The time was about 10 o'clock in the morning. I woke up early and didn’t want to fall asleep again. After lying there for about half an hour, an interesting thought occurred to me. And she came to me because from the window of my house I can see the roof of my neighbors. A cat was walking along this roof, carrying some food in its teeth. Whether it was a fish or a piece of meat remained unknown to me. However, it is precisely the thoughts about fishing in winter – began to appear in my head. After 15 minutes of thought, I came to the conclusion that it would be nice to catch fish without much time investment. Namely, use a scarf as the main fishing tool. In case anyone has forgotten, a scarf is a triangular-shaped net. A piece of wire up to 1.5 meters long is used as a load, and a foam float is tied on top. This is the gear I decided to use to fish. The technique of installing a scarf in winter has long been known to me. A couple of years ago I already had experience installing nets on ice, and at the same time I installed several gussets. Unfortunately, I don’t remember the result of the last fishing, so I decided to experiment and hope for the best. With these thoughts in mind, I already put on the kettle and warmed up some porridge for myself. The entire process of eating food was accompanied by brain activity. By finishing the last cookie, I already knew exactly what and how I would do in the next hour.
The day turned out to be surprisingly cold. I didn’t have time to look up the weather on the Internet, and I don’t have a regular thermometer. Putting on sports tights and a light jacket, I went to the garage. Going out into the yard, I realized that I had dressed very lightly, but returning was a bad omen. Fortunately, the garage is located 10 meters from the entrance to the house. I live in the private sector. Therefore, I did not manage to freeze pretty much, although the weather was conducive to this. Having quickly found my bearings in the garage, I took out several metal rods with scaffolding and ropes wound around them. These were scarves. I had them because as a child I was fond of knitting these same scarves. Having dragged all this dirt into the house, I began to prepare for the upcoming trip to the ice.
The essence of the invented method was as follows. Having drilled a hole, she is fed with an abundance of food. After lowering the fertilizer, a scarf is placed. Everything is simple and not tedious. The good catchability of this method would mean that you would no longer have to sit with a fishing rod waiting for a bite. I installed a few scarves and you can go home. The catch was planned to be collected the next day. However, an option would also be suitable, in which fishing is also done with a fishing rod, and scarves are like a safety net and confidence in the availability of the catch. 
As an experiment, I decided to use a small mesh scarf. The cell size was 18 mm. Those who understand these meanings now grinned. The fact is that this is a very small mesh, and you can only catch live bait in such a scarf. However, it was not the big catch that drove the process, but my curiosity. The gusset was checked for holes and equipped with an additional piece of scaffolding. When fishing in summer, the scarf is simply thrown into the water with a stick. You can also lower it from the boat. In winter, you need to lower the scarf into a narrow hole from under the ice screw. That's why an additional piece of fishing line was required, attached to one of the ends of the weight wire. Having secured one end, I measured a couple of meters and tied the other end of the line to the main rope. Now the scarf can be lowered into the hole, holding it by an additional piece, and after it is in the water column, I will take the main rope, and the scarf itself will take the correct shape in the water.
The scarf was ready for fishing. Meanwhile, in the kitchen, water was boiling in a saucepan. I was cooking porridge. Or rather, I cooked several types of cereals. It was semolina, peas, pearl barley. A little bit of everything, but in the end it turned out to be half a plastic bag. I mixed all the porridges together, and also added soaked bread. Having put the mass in a plastic container, I went to get dressed.
By that time I had already checked the weather. -28 degrees. For many anglers, this temperature is unacceptable. But I, charged with optimism and enthusiasm, could not retreat. Felt boots, a warm jacket, three pants, three socks, a hat, a down jacket and mittens - that's what I was wearing that day. I left the house.
It would seem that everything is ready and you can move forward. But I did not find the ice screw in its usual place. Then I remembered that in the fall I used to dig holes for fence posts with them. At this point, experienced fishermen will smile again. Because the ice drill, after interacting with the ground, could hardly drill into the ice with confidence. I wouldn't say I didn't try to do something. Taking a file, I worked magic on the dull knives. In the end, this turned out to be, of course, not enough, but first things first.
I forgot to say that I am satisfied with winter fishing, interesting and traditional. That is, even with a fishing rod, sitting in a warm tent, I fish with interest and pleasure. But experiments and an unconventional approach are a characteristic feature for me. That’s why I’m already approaching the frozen and snow-covered river.
I considered experimenting on the river itself unnecessary and ineffective. It's all about the flow. And the bait, which was supposed to be the key factor, would be carried downstream, thereby distracting the fish from the installed net. I headed to the backwater, so to speak. It’s very good that we have a place nearby where the current has no power over the water. This backwater has connections with the river, but overall it looks like a separate lake. This is where you can find an abundance of fishermen. For reference, I will say that on weekends you can see up to 30 tents with fishermen on the ice. In principle, fish are caught and many people prefer to sit on the ice instead of lying on the sofa.
