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1 UDC, FIRST RESULTS OF BATHYMETRIC SURVEY OF THE RING VOLCANIC LAKE (ONEKOTAN ISLAND, NORTHERN KURIL ISLANDS) 2017 D.N. Kozlov 1, A.V. Degterev 1, A.V. Rybin 1, I.G. Koroteev 1, I.M. Klimantsov 1, O.V. Chaplygin 2, I.V. Chaplygin 2 1 IMGiG FEB RAS, Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, ; 2 IGEM RAS, Moscow, The paper presents the first results of a bathymetric survey of the volcanic lake Koltsevoye (Onekotan Island, Northern Kuril Islands). Its main morphological elements and morphometric parameters are described, and a bathymetric diagram is presented. Key words: volcano, caldera, volcanic lake, morphology. INTRODUCTION Over the last decade, employees of the laboratory of volcanology and volcano hazard of the Institute of Marine Geology and Geophysics (IMGiG) FEB RAS have been studying unique and hard-to-reach objects - volcanic (crater) lakes of the Great Kuril Ridge. Research is carried out using modern digital echolocation survey techniques with synchronous satellite georeferencing of profiles (Kozlov, 2010, 2013, 2015, 2016; Kozlov, Belousov, 2007; Kozlov et al., 2016; Kozlov, Zharkov, 2009a, 2009b; Kozlov et al. , 2012). As a result of the work carried out, the features of the morphology of volcanic lakes were identified and their exact morphometric characteristics were calculated (Table 1), the specifics of the genesis, functioning and evolution of lake systems were established, and their current state was described. Lake Koltsevoye on the island. Onekotan is one of the least studied volcanic reservoirs of the Kuril Islands. Geomorphologists and limnologists have practically not studied this unique and truly grandiose body of water, which is a large reservoir of fresh water. For the first time, echo sounding measurements of the lake were carried out by A.B. Belousov in 2006 (Levin et al., 2007) using a high-precision digital echo sounder and satellite georeferencing of profiles. Information about these measurements has not been published in the form of profiles or diagrams, but they are the first literary mention of the maximum depth of the lake at 264 m. brief information on the morphology of the lake (according to A.B. Belousov and our information) is contained in the monograph “Crater Lakes of the Kuril Islands” (Kozlov, 2015). GEOLOGICAL AND GEOMORPHOLOGICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THE STUDY OBJECT Volcanic Lake. Koltsevoe is located in the caldera of the Tao-Rusyr volcano, which forms the southern part of the island. Onekotan (Fig. 1). Its structure is represented by the gently sloping shield volcano Tao-Rusyr, which acts as a pre-caldera base within a massif built according to the Somma-Vesuvius type. The diameter of the base of the structure is ~15 16 km, the diameter of the caldera is 7.5 km, and its area is 45 km 2. The formation of the caldera occurred as a result of a catastrophic explosive eruption, which, according to radiocarbon dating of charcoal from pyroclastic flows (Gorshkov, 1967; Kamchatka, 1974; Newest , 2005) occurred ~8350 years ago. (age calibration according to (Weninger, Joris, 2004). The total volume of juvenile and resurgent material (tephra, explosive deposits, pyroclastic flow deposits) of the Tao caldera eruption 89
2 KOZLOV et al. Table 1. Morphometric characteristics of volcanic lakes of the Kuril Islands. Lake name Hot Boiling Beautiful Turquoise Broughton Malachite Peephole Black Ring island Kunashir Kunashir Iturup Simushir Simushir Ketoi Ketoi Onekotan Onekotan Average volcano Golovnina Golovnina Urbich Zavaritsky Uratman Ketoi Pallas Peak Nemo Tao-Rusyr coordinates 43 52" N, "E" N, "E" N, "E" N, "E" N, "E" N, "E" N, "E" N, "E" N, "E relative height above sea level sea, 11 mirror area, km 2 length coastline, km volume, km 3 length, km width max., km depth max., m ph n.a. 7.5 n.a. n.d. n.d. n.d. n.d. -\\- age, thousand years ~ ~60-80 n.d. n.d. n.d. n.d. ~10 ~8 -\\- hydrotherms (up to 80 C) (up to 95 C) no (up to 40 C) no yes yes no up to 30 C -\\- 90
