Hello!

I invite you to take part in the journey
to the highlands of India, one of the most powerful
and magical places on the planet - the Himalayas.
We will visit a hard-to-reach, unique, mysterious
and the beautiful province of Ladakh, which is often
called "Indian Tibet"...

The trip will take place in the first half of August
and will last about 2 weeks.
Approximate dates: August 2-3 departure from Moscow, August 14-15 return.
A group of 9 people is being recruited.There are 3 places.

Attention! The deadline for submitting passports and prepayment is July 19!

It would be more correct to call this trip an expedition. We will visit places where land communication is possible only in the summer months, and even then not always. True, we will fly there by plane :-) (Moscow-Delhi-Leh-Delhi-Moscow).

Ladakh is a stunningly beautiful, powerful and mystical place! So to speak, it moves the roof, and quite strongly... Everyone who has been there says different things, but always agrees on one thing: it is impossible to find worthy words to describe their impressions. Many gods of the Indian pantheon descended to Earth, according to legend, here.

I have been to India 7 times. I have spent 2 to 6 months there almost every winter since 2000. And, having visited many corners of this amazing country, with every trip I am convinced that India is inexhaustible in its diversity. Now I am collecting detailed information about Ladakh, about hotels, valleys, attractions, obtaining permits to visit certain areas, dates of Buddhist festivals, trekking routes, acclimatization and ways to deal with it, etc. I communicate with those who have already been there, find out the details of preparations for the trip, and develop the optimal route.

The cost of participation in the group for 1 person is 12,500 rubles.
For double applications and prepayment before July 11th - discounts!


By participating in the group you receive the following:

- a detailed route, optimal for the given time of visit to Lakakh
- comprehensive advice on preparing for the trip,
- full information support and consultations during the trip
- translation from Indo-English to Russian and back :-)
- organizing jeep excursions to lakes, surrounding valleys, monasteries, Buddhist festivals, etc.
- organization of rafting (descent on inflatable boats along rivers) (at the request of the group)
- organization of accommodation in hotels in the city of Lech and in neighboring valleys.
- organization of group purchase of visas, tickets for international and domestic flights
(with possible group discounts!)
- other advantages of traveling with a small group and a permanent guide, rather than alone!
- and what is also important: you will be insured against deception by cunning Indians working in the tourism sector; I have a lot of experience communicating with them, but even now, when dealing with Indians from the service sector, I have to constantly keep my eyes open :-)

ALL other travel expenses - at COST and will be optimized as much as possible.

Other expenses, besides the fee for participation in the group, are:

1. Visa - about 2000 rubles.
2. Insurance - depends on the insurance company, but approximately 1 euro per day.
3. Flight Moscow-Delhi-Moscow - about 19,000-20,000 rubles
4. Flight Delhi-Leh-Delhi - about 10,000 rubles.
5. On-site expenses: excursions, transport (jeep rental), accommodation, food for 12 days - about 15-17 thousand rubles per person.
6. Other expenses - optional (gifts, souvenirs, shopping, etc.)

Join us! It will be interesting:-)
Such trips are never forgotten.

Decide and submit prepayment (visa, tickets, fee) and foreign visa. Passports are needed no later than July 19!

You can get to know Ladakh a little in absentia here:
http://india-summer.livejournal.com/27144.html#cutid1

And be sure to look at these photo reports!!!
http://seepla.net/users/dubrovskaya_/posts/407-nubra-valley-ladakh
http://seepla.net/users/dubrovskaya_/posts/414-pangong-lake-ladakh
Attention!

For those who had (or have) heart problems, intolerance to high altitude conditions, diseases such as asthma and other problems with the respiratory system, I recommend that they refrain from participating in this trip.

Sincerely,
Nikolay Voronkov

Please send your applications for participation here: [email protected]


INFORMATION ABOUT LADAK
(taken from the site poedem.ru)
Sights of Ladakh
Covered by the Karakoram Mountains to the northeast and the great Himalayan range to the south, and divided into two by the Indus River, Ladakh is one of the pristine and most unexplored places on earth. It is located at an altitude of 3000-5000 meters above sea level, bordering the state of Kashmir in the west, Sinkiyan in the north and Tibet in the east. Historically, the name Ladakh comes from the word “la-dwags” or the Land of the High Roads. These treacherous routes carried caravans laden with luxurious and expensive goods, including jade, carpets, fine stones, tea, musk and other goods, from China east to Kashmir, Afghanistan, Central Asia and one of the greatest trade networks in history. . Leh, which is now the main city of Ladakh, was a small offshoot of the Silk Road and served as a transit point for caravans. But it was not only material wealth that the caravans transported through this region; monks, pilgrims and artisans traveled along with them, as well as sacred texts, relics, and the spread of religious movements, laying the foundation for a rich cultural heritage. The land here was settled through successful migrations of communities such as the Dards (Indo-Iranians), Tibetans, and possibly other races and tribes. In the early years of Christianity, the region was part of the larger Kushan Empire, which controlled northern India and central Asia. Around this time, the teachings of Buddhism came here. In ancient times, Ladakh was closely connected with Tibet and these connections, in one form or another, remained throughout the history of the region. During the reign of the Tibetan king Sron-tsan-gam-po in the 7th century, Tibetans were sent to India to study various religions, after which monks and theologians were invited from various monasteries such as Nalanda and Odantapuri to Tibet to tell about your religion. Buddhism has gained a strong position in the region. The most famous of the first wave of monks to arrive in Tibet was Padmasambhava, who made major contributions to the development of Buddhism in Tibet. The success of this first phase was reversed by King Lang-dar-ma in the 9th century, who abandoned Buddhism in favor of the ancient Bon religion. After his assassination, the Tibetan Empire was in turmoil, and one of his descendants, Nyama-Gon, moved west and founded the Gug kingdom in western Tibet. After his death, the kingdom was divided among his three sons into Ladakh, Purang Gug and Zanskar-Spiti. The First Dynasty of Ladakh ruled the region from its capital at Shey, and the empire included the upper regions of the Indus River Valley. In the kingdom of Gug (Western Ladakh), there was a revival of Buddhism under the patronage of Nyama-Gon's grandson, the monk of King Yeshe Yo, who saw a constant movement of monks and spiritual teachers across inhospitable lands to Buddhist centers in India and partly in Kashimir and in the east to Nalanda and Vikramsila in search of religious texts and teachings. The earliest of the monasteries in Ladakh dates back to the 11th century, and its appearance is directly associated with the religious leader of that time, the Great Interpreter Rinchen Zangpo, who according to legend laid the foundations of 108 monasteries during his life. The monasteries of the early period are characterized by their location, mainly on the plains - as well as by the form of construction. The selection of materials for construction took into account two factors: ease of use and climatic conditions of the region (cement bricks and lime mortar, stone foundations, logs and cement roofs were used). It is in the decorations of this temple that everyone can see noticeable differences. It is known that upon his return from Kashmir, Rinchen Zangpo brought with him a group of skilled artists and artisans, one of whom, Bidhaka, was supposed to make the correct iconographic representation of the Buddhist pantheon. The strong influence of Kashmir is also felt in the wall paintings and carvings above the entrance to the temple at Alchi and other monasteries of this period. The early monasteries of Ladakh are Alchi, Mangyu, Lamayuru, Wanla, Sumba; there are also the ruins of the ancient monasteries of Nyarma and Basgo. By the 15th century, Ladakh was divided again between two rulers Gragspa Bum Ide and his brother Gragspa Bum, the former's capital was at Leh and the latter made Thingmosgang his capital. The two kingdoms of Upper and Lower Ladakh were later united by Grangspa Bum's grandson Bhagan, the founder of the Namgyal (victor) dynasty. From this time on, a series of invasions into Ladakh began from neighboring Kashmir, Central Asia and Baltistan. The greatest ruler of Ladakh was Sengge Namgyal, the son of Jamyang Namgyal and his Balti wife Gyal Khatun. He also married the Balti princess Skalzang, who was said to be the incarnation of the goddess Tara. Sengge Namgyal expanded his kingdom through successful conquests into the neighboring kingdoms of Gug and Purig. Wars against his former enemy, the ruler of Skardo (Baltistan), now under the control of the Mugal Empire, forced him into direct conflict with the great Mugals, which was the first of several centuries of confrontations with that empire. To strengthen the religion, Sengge Namgyal invited the great monk Stag-strang Ras-pa to Ladakh and together, monk and king, laid the foundation of one of the largest monasteries in the region, known as Hemis. Under the leadership of his successor, Deldan Namgyal, the kingdom expanded to the borders of present Ladakh, including Nubra and Dras, the kingdom of Gug, Purang, Ruthog, Spiti, as well as Upper Kinnaur, Upper Lahaul, Zanskar, Purig and the lower Shyek valley. Governing such a large and geographically complex territory was no easy task, and the empire soon began to come apart at the seams. The invasion of Mongol-Tibetan troops during the reign of Delegs Namgyal, who were able to reach Basgo, the then capital, and the subsequent siege of this citadel lasted three years. After appealing to the ruler of Kashmir for help, fierce fighting began near Basgo and the invading army was eventually defeated. The assistance provided to the rulers of Ladakh was too expensive. A tripartite agreement was signed at Thingmosgang, which defined the borders of Ladakh in Tibet, borders that still exist today. A trade pact was also signed under which Ladak could send caravans to Lhasa - Lochak - every year, also including tribute of gold, saffron and fabrics for the Dalai Lama. Similar caravans from Lhasa to Leh - Cha-pa - delivered tea to Leh. Exchange between regions continued until the 19th century. Another important element of the agreement was the monopoly on the wool of Pashmina goats; Ladakh was to provide privileges to the merchants of Kashmir. This magnificent wool contributed to the development of an entire industry for the production of scarves and shawls. The situation in the kingdom again became unstable, leading to a crushing blow in 1834 by troops from Jammu under the leadership of the commander Zorawar Singh, in his mission to conquer Tibet. But after his death at the Battle of Purang, the goal was never achieved. In 1842, Ladakh was annexed to the state of Jammu by the Treaty of Leh and the royal family moved to their present residence in Stok. By the 19th century, a strong interest in Ladakh arose in Europe, since it was located at the crossroads of trade routes and connected the region with China, Central Asia, and then with Russia. The constant threat of increased Russian interests in India led to an increase in activity in mapping the region, and the British began to appear here more and more often. The first Moravian mission was founded in the 19th century, and brought with it new winds of change. After the accession treaty was signed by the ruler of Jammu and Kashmir in 1948, Ladakh became an integral part of the new Republic of India. During India's independence in 1947, there was intense fighting between Indian and Pakistani forces. Currently, Ladakh's location makes it a critical strategic location for India.