So I arrived at the place. The frost has pretty much crippled the ranks of winter fishing enthusiasts. In addition, it was already evening, about 4 o’clock. A couple of tents were visible in the distance, and there wasn’t a soul near me.
Having looked around the area, I found a suitable bend near the shore, opposite which, as it seemed to me, there should probably be a fish. This was supported by the fact that there were several wooden sticks, which means that pike were caught here. If there is pike, then there is small fish, I thought. I started drilling a hole exactly between two tent sites. Apparently, fishermen were sitting on them in the morning, and now I had the opportunity to catch the fish they fed. This is where the first incident happened. The ice drill didn't want to drill into the ice. With great difficulty and noise, I drilled only 15 centimeters, and that was because I put a lot of pressure on the ice drill with my weight. Realizing that this attempt would not be successful, I went to study the age of the tent sites. And lo and behold, they were indeed fresh. A few manipulations with the ice auger along the old hole, and I saw water. Sighing with relief, I took out the shabala and pulled out the ice from the hole. Having perked up, I was already scooping up the bait I had prepared at home. And I scooped it into the feeder. It’s worth telling a little about this tool. A homemade feeder designed for targeted delivery of food to the bottom. It is designed in such a way that with a slight movement of the hand, its bottom opens, and all the bait spills out in close proximity to the bottom. I lowered about 3 feeders to the bottom. The capacity of one is a good handful of food. In addition to the bottom, I decided to open the feeder half a meter, and also a couple of times a meter from the bottom. Well, I threw a few handfuls of the remaining food into the hole itself. The remains of the porridge slowly swirled in the lenka, and I circled around it, warming my already freezing legs and arms. – 28 in open areas, and even with the wind it turned into – 30. Literally after 3 minutes, I felt fine and untwisted the tackle with my bare hands. The process of lowering the “fresh” scarf did not cause any trouble. I placed it at the very bottom, slightly pulling the main rope, and giving the scarf a “tight” position. After holding the rope with his finger and making sure that no fish immediately fell into the net, he went for a walk along the lake. Standing still was a bad idea, because, as you know, blood that is not actively circulating in the limbs quickly gets cold. Having made a small circle, which took about 20 minutes of my time, I returned to my gear. He pulled it out and was surprised. There was not a single fish in the scarf. Having thought about it as much as the situation allowed, I decided to place it again, but this time at a distance from the bottom. The fact is that I remembered how last year we caught fry on the first ice. Then the fish could be seen directly from the hole. Small baitfish swam right under the ice. Deciding that maybe now the fish was in the shallow end of the water, I raised the scarf a couple of meters above the bottom level. Another 20 minute walk, again I am standing at the hole. Pulled it out - empty. It was not possible to experiment with the place, again because of the auger, and I began to get ready.
On the way home, I made conclusions and assumptions. Everything concerned without an effective experiment. The main question: “Why?*” I found several answers in my head: Wrong fishing spot. The scarf didn't last long.
It is, of course, impossible to draw exact conclusions, and therefore I set myself up for further experiments. I decided that the first thing I needed to do was buy new knives for the ice auger. Equip a couple more scarves and place them in different parts of the reservoir. I also thought about experimenting with food. Maybe it would be worth using flavorings and live additives - bloodworms or hunchbacks. After all, in winter the fish are not so active, and perhaps in such frost they are not tempted to eat simple porridge.
I was home already at dusk, pretty frozen and surprised by the result of the fishing. But nothing can be done, you need to accept this as a given of today’s experiment and try something else. This was my experience. I wish you a good bite, warm weather, and the realization of your thoughts!
A real fisherman will not sit at home even in severe frost, but the fish do not always meet his desires. Sometimes it is caught, sometimes it is not caught. And in winter, sometimes you really want to sip hot ears! Therefore, many people put winter fishing rods aside and switch to fishing with non-sporting, but effective gear. For example, a scarf. With this simple design you can catch the most different fish: both for fish soup and live bait, and sometimes it gets caught. What kind of gear is this? And what is good about fishing with a scarf in winter?
☸ Design features
⚓ Network
By and large, a scarf is a network. Only a very small one, so it’s hard to call it a poacher. The working element of the scarf is a piece of fishing net in the shape of a regular triangle with sides up to 1.5 meters long. You can cut one out of an old torn fishing net, you just need to find a surviving section in it. The size of the cells can be different; it is selected depending on what kind of prey the fisherman is targeting. To replenish stocks of live bait, a mesh with cells of 18-20 mm is suitable, and if your ambitions are off the charts, then you can install a more serious canvas - 40-50 mm.