3 FIRST RESULTS OF BATHYMETRIC SURVEY Fig. 1. Location diagram of Onekotan Island (a), Tao-Rusyr caldera and Koltsevoye volcanic lake (b). Rusyr according to (Bazanova et al., 2016) amounted to 3 km, with a weight () 10 9 tons. Deposits of pyroclastic flows associated with this event currently occupy a significant part of the eastern coast of the island, gradually decreasing in thickness from south to north . In addition, pyroclastic deposits also formed a depression between the Tao-Rusyr somma and the Shestakov mountain massif (absolute height m) along the Fontanka and Olkhovaya rivers. The mountain is named after the Russian explorer Vasily Afanasyevich Shestakov, who participated in an expedition to the Kuril Islands in the years. (Braslavets, 1983). Juvenile fragments from pyroclastic flows have a pumice-like appearance and their composition corresponds to andesite (SiO wt.%) (Gorshkov, 1967). The caldera of the Tao-Rusyr volcano is completely closed, has steep, sometimes almost vertical walls. The inner part of the caldera is occupied by the waters of the closed lake. Ring (Fig. 2 on page 1 of the cover). In the northwestern part of the caldera, the post-caldera stratovolcano Peak Krenitsyn (absolute height 1324 m), crowned with a summit crater, rises from the bottom of the lake (Fig. 3). The volcano is named after the explorer of the Aleutian Islands, head of the government expedition, captain 1st rank Pyotr Kuzmich Krenitsyn (Braslavets, 1983). The cone has a relative height of 900 m, the diameter of its base is 3.5 km. The crater of the central cone has a diameter of ~250 m and a depth of ~100 m. The active volcano Krenitsyn Peak (absolute height 1326 m) is considered one of the most beautiful volcanoes of the Great Kuril ridge and is a kind of standard volcanic structure of the Somma-Vesuvius type. The ideal geomorphological expression, proportionality and originality of the elements of the construction of Krenitsyn Peak Tao-Rusyr are superbly described by the famous domestic volcanologist G.S. Gorshkov (1967, p. 26): “The general view of the giant caldera bowl on the top of the mountain, where, framed by gloomy rocks, a lake of a deep blue tone sparkles, from which a cone rises, covered with green grass and motley colored volcanic rocks, presents an unforgettably beautiful picture.” The structure of the Tao-Rusyr volcano is composed of basalts, basaltic andesites and andesites (SiO wt.%). The extrusive dome of the 1952 eruption has a dacyandesite and dacite composition (SiO wt.%) (Gorshkov, 1967; Fedorchenko et al., 1989). Data on the historical activity of the Krenitsyn Peak volcano are limited. In the work of G.S. Gorshkova (1967) mentions that in 1846 and 1879. the volcano exhibited solfataric activity. After this, until 1952, there was no information about the eruptive activity of the volcano in the literature available to us. In November 1952, the only reliably known historical eruption of the Krenitsyn Peak volcano occurred, the details of which are known quite well due to the fact that eyewitnesses were able to observe it (Gorshkov, 1958). 91
4 KOZLOV et al. Fig. 3. Crater of the Krenitsyn Peak volcano, August 2015. Photo by O.V. Chaplygin. As of August 2015, no visible manifestations of solfataric activity on the volcano were observed either in the summit crater or on the 1952 extrusive dome (Fig. 4a on page 4 of the cover). Thermal water outlets were visually observed only in the area of the 1952 dome: along the water's edge for meters to the northwest (Fig. 4b on page 4 of the cover). All of them were low-income and, apparently, they were also described in the work of G.S. Gorshkova (1967). The temperature in the springs that discharged directly within the water's edge and did not have time to mix with lake waters reached ~30 C. Within the areas of underwater discharge, according to measurements with a temperature sensor built into the echo sounder emitter, it turned out to be significantly lower, down to 14 C. MATERIALS AND METHODS The materials that form the basis of this study were obtained during expeditionary work on the Kuril Islands in the period from July 25 to August 21, 2015, carried out within the framework of the Russian-Belarusian project “Monitoring the Union State: creating a database of subject-specific features and spectral characteristics obtained at ground-based control and calibration sites and in seismically and volcanically active zones, based on field measurements with a spectral hardware and software complex” (Rybin et al., 2015a; Rybin et al., 2015b). A bathymetric survey of the lake was carried out from August 12 to 14, 2015 by a team of researchers from the Institute of Geology and Geography, Far Eastern Branch of the Russian Academy of Sciences and the Institute of Geology of Ore Deposits, Petrography, Mineralogy and Geochemistry of the Russian Academy of Sciences (Kozlov et al., 2016). The work was carried out according to a proven methodology (Kozlov, 2013; 2015) using a Lowrance “LMS-527cDF igps” echo sounder with an integrated navigation receiver (GPS), and a “Cat Fish 240” inflatable boat with a low-power outboard motor (2.5 HP). In a short time, due to the tight work schedule of the expedition vessel and the need to conduct planned research at other sites, it was possible to obtain information about the structure of the lake basin. