time on the mountain than anyone else. Norgay was sick with Chomolungma. “The reason is somewhere in the heart,” he said. “I had to go up... because the gravity of Everest was the greatest force on earth.”
Norgay has been trying to climb Chomolungma since he was 19 years old and has done it almost every year. During periods of absence of expeditions, he participated in the conquest of the Indian Nanda Devi (7816 m), the Pakistani Tirich Mir (7708 m) and Nanga Parbat (8125 m), the Nepalese Langtang mountain region (7246 m), and accompanied a research expedition to Tibet. Norgay was a famous summiteer, so it was not unusual that the British invited him to participate in the 1953 expedition, nor that he became one of the first two to reach the summit of Everest. At that time he was 39 years old.
The second hero, Edmund Hillary, received a higher education at the University of Auckland (New Zealand). Like his father, he was engaged in beekeeping. Out of boredom and the monotony of life, I fell in love with going to the mountains: the New Zealand Alps are not too high (3754 m), but quite high enough to make me fall ill with mountaineering. History is silent about where Hillary’s idea of conquering Chomolungma came from. Perhaps it was an accident. At the time of the ascent he was 33 years old.
The Rise of Norgay and Hillary
Several climbers took part in the expedition, but only four, divided into two pairs - Norgay and Hillary, Tom Bourdillon and Charles Evans - were selected by the leader to make the main ascent.
Climbing Everest in those days was not extreme entertainment, but a political task - about the same as flying into space or landing on the moon. In addition, both now and then, this event does not apply to cheap travel.
The expedition was paid for by the British: it was supposed to be completed by the coronation of Elizabeth II. It was a symbolic gift to the Queen and at the same time an assertion of the strength of Great Britain and leaving a mark on history. The ascent had to be successful, no matter what. The expedition was organized at the highest level for that time. Windproof and waterproof clothing and shoes for climbers, radio station, oxygen systems. The group was accompanied by a doctor, a camera operator and a journalist to cover the ascent.
In April 1953, after several months of planning and calculations, the group began to move. On their way up, they founded 9 temporary camps, some of which are still used by climbers to Qomolungma. The climbers walked along the Valley of Silence (Western Cwm), through Lkhozde and the South Col they reached a level of approximately 8000 m. The remaining 800-odd meters had to be overcome by one of the two teams.
The team of Bourdillon and Evans went first on May 26th. Before reaching the 91 m summit, they were forced to turn back: weather conditions worsened, and a malfunction was discovered in one of the oxygen devices.
Norgay and Hillary started on May 28, leaving behind a camp at an altitude of 8504 m. The night of May 29 was frosty and sleepless. The guys spent it in the 9th camp. The story goes that Hillary woke up at 4 a.m. to discover that his boots had become like stone from the cold. He warmed them up for 2 hours. At 6:30 they began the last stage of the ascent. By 9 o'clock the guys reached the South Peak, but here their path was blocked by a difficult section - a 12-meter-high rocky ledge. Hillary found a way to overcome it: he had to climb very slowly, it took an hour of extra time. Since then, this area has been called the Hillary Ledge.
At 11:30 am, Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary reached the summit of Everest, becoming the first people to do so. What can I say: their joy knew no bounds. Hillary photographed Norgay triumphantly holding an ice ax with the flags of Nepal, Great Britain, India and the Commonwealth of Nations flying. They say that Norgay did not know how to use a camera, which is why there are no photographs of Hillary from the top. They stayed at the top for 15 minutes, after which they began the long descent back, forever falling into history.
The fate of Norgay and Hillary after their ascent
The next day, all the newspapers wrote about the finally completed ascent of Everest. This was further proof of the power of a person who can accomplish seemingly impossible things. Edmund Hillary and the leader of the expedition were awarded knighthoods on behalf of the Queen of Great Britain. Tenzing Norgay was not a subject of the British crown, so he did not become a knight, but was awarded the Order of the British Empire.
Subsequently, Hillary continued his extreme travels. During the trans-Antarctic expedition, he visited the South Pole of the Earth. Then - on Mount Herschel in Antarctica. Sailed through wild Nepalese rivers on a motor boat.