⚓ Frame
An equally important component of the scarf is a rod made of metal wire, which acts as a sinker. He not only lowers the tackle to the bottom, but also puts it in the working position, that is, vertically. To prevent such a frame from slipping out of the canvas, ears are made at its ends, and on it itself there are special notches that will securely hold the fixing line or nylon thread. For the scarf to work properly, the mesh at the point of attachment to the wire must sag a little. The ends of a thick fishing line (nylon thread) go to the top of the triangle and are tied together. At the edges of the frame, loops are made for the rope, on which the tackle will be lowered into the hole.
As you can see, there is nothing complicated in this design. To make a scarf for winter fishing, just find an old net, a piece of wire with a diameter of 3-4 mm, a skein of nylon thread and twine. A little effort and she's ready.
☸ Kerchief in action
Anyone can master the technique of fishing with this catchy tackle, even a person who has never been interested in fishing before. True, his catches will be smaller, since he does not know how to find fish sites.
⚓ Where to catch
It is with the search for winter havens of underwater inhabitants that fishing with a scarf in winter begins. Usually these are deep holes, called wintering holes, but this approach is relevant for the middle of the cold season, when the fish practically do not move. But when there is first ice and closer to spring, you should look for fish in the same places where they were caught well in the summer. A big catch and a great mood can be given by installing one or several scarves near the shore, among the remnants of reeds and other vegetation. 
When a suitable location has been determined, you can begin drilling holes. Even if you only have a couple of scarves in your arsenal, there should still be several holes. After the tackle has been in each of them, it will become clear where it is better to fish.
⚓ Feeding
The scarf is perhaps the only net that is used for fishing with bait. This will seem nonsense to sports fishermen, but without complementary foods it is really ineffective. A one-and-a-half-meter canvas, tapering at the top to zero, takes up a tiny space, so the fish have to be literally lured into it. As bait, fans of this tackle use various mixed feeds, steamed wheat or pearl barley, breadcrumbs and even ordinary soaked bread. 
It would be a good idea to mix all of the above, then the bait will attract different types of fish. If you add components of animal origin (food bloodworms, crushed worms) to the mixture, you can count on catching ruffs and perches.
⚓ Fishing technique
When the hole is baited, the tackle is lowered into it. It is best to install it at the bottom, especially since attractive food settles there, although sometimes due to lack of oxygen the fish can rise to the middle and upper horizons. A stick slightly longer than the diameter of the hole is tied to the free end of the rope, which, after installation, is laid across the hole in the ice. It is covered with brushwood on top, and then everything is covered with snow so that potential prey is not frightened by the light spot above its head. Some fans of scarf fishing disguise the end of the rope for another reason, especially when they leave several such gear on a pond for a long time. This way, fisheries inspectors or “colleagues” who are greedy for other people’s property will not be able to see and take them away. 
With a successful combination of circumstances, such as good weather, high activity of underwater inhabitants, and just basic luck, the scarf can bring a huge catch. On the most successful days, the fisherman needs to find the strength within himself and stop in time, so as not to rack his brains about what to do with so many fish. In addition, excessive greed leads to a decrease in fish stocks, and sometimes to the complete extermination of the fish population. What will be left for children and grandchildren with this approach? Nothing!
️ Fishing with a scarf in winter video
Among fishermen there are still many fans of completely non-sporting gear: scarves, screens, paths and other types of nets remain consistently popular, including as additional gear or for. Trophies caught with such gear are quite rare, but its compactness makes the scarf quite common.
Features of the tackle
The fishing headscarf has a simple design: it is a net that, when unfolded, has a triangular shape, which is ensured by a metal rod at the base of the triangle. It not only plays the role of a sinker, sinking the tackle to the bottom, but also holds the net in a straightened state. This point allows you to use the scarf, including for ice fishing in winter.
When folded, the scarf is quite compact and easily fits into a hole of even a relatively small diameter.
Important! This device for catching fish is also considered a net, which means it is classified as poaching gear. And although you won’t catch much with a scarf, a meeting with the fish inspectorate, especially during the spawning period, threatens with considerable fines.
Fishing in spring
A fishing scarf is a fairly effective tackle in the open water season, especially in cases where you need to catch live bait, or just relatively quickly catch fish that are not trophy sizes, for example, for fish soup, and the fisherman is quite familiar with the characteristics of a particular body of water.
When using such gear, it is important to imagine where it will be most effective. If the net is far from the paths along which fish usually move, then you shouldn’t count on a catch.
An option for the open water season - a float holds the tackle in the required position.