Geography of Ladakh

The geography of Ladakh, or Little Tibet, is very unusual. Three million years ago, all of Tibet was the bottom of the huge Tesis Sea, but as a result of the displacement of continental masses, a vast Central Asian plateau was formed, on which Tibet still rises, stretching over a vast territory of 3000 km along the borders of India, Nepal and China. Ladakh is a small part of Tibet, located in the extreme northwest of India, at an altitude of 3000-6000 meters above sea level, sandwiched by the Karakoram mountains in the northeast and the Himalayan range in the south, bordering China (in the northeast), Pakistan (in the northwest) and the state of Jamma and Kashmir (in the west). The geography of Ladakh boasts of its rivers; it is here that the Sutlej, Brahmaputra, Zanskar rivers originate, as well as the magnificent Indus, which divides Ladakh into two parts. But he cannot be proud of the diversity of vegetation, because not many types of flora are able to survive in such harsh highland conditions. In lowland regions, on grassy plains and in forests where poplars, willows, and rose hips grow, you can find marmots, wild yaks, monkeys, red pandas, deer, gazelles and black-necked cranes, which do not claim the high-mountain habitat of ibex, brown bears, snow leopards and snow geese, and of course the famous Himalayan goats, from whose downs incomparable cashmere is made. In the mountains you can find plants extremely similar to edelweiss, Rhodiola rosea and wild strawberries. Specific local species are found mainly among the sparse thorny vegetation of high mountain deserts. In general, pictures of the geography of Ladakh represent stone decorations, in many places unnaturally protruding vertically, forming a kind of Iroquois. One can only admire the true Tibetans, who do not notice all the hardships of life, largely due to their religious concept. They are so organically connected with nature that they are able to survive even in the year-round arctic cold at an altitude of 6000 m, although this is the prerogative of the strong in spirit - the main, but no less heroic, part of the population of Ladakh lives at an altitude of 3500 - 4000 m. However, the geography of Ladakh is capable present travelers with many surprises, one of which is the unusual desert dunes of the Nubra Valley, surrounded by snow-capped peaks, among which wild camels make their way. The landscape of the unusual high-mountain desert, located at an altitude of 3500m, gives way to the picturesque view of the lakes of Ladakh, the largest of which are lake. Morari and Lake Pangong, the latter is located near the Chinese border, and most of it belongs to the Celestial Empire; located at an altitude of 4200 m, it amazes tourists with its gigantic size. Justifying its name “Land of High Roads” - Ladakh is a continuous pass, developed in ancient times, when a “stage” of the Great Silk Road passed along its steep paths, one of the transit points of which was the city of Leh - the current capital of Ladakh.

Ladakh lakes

Pangong Lake is the most beautiful and largest lake in Ladakh. Located between multi-colored mountain ranges at an altitude of 4350m, the high-mountain lake. Pangong has truly enormous dimensions: stretching for 144 km, with a width of 6 km, it mostly belongs to border China, but the reflections of the sunset, playing in the blue waters of the lake, illuminate the Ladakh land, or rather the mountains, with indescribably picturesque colors of a surreal order. Stunning sunsets and sunrises on the lake. Pangong, like no other medicine, cures people from unnecessary vanity and worldly haste, which is why this place is chosen by numerous lovers of meditative practices, here nature itself allows you to balance the energies in the body, achieve spiritual harmony and health. After enjoying the unreal beauty, you can go on an excursion to the colorful, picturesque villages in the vicinity of Lake Pangonga, in one of which, namely Drangtse, there is an interesting group of monuments called “Maltese crosses”, according to some scientists, indicating the presence of 8th to 10th centuries community of Nestorian Christians. Lake Morari, also located in the border area with China, lies slightly higher than Lake Pangonga, at an elevation of about 4500 m, which is the lowest point in this area. Curious tourists, lake. Morari is greeted by the blue surface of the water, rivaling the beauty of the emerald sky. Projected onto the snowy peaks of the Great Himalayan Range, the lake fascinates with its extraordinary fairy-tale beauty.

Attractions Lech

Leh, the main city of Ladakh, was once a bustling town where caravans rested on their way through the mountains to distant Silk Road cities such as Yarkand, Kashgar, and the regions of Kashmir and Punjab. This city was the capital of the Gragspa kingdom of Bum Ide, who ruled Upper Ladakh in the early 15th century. He built the Maitreya temple located behind the palace and stupa at Tisseru to crush the demon Yellow Te'u who was causing great harm to the Leh valley. During the reign of Tashi Namgyal, a fort was built at the top of Namgyal Tsemo Peak (now Victory Peak). Although the fort is now destroyed, Gonkhang, located below, is still used for religious ceremonies. According to legend, after the victory over the Mongols, the bodies of the killed Mongol soldiers were the basis for the foundation of this temple, in order to appease the patron deities, and prevent further attacks by the invaders. Gonkhang houses the first portrait of King Tashi Nagyal, resplendent in Kashmiri-Mughal attire with a turban, a symbol of royal power, on his head. Currently, Leh is the center of the country's tourism and military industries. The most famous attraction here is the Lech Palace. It was built in the 16th century and is now almost destroyed due to the wars between Ladakh and Kashmir in the last century. It is worth going up to the roof of this palace as it offers a magnificent view. The Zanskar Mountains on the Indus River seem very close from here. The palace was sold to the Archaeological Society of India by the Ladakhi royal family and is currently undergoing restoration work. Try to find someone to open a central prayer room for you, which will certainly impress you. It's worth taking a walk through the Old Quarter to get an idea of ​​what the city was like before the tourism industry began to develop here. There is an interesting day trip from Leh to Thikse Gompa, a temple located on top of a hill overlooking the Indus. It is a nine-tiered palace reminiscent of the great Potala Palace in Lhasa. It was built by Sengge Namgyal in 1600 and completed three years later. The lower level contained warehouses for storing livestock feed, dry meat, fruits, vegetables and wood, while the upper tiers contained living quarters for the royal family, a royal chapel, guest rooms, a throne room, a reception room and rooms for performing religious ceremonies. It houses an amazing collection of Tibetan books and manuscripts, and you can also see religious ceremonies here. The palace has about 100 rooms, most of which, unfortunately, are now closed. Hemis Gompa, 45 kilometers from Leh, is the largest and most important temple in Ladakh. In the second half of June or early July, the Hemis festival takes place here with dancing in masks and costumes. For those who love thrills, we can recommend a raft trip to Ladakh along the Indus River, which can be arranged for you by travel agencies in Leh. And in the Indus Valley and Markha you can go hiking and trekking. Getting to and from Leh is both easy and difficult, depending on the time of year. Traveling by plane will not be a problem from June to September, but during the winter months this type of travel is practically unavailable. You can fly here from Delhi, Jangmur and Spinagar. There are only two bus routes from Leh, but if the weather is bad, the buses do not come here either. But there are intercity jeeps and taxis, which are more expensive than buses, but they are affordable.

Attractions Lamayuru

Lamayuru, one of the most amazing monasteries of Ladakh, hidden from prying eyes behind the low forts of the mountains of a narrow gorge, is an amazing unity of nature and architecture. Situated on a rocky bright yellow sandstone slope stands the picturesque Lamayuru Monastery, around which a Chorten and monastery cells are clustered on a narrow ledge of a cliff. Founded in the 11th century by the great ascetic Naropa, the Lamayuru monastery in ancient times was called “Yun-drun” - the swastika monastery. The origin of the first name of the monastery is associated with the sacred grain, which, having sprouted, miraculously covered the field with seedlings in the shape of a swastika, traces of which can be found by looking closely at the slopes of the cliff. In addition, Lamayuru is famous for its villages, comfortably located in numerous caves on the slope, where people live and tourists who want to feel part of the Cosmos join in meditation.