He repeated the same thing on the Ganges - from the mouth to the source in the Himalayas. In 1985, together with astronaut Neil Armstrong (the first to set foot on the Moon as part of the Apollo 11 expedition), he flew on a twin-engine plane to the North Pole. Edmund Hillary became the first and only person to visit the three poles of the earth - the south, north and Everest, known as the symbolic third pole. He was bored, and he made life more varied as best he could. Despite the extreme conditions in which Hillary often lived, putting his life and health at risk, he lived to be 88 years old.
As different as the stories of the discoverers of Chomolungma were before the ascent, their paths remained so different after it. For Tenzing Norgay, the 1953 trip was the last extreme trip of his life. He became a famous person in India, served as director of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, and participated in political life. He lived to the age of 71, leaving behind six children, one of whom followed in his father’s footsteps and conquered Everest in 1996.
30 years ago, on May 4, 1982, the highest peak of the world, Everest (Qomolungma), was first conquered by Soviet climbers - Vladimir Balyberdin and Eduard Myslovsky.
A 13-year-old American teenager has conquered Everest. Jordan Romero summited Everest on May 22, 2010, in the company of his father and three guides.
Owned by Nepalese spiritual teacher Bhaktu Kumar Ray. He spent 32 hours on the highest peak in the world, 27 of them in meditation. Bhakta Kumar Rai used the oxygen cylinder for only 11 hours.
In 2001, the amazing feat of climbing Everest was accomplished by a blind American, Eric Weihenmayer. By that time, he had already conquered all the highest mountain peaks on all seven continents.
In 1992, Frenchman Pierre Tardevel skied down the slope of Everest. He drove down from the southern peak, located at an altitude of 8571 meters, and covered three kilometers in three hours.
In 1998, Frenchman Cyril Desremo made the first descent from the peak on a snowboard.
In 1988, Frenchman Jean-Marc Bovin made the first paragliding flight from the top of Everest.
In 1991, four English extreme sports enthusiasts flew over the top from Nepal to Tibet in two hot air balloons.
In 2001, a French couple, Bertrand and Claire Bernier, flew down from the summit in a tandem glider.
In May 2004, Italian Angelo D'Arrigo made a hang gliding flight over the top of Everest for the first time in the history of aeronautics.
On May 14, 2005, a helicopter landed on the summit of Mount Everest for the first time. The unique flight was performed by Didier Delsalle, Eurocopter test pilot, on a production Eurocopter Ecureuil/AStar AS350 B3 helicopter.
On October 4, 2008, the first ever parachute jump over Everest was made. The authors of the record were New Zealand representative Wendy Smith, Briton Holly Budge and Canadian with British citizenship Neil Jones. The extreme athletes flew for about a minute in free fall, jumping out of the plane over Everest at an altitude of about 9 thousand meters.
Faktrum wants to tell you a few stories about conquering Everest. We warn you: the text is not for the impressionable!
1. 40 people passing by and one Discovery TV crew
The general public first became aware of the “horrible” morals that reign on the approaches to Everest in May 2006, when the circumstances of the death of David Sharp, a British climber who attempted to conquer the peak alone, became known. He never made it to the top, dying from hypothermia and oxygen deprivation, but it is noteworthy that a total of 40 people passed by the slowly freezing math teacher, and no one helped him. Among those passing by was a film crew from the Discovery TV channel, whose journalists interviewed the dying Sharp, left him oxygen and moved on.
The general public was outraged by the “immoral” act of those who “passed by,” but the truth is that no one could help Sharpe at such a height, even with all the desire. It was simply not humanly possible.
2. "Green Shoes"
It is unknown when the concept of “green boots” came into use among Everest conquerors and became folklore. But it is known for certain that they belong to the Indian climber Tsewang Paljor, one of the victims of the “Bloody May” of 1996 - that month a total of 15 people died on Everest. This is the largest number of victims in one season in the entire history of conquering the highest peak on the planet. For years, Paljor's green boots have been a landmark for those climbing the mountain.
In May 1996, several commercial expeditions climbed Everest at once - two American, one Japanese, one Indian and one Taiwanese. They are still arguing about who is to blame for the fact that most of their participants never returned. Several films were made based on the events of that May, and the surviving participants wrote several books. Some blame the weather, some blame the guides who began descending before their clients, some blame other expeditions that did not help those in distress or even hindered them.
