In this part of our journey through Eastern Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan we will talk about the Grigorievsky Gorge or Chon-Ak-Suu. It received its first name from the village located at the entrance to the gorge, the second - from the river flowing through it.
The gorge is separated from the highway along the northern shore of Issyk-Kul and the village of Grigoryevka by only a few kilometers of dirt road.
In Kyrgyzstan // volos-t.livejournal.com
In the Kungei-Alatau mountains, Kyrgyzstan // volos-t.livejournal.com
It is located in the Kungei-Alatau mountains, which are part of the Northern Tien Shan mountain system and serve as a natural border between Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan.
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Grigorievskoe Gorge, Kyrgyzstan // volos-t.livejournal.com
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Here, at the foot of the Tien Shan fir trees, the Chon-Ak-Suu river carries its fast waters into Issyk-Kul. Its name is translated into Russian as “Big White Water”.
Chon-Ak-Suu River, Kyrgyzstan // volos-t.livejournal.com
To say that the Grigorievskoye Gorge is popular among tourists means to say nothing. This is one of the most famous gorges in the Issyk-Kul region. It appears in the vast majority of reports. I remember the Baikal analogue - the Shamanka rock on Olkhon.
Tourists come here from recreation centers in northern Issyk-Kul on paid tours or get there on their own in their cars, hitchhikers or taxis. During the peak season there is a real "passage yard" here.
We were lucky to visit here out of season. Three cars with tourists, several uninstalled yurts with souvenirs and kumiss, and children jumping with golden eagles under the wheels of a car - everything that was encountered on the way to the highlands.
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Therefore, no one stopped us from admiring the beauty of the mountains.
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After 10 km of travel along a narrow gorge, the mountains parted, and at an altitude of 2200 meters the expanses of alpine meadows opened up.
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This is the territory of summer high mountain pastures (At-Jailoo). There are fewer tourists here, but there are plenty of yurts for shepherds and livestock.
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We have never seen so many foals before.
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✪ Song about Issyk-Kul. Grigorievsky grandmothers are our answer to Buranovsky ones.
✪ Ananyevo 12/29/2015
✪ Mineral spring "Tash Suu", 2013. www.issykkul.biz
Subtitles
Geography
The village of Grigoryevka is located on the northern shore of Lake Issyk-Kul, at the foot of the Tien Shan Mountains.
Population
Infrastructure
The main activity of the local population is livestock farming, agriculture and homesteading, as well as the tourism services sector. More than 20 thousand people visit the Grigorievskoye Gorge every year. However, the culture of environmental management of visitors is at a low level. Abandoned garbage, unorganized fires, damaged trees, improper collection of mushrooms and medicinal herbs, barbaric fishing of fry, cause irreparable harm to the environment, and many others. I would like to note the fact that the local population, interested in seasonal income, due to low environmental culture, perhaps not realizing the negative consequences, also causes enormous harm to the environment. This includes cutting down green spaces, shrubs, burning garbage, polluting the irrigation network with household waste, etc.
GIOLThe administrative center of the village district is Sadyr Ake. .
Geography
Grigoryevka is located on the northern shore of Lake Issyk-Kul, at the foot of Kungoy-Ala-Too, one of the ridges of the Northern Tien Shan.
The distance from Grigoryevka to the regional center of the city of Cholpon-Ata is 34 km, to the regional center - Karakol - 109 km, to the capital of the republic - Bishkek - 295 km.
Video on the topic
Story
Population
Infrastructure
The main activity of the local population is livestock farming, agriculture and homesteading, as well as the tourism services sector.
More than 20 thousand people visit the Grigorievskoye Gorge every year. It must be said that the culture of environmental management of visitors is at a low level. Abandoned garbage, unorganized fires, damaged trees, improper collection of mushrooms and medicinal herbs, barbaric fishing of fish fry, cause irreparable harm to the environment, and much more. etc. I would like to note the fact that the local population, interested in seasonal income, due to low environmental culture, perhaps not realizing the negative consequences, also causes enormous harm to the environment. This includes cutting down green spaces, shrubs, burning garbage, polluting the irrigation network with household waste, etc.
Geography
The village of Grigoryevka is located on the northern shore of Lake Issyk-Kul, at the foot of the Tien Shan Mountains.