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION In total, during the work, 27 echolocation profiles with a total length of ~30.5 km were obtained, as a result of which a bathymetric diagram of the lake was constructed (Fig. 5). According to our data, the maximum depth of the lake reaches 369 m. This allows us to say that Lake Koltsevoye is the deepest freshwater body of water not only in the Kuril Islands and the Sakhalin region as a whole, but also in the entire Far East, and is also in fourth place in the list of the deepest deep lakes of Russia (Ryanzhin, Ulyanova, 2000) (Table. 2). In depth it is second only to Lake Baikal (1642 m), the Caspian Sea (1025 m) and Lake Khantay (420 m). The discrepancy between the maximum depths according to our data (369 m) and the data of A.B. Belousov (Levin et al., 2007) (264 m), due to the fact that in 2006 A.B. Belousov examined the northwestern section of the lake, and the deepest place (up to m) is its southeastern part (Fig. 5). 92
5 FIRST RESULTS OF BATHYMETRIC SURVEY Fig. 5. Bathymetric diagram of the volcanic lake Koltsevoye (isobaths are drawn every 60 m, the position of the profiles is marked with a dotted line). Table 2. Lakes of Russia with depths of more than 300 m (according to the state water register of the Russian Federation). Name of the lake Subject of the Russian Federation Maximum depth, m Area, km2 1 Baikal Buryatia. Irkutsk region Caspian Sea Dagestan. Kalmykia. Astrakhan Region Khantaiskoye Krasnoyarsk Territory Koltsevoye Sakhalin Region Teletskoye Republic Altai Kurilskoye Kamchatka Territory The research carried out (Kozlov et al., 2016) allowed us to obtain the following morphometric parameters of the lake: total area 35 km 2 (mirror area 26 km 2), volume 3.75 km 3, length 6.5 km, coastline length 22 km. Morphologically, the reservoir is a ring-shaped basin, enclosed between the internal slopes of the Holocene Tao-Rusyr caldera and the external slopes of the active volcano Krenitsyn Peak. The name of the lake fully justifies itself. The shape of a lake basin with a complex bottom structure can be considered similar to a crescent. During the bathymetric survey, the average temperature of the lake’s water surface was 5 8 C. Gas-hydrothermal outlets located along the water’s edge reached a temperature of 30 C during the research in 2015 (data were obtained using a temperature sensor built into the echo sounder emitter). These outputs were described previously by G.S. Gorshkov (1967). It was also noted that the thermal water discharge zone was marked by colonies of thermophilic algae, which indicates the existence of a stably functioning local ecosystem here. Computer interpretation of echo sounding profiles and analysis of the bathymetric scheme made it possible to establish the nature of the depth distribution in the lake basin. In the northern and northwestern sectors of the lake, relatively small depths of m were observed. In the northeastern part of the lake, the depths are much greater and reach m, while the eastern and southeastern parts account for their maximum, m, which corresponds to the greatest distance between the underwater slopes of the caldera and volcano Peak Krenitsyn. It should be noted that part of the data on the southwestern part of the lake was lost due to a malfunction of satellite equipment. When surveying in this place, the GPS-referencing was interrupted, and the depth data continued 93