3. The Arsentievs
In May 1998, the couple Francis and Sergei Arsentiev attempted to conquer Everest without supplemental oxygen. The idea is daring, but quite realistic - without additional equipment (at least 10–12 kg), you can go up and down faster, but the risk of complete exhaustion from lack of oxygen is very high. If something goes wrong during the ascent or descent and climbers linger in the “death zone” longer than the physical capabilities of the body allow, inevitable death awaits them.
The couple spent five days in the base camp at an altitude of 8200 meters, twice their attempts to climb ended in failure, as time passed, so did their strength. Finally, on May 22, they went out for the third time and... conquered the summit.
However, during the descent, the couple lost sight of each other and Sergei was forced to descend alone. Frances lost too much strength and simply fell, unable to continue on her way. A few days later, an Uzbek group passed by the freezing Frances without helping her. But its participants told Sergei that they had seen his wife and he, taking oxygen cylinders, went in search... and died. His body was found much later.
The last people Frances saw and who, accordingly, saw her alive were British climbers Ian Woodall and Cathy O'Dowd, who spent several hours with the dying woman. According to them, she kept repeating “don’t leave me,” but the British could not help her and left, leaving her to die alone.
4. Perhaps the first true conquerors of Everest
It’s not for nothing that those who strive to conquer Everest say that it’s not enough to climb - until you descend, the peak cannot be considered conquered. If only because there will be no one to tell that you were really there. Such is the sad fate of climbers George Mallory and Andrew Irwin, who attempted to conquer Everest in 1924. Whether they reached the top or not is unknown.
In 1933, at an altitude of 8460 m, the hatchet of one of the climbers was found. In 1991, at an altitude of 8480 m, an oxygen cylinder manufactured in 1924 (and, accordingly, belonging to either Irwin or Mallory) was found. And finally, in 1999, Mallory’s body was found at an altitude of 8200 m. Neither a camera nor photographs of his wife were found with him. The latter fact makes researchers believe that either Mallory or both climbers still reached the summit, since Mallory, before going to Everest, told his daughter that he would definitely leave a photo of his wife at the top.
5. Everest does not forgive “not like everyone else”
Everest severely punishes those who try to act “not like everyone else.” It is not for nothing that most successful ascents are made either in May or in September-October - the rest of the year the weather on the mountain is not conducive to ascents and descents. It’s too cold (until May), weather conditions change too quickly, and the risk of avalanches is too high (in summer).
Bulgarian Hristo Prodanov decided to prove that climbing Everest in April is quite possible - to do something that no one has done before. He was a very experienced mountaineer who conquered many iconic peaks.
In April 1984, Christo attempted to climb Everest - alone and without oxygen. He successfully summited, becoming both the first Bulgarian to set foot on the planet's highest mountain and the first person to do so in April. However, on the way back he was caught in a fierce snowstorm and froze to death.
6. The creepiest corpse on Everest
Hannelore Schmatz became the first woman and first German citizen to die while approaching the summit of Everest. This happened in October 1979. However, she is famous not only for this reason and not because she died of exhaustion on the descent, having successfully conquered Everest, but because for a good 20 years her body frightened those who tried to conquer Everest. She, blackened in the cold, froze in a sitting position towards the climbers of Everest, with her eyes wide open and her hair flowing in the wind. They tried to lower her body from the top, but several expeditions failed, and the participants in one of them themselves died.
In the end, the mountain took pity and during one particularly strong storm at the beginning of the 2000s, Hannelore’s body was thrown into the abyss.
7. Keep anniversaries alive
Sherpa Lobsang Tshering, nephew of Tenzing Norgay, the first official conqueror of Everest, decided to make the climb in May 1993 in memory of what his uncle had done. Fortunately, the 40th anniversary of the conquest of the mountain was just approaching. However, Everest does not really like “celebrants of the day” - Schering successfully climbed the highest mountain on the planet, but died during the descent, when he already believed that he was safe.
8. You can climb Everest as much as you like, but one day it will take you away
Babu Chiri Sherpa is a legendary Sherpa guide who has climbed Everest ten times. The man who spent 21 hours on top of a mountain without oxygen, the man who reached the top in 16 hours and 56 minutes, which is still a record. The 11th expedition ended tragically for him. At an altitude of 6500 meters, “children’s” for this guide, he was photographing the mountains, accidentally miscalculated his movements, stumbled and fell into a crevice, in which he fell to his death.