Population
Infrastructure
The main activity of the local population is livestock farming, agriculture and homesteading, as well as the tourism services sector. More than 20 thousand people visit the Grigorievskoye Gorge every year. However, the culture of environmental management of visitors is at a low level. Abandoned garbage, unorganized fires, damaged trees, improper collection of mushrooms and medicinal herbs, barbaric fishing of fry, cause irreparable harm to the environment, and many others. I would like to note the fact that the local population, interested in seasonal income, due to low environmental culture, perhaps not realizing the negative consequences, also causes enormous harm to the environment. This includes cutting down green spaces, shrubs, burning garbage, polluting the irrigation network with household waste, etc.
Story
In 1910, peasant migrants from the central provinces of the Russian Empire (Kursk, Voronezh, etc.), who arrived to settle in the Chon-Aksuu valley of the Semirechensk region, in order to obtain permission to allocate land for the construction of a residential village in this area, decided to send to St. Petersburg of his confidant - Grigory Nikolaevich Lytikov. But the first trip, for an unknown reason, was unsuccessful; permission to build a village in the valley was not obtained. In 1912, he was sent again with a request: as a result, the messenger brought good news: “The construction of the village has been allowed.” Thus, in memory of a wonderful person, a public leader, the village began to be named after Grigory Lytikov - GRIGORIEVKA.
The village began to be built up from Kuibysheva Street, originally called “Kuturzhinskaya”, the first settlers of which were families who moved from Kuturga, a village located in the nearby Tyupsky district. Then Voronezhskaya, Bazarnaya, Kabatskaya, Kosyachnaya streets appeared (all these streets were renamed over the years). Gradually the village grew. But in August 1916, in connection with the tsar’s decree on the mobilization of the indigenous population for rear work (the First World War was in progress), a national uprising broke out in Kyrgyzstan, called the “Kyrgyz revolt.” It also affected our village: the village was almost completely burned by the rebel Kyrgyz. After the fire that happened during the “Krigiz riot,” Grigorievka began to be rebuilt.
In the summer of 1918, as elsewhere, the establishment of Soviet power began in the Issyk-Kul region on the territory of Przhevalsky district. In the 1920s, before the formation of the first artels in the village, many peasants already had wealth, grew bread, fished, and raised their farms. With the beginning of collectivization and the creation of collective farms, dispossession began, and many families suffered from repression. Then - the trials of years of hardships and difficulties during the Great Patriotic War of 1941-45, but the multinational rural community lived together: Russians, Kyrgyz, Balkars, Uighurs, Kazakhs, Belarusians, Ukrainians - the whole village achieved victories in peaceful labor. The distinguished villagers were awarded state awards, awarded the Order of the Red Banner of Labor, the Badge of Honor, and various commemorative medals.
Grigorievskoye Gorge
Grigorievskoe Gorge (Kyrgyz name Chon Ak-Suu) is located on the northern shore of Lake Issyk-Kul, 60 kilometers from the city of Cholpon-Ata and 110 km from the city of Balykchy. The Chon-Ak-Suu valley descends from the Kungey Ala-Too ridge near the village of Grigoryevka.
The Grigorievskoye Gorge is considered one of the most famous attractions of Issyk-Kul. The sweet smell of pine trees, green mountain slopes, the sound of a mountain river, and alpine lakes lure tourists vacationing in Issyk-Kul. The most beautiful Tien Shan spruces grow in this gorge.
Here you can also walk or ride a horse, enjoying the surrounding nature; see semi-wild yaks, demonstrations of handicraft and horsemanship, listen to folk music, drink kumiss and even take part in setting up a yurt in a real Kyrgyz atmosphere. Also in the gorge you can hunt with a golden eagle .
The mountain slopes of the Grigorievsky Gorge are covered with red mountain poppy, which spreads like a carpet across the valley. The length of the valley is 35 kilometers. Turbulent glacial water of crystal purity rushes along the bottom of the gorge. The middle part of the valley is crowned by two snowy peaks: Kum-Bel peak (4200 m) and Eshenbulak peak (4647 m).
The gorge has three beautiful alpine lakes. In the first part of the gorge there is the Lower Lake, higher in the area of the At-Jailoo pastures (which means summer pastures) there is the Middle Lake, and approximately 6 km from it there is the most beautiful of the three lakes - the Upper. Beyond this lake, at an altitude of about 3500 m, the forests give way to beautiful alpine meadows. Thanks to the gentle slope of the gorge, all landscape belts are clearly defined and have a greater extent than in other valleys of Kungei Ala-Too.