When installing a scarf, you need to have a fairly clear idea of the most likely places where fish will accumulate in a particular body of water. Most likely in the spring it will be the growth line of reeds, riverbed edges, snags; installing scarves around a tree fallen into the river may also be quite effective. Sometimes it makes sense to make a little noise, driving fish out of secluded hiding places - this technique is used both for screens and televisions, and for scarves.
Features of ice fishing
Thanks to its specific shape, the scarf, when folded, easily fits into the hole, and after all the tackle is under the ice, it straightens out without any problems. The net is left attached to a stick placed across the hole for a certain time. This principle of fishing allows you to install several kerchiefs at once (in some cases, the count can be dozens of nets), and periodically check them for the presence of a catch.
Important! If the main goal is to catch live bait, then you should not immediately pull out the entire scarf from the hole. First, you should free the fish that are entangled in the upper parts of the net - this way, the rest of the bait will not have time to freeze in the cold.
As promising places for fishing, you should pay attention to the growth line of the reeds. Immediately after freeze-up, fish often continue to stand in such places (especially perch and pike). It is also worth trying to fish near snags and trees fallen into the water, at the entrances and exits of holes. The better the angler is familiar with the features of the bottom topography, the higher the likelihood of success when fishing with a scarf.
The most effective fishing with a scarf will be immediately after freeze-up, since at this time not all the fish have gone to the wintering pits and can still move quite actively around the reservoir. When the fish is not moving, the scarf is practically useless.
Application of bait
A scarf is a fairly small net, which means that some additional factor is needed to attract fish to the place where the net is installed. Along with this gear, you almost always have to use one or another version of bait mixtures. It is important to take into account that the composition of these mixtures will differ significantly depending on the season.
In open water, a light mixture with a pronounced aroma of spices will work well (this smell is attractive to most types of fish). In this case, you should simultaneously use both highly moistened bait balls, which will work when they fall to the bottom, and under-moistened ones, which will create a trail in the water column that attracts fish. In order to increase the effectiveness of bait, animal components of maggots, red dung worms or food bloodworms can be added to its composition.
Important! You can use the technique of feeder athletes: cut the red worm or maggots with scissors, and only then add it to the bait. This smell can attract the attention of even the most passive fish.
Winter varieties are usually less nutritious, their aroma is much weaker, and the color is usually dark. A strong spicy smell or bright colors in winter can, on the contrary, scare away fish from the place where the scarf is installed. A winter version can also be made from summer bait simply by adding a sufficient amount of soil.
You should also pay attention to the method of delivery of bait. In winter, it is better to use special feeders that allow you to release bait directly to the bottom of the reservoir. In the summer, the feeding process is somewhat simpler - ordinary bait balls are quite enough.
How to make it yourself
Making a scarf for fishing with your own hands is quite simple; the process does not require the purchase of any specific materials or tools and is usually made from what is available. For this gear you will need a net, a metal rod with a diameter of at least 5 millimeters, as well as a fairly thick fishing line (at least 0.4 millimeters in diameter) or even a thick nylon thread and a relatively small foam float that will hold the upper edge of the scarf in the desired position. The rod can be shortened to the required length with an angle grinder, but if you don’t have one at hand, you can do this kind of work using a chisel and hammer. The manufacturing algorithm is quite simple:
- The net should be spread out on a flat surface. In the case when the scarf is made from a fragment of another network, you need to cut the fabric of the required shape and size. If it already has the desired triangular shape, you can immediately move on to the next step.
- Using a thick fishing line or nylon thread, the web of the net is fixed to a metal rod (notches should be made on it first). And also this main thread should be passed through the cells of the side walls. If necessary (for example, if there is a strong current in the reservoir), several additional weights can be attached to the rod so that the tackle sinks faster. The main thing in this case is that there is no excess of one gusset in one direction; it is advisable to distribute the load evenly.
- On top, the threads or fishing line passing through the side walls must be secured to a ring, to which a rope will also be attached, with the help of which the scarf is immersed to the required depth. In the summer version of the gear, a foam float can also be added, which is necessary to maintain the net’s vertical position.
If you don’t want to bother making your own, a scarf can be purchased at most fishing stores.
Mesh size
This parameter directly affects what kind of fish you can catch with a scarf. The following options can be roughly distinguished:
- A double-walled version with cells of about 70 millimeters - suitable for serious fish like bream; there will definitely not be small things in the catch. Typically, such nets are made from fairly thick fishing line.
- Cells of 50–60 millimeters are suitable for white bream, more or less large silver bream and roach.
- The single-walled version with a 35 mm cell will perform well on perch, roach, and sabrefish.
- If you need small live bait, then the most suitable option is 20 millimeters or less. The fishing line used is of small diameter, and most often transparent, since fishing is supposed to be done at shallow depths.