6 press to sign up. In this regard, there is no bathymetric coverage in this part of the lake. CONCLUSION During the research, an echo sounder survey of the lake was carried out. Koltsevoe, on the basis of which a bathymetric scheme was compiled for the first time, allowing us to obtain original data on the morphology of the bottom of the lake basin. The data obtained allow us to say that the lake is in fourth place in the list of the deepest lakes in Russia (Table 2). Interpretation and analysis of echolocation records showed that in the studied areas of the lake bottom there are no underwater gas-hydrothermal outlets observed, with the exception of the area in the area of the extrusive dome of 1952. The data obtained must be integrated into specialized catalogs and databases on water bodies, as well as in educational, scientific- popular and reference publications. The research was supported by grants from the Far Eastern Branch of the Russian Academy of Sciences (16-I e) and the Russian Foundation for Basic Research (mol_a). References Bazanova L.I., Melekestsev I.V., Ponomareva V.V. and others. Volcanic disasters of the late Pleistocene-Holocene in Kamchatka and the Kuril Islands. Part 1. Types and classes of catastrophic eruptions of the main components of volcanic catastrophism // Volcanology and seismology S Braslavets K.M. History in names on the map of the Sakhalin region // Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk: Far Eastern Book Publishing House, Sakhalin Branch, p. Gorshkov G.S. Active volcanoes of the Kuril island arc // Young volcanism of the USSR. Proceedings of the Laboratory of Volcanology of the USSR Academy of Sciences. M.: Publishing House of the USSR Academy of Sciences, S Gorshkov G.S. Volcanism of the Kuril Island Arc. M.: Nauka, Kamchatka, Kuril and Commander Islands/ Rep. ed. I.V. Luchitsky. M.: Nauka, p. Kozlov D.N. New data on the intra-caldera lake Black (Onekotan Island) // Questions of geology and integrated development of natural resources of East Asia. All-Russian scientific conf. Collection of reports. Blagoveshchensk: IGiP FEB RAS, S. Kozlov D.N. Features of the morphology of crater lakes of the Kuril Islands. Author's abstract. diss. Ph.D. geogr. Sci. St. Petersburg, p. KOZLOV and others. Kozlov D.N. Crater lakes of the Kuril Islands. Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk: State Budgetary Institution of Culture "Sakhalin Regional Museum of Local Lore", Federal State Budgetary Institution of Science Institute of Marine Geology and Geophysics of the Far Eastern Branch of the Russian Academy of Sciences, p. Kozlov D.N. Morphology of the Krasivoe crater lake // Vestnik KRAUNTS. Geosciences Vol. 31. S Kozlov D.N., Belousov A.B. Modern methods for studying intracaldera lakes active volcanoes(on the example of Golovnin Volcano, Kunashir Island, Kuril Islands) // Materials of the XIII Scientific Meeting of Geographers of Siberia and the Far East, Irkutsk, 2007. Vol. 1. Irkutsk: Publishing House of the Institute of Geography named after. V.B. Sochavy SB RAS, S Kozlov D.N. Degterev A.V., Rybin A.V. and others. Preliminary results of a bathymetric study of the volcanic lake Koltsevoye (Onekotan Island, Kuril Islands) / Natural disasters: study, monitoring, forecast: VI Sakhalin Youth Scientific School, Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, October 3-8, 2016 Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk: IMGiG FEB RAS, S Kozlov D.N., Zharkov R.V. Results of the study of the intra-caldera lake Biryuzovoye on the Zavaritsky volcano (Simushir Island, Kuril Islands) // Natural disasters: study, monitoring, forecast: III Sakhalin Youth Scientific School, Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, June 3-6, 2008 Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk: IMGiG FEB RAS , 2009a. S Kozlov D.N., Zharkov R.V. New data on the morphology of intra-caldera lakes on the islands of Kunashir and Simushir // Vestnik KRAUNC. Geosciences. 2009b. 2. Issue. 14. C Newest and modern volcanism on the territory of Russia / Rep. ed. N.P. Laverov, M.: Nauka, p. Kozlov D.N., Rashidov V.A., Koroteev I.G. Morphology of Broughton Bay (Simushir Island, Kuril Islands) // Vestnik KRAUNTS. Geosciences Vol. 20. S Levin B.V., Fitzhugh B., Bourgeois D. et al. Complex expedition to the Kuril Islands in 2006 (stage I) // Bulletin of the Far Eastern Branch of the Russian Academy of Sciences S State Water Register Russian Federation Ryanzhin S.V., Ulyanova T.Yu. Geographical information system “Lakes of the World” GIS WORLDLAKE // DAN T S