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Excerpt characterizing Grigoryevka (Issyk-Kul region)
- What a beast!.. Well?..“I went after someone else,” Tikhon continued, “I crawled into the forest in this manner, and lay down.” – Tikhon suddenly and flexibly lay down on his belly, imagining in their faces how he did it. “One and catch up,” he continued. “I’ll rob him in this manner.” – Tikhon quickly and easily jumped up. “Let’s go, I say, to the colonel.” How loud he will be. And there are four of them here. They rushed at me with skewers. “I hit them with an ax in this manner: why are you, Christ is with you,” Tikhon cried, waving his arms and frowning menacingly, sticking out his chest.
“We saw from the mountain how you asked a line through the puddles,” said the esaul, narrowing his shining eyes.
Petya really wanted to laugh, but he saw that everyone was holding back from laughing. He quickly moved his eyes from Tikhon’s face to the faces of the esaul and Denisov, not understanding what it all meant.
“Don’t even imagine it,” Denisov said, coughing angrily. “Why didn’t he do it?”
Tikhon began to scratch his back with one hand, his head with the other, and suddenly his whole face stretched into a shining, stupid smile, revealing a missing tooth (for which he was nicknamed Shcherbaty). Denisov smiled, and Petya burst into cheerful laughter, which Tikhon himself joined in.
“Yes, it’s completely wrong,” said Tikhon. “The clothes he’s wearing are bad, so where should we take him?” Yes, and a rude man, your honor. Why, he says, I myself am the son of Anaral, I won’t go, he says.
- What a brute! - Denisov said. - I need to ask...
“Yes, I asked him,” said Tikhon. - He says: I don’t know him well. There are many of ours, he says, but all of them are bad; only, he says, one name. “If you’re fine,” he says, “you’ll take everyone,” Tikhon concluded, looking cheerfully and decisively into Denisov’s eyes.
“Here, I’ll pour in a hundred gogs, and you’ll do the same,” Denisov said sternly.
“Why be angry,” said Tikhon, “well, I haven’t seen your French?” Just let it get dark, I’ll bring whatever you want, at least three.
“Well, let’s go,” Denisov said, and he rode all the way to the guardhouse, frowning angrily and silently.
Tikhon came from behind, and Petya heard the Cossacks laughing with him and at him about some boots that he had thrown into a bush.
When the laughter that had taken over him at Tikhon’s words and smile passed, and Petya realized for a moment that this Tikhon had killed a man, he felt embarrassed. He looked back at the captive drummer, and something pierced his heart. But this awkwardness lasted only for a moment. He felt the need to raise his head higher, cheer up and ask the esaul with a significant look about tomorrow's enterprise, so as not to be unworthy of the society in which he was.
The sent officer met Denisov on the road with the news that Dolokhov himself would arrive now and that everything was fine on his part.
Denisov suddenly became cheerful and called Petya over to him.
“Well, tell me about yourself,” he said.
When Petya left Moscow, leaving his relatives, he joined his regiment and soon after that he was taken as an orderly to the general who commanded a large detachment. From the time of his promotion to officer, and especially from his entry into the active army, where he participated in the Battle of Vyazemsky, Petya was in a constantly happily excited state of joy at the fact that he was great, and in a constantly enthusiastic haste not to miss any case of real heroism . He was very happy with what he saw and experienced in the army, but at the same time it seemed to him that where he was not, that was where the most real, heroic things were now happening. And he was in a hurry to get to where he was not.
When on October 21 his general expressed a desire to send someone to Denisov’s detachment, Petya asked so pitifully to send him that the general could not refuse. But, sending him, the general, remembering Petya’s crazy act in the battle of Vyazemsky, where Petya, instead of going along the road to where he was sent, galloped in a chain under the fire of the French and shot there twice from his pistol - sending him, the general namely, he forbade Petya to participate in any of Denisov’s actions. This made Petya blush and became confused when Denisov asked if he could stay. Before leaving for the edge of the forest, Petya believed that he needed to strictly fulfill his duty and return immediately. But when he saw the French, saw Tikhon, learned that they would certainly attack that night, he, with the speed of transitions of young people from one glance to another, decided with himself that his general, whom he had hitherto greatly respected, was rubbish, the German that Denisov is a hero, and Esaul is a hero, and that Tikhon is a hero, and that he would be ashamed to leave them in difficult times.