9. He died, but someone survived
Brazilian Vitor Negrete died in May 2006 during the descent after conquering Everest. This was Negrete's second ascent, and this time he planned to become the first Brazilian to conquer the mountain without oxygen. While ascending, he made a cache in which he left food and oxygen, which he could use on the descent. However, on the way back, after a successfully completed mission, he discovered that his cache had been plundered and all his supplies had disappeared. Negrete did not have enough strength to reach the base camp and died very close to it. Who took the supplies and the life of the Brazilian remains unclear.
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Everest - the highest mountain in the world
Everest (or, as it is called in Nepal, Chomolungma) rises 8848.43 meters above sea level. Climbing Everest is a real dream for every climber, but, without a doubt, it is also a very dangerous adventure, since a huge number of people have died trying to conquer this peak. The highest point on our planet is known to every schoolchild today. But the history of the discovery of Everest and the fate of many brave people who tried to conquer it often remain a mystery to the general public.
Infographics
Shocking truth
Resembling a pyramid in shape, rising many kilometers above sea level due to the movement of lithospheric plates, Everest rises above Asia right on the border of China and Nepal. This peak is rightfully considered one of the most magnificently beautiful, but at the same time, tragic and dangerous places in the world. Its rocky silhouette invariably attracts numerous brave and courageous conquerors who try to reach the top at the cost of enormous effort, and sometimes even at the cost of their own lives. Unfortunately, many climbers remained forever among the snow and rocky gorges. More than 235 climbers and local residents died while trying to conquer the highest peak on the globe (although the exact number of deaths remains unknown today, because not all of them officially registered their ascent). The difficulty lies not only in the increased atmospheric pressure and rarefied air, which is impossible to breathe for a long time, but also in the danger of the route itself. However, despite all these difficulties, many people continue to risk their lives in order to spend a few minutes on top of the world. There is something about it that irresistibly attracts brave climbers...
How much does it cost to climb Everest?
This question is very popular today. Everyone knows that high-altitude expeditions require not only serious physical and tactical training of participants, but also considerable investments. The average price is about $30,000 if you go on your own or with your organized and independent group. Travel companies offer their own expeditions, and the price for their services is about $60,000. The price of a VIP expedition, which includes constant Internet access and telephone communication, is often higher than $90,000. Overall, it all depends on the guide and the quantity and quality of services included in the package. However, when choosing an instructor and a company, it is important to consider not only the price and image of the company. It is always best to study this issue yourself and very carefully. In particular, it would be a good idea to pay attention to whether the package includes the cost of the flight and the services of Sherpas. The thing is that sometimes you have to pay for the participation of local "helpers" on the spot when you are already at base camp, so to avoid unexpected surprises, it is always better to research the details in advance.
Why so expensive?
The Nepalese government imposes a mandatory fee on all foreigners who want to climb Everest. Depending on the size of the group and time period, the fee can range from $11,000 to $25,000.
Many readers will probably be indignant: “Where do these prices come from??!” But, on the other hand, judge for yourself: even with such collections, there are tens of tons of garbage on the slopes; more than 200 people died while climbing Everest... Imagine what would have happened if this fee had not been charged - the number of climbers, of course, would have increased sharply, and the peak would have begun to look like something terrible.
Another important point is the correct selection of the necessary equipment, which also costs a lot of money. Costs for guides, instructors and Sherpas often depend on the size of the group, so prices vary from year to year.
Facts about Everest
- Everest, part of the Himalayan mountain chain, is 29,035 feet (8,848 meters) high.
- A sedentary volcano in the Hawaiian Islands, Mauna Kea ranks first among the highest mountains in the world, not counting sea level.
- Everest is more than 60 million years old and was formed by the pushing of the Indian tectonic plate towards the Asian one. Due to seismic activity in the region, Everest grows about a quarter of an inch (0.25") taller every year.
- The peak is located right on the border line of Nepal to the south and China, also known as Tibet, to the north.
- Chomolungma (translated from Tibetan) literally means “holy mother of the universe.”