Sights of Alchi

The temple complex, located in the village of Alchi, is one of the most famous monasteries in Ladakh. It is also one of the earliest Ladakh monasteries, built by Lodan Shorab and Tsulkhrim Od, disciples of Rinchen Zangpo. The complex consists of five temples - Lhakhang Soma, Sumstek, Dukhang, Lotsawa Lhakhang and Manjusri Lhakhang - as well as several chortens scattered around the complex. Dukhang and Sum-tsek are the most important temples of the complex. Dukhang is located in the depths of the complex and is entered through an elaborately carved wooden arch and a door richly decorated with carvings of the Five Buddhas. The central figure in the temple is the Vairokan Buddha, and the other four Buddhas sit opposite each other along both walls. On the walls you can see portraits of members of the Five Buddhas family. Their long robes and turbans show a clear Central Asian influence. The other important temple in the complex is the three-tiered Sumstek, which is entered from a small portico supported by carved wooden arches that show Kashmiri influence. In the central part of the temple there is a large chorten, around which, in small alcoves, you can see huge stucco images of Avalokitesvara, Maitreya and Manjushri. The painted clothes of these deities are richly decorated. The walls of the alcoves are also decorated with paintings, dominated by images of Prajnaparamita or the Goddess of Perfection and Wisdom from a scene from the life of the royal family. At Lotsawa Lhakhang one can see a portrait of the great Interpreter on one side of the central figure of Buddha and Avalokitesvara on the other. The neighboring Manjushri Lhakhang houses a statue of Manjushri and paintings of a thousand Buddhas.

Sights of Stakna

Situated on the left bank of the Indus River, Stakna Dorjedan Monastery stands on the top of a mountain shaped like a tiger leaping towards the sky. The monastery itself is located on the supposed nose of the tiger, which is why it got its name - Stakna (Tiger's Nose). It was founded in the 16th century by the learned sage from Bhutan, Jamyang Padkhar. The lamas of the monastery are traditionally considered to be reincarnations of Stakna Tulku. The oldest part of the monastery is Gongkhang, which may have been part of the original structure. The Dukhang is located along the courtyard and houses a turquoise inlaid silver chorten as well as several statues of some of the Druk-pa lamas. The room behind the altar has beautiful wall paintings, which, however, are somewhat spoiled by soot. The marble statue of Avalokitesvara, brought from Assam, is the most famous statue in the gompa, and the small museum houses an interesting collection of weapons.

Attractions Mato

Mato, founded in the 16th century by Lama Drigung Dorje, is a unique monastery for Ladakh; it is the only gompa in Little Tibet where the monks, of whom there are about 60, profess the Sakyapa religious movement. The center of the monastery complex, gracefully perched on the most beautiful ledge of the last bends of the Zanskar ridge, and proudly looking down on the Ladakh valley, is a vast courtyard, around which are located the main dukhang, the zimkchung, the Sakya public library and the gongkhang, where offerings of barley from the locals are kept scattered on the floor residents. The central courtyard is a traditional venue for religious festivals, of which the most revered for the lamas of the monastery is the festival of the famous soothsayer Mato Nagrang. The main figures of the festival, usually celebrated in February-March, are two monks, for whom preparations for the festival begin two months earlier, this is the time necessary for their spiritual purification and solitude. After the period of self-improvement expires, two deities - Red and White Tzan - inhabit the monks, after which they are given the gift of divination for a year. In honor of this joyful event, according to tradition, the remaining monks perform beautiful dances in masks, bewitching tourists with their exoticism.

Ladakh culture

The culture of Ladakh is a truly Tibetan culture, preserving the traditions of the past. The culture of Ladakh is a harmonious mixture of cultures from nearby regions. The culture of Ladakh is ascetic simplicity and majestic complexity. Ladakhi culture is primarily associated with incomprehensible architecture - magnificent monasteries and palaces located in the most incomprehensible places, on the edges of the deepest gorges, on the ledges of the highest mountains. Monastery in Ladka is "gompa", which means "deserted, secluded place." The gompa is the center of any village, and the number of monks in each monastery is supplemented by the local tradition of the villagers sending one of their sons to become a monk. Newcomers enter the gompa when they are six years old and are placed under the tutelage of a relative or other former village resident. The gompa is a place of spiritual growth, as well as an educational center where the five fundamental sciences of Buddhism are studied - logic, language, metaphysics, medicine and art. After completing their studies, some monks go to study at universities in Tibet. Currently, the monks go to Dharamsala or South India, where the exiled Tibetan community has large centers of learning. Upon return, the young monk is assigned to one of the peripheral temples or monasteries associated with the main gompa and performs rituals in the temple, prays and performs religious functions and ceremonies for the villagers. The ties between the monastery and the village, both spiritual and economic, have always remained strong. The villagers make donations for the construction and development of the monastery and finance some of the special ceremonies and rituals that are performed by the monks. The land holdings of monasteries are often cultivated by villagers, who give part of the harvest to the monastery. This symbolic relationship between the villagers and the monastery guaranteed the survival of this religious institution for centuries. The earliest of the monasteries in Ladakh dates back to the 11th century, and its appearance is directly related to the religious figure of that time, the Great Interpreter Rinchen Zangpo, who, according to legend, laid the foundations of 108 monasteries during his life. The monasteries of the early period are characterized by their location, mainly on the plains - as well as by the form of construction. It is known that upon his return from Kashmir, Rinchen Zangpo brought with him a group of skilled artists and artisans, one of whom, Bidhaka, was supposed to make the correct iconographic representation of the Buddhist pantheon. The strong influence of Kashmir is also felt in the wall paintings and carvings above the entrance to the temple at Alchi and other monasteries of this period. The early monasteries of Ladakh are Alchi, Mangyu, Lamayuru, Wanla, Sumba; there are also the ruins of the ancient monasteries of Nyarma and Basgo. The monasteries of the later period are more different from others. From the mid-14th century, the influence of Kashmir declined due to the decline of Buddhism in the region, and the main features of the monasteries of that period, both in religious, architectural and artistic expression, were taken from Tibet. Since the monasteries were already rich by that time, the buildings of that time were well-fortified structures that were erected on easily defended hills and gradually turned into large complexes. During the construction of the monastery, certain rules were followed. Firstly, the monastery had to be located on the main hill of the area. Secondly, it had to be facing east in order to meet the first rays of the rising sun, and built on the long axis of the hill. The name of the monastery reflected its mystical origins or its location. After the site was chosen by the lama, money for construction was collected, and rituals were performed at this site in order to invoke the patron deity and protect the future monastery from harm by man or demon. The laying of the foundation stone was accompanied by sacred rituals, which included the placing of sacred relics into the hollow foundation stone. Repairing or renovating a building was also accompanied by rituals. The internal structure of the monasteries has a certain similarity. Usually, the monastery courtyard is the main place for holidays and various religious ceremonies. The entrance to the main temple (ikhakhang) and the meeting hall (dukkhang) are located behind a covered gallery, inside painted with drawings dedicated to the Wheel of Life and Dharampalam (guardians of the law). The temple of the patron gods, or gongkhang, houses masks and weapons used during festivals; Access to this temple is limited. The personal chambers of the supreme clergy are called Zimchung, and are located on the upper level. Outside the physical boundaries of the monastery and at the foot of the mountain or hill are the monks' quarters. It seems that no planning was used in the construction of the monks' houses; from the walls of the monastery you can see a labyrinth of houses and narrow paths connecting them. Chortens, white pyramidal structures that can be found in any region of Ladakh; they are directly related to the location of the monastery. Chortens are associated with Buddhist stupas, which can be seen in various parts of the country, and they are the tombs of saints and monks. There are eight forms of chortens here, symbolizing eight events in the life of the Buddha. Chortens are usually made of stone, cement or brick, and they can be large or small. In temples you can see chortens made of silver, gold and copper, which, due to their small size, serve as crayfish. The Mane Walls, up to a kilometer long, lead to the monastery and are made of stones with the words “Om Mane Padme Hum” written on them, inviting one to visit the monastery. The inhabitants of Ladakh speak the Ladakhi language, the origin of which is attributed to the efforts of a Tibetan king, a contemporary of Mohammed, who decided to create a universal language for all followers of the Buddha. Guided by this intention, he simplified the grammar of Sanskrit and composed an alphabet with an incredible number of letters, thereby laying the foundations of a language with pronunciation as simple as its writing was complex and difficult. To depict any sound, you must use at least eight characters. All modern literature of Tibet is written in this language and in its pure form it is used only in Ladakh and eastern Tibet. In other parts of the country, dialects are used that are formed from a combination of this native language and various idioms borrowed from neighboring peoples. In everyday life, Tibetans speak two languages, one of which is completely inaccessible to women, and the other is spoken by the entire people. Ladak can surprise travelers with its cuisine: momo - large dumplings, thukpa - Tibetan soup, and the love of local residents for traditional clothing.

Ladakh, also called Little Tibet, due to the similarity of culture, relief,geographical and religious features. Ladakh is located in northern India, in the states of Kashmir and Jammu, surrounded by the Kunlun Mountains to the north and the Himalayas to the south. Ladakh is not typical India, with many poor people, beggars, dirt and a wide variety of temples. An interesting question arises - Why are there no poor people in Ladakh? That they live richer than other regions of India, they are definitely not rich. The fact is that even in summer it is cold at night in Ladakh, and therefore it is simply not possible to lead a miserable lifestyle here. Well, and as a consequence, the absence of the poor and beggars. Ladakh is predominantly Buddhist, although there are also many Muslims; you won’t find beggars here, and you won’t be pestered at every turn.

Leh is the capital of Ladakh, the main administrative and cultural city of the region. Located at an altitude of 3500 meters above sea level, in general Ladakh itself is a high mountain region, the lowest point is at an altitude of 3000 meters. So, when planning your tours to Leh (Ladakh), take into account the moment of acclimatization; experts recommend spending a couple of days in hotels, especially for those who flew to Leh by plane. You will have a headache, dizziness, weakness, nausea, and possibly vomiting. This applies to everyone, but due to the individual reaction to high altitude, the intensity of pain will be different for everyone.

Season in Ladakh from June to mid-September.