Do-it-yourself network weaving
It is impossible to make a scarf for fishing without a net. You can use ready-made Chinese blanks, but often the quality of the fishing line from which such nets are made is extremely low. The lack of tensile strength is often compensated by a larger diameter, which makes the tackle more noticeable. Therefore, although relatively rare, fishermen can weave a net for a scarf themselves.
The main advantage of making it yourself is the ability to choose the fishing line yourself and its characteristics, from diameter and color to behavior at low temperatures (many cheap options “tann”: they lose flexibility and elasticity).
Sometimes braided cords are used as a material for making nets. Their main feature is minimal stretchability and high performance breaking load at small diameter.
For manufacturing, you will need a special strip that will ensure the same size of the mesh cells of the network, and a shuttle on which a supply of fishing line or cord is stored; the shuttle is also used for knitting knots. It is important to take into account that it is possible to knit a net with large cells with a small shuttle, but, on the contrary, with small ones, it will not work: the shuttle simply will not pass through a cell that is smaller than it is in size.
The bar and shuttle for weaving nets have probably changed little over the past few thousand years.
The scarf is a relatively simple tackle both to manufacture and to use, which, however, extremely rarely brings trophy catches. It is most appropriate to use it for catching live bait.
A scarf can be classified as screen gear, such as a fishing screen or, as it is popularly called, a “TV.” They are lowered into the water for a certain time, after which they rise. The result of such fishing will be fish, which during this time may become entangled in the screen’s net. The “TV” has a 4-corner design, and the scarf has a 3-corner design. This makes it possible to use such tackle for winter fishing, since the triangular shape allows you to insert the tackle into the hole. Making a headscarf with your own hands is not that difficult.
Stages of work
The most important thing is to buy it in a store or knit it yourself, network segment, having cells of certain sizes. The size of the cells depends on the size of the fish intended to be caught. If this is live bait, then the cells will be within 20mm, and if these are full-fledged specimens, then the size of the cells can be within 50mm and above.
Then you need to take rebar rod or ordinary metal and make an isosceles triangle (frame). It can be welded by electric welding, but it is better to make it collapsible. This will allow you to transport and store the gear without any problems.
The next stage is fastening the network fabric to the metal frame using a durable nylon cord, preferably green. The fastening will be correct and effective if each cell of the fabric is attached to the frame.
Final stage
The final stage is control of correct fastening of the network fabric to the frame. Under no circumstances should the fabric be stretched. It must be secured in such a way that the edges of the net sag by at least 5cm. This is achieved by stretching a nylon thread along the perimeter of the scarf, without passing through a single cell. After that:
- The length of each edge of the net is divided into 4 parts.
- The corresponding cells are marked.
After this, the nylon thread is attached to the frame of the tackle in the corresponding cells.
Naturally, it is very difficult to adapt a purchased network to a metal frame exactly as required by the design of a scarf or “TV”. Here you will have to work a lot, putting into practice not only your skills, but also your ingenuity. The only correct approach to solving this problem is to independently weave a network of the required configuration: for a TV - square, and for a scarf - triangular. It’s no secret that this will require some time, but assembling such equipment will require a minimum of time. Basically, fishermen do such work in winter, when there is much more of it than in summer, although in Lately Few fishermen are engaged in weaving gear. It is much easier to go to the store and buy a ready-made network, with any size of cells.
A simple way to knit a fishing net, like a scarf Video
If someone does not know how to connect a similar network, then you can watch the corresponding video, which tells and shows how to quickly and easily connect such a network with your own hands.
Make headscarf it's not very difficult to do it yourself
Making a scarf with your own hands is not very difficult
you can start with a regular, non-folding scarf 180 cm long. It will be catchy and quite easy to make. And transportable.
Consists of headscarf from mesh fabrics, a triangular or trapezoidal piece of reinforcement with a thickness depending on the fishing location. For example, in crucian pond You can use 3 mm reinforcement or a rigid steel rod, or better yet 5 mm thick reinforcement, so as not to bend it due to inexperience. For currents and small-mesh fishing, you can use reinforcement up to 1 cm thick.
Mesh fabric. Take a mesh fabric 1.8 meters high, let’s assume that you are cutting it from a doll (standard fabric is 60 m long and 1.8 m high) and calculate the number of lower cells for the scarf.
Formula: D /A*0.9 Where D is the length of the reinforcement (mm). For our sample it is equal to 1800, and the cell (mm) (for example, 45, 60, 33, i.e. the mesh of the mesh, is the distance of the fishing line between the 2 nearest knots). Usually written on the doll or easily measured with a ruler. 0.9 - landing coefficient.