- To keep warm, climbers are advised to use oxygen at the summit. As for food, it is useful to eat a lot of rice and noodles even before the ascent, since you will need a serious supply of energy for such an expedition. On average, climbers burn more than 10,000 calories daily, and this number doubles during the summit; Over the course of the expedition, participants lose 10 to 20 pounds of weight.
- In the entire history of attempts to conquer the peak, it is officially known that 282 people (including 169 Western climbers and 113 Sherpas) died on Everest from 1924 to August 2015. If we talk about the causes of death, 102 climbers were injured while attempting to climb without the use of additional oxygen. Most of the bodies remain in the snow and gorges to this day, although Chinese officials have reported that many bodies have been removed. The most common cause of death is snow avalanches and rockfalls, followed by avalanches and third by altitude sickness.
- The youngest person ever to reach the top is an American schoolboy named Jordan Romero. He made his ascent at the age of 13, on May 23, 2010 (he climbed the peak from the north side).
- 14 climbers managed to cross from one side of the peak to the other.
- Wind speeds at the summit can reach 200 mph.
- On average it takes about 40 days to complete the climb. The fact is that the human body needs some time to get used to being at such a height above sea level and to acclimatize immediately before the ascent.
- The first climbers who managed to climb the peak of Everest without using additional oxygen in cylinders were the team of Reinold Messner and Peter Hubler (Italy) back in 1978. Later, 193 climbers who followed their example also managed to reach the summit without resorting to additional oxygen (this accounts for 2.7% of all ascents to the peak). Each breath taken at the top of Everest contains 66% less oxygen than a breath taken at sea level.
- To date, approximately 7,000 ascents to the peak of Everest have been made, with more than 4,000 people participating in all known routes.
- The oldest climber to conquer the mountain was Miura Yuchiro (Japan), who climbed at the age of 80 on May 23, 2013.
- There are 18 different official routes to the summit of Everest.
- The first woman to reach the top of Everest was Japanese climber Junko Tabei (1975).
- In order not to fall off rocks and glaciers, climbers use nylon ropes with a diameter of 10 millimeters. Special metal spikes (“crampons”) are put on the soles of the boots to prevent slipping. In addition, ice axes are used, which can stop a possible fall on a rocky and icy surface. When it comes to clothing, climbers opt for thick suits that are filled with goose feathers.
- Sherpas are the collective name for the people who live in western Nepal. Initially, several centuries ago, they migrated from Tibet. Today they help climbers prepare for the climb by helping to carry food, tents and other supplies to the intermediate camps located above the base camp.
- Climbers begin using oxygen tanks at an altitude of 7,925 m (26,000 ft). but this only makes a 915 m (3,000 ft) difference in how they feel. In principle, at an altitude of 8230 m (27,000 ft) a person will feel like at 7315 m (24,000 ft) above sea level, which, in fact, will not make a significant difference in the well-being of climbers.
- Temperatures at the peak can drop as low as -62C (80F below zero).
Story
Everest appeared on the earth's surface about 60 million years ago. The mountain has quite a long history of “first climbers”, starting with an unsuccessful attempt that was made back in 1921 by the British expedition of George Mallory and Guy Bullock. Much later, in 1953, the highest peak on Earth was finally conquered by a brave team of Italian climbers Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. The history of ascents and new achievements continues to this day. But the world's highest peak is not only a vantage point or a major challenge for climbers, but also home to the mountain people, the Sherpas, who have lived there for more than 500 years. This small nation is the best guides and porters for tourists and professionals who decide to defy fate and climb the highest and most difficult peak on our planet.
Where is Everest located?
Everest is not only the highest mountain, it is also the highest point located on the border of two countries. The mountain is located between the territories of China and Nepal, but its peak is in China, or more precisely, in the Tibet Autonomous Region. Everest is part of the Himalaya mountain system and is only one of the nine peaks of this mountain range. Interestingly, the Himalayas consist of the thirty-nine highest peaks in the world, so Everest has many younger "brothers". Together they form a fence between the Tibetan and Indian subcontinental plateaus.
The entire mountain system is located in South Asia and passes through Pakistan, Bhutan, Tibet, India and Nepal. This is the reason why Everest has several names. In Tibet it is called "Qomolungma", the Chinese version of the name is "Shèngmǔ Fēng". Locals in Darjeeling call it "Deodungha", which translates to "Holy Mountain". For many years it was believed that the highest peak in the world was in the Andes, and only in 1852 was a mathematician from India able to reveal to the world the truly highest mountain.