There are three ways to get to Leh (Ladakh):

1) Airplane. Planes fly to Leh from Delhi and other major cities in India. Tickets start at $100 one way, but depending on the season, the cost can increase to $200-250 per one-way ticket. It is also worth considering that flight dates and times may be postponed due to weather conditions, and do not forget that this is India.

2) The road Srinagar - Kargil - Leh, also back and forth, takes on average 10-14 hours by jeep; for those who want a special extreme, you can try a bus. The cost of a seat in a jeep is 1000 rupees, one way, the road is in relatively good condition.

3) The third and most extreme way to get to Ladakh is the Manali-Leh road. The Manali-Leh road, one of the highest roads in the world, passes at an altitude of 3500 - 5600 meters above sea level. Here the usual situation is to get stuck for a couple of days in the high mountain desert, lifeless and wild. Those travelers who chose this option should be prepared for this kind of surprises; for local residents, this is not even a surprise at all. The ticket price starts from 1500 rupees, the travel time is 18-24 hours, if all is well, then you can fantasize.

Sights of Leh, Ladakh

Ladakh attractions:

First of all, this is Lech, with its attractions, the city is relatively small but very unique, well suited for visiting tourists. Here you will find many mini-hotels, guesthouses, hostels, cafes, restaurants where you can eat national Tibetan cuisine at a relatively inexpensive price, shops and souvenir shops, Internet cafes, and the opportunity to call abroad. Also on the streets of Leh there are many travel companies that offer all kinds of tours around Ladakh, from a couple of hours to treks for 6-8 days; you can also rent bicycles and motorcycles from travel companies.

Lech attractions: There are several Buddhist temples in Leh. It will also be interesting to take a walk through the green area of ​​Leh, where it is not so common to see many streams and green trees. The area is in stark contrast to other areas of Leh, where people live in rocks and there are practically no trees, giving the impression that this is not an ordinary residential area, but a ghetto.The main attractions of Ladakh are located outside Leh. Among them it is worth highlighting:

The temperature had been in the forties for several days. We stayed in the tourist center of Delhi, Paharganj, in a cheap room without air conditioning, so we could fully experience the beauty of the Indian summer.