From the obtained result we take only the whole part, everything after the commas, the fractional part, is discarded. Because this error is taken into account during planting due to the fact that the outermost 4 cm are occupied by fasteners. This whole part number of cells, you need to write it down on a piece of paper. And next to it write down this amount divided by 4. If it is not divisible by a whole, let’s say the remainder of 1-3 cells, then distribute it evenly across all quarters when planting. If in some quarter there is 1 cell more, and in another there is 1 less, then the fishing will not be worse, for this a coefficient of 0.9 is taken into account.
Stretch mesh fabric, so that it hangs on the wall for several meters. Count the amount of A on the mesh fabric from the bottom corner edge. Don’t be too lazy to highlight the bottommost cells of your future scarf with some tied wool thread or something else. Otherwise they always distract you, or knock you down, then you make a mistake and cut it off at an angle, or you have to recalculate... And then you cut it diagonally. From the edge, starting from the second cell from the bottom, cut so that each time the row from the edge is 1 more. You will get a pyramidal diagonal. So, cut to the top cells and separate the unnecessary corner of the mesh fabric (don’t throw it away, it may be useful for something later). You should get a pyramidal structure of the edge of the canvas. And the lowest cell is the one you marked; you haven’t reached the other one yet. Stretch this canvas somehow so that everything is visible.
Start counting along the bottom edge the number of cells A that you have calculated. Having reached the desired cell, stick a small piece of electrical tape on it or highlight it with a thread. Hold this cell and slowly cut, starting from the next one, in an upward diagonal direction so that each next row of your scarf decreases by one. You will immediately see this diagonal of cells, and the main thing is not to lose sight of it. To do this, you need to stretch and mark the outer cells. In short, you will end up with a triangular piece of canvas. If there is not one cell on top of this triangle, but several, this is normal. This depends on the size of the cell you are cutting. The main thing is that the side parts are cut off sequentially, i.e. without carving by eye, - precisely concealing one at a time. Otherwise they make a mistake, and then it’s hard to catch. By the way, that’s why it’s risky to buy store-bought fabric cut for scarves; they cut the doll so that it’s more economical and a smaller piece. And the canvas itself is kind of cheap. And the odds are not taken into account.
Bottom load. Take reinforcement 5 mm and 180 cm long. Straighten it. So that it is straight, like a stretched thread. The edges of the reinforcement at a distance of 2 cm are processed with a chisel to make notches. For each edge, it is enough to make 6-7 good deep cuts on both sides. You can also suffer with a file, but it’s easier with a chisel. If it’s not difficult for you, you can flatten the edges, also by 2 cm, and then make notches on the side surfaces of the flattened reinforcement. For the most skillful ones, you can weld small wire rings 0.5 cm in diameter (a simple wire, approximately 1 mm in diameter, twisted so that there is a ring and legs, and weld these legs) or drill holes at a distance of 2 cm from the edges. 2 centimeters along the edges - a technological gap. Various fasteners are carried out on it, and additional elements can be installed.
The mesh fabric is attached to the rod. To do this, a nylon thread is threaded into all the lower cells, no thicker than a thread of shoe polish (no more than 1mm). The length of the thread should be 2.1 m. Having threaded the thread into the lower cells, we attach this thread with reliable knots to the notches of the reinforcement on both sides. In this case, it is necessary that the thread between the fastenings is not tensioned. The slack should be such that if you put the reinforcement behind 2 extreme points(2 cm each) for example for 2 stools, = then the resulting sag should be 4-6 cm. And the fastening units themselves - you need to make sure that the ends of the rope do not dangle. And you need to tie it in such a way that there is no twisting of the thread around the reinforcement, so that the thread is parallel to the reinforcement. By the way, the outermost side cell must be tied together with the knot that secures the string. This applies to both sides.
After this, we mark the gap between the extreme nodes on the reinforcement - into 4 equal parts. We make marks on the reinforcement with some kind of marker or chalk. Then we remember how many cells accounted for 1/4 of the total number. If there was a remainder of 1-3 pieces, then we distribute it into one additional cell in each quarter. Until the remainder runs out. For example, there were 43 cells. Mentally divided by 4 - we got 10 cells and 3 left. Then we make the first 3 of 4 quarters - 11 cells each, and the remaining quarter - 10 cells. We wrap a thread with cells with electrical tape, making sure that the resulting quarter contains the number of cells we need. The electrical tape should lie between the cells, grabbing only the thread to the reinforcement. And, if we take an example, you will get the 1st, 2nd, 3rd quarters - 11 cells each, and the 4th - 10 cells.