How did he get his name?
The highest mountain was discovered by George Everest, who served as the Indian Secretary General, in 1841. Since then, the official name that has been given to the highest peak on Earth has been derived from the surname of the discoverer. Before this, the peak was called differently in different countries, based on local languages and dialects. But since the highest point on the planet must have a single name that is understandable to everyone, the name of its discoverer has officially become recognized at the international level.
In what country is Everest located?
At various points in its history, Everest was considered part of both China and Nepal. After annexation in May 1959, relations between Nepal and China became absolutely friendly, and the fact that the border between the countries lies on the peak of the highest mountain in the world is a symbolic confirmation of this. Therefore, theoretically, the peak that is closest to space does not belong to one specific country, but is a common property of Nepal and China. Every tourist who decides to at least look at Everest from the outside, not to mention climb to the top, can choose at his own discretion from which side it is more convenient to do this. But it’s fair to note that the view from Nepal is much more beautiful, and the climb is much easier.
What is the height of Everest?
Imagine that you live in a world where there is no Mount Everest, it has not yet been discovered, and at school the teacher tells you that the highest mountain is the one called Kanchenjunga, or Dhaulagiri, for example. Even in the 19th century, many were convinced that the highest point on our planet was anything but Everest. Only in 1852 was it confirmed that Everest is the highest point on our planet. The height of the mountain is 8848 meters above sea level and increases by 4 millimeters annually due to plate movement. In addition, earthquakes in Nepal can move Everest and even change its height. Thus, modern scientists continue to argue that none of the measurements of the height of Everest from either the Chinese or Nepalese sides are correct. Chomolungma continues to grow. Continental plates do not stand still; they constantly push Everest higher and higher.
Interestingly, the exact height of the mountain is still a matter of dispute. Back in 1856, when British explorers first measured the height of the peak using a theodolite, it was recorded as 8,840 m (or 22,002 ft). Currently, the official height of Everest is 8,848 m (29,029 ft). To imagine how high Everest is, it is enough to understand that its highest point is located almost at the flight level of a fighter plane. Therefore, it is not at all surprising that the slopes of this mountain are not inhabited by animals and birds due to high pressure and rarefied air. However, Everest is home to one rare species of spider that hides in the crevices of the mountains. This insect feeds on other frozen insects that fall to the top with winds and snow masses.
Neighborhood
The Everest massif consists of several individual peaks such as Changtse at 7,580 m (24,870 ft), Nuptse at 7,855 m (58,772 ft) and Lhotse at 8,516 m or 27,940 ft. At the time of the discovery of these peaks, it was very difficult to measure the height of the mountain peak with accuracy. Back then, special instruments called theodolites were used to measure height, weighing more than 500 kg (1,100 lbs) and requiring 10-15 people to move such a device. Several attempts were made to measure the exact height of Mount Everest, and it was only in 1949, shortly before the first ascent, that accurate data was finally obtained.
The closest place where people live is Rongbuk, a Buddhist temple that was founded back in 1902. It was reconstructed not long ago after complete destruction in the 70s of the last century, during the civil war. Currently, this place becomes the last living quarters on the way of climbers to the top of the world. In Rongbuk you can stay in a small hotel and even have dinner in a tiny restaurant.
About height
For nearly three hundred years, the highest known point on Earth was Chimborazo, a volcano in the Andes. Its height is “only” 6,267 meters. In the 19th century, this version was destroyed as a new champion became known to the world - Nanda Devi Peak in India with a height of 7,816 meters. This may seem funny, but today Nanda Devi ranks only 23rd in the list of the highest mountains in the world. But there is a reason that the listed peaks were indeed the highest points of the known world at that time: after all, Nepal, which is not without reason called the roof of the world, was closed to everyone for a long time.
Everest is officially one of the most polluted mountains in the world due to the lack of infrastructure and the presence of a constant influx of tourists. Numerous groups leave behind a huge amount of garbage, ranging from simple food bags to oxygen tanks and old equipment, which are stored and accumulated for decades on the slopes of this mountain, considered sacred by local residents.