For my partner Misha, the journey was coming to an end - he was planning to fly out the day after tomorrow. I was not happy with such a banal arrangement - back in Nepal, having learned about the impossibility of returning to my homeland through China (the only crossing on the Nepal-Tibetan border was closed due to the epidemic), I began to think about the option through Pakistan and Iran. But upon arrival in Delhi, having learned about the high cost of visas from these countries, and, more importantly, after a week spent at a temperature of +43-45, my desire to visit Arab countries gradually evaporated - according to rumors, the heat there was no less, and I could quickly get past them It was not interesting, better another time. To compensate for the complete bummer, I decided to go to Ladakh before flying home - this region in the extreme north-west of India is part of the Tibetan plateau, sandwiched between the main Himalayan range and the Karakoram. At the same time, there was a chance to visit the interesting mountain valleys of Kashmir and Kullu. Leaving some of my things at the hotel and saying goodbye to Misha, I headed to the New Delhi station, fighting off bicycle and auto rickshaws along the way, which excitedly reacted to the white Mr. walking on foot and with a backpack.
I was late when the train arrived, so the best lying places on the upper bunks were already occupied. There were relatively few people for the third class carriage - you could sit quietly and read a book. But I never managed to immerse myself in the story of G. Harrer’s seven-year adventures in Tibet - curious Indians began asking their standard questions and simply practicing English with me. So a couple of hours of travel passed, and then the controller suddenly appeared. Unexpected - because for the third grade this phenomenon is rare, I have not encountered it before. The Indians showed me the tickets, and I was ready to bargain about the amount of the fine for not having one, but then something strange happened - the controller asked for my documents and, after briefly glancing at my passport, gave it to me and left. I was happy and at the same time perplexed how I managed to get away with it so easily. The passengers assumed that I had a train pass pasted into my passport (in India there are even plane passes) and began to look at my foreign passport with interest. I did not try to dissuade them from this misconception. Subsequently, one of my friends suggested that the controller simply did not want to deal with me about the ticketless travel, but he had to leave without losing face in front of the other passengers - so he resorted to a little trick. Well, quite a reasonable version. I arrived in Jammu, the winter capital of the state of Jammu & Kashmir, early in the morning, after 15 hours of travel. There are no special attractions here, and I immediately proceeded to the bus station - I decided to travel a little by bus and then start stopping. Then in Udampur, trying to find the way to Srinagar in the tangle of streets, I eventually made a circle and returned to the bus station - apparently, starting at some point, the local residents decided that since a person, and especially a foreigner, needed to go to another city, then show him where the buses leave from. Well, I reasoned - it’s fate - a bus is a bus, and I took a ticket for another 20 km. Then we managed to stop the car for several kilometers, and then, together with its driver, caught an army truck with hay. The truck driver was a Sikh and spoke good English, which is generally unusual for drivers. At first he wanted to drive all night without stopping and arrive in Srinagar in the morning, but there was a small breakdown - the wheel had a hole. While they were repairing, we decided to get some sleep and resume driving after dawn. I was assigned to sleep on a bed right under the open sky - however, the night was warm and clear. After the Jawarhar tunnel, the Kashmir Valley itself began. It became a little cooler, mountain landscapes became visible, and the bottom of the valley was buried in greenery. By lunchtime the driver was parked. Actually, he was planning to go to Leh, the capital of Ladakh, but I wanted to spend a couple of days in Kashmir, so I declined his offer to go further together. I got to the city center by minibus, and then another “hotel offerer” grabbed me. I didn’t think long and went with him to look at his boat. The main attraction of Srinagar is Dal Lake - a fairly large lake, along the banks of which there are several hundred hotels in the form of houseboats. The boat can reach a length of 20m and contain up to 4 rooms with a living and dining area. Most of them are decorated in 19th century English style. For 500-700 rupees you can rent a room that is simply luxurious in my opinion. Many people live in these floating houses for several days at a time - food can be ordered to the room. Shikaras, covered boats with soft “sofas,” serve as taxis. I chose a cheap room for 100 rupees. ($1=46Rs) The rest of the first day in the capital of Kashmir was devoted to visiting Shankaracharya Hill. Previously, this hill was called Takht-i-Sulaiman (throne of Solomon) and had a Buddhist temple on its top, built before our era. Now there is a more modern Hindu temple (not particularly interesting) and a TV tower. From the hill there is a beautiful view of Dal Lake. The next day I decided to see the most famous city mosques - Pather Masjid (17th century), Jama Masjid (14th century) and Shah Hamdan Mosque (14th century). Two local teenagers took on the role of guides. We also went with them to the Hari Parbat fort (16th century). They didn’t want any money from me for guiding – it doesn’t even look like people from India. By the way, Kashmiris are even more friendly (and therefore intrusive) and selfless than ordinary Indians. I met their first representative, Rafik, on the second day of my stay in Delhi, while walking around Paharganj. He invited me to his home to chat and treat me to Kashmiri tea, and at the same time told me about his business - selling carpets. The next morning I made arrangements for a shikara excursion. In five hours we visited a couple of islands, went to a nearby lake, swam in a labyrinth of canals (something like Venice), and watched hawks hunting for fish from about ten meters away. The only thing that prevented you from enjoying life were all sorts of merchants who come up to you and try to sell you all sorts of rubbish, from toilet paper to saffron and jewelry. After the excursion, while walking along the embankment, I met local businessman Ali. He invited him to his place for tea, at the same time showing his collection of jewelry and other goods that he sells. His family owned three shops - in Srinagar, Leh and Goa. The pebbles, I must say, made an impression. Ali also offered to live in his house. I decided to move to registration the next day. By the way, in three months of traveling I was offered entry only once - in Nepal, not far from Kathmandu, when I was returning late at night from a walk to the ancient Vajra Jogini temple. Then I was forced to refuse to spend the night (on the clay floor near the fire), because... promised Misha to return the same day. In general, from communicating with Ali I was left with an ambivalent impression. What was his main driving motive - traditional hospitality or a cleverly veiled desire to “do business” - remains a mystery to me. Towards the end, his offer to buy something from him and sell it in Moscow for supposedly four times more money became boring. Quite exotic options were also offered - for example, I give him a tent, and as compensation, through friends at travel agencies, he organizes cheap water or mountain trekking for me. I spent two days with this family. During this time we visited the local history museum and the gardens of the Mughal emperors in the vicinity of the city. Like other Kashmiris, Ali and his family were Muslims, but moderate ones - the women did not wear burqas and in general they were not particularly religious. By the way, I haven’t noticed any extremism in Kashmir, it’s all nonsense. I can’t say that everything is completely fine and calm there, but at least it’s not more dangerous than in Moscow. Several years ago, there was indeed a very tense situation in this state, but now everything has almost returned to normal, tourists have returned to popular resorts. True, there is an army on every corner. I left Ali not without some relief. Traveled a short distance by bus, then stopped the truck to Sonamarg. Relaxed by an overly successful hitchhiking on the Jammu-Srinagar highway, I did not warn the driver about the money - as a result I had to pay 30 rupees. It was getting dark, and it was necessary to resolve the issue of accommodation for the night. I decided on a tent. Some strange people did not allow me to go further than the checkpoint at the end of the village, citing the fact that it was allegedly unsafe further. We had to climb the slope above the village and spend the night in the forest under a huge pine tree. By the way, I had only slept in a tent twice on this trip before. The first time was in the town of Auli in the Indian Himalayas, the second at Annapurna Base Camp. In the first case, I observed from the window of the tent the second highest mountain of India, Nanda Devi (7817), in the second, the southern wall of Annapurna (8091). In the morning, for two hours it was not possible to catch any transport, so I decided to walk. From the point of view of hitchhiking, this is of course stupid - driving is always faster than walking - but I was delirious with an obsession: firstly, to enter Tibet on foot, and secondly, standing on the Zoji La pass (it was only 15-20 km away) to observe in the west is the flowering valley of Kashmir, and in the east is the lifeless stone desert of Ladakh. Looking ahead, I will say that I would have been severely disappointed, because... The pass is a plateau several kilometers long, and the nature of the terrain does not change suddenly. Having walked halfway to the pass, at the next checkpoint I started talking with the soldiers. They asked me for Russian coins for their commander's collection, and in return they stopped an army truck with ammunition on its way to Leh for me. The truck was part of a huge convoy, about a hundred vehicles. The column moved very slowly, stopping every hour. Despite the end of June and the relatively low altitude (3529), there was a lot of snow on the pass; the road practically ran through a tunnel dug in the snow. Before evening we reached a military camp 15 km beyond the pass, where we stopped for the night. After eating a standard army dinner, I went to bed on the top bunk of the truck. In the morning, the driver began demanding beer and chicken for lunch as fare. I excused myself by saying that the soldiers who dropped me off with him promised that they would take me in a military truck for free. But the driver and I never reached an understanding on this issue, and I got off in the next more or less large city so as not to create tension. In the end, dragging along this truck and spending the night again in the dust of the camp on a cramped shelf did not excite me very much, even despite the free army food. Then, while riding a bus 40 km to Mulbek, I crossed the imaginary border separating the Muslim and Buddhist parts of the state. Having pitched a tent on the river bank, I went for a walk around the village. Its main attraction is carved into the rock in the first century BC. statue of the coming Buddha (Maitreya). Real Tibetan landscapes have already begun - small oases of greenery in the river valleys around the villages, on the rocks above which ancient Buddhist monasteries (gompas) can be seen, and around the stone desert of various shades - from pale brown, ocher, to almost purple. In the morning it turned out that I had pitched the tent in a swamp, and I had to spend an hour drying my things :) Then, leaving my backpack in the restaurant, I went to explore the monasteries. The climb took about an hour. The gompas were destroyed and were not of much interest, but they offered a wonderful view of the valley and mountains. Having gone down, I caught another truck. His driver turned out to be all the way from Madras and barely understood either English or Hindi. We crossed two passes with him, stopping at the highest point of the route (Fatu La, 4094) for photography. In Kalsi he turned to a military base, and I went to sleep on the banks of the Indus. I woke up from the heart-rending cry of “Helo,” but decided not to give in to this provocation and not look out of the tent. At breakfast, a man came up to me and began to explain with gestures that he wanted money from me for setting up a tent, supposedly on his territory. Why the hell, I thought, because I didn’t sleep in his wheat field, but on the grass next to him. Pretending that I did not understand sign language, I ignored his requests. I wanted to get to the capital of Ladakh that same day, but hitchhiking didn’t work out, so after lunch (one that was difficult to walk later:) I took the bus. There were no empty seats in the cabin, so we had to sit on the roof. However, it was also sold out. Riding on the roof was not for the faint of heart. The back of the bus bounced on every bump, and it was necessary to make significant efforts not to fly away. In addition, there was a man sitting in front who periodically gave commands such as “air raid warning”. At this command, you had to bend down as much as possible, otherwise you could get hit in the face with a branch, and sometimes with electrical wires, which sometimes flashed a few centimeters above the passengers’ heads. All this added spice, but distracted from admiring the mountain landscapes. After some time, we caught up with another bus and drove all the way to Les, taking turns overtaking each other. The women on the roof of that bus sang songs all the way, and each overtaking was accompanied by long hooting from both sides. As a result, as a result of two hours of standing in a traffic jam (!) - due to a breakdown of a truck in an army convoy - we arrived in Les already dark. I was a little unoriented and ended up quite far from the city center, which is why I had to climb over some kind of fence and set up the tent again. It was only here in Tibet, for the first time on this journey, that I finally felt complete freedom. There were no schedules, check-outs, partners - nothing that could tie you to time or to the need to somehow coordinate actions. If you want, you can vote, if you’re tired, go eat/sleep/catch a bus. You just give in to your desires and the flow of time. In Ladakh, I really enjoyed the Tibetan cuisine that I discovered in Nepal. Mutton momo and veg thukpa were especially popular with me. Momo is a type of large dumpling, and thukpa is a Tibetan soup. What is called soup in India and Nepal is garbage, just water with a smell, but thukpa is real food :) My second obsession was registration in the monastery. Leh & Tsemo (red) Gompa, standing close to each other on a hill overlooking the city, were chosen for this purpose. I went there straight away with my backpack. It turned out that Leh Gompa is just ruins, but in Tsemo Gompa there is a three-meter statue of Buddha. To look at it, you need to ask the monk for the keys in the next building. But as it turned out, no one lives in this monastery now and there are no rooms for this. Therefore, I agreed with the monk that I would leave my backpack with him until the evening, and I would go for a walk. Just below these gompas is Leh Palace. In the 16th century, this residence of the Ladakhi royal family was built as a copy of the Potala, the winter palace of the Dalai Lama in Lhasa, but numerous wars with the rulers of Kashmir in the 19th century. did their job. Entrance to Leh Palace for foreigners is as much as 100 rupees, so I climbed the rock and entered the palace from the other side. In those few minutes until I was set on fire and kicked out, I became convinced that this palace, especially considering the price of the ticket, was a blatant scam of tourists. There is absolutely nothing interesting inside - just dust, dirt and holes in the floor, the impression is as if you were at a construction site. I also visited the active Sankar Gompa monastery, but its most interesting part - the hall with the image of Avalokiteshvara with a thousand arms and heads - was closed to the public. Another noteworthy place is Shanti Stupa, somewhat reminiscent of the Japanese Peace Pagoda in Lumbini. Sitting at the stupa and dangling their legs over the cliff, a crowd of Europeans watched the sun set over the mountains of Zanskar. I returned to get my backpack already after dark, and found only a note with a message that the monk had gone to sleep in Sankar Gompa (so that’s where I had to go to register!) and would be here only tomorrow afternoon. The situation was pretty stupid. There was nothing left to do but go to the hotel - spending the night on the street without bivouac equipment or at least warm clothes was not at all fun. The next day, going to the Ladakh Ecological Development Center, I was surprised to learn that just a few kilometers from Leh, for another 4-5 days every morning, the Dalai Lama would give lectures to a wide range of public. The backpack was only rescued from prison 5 hours later, when I went to look for this monk myself. In the evening I got to Choglamsar, but they didn’t let me into the field where the Dalai Lama lectures; there is no camping there. In the morning, when I arrived at the lecture (or sermon, I don’t know which is more precise), I found a crowd of several thousand people on a field the size of a stadium. The Dalai Lama spoke in Tibetan, but in a specially designated corner for Europeans there was simultaneous translation into English. However, I still didn’t understand anything. I wanted to see the Dalai Lama back in April, in Dharamsala, but then I arrived there a week later than necessary. Now, to be honest, this whole event made less of an impression on me than I expected. Further on the way to Manali, I stopped at the Shey and Tiksey monasteries. Shey Gompa and the adjacent summer palace of the kings of Ladakh were dilapidated, but Tiksi turned out to be a large monastery, in one of the buildings there was a good collection of paintings and a ten-meter statue of Buddha. Next to the cash register there was a poster mentioning the website (!) of the monastery and the “registration rules”, which stated that women were not allowed to spend the night here, and men should contact the monastery authorities directly. However, my final goal that day was different - the famous Hemis. This one of the oldest and largest monasteries in Ladakh is a popular tourist spot during the festival, which falls on July 9-10 this year. I arrived there on the 2nd and had to give up on this mega-entertainment. In the courtyard of the monastery, I turned to two monks with a request for an overnight stay. One of them took me to his home. After the question “do I like this room,” he asked how much I would pay him, and after answering “nothing,” he made a face like a child whose candy was taken away. Then excuses began like “of course you can spend the night here if you want anyway, but I’ll wake you up at five in the morning tomorrow, I need to go to Les, etc.” In general, I decided not to bother the dude and went to sleep in the yard, concluding for myself that the tourism business can ruin even a Buddhist monk. Having examined the monastery in the morning, I returned to the highway and soon caught a truck to Manali, in which 5 people were already traveling. But, having learned that I was going to go to the very end, the driver reduced his enthusiasm and dropped me off at the next village, where a couple of hours later I caught another car. I had to climb into the back, where five locals and two Europeans, the Israeli Yoshi and the Swede Dunas, were already sitting. God, how dusty it was there! I put my backpack down and carefully sat on it, trying not to touch anything. These same guys were already playing homeless in full, lounging on the foam. It was shaking very strongly in the back - at times I was jumping about 10 centimeters on the backpack. Dunas said that they met Yoshi on a bus to Leh and then went together to one of the six-thousander trekking peaks. Meanwhile, we quietly passed Taglang La - this is the second highest road pass in the world (5328m). The first one has a height of 5606m and is also located in Ladakh. On a section 100 km before the next pass there is only one settlement - the Pang military camp, where we stopped for the night. At the checkpoint in front of the camp, for some reason the driver lied that there was no one in the back. We had already spread out in the back when the police came and pulled us out of there to check our passports. There was a long trial. They wanted to arrest the driver on suspicion of terrorism. A particularly aggravating circumstance in the eyes of the policeman was that the driver was a Sikh, and in his words, “a Sikh would rather die than tell a lie.” We excused ourselves and the driver for a long time, and in the end our passports were taken away and a showdown was scheduled for the morning. At the same time, we were ordered to leave the truck and spend the night in one of the large tents designed for truckers. We gave our driver some money as compensation for the inconvenience, although by and large he himself was to blame for this situation. And then there was a meeting with an Indian hippie (!) At first we didn’t even take him for an Indian, he looked more like a European and spoke English better than Hindi. There was something unreal about this meeting. Sitting under an unusually starry sky (after all, the altitude of 4500 makes itself felt), we drank vodka, smoked and talked about all sorts of interesting topics. It turned out that this guy, as part of a group of bikers, was returning from the same high pass that they had conquered on motorcycles. In the morning it turned out that everything that happened yesterday was true. The bikers left, we took our passports from the police, who strictly forbade us to ride in trucks. Yesterday’s driver was nowhere to be found, and I don’t know how this story ended for him, but I think they simply let him go, perhaps with a fine. Having reached the cafe, which was out of sight of the police, we began to catch a bus. But they all charged unrealistic prices, and in the end we agreed to catch a paid truck, setting a payment limit of 100 rupees per person. After some time I managed to do this. All subsequent checkpoints were passed on foot - the drivers dropped us off in advance and we dealt with the police ourselves. Now I understand the logic of yesterday’s driver’s actions. In principle, it is not prohibited to transport foreigners in trucks along this route, but it is highly discouraged - the police put all sorts of obstacles in this way, apparently believing that white people should not drive in such conditions, although it is worth noting that driving in the cab of a truck is more comfortable than in inside a regular bus. And, apparently, the driver decided not to contact the police, thinking that he would carry it through, but he was mistaken. In general, the Le Manali track is very difficult. People travel less than 500 km in 2 or even 3 days, crossing passes at 5300, 5000, 4900 and 4000 m. More than half of the route is not paved and there is quite a bit of shaking along the way. In the Le Valley, there are military camps on every corner, a consequence of the border conflict with China. We arrived in Manali, one of the most popular mountain resorts in India (there are even opportunities for alpine skiing and paragliding), at three in the morning and immediately went to the old part of the city to look for a hotel. On the third attempt we managed to get a room for three. The return to civilization was marked by a global wash. In general, there is something to see and where to walk in Manali, but we came here already during the monsoon period, so the weather was not conducive to walking around the surrounding area. We limited ourselves to visiting a local 16th century temple and testing Israeli cuisine. Having spent a lot of money in three days in Manali, I moved further down the Kullu valley, already alone. First I went to Nagar - in addition to the castle of some local princeling, turned into a hotel, there is also a Roerich house-museum. It was quite funny to see in the Indian Himalayas a noble estate of the 19th century, as well as a museum with all sorts of balalaika dolls. Roerich was clearly no fool - he built his estate in such a luxurious place! If it were not for the vast thickets of marijuana, it would resemble some kind of Pushkin Mountains. Books of the Roerich Society were also sold there (in Russian). I read one brochure about the dangers of meat, alcohol, drugs and pornography. It said “the book is distributed free of charge,” but the Indian seller did not know the Russian language and did not fall for this tops. Next, my path lay in Chandigarh - this is a young Indian city, built on a European model with wide streets, parks and a rectangular layout. I visited a couple of museums there, a rose garden containing about a thousand species of roses, and a Rock Garden. This is a rather strange but funny structure with many waterfalls, sculptures and just stones of all sorts of bizarre shapes. Arriving in Delhi at the old railway station, on the way to Paharganj I came across a huge puddle. At first the depth was ankle-deep, then knee-deep, then I walked along the curb dividing the street into two lanes. When standing on the curb also became knee-deep, he paused for a few meters - a place for cars to turn around. To overcome them, it was necessary to plunge into a puddle already up to the waist. Then I broke down and took a rickshaw. The spectacle was simply amazing - rickshaws pulling their bicycles while standing waist-deep in water, carts pulled by cows with almost one head sticking out of the water. The picture was completed by drizzling rain and tons of garbage floating in this puddle, probably the size of a block. Having bought a plane ticket, the only thing I had time to do was visit the largest Asian mosque - Delhi's Jama Masjid, and go through the souvenir shops to spend the rest of the money. A day later I was already in Moscow. This is how banal this Asian epic ended. Initially, I planned a long and gradual return home by land, but in the end I was transported to my homeland with the help of a magical device called an airplane. However, now I don’t regret it at all. Denis Rozhkov.