7 Rybin A.V., Bogomolov L.M., Degterev A.V. and others. Field volcanological and environmental studies on the Kuril Islands in 2015 // Bulletin of KRAUNC. Geosciences, Vol. 28. S Rybin A.V., Bogomolov L.M., Degterev A.V. and others. International expedition of the Kuril Islands FIRST RESULTS OF BATHYMETRIC SURVEY 2015 // Bulletin of the Far Eastern Branch of the Russian Academy of Sciences, With Weninger B., Joris O. Glacial Radiocarbon Calibration. The CalPal Program // Radiocarbon and Archaeology / Higham T., Bronk Ramsey C., Owen C. (Eds.). Fourth International Symposium. Oxford, PRELIMINARY RESULTS FROM BATHYMETRIC RESEARCH OF KOLTSEVOYE VOLCANIC LAKE (ONEKOTAN ISLAND, THE NORHERN KURILES) D.N. Kozlov 1, A.V. Degterev 1, A.V. Rybin 1, I.G. Koroteev 1, I.M. Klimantsov 1, O.V. Chaplygin 2, I.V. Chaplygin 2 1 IMGG FEB RAS, Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, Russia 2 IGEM RAS, Moscow, Russia The paper provides preliminary results from the bathymetric studies of Koltsevoye volcanic lake (Onekotan Island, the Northern Kuriles). We describe the main morphological and morphometric parameters and represent a bathymetric scheme. Keywords: volcano, caldera, volcanic lake, morphology. 95
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3 UDC 551.21+551.24 CATASTROPHIC EXPLOSIVE ERUPTION of March 28, 1907 of the Shtyubel Cone (KSUDACH VOLCANIC MASSIF) 100 years of I.V. Melekestsev Institute of Volcanology and Seismology, Far Eastern Branch of the Russian Academy of Sciences, Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky,
The rusty pieces of iron scattered densely across the island of Matua were magnificent. Even more delight was caused by the mysterious structures erected 70 years ago by the cunning Japanese. But, as it turned out, the author’s local history enthusiasm for the found artifacts was shared only by a minority of the Kotojärvi crew. The people demanded virgin nature and pristine purity. Late in the evening at high tide, the catamaran left the beach and stood for several hours in the thick fog of the strait between Matua Islands and Toporkov. By three in the morning the sky cleared. And when the signal light on the top of the mainmast became the fourth star in the handle of the Big Dipper's bucket, the catamaran headed for the Kruzenshtern Strait, separating the Middle and Northern Islands of the Great Kuril Ridge.
The islands of Raikoke, Shiashkotan, Ekarma, Kharimkotan and Onekotan are the peaks of underwater volcanoes. Several at once, like Shiashkotan and Onekotan, or just one, like Raikoke, Kharimkotan and Ekarma. The largest of the five islands is Onekotan - 43 kilometers in length (an area of 425 square kilometers). Now all the islands are uninhabited. But it was not always so. The word "kotan" is of Ainu origin and means "settlement". And indeed, on all three “kotans” even now you can find the remains of abandoned Ainu villages. However, like the ruins of border posts from the times of the USSR.
Shiashkotan was met with regular fog and water of 2.7 degrees. Because of the fog, we did not go to the shore, but instead stood in the roadstead in Voskhodnaya Bay. The anchors held poorly on the sandy bottom, the boat crawled, and already in the darkness they began to rearrange. As a result, the night turned out to be sleepless. West wind, flowing around the island, it blew from everywhere at once, and the catamaran was torn from its anchor several times. During the next reshuffle we almost landed on Otter Reef.
There is a danger in the Kuril Islands - seaweed thickets. These damn “sargassum” are so thick that when a boat hits a field of grass, the rudders break off and the engine stalls. The cabbage stalks are as thick as your hand, and the screw cannot cut them. As a result, the boat completely loses control. All that remains is to remove the rudders, raise the engine and drift with the wind and current. So, at about two in the morning the anchor took the ground, and we managed to sleep, taking turns keeping the anchor watch. The morning greeted us with sunny weather and long-awaited warmth. And just a couple of hundred meters away, the waves crashed against a huge kekur, looking like a petrified frigate with sails caught in the wind.
When crossing from Shiashkotan to Kharimkotan for the first time there was excellent visibility. Six volcanoes could be seen at once. Even Matua, from 70 miles away, was slightly visible through the haze.
Excellent on Harimkotan sand beach. The island itself is incredibly beautiful, both from the sea - with its almost perfect volcano cone, and from land - a fantastic combination of coal-black “towers” of solidified lava with fields of gray-blue ash, over which hundreds of neat flower beds of yellow daylilies and blue bells are scattered . It was as if a huge fantasy picture in 3D format had come to life.