Next, a side vein is threaded into the extreme lateral diagonals of the scarf. This can be a nylon cord or a thick fishing line 0.8 - 1 mm in diameter, whichever is more convenient and expedient for you. The thread is threaded along one diagonal up, then along the other extreme diagonal - down. And then you begin to maneuver the length of the vein. Immediately - tie one end of the strand in the place where it went down to the edge, over the knot of the lower selection. This is why notches and technical gaps of 2 cm were needed. The other end of the side strand is not yet fixed, and you can change the overall length of the strand by pulling or pulling cell by cell by the second end of the strand. Your task is to make the strands of such length that the total height of the mesh fabric in the most high point the scarf was 153 cm. But at the same time you should have a margin of + 8 cm for the scarf fastening loop. This reserve is not included in the height of the scarf; it is immediately marked out like a loop, but it is not tightened until the desired height of the scarf is achieved. This height is determined by the coefficient vertical landing 0.85 of the total height of the fabric 180 cm. With this fit, your scarf will have a slight slack in the mesh fabric. And then it will be better to get confused in it. And if you are fishing by hand, for example, from a bridge, then a poked fish, even larger than the one caught in your cell, may not get entangled in your scarf for long, but you will have time to pick it up and it will be in this bag. Therefore, you should not make too much sag in the lower catch, so that the fish from the net bag does not jump out into the sag in the catch. For our scarf, I have already calculated the lengths of the side veins - they are equal to 178 cm each. But to them you need to add the length of the loop +8 cm, and the length of the thread for tying knots along the edges - 15 cm on each side. In total, you need to measure 178*2 + 8 + 15*2 = 394 cm for the side strip.
The excess that remains after tying the knot should be pulled into the upper loop, let it be longer. But the final height of the scarf and the length of the veins must remain unchanged. The upper loop is a simple knot made from strands folded in two, which, by the way, captures the upper parts of the upper cells. It is necessary to tighten so that the cells do not fall out and the knot does not unravel spontaneously. But while you’re setting it up, you don’t need to tighten it too much. Having achieved the desired height, you somehow mark the thread of the side vein in the place where the tip of the scarf triangle will be, and try to have the same length of veins on the sides. This is not difficult to do, even by eye, but it is better to measure it. And then you tie the second end of the string to the technological gap.
On the right headscarf, when you lift it by the loop, the mesh fabric is tensioned evenly, but with visible slack, and the reinforcement is parallel to the floor. If there is a distortion, it is better to eliminate it immediately by manipulating the string in the loop. As a result, you should get a triangular piece of network, the bottom of which is - rigid reinforcement.
Kerchief attaches to the top loop. If you are fishing vertically, from a bridge or from ice, you need to make some kind of alarm when fish hit. This could be a twig stuck into the ice, to the top of which a thread of a scarf is attached, a float that you made with a removable antenna, and it runs freely until the scarf melts to the bottom, and only then you clamp the rope in the float with the antenna ( it should be a float the size of a fist, and the antenna should be some kind of wooden rod the thickness of a pencil, which is inserted into the hole of the float under tension). The mesh should be tensioned with a float or rod. And you shouldn’t give in any slack. If you did everything correctly, you will immediately see that your landing is similar to landing on a good net. And you can fish with it in the bay, on the sea, and in the crucian pond. Moreover selected crucian carp, while you might not have caught them with a fishing rod, (their head hurts) you don’t want to eat them. Or you want it, but not what you planted.
You need to determine how many scarves you want to make. This affects your costs for netting or fishing line. It is more expedient to buy a whole canvas 60 m long and 1.8 m high at once. This is the most universal height size. And at the same time, this length of mesh fabric will be enough for you for several seasons of continuous use of scarves, when you no longer darn the old fabric, but simply cut it off and plant a new one. In addition, you will probably want to make more than one scarf. After all, it’s more interesting to put a scarf in several not overgrown places, for example in a crucian carp pond, and then feed these places. It is not necessary to make the scarf as long as they usually sell in the store. There they cut off a minimal piece of canvas and sell it at such a price that if you regularly fish with scarves and change canvases, you will very quickly understand that it is better to pay once and buy an excellent Finnish or Japanese cloth made of durable and, at the same time, the thickness of the fishing line you need, and then make the scarves that you need. At least 2 meters, at least 4.
Then you will get the hang of making scarves, and if you fish in deep places, from a boat, or in a hole in winter, you can make scarves 4 meters long. (Don’t forget that sometimes the fishing depth will not allow you to use such large scarves. In shallow water, for example, they will not stand up). Naturally, scarves can be folding. The odds remain the same. The division of the bottom cord is 4 parts each half (if you fold the scarf into 2 parts). Don't forget to slightly increase the length of the bottom cord so that you can unfold and fold the scarf. But also remember that a large gap between the selection and the fittings is a loophole for fish.
A folding scarf can be made from your ready-made scarf 1.8 in length or more. The calculation is that you have made the scarf more transportable, but at the same time increased its length.