Ideal travel program to Little Tibet. With the opportunity to see the most beautiful places of Ladakh at the ideal time without suffering from sudden changes in altitude and altitude sickness. Thousand-year-old monasteries, the most famous and those that tourists do not get to. Villages where people live as they did a thousand years ago. Alpine lakes, snowy passes and the Himalayas in all their glory! And as a contrast - the most ancient city in the world - Varanasi “for dessert”. The trip has been carried out regularly since 2007.

Description

Equipment

Information

Day 01: Arrival
Leh is the capital of the Kingdom of Ladakh. Without a doubt, air travel from Delhi to the Great Himalayan Range
Lech
Le Shanti Stupa Shanti Stupa

We are going to Shey, the ancient capital of Ladakh Buddha Shakyamuni Thiksey (Thiksey Gonpa Ladakh's most fantastic toilet

Day 03: Leh - Hemiz - Gotsang - Leh
After breakfast (if we can agree) we go to the Lech oracle. The spectacle is quite specific. A lot of locals are crammed into a small room. We will be seated against the far wall so as not to be disturbed, but we will be able to see and hear well.
Then we go to Hemiz Monastery.
Hemis Gompa
Monastery in Hemis
Gotsang Gonpa is a place for reflection and meditation, located above Hemiz (we will see in what conditions they meditated, and even now the local monks are doing this, to be honest - it’s just creepy!). This will be our first warm-up on foot (about 40 - 60 minutes up the stairs - the first acclimatization test!).
We return to the Ladakh Sarai hotel.

in the world of Khardungla
Then we find ourselves in the Nubra Valley, located between the Ladakh and Karakoram ranges.
After lunch we go to the Diskit Gompa Monastery, built in the 14th century and belonging to the Gelukpa order.
We spend the night in a tent camp. The tents are stationary, they even have a shower and toilet and regular beds!

Day 05: Nubra
After breakfast we go to the Insa Gompa Monastery - an ideal place for meditation! The monastery itself is no older than 250 years, but what is most striking is the peaceful silence around. The monastery is located near the border with Pakistan - not the most tourist place.
On the way back we visit Lake Yarab Tso. It is very tiny, so we will walk around it in a few minutes, but it is amazing... It is located in the middle of the Nubra Valley, which in this place is a sandy desert, in the middle of which rises a stone bowl of rocks, inside of which Yarab Tso is located. If you're lucky with the weather, you can meditate here to your heart's content.
We have dinner and spend the night in the camp.

We return to Leh Khardungla.
If we are lucky with the weather at the pass and we have time, we will visit the monastery Namgyal Tsemo, directly above the center Lech And Royal Tsemo Palace. From there you can walk down to the very center of Lech on the main street and wander a little around the shops and market.
We spend the night at the Ladakh Saray hotel.

Day 07: Leh - Chang La - Pangong Tso
After breakfast we have a very long drive ahead. We are going to Pangong Lake (Pangong Tso). This incredibly beautiful lake is located at an altitude of 4350 meters and partly belongs to India and partly to China, so getting here is not so easy, because you need to apply for a special permit.
On the way, we conquer the third highest automobile pass, Chang La (ChangLa), about 5200 meters high, and admire the panorama that opens from the pass (if we are lucky with the weather).
In the evening we settle into a new tent camp, have dinner and admire the beauty of the lake.

Day 08: Pangong Lake
Today is our trekking day. We go on a walk to the village of Merak. We'll have lunch on the way and if we have a fighting fuse, we'll be able to climb one of the peaks not far from the border with China, from which the territory of neighboring China is clearly visible.
In the evening we return to the campsite, have dinner and spend the night in tents.

Day 9: Tso Pangong - Leh
We return to our hotel in Lech and enjoy the comfort and warmth. If possible, we will pay a visit to Kaspang (Khaspang Gompa). Kaspang, like Gotsang, is a place for meditation, only it is located in a completely secluded place and is not marked on tourist maps.
If possible, we communicate with the monks.
Overnight at Ladakh Sarai.

Day 10: Leh - Skiyu Gompa - Chilling
Chilling (Chilling the Indus confluence of the Indus and Zanskar Zanskar along a winding gorge.
In the village of Chilling
By the way, the village of Chilling is famous for its coppersmiths
After lunch we drive to the Zanskar crossing
Walk to the village of Skiu Skiu Gompa (Skiu Gompa of Buddha Maitreya. I must say that this statue makes a very strong impression..
After visiting the monastery, we return along the Markha river to the camp in Chilling, where dinner awaits us. We spend the night in tents.

Day 11: Chilling - Sumda Gompa - Bazgo - Leh
In the morning, before breakfast, we climb the hill above the village to the old chortens, then we meditate in the village temple and after breakfast we go to the Sumda Gompa Monastery / This is one of the oldest monasteries in Ladakh (XI century), decorated with wooden carvings in the Kashmiri style, such the same as in the Alchi Monastery (Alchi Gompa). Only you can’t come to Souda Gompa by car! That's why there are absolutely no tourists there!!! In order to get there, we will take an hour-long walk through a picturesque gorge along a mountain stream. And in the monastery itself we will be able to meditate at the feet of Maitreya.
After lunch we return to the cars and go to the monastery Basgo Gompa Sar Zung Palace Basgo Gompa only one monk Stronghold of Tibet. Basgo in 1932 and the Himalayas. Bazgo. Ladakh in 1940.