To get from the shore to the volcano, you need to overcome three lines of barriers: strawberry, dwarf alder and cedar. The first line is the most difficult to pass. There are a lot of strawberries on other islands, but there are shamelessly a lot of them on Harimkotan. The berry is large, the size of a Central Russian strawberry, and grows so often that there is more red than green. Because of the strawberries, it is completely impossible to walk around the island, and all good endeavors end in crawling on your knees with a mouth full of berries a couple of meters from the beach.
And yet we were able to overcome the temptation and climbed the Severgin volcano. This took the whole day, so we returned in the dark, guided only by the return track of the navigator. But what an impression! Cross streams where there are fewer stones than the backs of humpback whales going to spawn, look into the gray-breathing mouth of a living volcano, stop at the edge of the vault of heaven ten meters from the palpably dense blanket of clouds, and then in a few minutes descend from the dry, sun-drenched ash desert into the subcloud world of wet foothill meadows... In the northern part of Severgin Bay, in the ruins of an outpost overgrown with crooked alder forests, they discovered a dilapidated wooden pyramid with a homemade tin sign: “To the border guards of the outpost who died while protecting the state border of the USSR on March 29, 1952.” What happened in March 1952, how and why did the border defenders die on Kharimkotan and how many were there? Maybe someone reading these lines now knows?
The Ring Lake on Onekotan Island is a rare miracle. Just to see it was worth launching an expedition to the Kuril Islands. It is located in the southern part of Onekotan at an altitude of 600 meters above sea level. Formed after the caldera of a volcano with a circumference of about 15 kilometers gradually filled fresh water. In the center of the lake rises a new volcanic structure - a regular pyramid 1324 meters high. The caldera cliff and the walls of the pyramid are made of black volcanic rocks with white streaks of snow patches. The water in the lake is azure blue. In clear weather, standing on a cliff, you can see the Pacific Ocean in the east, the Sea of Okhotsk in the west, and the smoking hills of volcanoes from the north and south. There is a legend that the Japanese released some especially rare and tasty trout into the lake, which was served only at the emperor’s table. However, the lake looks so otherworldly and lifeless that it is very difficult to believe in the presence of imperial trout in it.
Getting to the Ring Road turned out to be difficult. Previously, an all-terrain road ran near the volcano, connecting the Onekotan outpost on the east coast with the Shestakov outpost on the western coast. Both outposts have not existed for a long time. Using space photographs, we were able to find traces of an abandoned road and draw them as a track on the navigator. In fact, the road was preserved only in separate fragments, while most of it was overgrown with dwarf alder or was washed away from the hills, forming gaps tens of meters deep.
We went to the lake in two groups. Ilya Lukomsky and Denis Ivanov in the “alpine style” - light, without food and equipment, there and back in 16 hours. They hobbled barely alive with injuries of varying severity. And completely stunned by what they saw.
Sasha Dzebisashvili, Oleg Makarovsky and I went “Himalayan style” - with a tent, sleeping bags, equipment and an intermediate camp, which took two days. We left at 10 am. We climbed to the caldera at 7 pm, adding to the almost unreal beauty of the lake the delight of the sunset. The dream of Oleg Makarovsky, a 74-year-old expedition member who has been dreaming about Koltsev Lake for as long as I have known it, has come true.
It’s better not to think about the descent. In the morning, a hard NW blew, it started to rain, the temperature dropped to 5-6 degrees, the scree turned into rides through the mud on five points of support, and even weighed down by backpacks... Thank God, everyone descended alive and relatively healthy.
In the morning, “Kotoyarvi” had to cross the Fourth Kuril Strait and return to the “population”. Ahead of us lay Paramushir, Shumshu and two hundred kilometers along the Pacific coast of Kamchatka.
Krenitsyn Volcano is an active volcano on the Onekotan Island of the Great Kuril Ridge. A typical two-tier “volcano within a volcano.”
Located in the southern part of Onekotan Island. Height 1324 m (the highest point of the island).
A volcanic cone (with a base diameter of 3.5-4 km) rises in the form of an island inside Lake Koltsevoye lying at an altitude of 400 m (diameter about 7 km). The lake is surrounded by a somma - the walls of the more ancient Tao-Rusyr caldera (heights 540-920 m with a base diameter of 16-17 km).
The volcano is the world's largest "volcano within a volcano".
The volcano is one of the hundred wonders of Russia!