It was already getting dark when Denisov, Petya and the esaul drove up to the guardhouse. In the semi-darkness one could see horses in saddles, Cossacks, hussars setting up huts in the clearing and (so that the French would not see the smoke) building a reddening fire in a forest ravine. In the entryway of a small hut, a Cossack, rolling up his sleeves, was chopping lamb. In the hut itself there were three officers from Denisov’s party, who had set up a table out of the door. Petya took off his wet dress, letting it dry, and immediately began helping the officers set up the dinner table.
Ten minutes later the table was ready, covered with a napkin. On the table there was vodka, rum in a flask, white bread and fried lamb with salt.
Sitting with the officers at the table and tearing the fatty, fragrant lamb with his hands, through which lard flowed, Petya was in an enthusiastic childish state of tender love for all people and, as a result, confidence in the same love of other people for himself.
“So what do you think, Vasily Fedorovich,” he turned to Denisov, “is it okay that I stay with you for a day?” - And, without waiting for an answer, he answered himself: - After all, I was ordered to find out, well, I’ll find out... Only you will let me into the very... main one. I don’t need awards... But I want... - Petya clenched his teeth and looked around, jerking his head up and waving his hand.
“To the most important thing...” Denisov repeated, smiling.
“Just please, give me a complete command, so that I can command,” continued Petya, “what do you need?” Oh, would you like a knife? - he turned to the officer who wanted to cut off the lamb. And he handed over his penknife.
The officer praised the knife.
- Please take it for yourself. I have a lot of these...” Petya said, blushing. - Fathers! “I completely forgot,” he suddenly cried out. “I have wonderful raisins, you know, the kind without seeds.” We have a new sutler - and such wonderful things. I bought ten pounds. I'm used to something sweet. Do you want?.. - And Petya ran into the hallway to his Cossack and brought bags containing five pounds of raisins. - Eat, gentlemen, eat.
Kyrgyzstan is a country of high mountains, fast rivers and clear lakes. Most of the territory is occupied by the Pamir-Alai and Tien Shan mountain ranges, between which the most beautiful green valleys are hidden.
One of the most picturesque places in Issyk-Kul is the Grigorievskoye Gorge.
Photos by Dmitry Chistoprudov
From Bishkek we reached the coast of Issyk-Kul and almost immediately went to the water. Issyk-Kul - the largest lake in Kyrgyzstan, it is one of the 25 largest lakes in the world by area and is in 7th place in the list of the deepest lakes. The Kyrgyz people call it the “pearl” of Kyrgyzstan.
Near the town of Cholpon-Ata there are a huge number of stones scattered on which you can find ancient drawings - petroglyphs. True, I didn’t find anything beautiful. (Clickable, 1920×1200 px):
Grigorievskoye Gorge. There is a country road running through the Chon Ak-Suu valley, which in some places can only be driven by an SUV. It is especially difficult at the intersection of the road with a crystal clear mountain river:
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Walking through a high-mountain valley, we wandered into At-Jailoo (which means summer pastures) to visit shepherds - sheep shepherds:
The shepherds are doing well. Grandfather, grandchildren and grandmother:
That's how they live. (Clickable, 1920×1200 px):
Pasture:
Nature has preserved its pristine nature here, and neither time nor man has power over it. The middle part of the gorges is wooded and captivates with the most beautiful Tien Shan firs:
The length of the gorge is about 35 kilometers, and along its entire length there are numerous walking and horse riding routes along picturesque slopes and steep mountain paths. (Clickable, 1920×1200 px):
Panorama of the Grigorievsky Gorge in Issyk-Kul, Kyrgyzstan. (Clickable, 3000×868 px):
Mountain waterfall from glaciers:
An amazingly beautiful place.
A small lake at an altitude of 3,000 meters. (Clickable, 1920×1200 px):
At the intermediate peak. Panorama. (Clickable, 3000×686 px):
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As the altitude increases, the forests transform into beautiful alpine meadows:
The Grigorievskoe Gorge stretches down from the Kungey Ala-Too ridge and runs from the north almost parallel to the coastline of Lake Issyk-Kul.
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On the shore of Lake Issyk-Kul. The words “ysyk kel” translated from the Kyrgyz language mean “hot lake”, since the lake does not freeze in winter. (Clickable, 1920×1200 px):