Day 12: Leh - Delhi - Moscow or - Varanasi???
Traveling all day! Early in the morning we go to the airport and fly to Delhi.

There are two possible options:

1. Walk around Delhi, light shopping and departure to the airport for flight to Moscow
2. Transfer flight to Varanasi. And another super contrast! The eternal city, the cradle of Buddhism and... a 5* hotel, Ganga Aarti, Sarnath and a sea of ​​experiences for three more days.

Day 13: Varanasi
Dawn on the Ganges! Boat ride and viewing the ghats of Varanasi
In the evening, visit the Ganga Aarti - puja of the Ganga Benares, crazy weddings on the street!.
Overnight at the hotel.

Day 14 Varanasi
Varanasi.
Ganga Aarti!
We spend the night at the hotel.

Day 15 Varanasi - Delhi
In the morning we will have a boat ride on the Ganges
In the afternoon we fly to Delhi where shopping and a festive dinner await us. And then - to the airport.

Day 16 Delhi - Moscow

..........

PREVIOUS TRIP PROGRAMS

Day 01: Arrival
Arrival at Delhi International Airport. Next we will go to the domestic airport for a flight to Leh - the capital of the kingdom of Ladakh. Without a doubt, the flight from Delhi to Leh is one of the most scenic flights in the world!!! We will fly directly over the Great Himalayan Range. And at dawn! Don't forget to take your cameras with you.
Due to the fact that we arrive in Lech early in the morning, we will have a whole day to acclimatize (the city is located at an altitude of 3500 meters) and get to know the city before more active routes the next day.
After arrival and check-in at the hotel, we will have a walk around old Les and its surroundings, exploring the sights. Next - exotic shopping at the Lech market - there is a chance to become more deeply acquainted with the traditions of the local residents, and stock up on local souvenirs. The long day will end with a trip to the Shanti Stupa, built on a Japanese model and opened by the Dalai Lama in 1985 - a memorable sight - watching the sunset standing next to the Shanti Stupa. Then we return and spend the night at the hotel.

Day 02: Leh - Shey - Tiksi - Leh
Tour of the monasteries of the Indus Valley.
We are going to Shey, the ancient capital of Ladakh. The monastery houses a huge gilded statue of Buddha Shakyamuni, such a sight is simply mesmerizing. Next we head to Thiksey Gonpa Monastery. This is one of the most picturesque and largest monasteries in Ladakh. He belongs to the "yellow hat" sect of Tibetan Buddhism, Gelukpa. By the way, it contains the most fantastic toilet I have ever seen. And in general, the monks there have a sense of humor.
We return to the hotel, where lunch awaits us.
After lunch we go to the Naro Potang Monastery (nunnery), where an evening puja awaits us.
We return to the hotel, where dinner awaits us.

Day 03: Leh - Spituk - Piang - Leh
We continue our acquaintance with the monasteries around Lech. In the morning we go to Spituk, founded in the 11th century, then to Phyang Gonpa.
We have lunch at the hotel, and then visit the Namgyal Tsemo Monastery, right above the center of Leh and the royal Tsemo Palace.
We spend the night at the hotel.

Day 04: Leh - Khardung La (5604 m) - Nubra
After an early breakfast, we conquer the highest mountain pass in the world, Khardung La (Khardungla 5604 meters), although its real height is 5359 meters (the Indians added a little) it is in the Guinness Book of Records. In good weather, the view from it is mesmerizing.
then we find ourselves in the Nubra Valley, located between the Ladakh and Karakoram ranges.
After lunch we go to the Diskit Gompa Monastery, built in the 14th century and belonging to the Gelukpa order. I myself have not been to it yet, just like in Nubra.
We spend the night in a tent camp.

Day 05: Nubra
A very rich program. If everything goes well, we can go mountain biking in the morning! And then we will go to Samtenling Monastery.
Instead of lunch, we have a picnic near the village of Sumur and we go to the hot springs in Panami. On the way back we visit the Insa Monastery
We have dinner and spend the night in the camp.

Day 06: Nubra - Khardung La - Leh
We return to Leh, admiring the panorama from the KhardungLa pass along the way.
After lunch - walks around Lech.
We spend the night at the hotel.

Day 07: Leh - Likir - Yangtang
Likir Gonpa. There we will be met by our guides who will accompany us on the trek. Our route begins from the monastery. We walk to the village of Sundo, surveying the surrounding area, spend the night in a tent camp near the village of Yangthang.

Day 08: Yangthang - Rizong Gompa - Hemiz Shukpachan
Trekking to Rizong Gonpa Monastery. This is a monastery with a very strict charter, which honors ancient traditions. As a kind gesture, it makes sense to take an armful of firewood with you (they lie on the road to the monastery).

We spend the night in tents.

Day 09: Hemiz Shukpachan - Ang - Temisgam
An exciting trek awaits us

Day 10: Temisgam - Lamayuru - Wanla
Lamayuru!!! Lamayuru Naropa Monastery.
Further, through the Pringti La pass, Lamayuru - Wanla Trekking is one of the quietest treks in Wanla

Day 11: Wanla - Bazgo - Leh
Wanla Gompa . The monastery belongs to the Drikung Kagyu lineage. , being one of the oldest monasteries of this line in Ladakh (approximately 11th century). Then we go to visit local woodcarvers.
Bazgo (Basgo) Gompa (Basgo Gompa). This is one of my favorite monasteries in Ladakh. It is being slowly restored, but it still looks quite authentic: the dilapidated Sar Zung Palace, built in the 15th century, and the Basgo Gompa monastery itself, which are looked after by only one monk. If we’re lucky and he’s there, we’ll order puja for him. And at the same time we will compare the landscapes with what Roerich painted on his canvases: The Stronghold of Tibet. Basgo in 1932 and the Himalayas. Bazgo. Ladakh in 1940.
And then back to the jeeps and to Leh, to your favorite hotel and shower! That says it all!!!

Traveling all day! Early in the morning we go to the airport and fly to Delhi. Upon arrival, we move to the local airport (depending on the airline, otherwise you may not have to move) and board a flight to Varanasi.
Upon arrival, we check into a hotel and enjoy the benefits of a five-star civilization!

Day 13: Varanasi
Dawn on the Ganges! Boat ride and viewing the ghats of Varanasi. Return to the hotel for breakfast. Then a walk around the city. And rest until the evening - it's hot!
In the evening, visiting the Ganga Aarti - Ganga Puja - is an unforgettable sight! And Benares at night is an absolutely indescribable feeling! And these crazy weddings on the street!
Overnight at the hotel.

Day 14 Varanasi
After breakfast, visit Sarnath, one of the four sacred places associated with the name of Buddha. The place where he started teaching is very strong. There is also a museum with a fantastic Buddha statue. It is 13 kilometers from Varanasi.
In the evening you have a choice: either a concert at the hotel or again the madness of colors at the Ganga Aarti!
We spend the night at the hotel.

Day 15 Varanasi - Delhi
In the morning we will have a boat ride on the Ganges. If you're lucky, we'll see the sunrise. Then breakfast at the hotel.
In the afternoon we fly to Delhi where a festive dinner awaits us. And then - to the airport.

Day 16 Delhi - Moscow
Here it is - the Motherland! We returned home, overwhelmed with impressions, happy and satisfied (no comments...)

Day 01: Arrival
Arrival at Delhi International Airport. Next we will go to the domestic airport for a flight to Leh - the capital of the kingdom of Ladakh. Without a doubt, the flight from Delhi to Leh is one of the most scenic flights in the world!!! We will fly directly over the Great Himalayan Range. And at dawn! Don't forget to take your cameras with you.
Due to the fact that we arrive in Lech early in the morning, we will have a whole day to acclimatize (the city is located at an altitude of 3500 meters) and get to know the city before more active routes the next day.
After arrival and check-in at the hotel, we will have a walk around old Les and its surroundings, exploring the sights. Next - exotic shopping at the Lech market - there is a chance to become more deeply acquainted with the traditions of the local residents, and stock up on local souvenirs. The long day will end with a trip to the Shanti Stupa, built on a Japanese model and opened by the Dalai Lama in 1985 - a memorable sight - watching the sunset standing next to the Shanti Stupa. Then we return and spend the night at the hotel.

Day 02: Leh - Shey - Tiksi - Leh
Tour of the monasteries of the Indus Valley.
We are going to Shey, the ancient capital of Ladakh. The monastery houses a huge gilded statue of Buddha Shakyamuni, such a sight is simply mesmerizing. Next we head to Thiksey Gonpa Monastery. This is one of the most picturesque and largest monasteries in Ladakh. He belongs to the "yellow hat" sect of Tibetan Buddhism, Gelukpa. By the way, it contains the most fantastic toilet I have ever seen. And in general, the monks there have a sense of humor. There is also the tallest statue of Maitreya Buddha in Ladakh - 15 meters.
We return to the hotel, where lunch awaits us.
After lunch we go to the Naro Potang Monastery (nunnery), where an evening puja awaits us.
We return to the hotel, where dinner awaits us.

Day 03: Leh - Chilling
After breakfast we drive to the village of Chilling. There are many beautiful roads in Ladakh, but this one is one of the most mesmerizing. First we will drive along the Indus, gradually rising higher and higher above the river. This will continue until the confluence of the Indus and Zanskar - a place of fantastic beauty! Then we go down and drive along Zanskar along a winding gorge.
In the village of Chilling we will have lunch, get acquainted with the life and everyday life of ordinary Ladakhis, and meditate in the village temple.
By the way, the village of Chilling is famous for its coppersmiths who still process copper by hand. So you can get a copper souvenir, which will be forged in front of you.
We spend the night in tents.