Now, if you read this, would you remain indifferent? I think no. And a distance of 15 kilometers would not stop.
In principle, our entire trip this year, due to its absurdity, can qualify for the Book of Records.
Why? I'll tell you now. At the same time, I’ll lift the curtain on who, why and how this year ended up on board the Athena to travel the entire Great Kuril Ridge.
I was ordered to organize a fishing tour. Yeah. To me. Rybolovny. Weak objections to the fact that my entire fishing experience is limited to participating in a graduation party in kindergarten in a production based on the song “In the morning an amateur fisherman sits on the lake” (and, yes, I had a supporting role, that is, even there I got a fishing rod they didn’t give) that I was actually organizing ascents - all this was swept aside outright.
Because now, even outside our country, people know that the main organizer of hikes in the Kuril Islands is me.
Here. And even better, don’t ask how it happened. It's unexplainable.
People wanted fishing in the Kuril Islands. Fine. After all, you don’t have to be a fisherman yourself to organize all this. You need to be able to gather the right people in the right place. And I can do this.
My team has chosen what we need.
Kolya is a merry fellow and a joker, but a terrible slob. Part-time escort from the company where the ship is rented.
Igor Anatolyevich is a man of encyclopedic knowledge on the history of the Kuril Islands, a historian, a keeper of time, etc., etc... At the same time, he is the only one of us who knows a lot about fishing. But like all enthusiastic people, at any moment he could forget about everything in favor of fishing or in favor of crawling through ancient trenches to study them.
Captain Zhenya. Who, during a discussion, always poured himself some coffee, pulled away and said: “I’m a taxi driver, wherever you say, I’ll take you there.” And when I said where to take him, he grabbed his head and started running across the bridge shouting, “Yes, what is this! She doesn’t understand! She doesn’t understand anything!!!”
And then he drove me where I said, and then I stopped understanding why I didn’t understand this.
But overall, if this quartet was conducted correctly, they could work wonders.
And miracles had to be performed almost daily.
For we had 17 passengers on board. Some of them positioned themselves as fishing experts.
But when questions started pouring in about what equipment to take, and when they arrived at the PPK with a bunch of brand new, unpacked fishing equipment, I realized that not everything was so simple.
Most did not even understand where they were going and what awaited them.
Does each cabin have a shower and toilet? - I was stuck on this question, asked before boarding the ship.
Here are a couple of examples so that you understand the real scale of the disaster called “my tourists”.
One tourist’s friends told him that everyone was going hunting, the captain would have guns, and he needed to get a license for an ATV. That is, you can imagine my surprise when he came up to me and asked what kind of guns the captain had. And yes, he also received a license for an ATV.
Another one only found out when he arrived at the airport that we would go by ship. His only experience of walking on the sea was remembered by a terrible attack of seasickness. Since then, he tried to stay away from the sea and ships. And here is such a surprise from a friend.
And most importantly. None of them were fans of walking. Home - car - office - car. Here is a typical walking route. Walking a couple of kilometers is a feat.
And then I’m like: today we’ll go to the volcano, back and forth - 30 kilometers...
But the eighth wonder of the world was promised, and they went.
The only advantage from the complete lack of experience in walking was that people didn’t understand what it was like to walk thirty kilometers. That is, last year, experienced tourists, accustomed to counting the length of a route literally down to a step, upon learning about the distance, slightly hysterically complained to me that I was setting unrealistic goals.
And here for people, it’s five kilometers, it’s thirty-five...
And there were wet shoes, worn out feet. And above all this there is fog. Almost impenetrable.
I walked and told how beautiful it could be here on the side. You can even see the ocean.
Involuntarily, all the way I compared our last year’s hike and this year.
The weather in the Northern Kuril Islands is not sweet at all. But this year the weather was not pleasant at all. Spring was very late, so summer did not have time to arrive there at all.
Last year, on the way to Krenitsyn, we picked mushrooms and ate berries. This same year there was still snow on the slopes in places. The berries were just beginning to bloom. But there were no mushrooms at all.
No. Of course, last year the weather wasn’t great either. And it seemed to us, not very good. There was fog, and even very close to the exit to the edge of the caldera we managed to almost get lost in the fog. But to understand what bad weather is, you had to go that route this year.
We passed it.
We reached the edge of the caldera. And there is an impenetrable fog...