It's easy to do. The lower reinforcement is cut into as many pieces as you need. And in places of cuts, a metal tube is put on one side of the reinforcement up to half the length of the tube, so that it fits onto the reinforcement with a small gap or tightly. And the tube is made at least 7 cm long. It can be more than 10, 12. On the side on which the tube is placed, it is pinched with a hammer blow so that it does not dangle. Or come up with another way to strengthen the tube on the fittings. A piece of reinforcement is inserted into the remaining hole. For example, such a scarf, as described in the example, will be 94 - 98 cm in the folded state without rings due to the protruding part of the tube. It is convenient to wrap such a folded scarf around a ski box or ice auger, put it in a backpack and transport it like that, and then unfold it on the spot.
The side veins of a scarf longer than 180 cm can form an isosceles triangle with the length of the side vein being 10 cm longer than the lower reinforcement. But at the same time, on each strand you need to attach a rope (upper selection), so that at a height of 153-155 cm from the reinforcement it passes between the strands, the upper loops of the scarf are hung on it, they do not need to be divided into parts, just thread all the cells onto this rope, the outer ones fasten the upper harness together with the tie-down knots. Try to make knots so that they do not stick out. And so that pieces of thick rope or fishing line do not cling to the cells, it is better to wrap them with electrical tape, or come up with something else. It is unacceptable for the upper harness to tighten the side strings, violating the shape of the triangle, and at the same time, it is unacceptable for it to dangle hanging. It is allowed to sag in the upper harness no more than 2 cm when the gusset is fully tensioned and the reinforcement is hanging. Those. The final adjustment of the upper trim should be done last.
If the height of the scarf is about 4 meters, it will catch with the lower part at a level of 153 cm. You can make such a scarf so that it catches at the entire height. Simply combine on one upper selection both the upper cells of the lower fabric and the lower cells of the upper one. But I didn’t make such a scarf, because most of our fish are caught in the bottom layer, even on great depths at 10-13 meters. It is obvious that in terms of the height of the hit into the scarf, it falls in the lower 50-60 cm.
Additional winter fishing attributes may be required. These are side rings and winter lifting thread. The side rings are needed to prevent the edge of the reinforcement from getting into the cell, after which the gusset will not be able to stand under the ice. These rings are made of 1-1.5 mm steel wire. The diameter of the rings is 5 mm larger than the double cell of the gusset. But no more than the diameter of the hole that you can drill. We must also take into account that the hole is slowly freezing over. In general, the wire should be spring-loaded and slightly compressed, if the diameter is large, when it enters the hole, and then no deformation. The ring is easy to make. The circle is bent, 2 bends are made at a distance of 5-7 mm from each other. And 2 such rings are attached, one piece on each side, in the place of technological gaps. You can weld them, or wrap them with thin wire - at your discretion. Just make sure that nothing comes out, that everything is smooth and wrapped with electrical tape on top. Otherwise, all the time there are burrs, bitten off ends of the wire, bent, and the cell tries to snag the whole thing. So you definitely need to wrap it.
The winter thread is attached to the ring, screwed in the opposite place where the ring is attached to the part of the scarf. Or, if you don’t install rings (for example, when using a 180 cm scarf, you don’t need to install them; in the proportion I indicated, side hooks are practically eliminated), from any technological gap. This thread is attached to either side, right or left. The upper part of the thread should be attached above the place where the top loop of the scarf is attached to the approximate thickness of the ice, + 15 cm. That is, if in winter your ice is at least 70 cm thick, then you need to attach your Winter thread above the place where the loop is attached to lifting thread, 70 + 15 = 85 cm. The thread should not warp the scarf. It should hang with a slightly noticeable sag. In winter, you lower the scarf into the hole sideways. Ice drill knives should be placed to make the hole as wide as possible. Those. When in combat working condition, we lower the scarf vertically. This is where rings and careful sealing of all ends from the fasteners are needed. Under the ice, the scarf straightens out on its own and returns to its original horizontal position. After that, lower it to the bottom, attach a float or twig. Waiting for fish. Gotcha - there is a signal. Raise the main rope to which the scarf and winter thread are tied (the winter thread is tied above), and soon you will see it. Then you just grab this winter thread and pull the scarf! Kerchief under the ice it takes a vertical position and is pulled out into the hole!
If you have a large scarf of 4 meters, made of 8 mm smooth reinforcement (this is exactly what I have for depths), then in general you need to make both the main and winter threads from a braided nylon cord (so that it does not twist), and make all the knots strong . Because sometimes there are so many fish that you can barely pull it into the hole, there is such a force of friction and heaviness. And if there is a flock of breams, then this is where a double scarf is needed, because the single scarf cracks and bursts when entering the hole. But this is if the fishing line is bad. But Finnish paintings generally hold up.
View of an ordinary headscarf in assembled condition - with all additional elements
Type of scarf with top selection
And how they pull her into the hole