Scientists are constantly finding the remains of marine life that were fossilized in the structure of rocks 450 million years ago, at a time when the surface of Everest was not yet a peak or a mountain, but remained part of the seabed. The Himalayas were formed only 60 million years ago. The record holders for visiting the peak of Everest are two Sherpas: Apa Sherpa and Tashi Phurba, who managed to climb the peak 21 times, having the opportunity to admire the alpine landscape of the Himalayan mountains from the highest point.
Mortality
Unfortunately, Mount Everest turned out to be a very difficult place to climb and is rightfully considered one of the most dangerous peaks on Earth. The danger lies in record low temperatures and air with low oxygen content, frequent landslides and avalanches, which took many lives of local residents and climbers who decided to overcome this height. The greatest tragedy in the history of Everest occurred in 2014, when a huge avalanche killed 16 local Nepalese guides. This happened near one of the base camps. The second largest tragedy was in 1996, when 15 climbers did not return from the ascent.
These people died due to various reasons, some due to the use of inappropriate equipment, others due to a lack of oxygen in the cylinders or unexpected changes in weather conditions that made it impossible to return to base camp. The third largest number of victims was the unsuccessful expedition of 2011, when 11 people remained forever in the snows of the Himalayan mountains. All of them are buried in the snow and ice of Everest. Avalanches and rockfalls are the most common causes of death on the slopes of Everest.
Everest Base Camps
For those who decide to climb Everest, there are, as mentioned earlier, two options - to start the climb from China or to take the Nepalese route. In order to get used to the atmospheric pressure and acclimatize at altitude, there are two main base camps. In any of them, each tourist will be able to spend the necessary amount of time so that the body gets used to new conditions, since acclimatization in this case will help prevent mountain sickness. Both camps have doctors who can advise climbers and assess everyone's health before climbing. Staying at base camp for some time helps to avoid health problems associated with changes in blood pressure.
The South Camp is located on the Nepal side, and the North Camp is on the Tibetan (Chinese) side of Everest. Although the northern camp can even be reached by car on summer days, the camp on the south side is becoming more and more popular. And, of course, all the residents of the surrounding villages, who were previously engaged in agriculture and livestock raising, are now completely focused on providing visitors with everything they need. They help in transporting things and supplies to the upper intermediate control points, in preparing food, and offering various products. In addition to the main stopover camps on the route to Everest, there are several others located both before and after the main two. They represent way stations on the way to conquering the top of the world.
The supply of food and equipment to the southern base camp occurs through Sherpa porters, since transport links in this region are impossible. Food, medicine and other necessities are delivered using yaks, local pack animals.
Climbing
If you think that everyone can climb Everest if they really want to, you are very mistaken. Firstly, it is very expensive, about 60,000 dollars. Climbing the highest mountain in the world is not just a fun adventure. It is important to understand that this is not ordinary cozy tourism, but a challenge and the risk of mortal danger. Every year, several tourists die trying to conquer this rocky peak: some fall into an abyss or a gap between glaciers, some cannot withstand the high temperatures, and some get altitude sickness.
Naturally, such a difficult test will require serious preparation and a huge amount of special equipment: shoes, clothing, tools and gadgets. A large group of experts and assistants for the proper organization of the trip and many years of experience in climbing other peaks are also required. But if we talk about the process itself, then it is, of course, incredibly exciting. No matter which route you choose, it is recommended to travel with a Sherpa companion. Today the region is home to approximately 3,000 Sherpas, all of whom are top-notch guides, helpers and porters, as well as summit conquerors. In short, the Sherpas are a nation of mountain people. If you've seen the famous photograph of man's first ascent of Everest, you'll understand how amazing, inexpressible in words, the feeling at the top can be. As Tenzing Norgay admitted, “I wanted to jump, dance, these were the best feelings in my life, because I stood above the whole world.”
The most popular season for climbing Everest is spring. Autumn expeditions are less popular. By far the most popular way to climb Everest is through a guided expedition. This ensures that the group will have a professional with them who knows the surest path to the top. In addition, you can rely on his knowledge and experience even in the most unpredictable situations; he is a reliable support and support for the group. The guide will be able to explain to the participants everything they need to know before starting the climb, help them choose the necessary equipment and check the physical and health conditions of the participants in advance.