For some time I very optimistically tried to convince that if we wait a little, wave our hands, blow, spit, then it will all dissipate and we will see a miracle.
| Ring | |
| / / 49.33472; 154.73444(G) (I)Coordinates: 49°20′05″ n. w. 154°44′04″ E. d. / 49.33472° N. w. 154.73444° E. d. / 49.33472; 154.73444(G) (I) | |
| A country | Russia, Russia |
| Region | Sakhalin region |
| Square | 26 km² |
| Greatest depth | 369 m |
| Catchment area | 45 km² |
The area of the lake is 26 km². The drainage area is 45.2 km².
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An excerpt characterizing Koltsevoe (lake, Onekotan)
Drum yes yes dam, dam, dam, the drums crackled. And Pierre realized that the mysterious force had already completely taken possession of these people and that now it was useless to say anything else.The captured officers were separated from the soldiers and ordered to go ahead. There were about thirty officers, including Pierre, and about three hundred soldiers.
The captured officers, released from other booths, were all strangers, were much better dressed than Pierre, and looked at him, in his shoes, with distrust and aloofness. Not far from Pierre walked, apparently enjoying the general respect of his fellow prisoners, a fat major in a Kazan robe, belted with a towel, with a plump, yellow, angry face. He held one hand with a pouch behind his bosom, the other leaned on his chibouk. The major, puffing and puffing, grumbled and was angry at everyone because it seemed to him that he was being pushed and that everyone was in a hurry when there was nowhere to hurry, everyone was surprised at something when there was nothing surprising in anything. Another, a small, thin officer, spoke to everyone, making assumptions about where they were being led now and how far they would have time to travel that day. An official, in felt boots and a commissariat uniform, ran from different sides and looked out for the burned-out Moscow, loudly reporting his observations about what had burned and what this or that visible part of Moscow was like. The third officer, of Polish origin by accent, argued with the commissariat official, proving to him that he was mistaken in defining the districts of Moscow.
Far East of Russia. Kurile Islands. These 56 islands are part of the Sakhalin region of Russia. Sakhalin is the place where I was born, so everything there interests me.
There is an island called Onekotan in the north of the Kuril ridge.
There is a volcanic caldera on it, that is, a crater with collapsed, almost vertical internal walls. In the caldera there is an almost round lake called Koltsev. A cone sticks out of the lake extinct volcano. The volcano is named after Pyotr Krenitsyn (1728 - 1770) - captain of the 1st rank, fearless explorer of Kamchatka and the Aleutian Islands.
Until 2005, the island was closed, there was only a border post on it. Therefore, without any exaggeration, only a few dozen people were able to see this “wonder of the world”. But only a few people have visited the volcano itself. Therefore, the Krenitsyn volcano, standing in the middle of a water-filled caldera, has become the “peak of inaccessibility.”
Only in 2007, the first International Comprehensive Kuril Expedition landed on Onekotan, which included tsunami specialists, geologists, volcanologists, botanists - more than two dozen scientists from Russia, Japan and the USA.
Rising from the ocean shore, the expedition members found themselves on the edge of a giant caldera bowl. Its diameter is more than seven kilometers, the height of the caldera edge above the lake level is about 500 m. How deep the walls go under water was to be determined. But to do this, it was necessary to somehow go down to the lake, find a site somewhere, inflate a rubber boat and install equipment on it...
The lake turned out to be unusually deep! The echo sounder already near the shore began to show depths of about 100 m, then 150 m... The next day, a record depression with a depth of 264 m was recorded. Thus, the Ring Lake became the deepest among the inland reservoirs of Sakhalin and the Kuril Islands.
Then the researchers found a place to land on the cone of the Krenitsyn volcano. We climbed up. They measured the exact height - 1325 m above sea level.
It would seem that's all.
But no!
Eight years later, an expedition of volcanologists landed on the island of Onekotan. They created a data bank of territories subject to seismic activity and volcanic activity. What were the unique devices created specifically for this project used for? With their help, a detailed echo sounding survey of the Ring Lake was carried out and accurate data on the depth and topography of the bottom was obtained.
So, it turned out that the maximum depth of the Ring is 369 meters!
After which the lake became the deepest not only in the Sakhalin region, but in the entire Far Eastern region. It is now the fourth deepest in Russia - after Lake Baikal (1637 m), the Caspian Sea (1025 m) and Lake Khantai in the Krasnoyarsk Territory (420 m).