Plan
The very first step to climbing Everest is to begin proper preparation, including gaining serious experience of climbing other peaks. These are very important requirements, since such an expedition is quite risky and dangerous and requires certain skills. It begins at one of the base camps (on the southern or northern slope), which is selected depending on the route and ascent plan. So, to reach the base camp, located at an altitude of approximately 5,000 m (16,000 ft) above sea level, participants will need about a week. Here they can talk to experienced guides, check their physical condition and get some rest before climbing Everest. Then, for an additional fee, climbers can enlist the help of Sherpa mountaineers who will help carry the necessary equipment, food and oxygen cylinders to intermediate camps.
How long will it take to climb Everest?
Of course, climbing to the top of the world does not mean walking along picturesque snow-covered slopes. For less trained climbers and for those at least minimal risk of developing any disease, the acclimatization period at medium altitude (at base camp at 5100 meters above sea level) can in some cases reach 30-40 days. For a whole month you will be surrounded by Sherpas and your companions until your body gets used to the atmospheric pressure and lack of oxygen. Only after this can you continue climbing. On average, when it comes to backpacking expeditions, the duration of the entire climb (from the moment you arrive in Kathmandu until you reach the highest point on the globe) will be about 60 days. Once everything is prepared, it will take about 7 days to climb from base camp to the summit. After this, approximately another 5 days will be spent on descending to base camp.
The first person to conquer Everest
Although the first person to set foot on the top of the world was Edmund Hillary, many attempts had been made to climb Everest long before him. Back in the twenties, a special expedition of the newly created Everest Committee developed the most optimal ascent routes. It is not surprising that the members of this expedition became the first to set foot on the top of the “sacred mountain” that Everest was for the local residents. And yet, two completely different people, Sir Edmund Hillary and the Nepalese mountaineer Tenzing Norgay, together made the first successful ascent to the summit from the south side and were finally able to find themselves where no one had ever set foot before.
In 1953, when this outstanding event finally happened, China closed Everest to all visitors, and the world community allowed no more than one expedition per year. In conditions of low temperatures, constantly tormented by strong gusts of wind, Tenzing and Hillary, despite the need to stay in one place for several days in a row, were still able to conquer the highest point on the planet. Edmund Hillary dedicated his achievement to the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II of Great Britain, and it was the best gift in honor of a significant event in Great Britain. Although Hillary and Tenzing spent only 15 minutes on top of the mountain, those 15 minutes today are comparable only to the first steps on the moon.
The youngest person to ever reach the top is an American eighth grader from California. He was only 13 years old on the day of the ascent. A resident of Nepal, a 15-year-old girl named Min Kipa Shira, became the second youngest climber to conquer Everest. Her ascent was crowned with success in 2003. The oldest man to reach the summit of Everest was 80-year-old Miura Yuchiro from Japan, and the oldest woman was Tamae Watanabe from Japan, who climbed at the age of 73.
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Everest. A mysterious mountain peak, majestic and formidable at the same time. Everest inspires artists and poets, for example, Nicholas Roerich has a stunning painting of the Himalayas. Everest".
And at the same time, Everest, a mountain that has claimed many human lives, has not forgiven mistakes and neglect. Over the course of the known history of climbing Everest, more than 250 people have died.
Landslides, avalanches, thin air, snowstorms, Everest has prepared many surprises and challenges for climbers.
Chomolungma, as Everest is otherwise called, was discovered by Europeans back in the 19th century. At the same time, the height of the mountain was calculated and the assumption was made that it was the highest in the world.
In 1921, a British-funded reconnaissance expedition took place and included George Mallory, who became the first person to set foot on Everest. However, the peak was never conquered. This was followed by the second and third British expeditions.
The participants of the third British expedition, George Mallory and Andrew Irwin, who died during the ascent, are associated with disputes that have not subsided to this day. Were they able to reach the top of Everest? A question that still does not have a clear answer.
According to the current official version, Everest was conquered much later. Only in 1953 the mountain peak was conquered. On May 29, 1953, members of the next, sixteenth expedition, Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, reached their goal.
So who was the first in the world to conquer Everest? Do we agree with the generally accepted version and consider Edmund Hillary and Tenzin Norgay as the discoverers of Everest, who left candies buried in the snow at the top?
Or will we try to solve the mystery of the climbers of the third expedition? Probably each of us should answer this question for ourselves.