Day 04: Chilling - Skiyu - Chilling
After breakfast we drive to the crossing of Zanskar. This is another attraction! A small box, roughly knocked together from boards, is attached by a block to a steel cable stretched across Zanskar. The drive is manual, so we check our level of physical fitness.
Walk to the village of Skiyu. This place is located away from the tourist routes, so we enjoy complete solitude and the majestic view of the Himalayas! In the village we visit the Skiu Gompa monastery and meditate at the feet of the statue of Maitreya Buddha. It must be said that this statue makes a very strong impression, and the Skiyu Gompa monastery is considered one of the most revered places in Ladakh, along with Argyen Dzong, Gotsang, Mangyu and Vanla Gompa.
After lunch along the Markha river we return to the camp in Chilling, where dinner awaits us. We spend the night in tents.

Day 05: Chilling - Likir - Yangtang
After breakfast we drive to Likir Gonpa Monastery, a monastery of the Gelukpa order specializing in Tibetan medicine. The monastery is famous for the gilded statue of Maitreya Buddha, which is located not inside, but outside the monastery. It seems that Buddha simply sat down next to the monastery to rest.
Near Likir we will be met by our guides who will accompany us on the trek. Our route begins from the monastery. We walk to the village of Sundo, surveying the surrounding area, spend the night in a tent camp near the village of Yangthang.

Day 06: Yangthang - Rizong Gompa - Hemiz Shukpachan
Trekking to Rizong Gonpa Monastery. This is a monastery with a very strict charter, which honors ancient traditions. At the same time, solar panels on the roof of the monastery look quite organic, such Tibetan high-tech! As a kind gesture, it makes sense to take an armful of firewood with you (they lie on the road to the monastery).

Further along the Wulle valley to the Kongmaru La pass, then descend to Hemis Shukpachan - the highest village on our route. This is a fairly large village, famous for its cedars, hence the name. We will visit the family home, taste delicious tea and Ladakhi chang (local beer). Near the village there is a small but beautiful monastery, which we can visit either in the evening or the next morning. At the top there is a chance to see the three wheels of life, Kalachakra, damn it...
We spend the night in tents.

Day 07: Hemiz Shukpachan - Ang - Temisgam
A fascinating trek awaits us to the apricot village of Ang. The sight of blooming apricots in the Martian landscape of Ladakh is mesmerizing.
Next we move to the village of Temisgam where we spend the night
The new camp will be ready for our arrival; we will spend the night in tents.

Day 08: Temisgam - Lamayuru - Wanla
Let's pack small backpacks and go to Lamayuru!!! Lamayuru Monastery was founded by Rinchen Zangpo in the 10th century. It is nestled between massive mountains. This monastery is famous for its collections of carpets, thangkas and frescoes, and many people have been flocking to it for many years. It is believed to be the oldest in central Ladakh. There is a cave in the monastery where Naropa meditated.
Next, through the Pringti La pass (3750) we go to the village of Shila. Trekking Lamayuru - Vanla is one of the quietest treks I know. The silence that stands in the gorge is really noticeable! Then we go to the village of Wanla. We set up camp and spend the night in tents.

Day 09: Wanla - Bazgo - Leh
In the morning we explore the Wanla Gompa monastery. The monastery belongs to the line Drikung Kagyu, being one of the oldest monasteries of this line in Ladakh (approximately 11th century). Then we go to visit local woodcarvers.
Then we get into the jeeps and go to the Basgo Gompa monastery. This is one of my favorite monasteries in Ladakh. It is being slowly restored, but it still looks quite authentic: the dilapidated Sar Zung Palace, built in the 15th century, and the Basgo Gompa monastery itself, which are looked after by only one monk. If we’re lucky and he’s there, we’ll order puja for him. And at the same time we will compare the landscapes with what Roerich painted on his canvases: The Stronghold of Tibet. Basgo in 1932 and the Himalayas. Bazgo. Ladakh in 1940.
And then back to the jeeps and to Leh, to your favorite hotel and shower! That says it all!!!

Day 10: Leh - Hemiz - Gotsang - Kaspang
After breakfast we go to Hemiz Monastery.
Hemis Gompa - one of the largest and richest monasteries in Ladakh belongs to the Drukpa Kagyu order. The annual Monastic Dance Festival made it famous throughout the world. The festival is dedicated to Guru Padmasambhava, popularly known as the second Buddha. We will not see the festival (it is held in June-July, but there is a chance to buy tickets for it in advance :).
The monastery in Hemis is also known for the legend about the stay of Jesus Christ in the Himalayas.
Next - a short walking excursion to Gotsang Gonpa - a place for reflection and meditation, located above Hemiz (we will see in what conditions they meditated, and even now the local monks are doing this, to be honest - it’s just creepy!).
Next, we take permission to visit Kaspang (Khaspang Gompa) and go there. Kaspang, like Gotsang, is a place for meditation, only it is located in a completely secluded place and is not marked on tourist maps.
We spend the night in tents at an altitude of 4375 meters!

Day 11: Kaspang - Leh
After the morning puja and conversation with the monks in Kaspang, we, thoroughly enlightened, get into the jeeps and go to Leh to the market for souvenirs and to the hotel for a farewell dinner in Ladakh.

Day 12: Leh - Delhi - Varanasi
Traveling all day! Early in the morning we go to the airport and fly to Delhi. Upon arrival, we move to the local airport (depending on the flight, otherwise you may not need to move) and board a flight to Varanasi.
Upon arrival, we check into a hotel and enjoy the benefits of a five-star civilization!

Day 13: Varanasi
Dawn on the Ganges! Boat ride and viewing the ghats of Varanasi. Return to the hotel for breakfast. Then a walk around the city. And rest until the evening - it's hot!
Evening visit
Here it is - the Motherland! We returned home, overwhelmed with impressions, happy and satisfied (no comments...)

This section provides information about the equipment and gear needed for the trips you may take with me. When it comes to equipment, I try to play it safe, so the lists you see are compiled to the maximum. Of course, you shouldn’t be particularly zealous, spending your last money on buying a super-duper membrane suit, but it’s worth listening to the recommendations. I talk in more detail about what to take and what not to take with you on trips at organizational meetings, and here is a reminder for those who forgot something (maybe it will be useful to someone? :)))

• A backpack (50-60 liters is quite enough, more is possible - for souvenirs, you won’t have to carry it), the main thing is that it is comfortable. No need to take your suitcase with you!
• + small backpack - put a thermos, a bottle of water, sun cream, documents, a sweater, a camera (20 - 25 liters).
• Sleeping bag (comfort - 5, extreme -15), even warmer is better, but without fanaticism - size and weight play a role! You can ask for a sleeping bag there, but I strongly recommend getting your own - it is safer, more comfortable and sterile! And it will be useful for the future, especially since the device is not very heavy.
• Shoes (and this is very important!!!): trekking sneakers. We will walk along the paths, but it is better if the shoes are reliable, durable, with good soles. There are a lot of options in stores, but there is only one alternative - Salomon. Perfect fit sneakers SALOMON 3D FASTPACKER MID GTX - proven and one of the easiest!
• + shoes for the city, hotel, camp. Simple lightweight sneakers (favorite!).
• + (optional - sandals - may come in handy).
  There is no need to take completely new shoes - check them thoroughly first! It’s better if it’s already worn and you know for sure that you won’t rub anything!
• Windproof clothing, possibly with a membrane, but not required. We are not planning any special rains (and in Ladakh they almost never happen, and what they call rain only brings tears to our eyes). Although the climate on Earth is changing...
• Pants or tights are what you will wear all the time. T-shirts with long sleeves - to avoid getting sunburned. I don't recommend shorts. Again, I am for plastic things (polyester, polyamide, nylon, etc.), they dry quickly, weigh little, are easy to wash, etc.
• Summer things - T-shirts, etc. - to a minimum! (it is advisable not to take shorts, tank tops, miniskirts for religious reasons)
• Warm things: polar + thermal underwear + hat + socks + gloves + you can take a light down jacket (it can be cold in the evenings)
• Sunglasses and cream (50+), chapstick with UV protection, hat with brim
• Metal thermos! - (do not take it with a glass flask!!!) - I recommend it.
• The seat (butt pad) is a very comfortable thing, you need to take a thick and hard one!
• Underwear: shorts - T-shirts to suit your taste, but it is better to buy trekking socks (preferably completely plastic, without adding cotton or wool). Ideal option for ARTENGO tennis socks in Decathlon (200 rubles for 3 pairs). There are also T-shirts and fleeces at very reasonable prices.
• Two pairs of thick socks are for visiting temples (they ask you to take off your shoes, so you will only be left in your socks, but it is not hot there and can be dusty). I'll take the Czechs.
• Headlamp! Better than a good one - Petzl or Black Diamond - will not break and will serve for many, many years.
• Batteries for all powered devices, photographic films (for the entire route).
• Personal hygiene items, toiletries + towel (hotels will provide them, but on trekking you need to have your own), better sportswear, a good option is sold in Expedition stores. + wet wipes and more! + antiseptic gel (sold in pharmacies).
• A photocopy of the international passport (actually, I make copies of documents for all participants, but this is a case where you can play it safe)
• Waterproof case for documents.
• Trekking poles (you can buy disposable ones locally, 10-12 bucks each)
• Swimsuit (this is for a hotel in Varanasi).

First aid kit
It is advisable to have the following medications in your personal first aid kit:
(they will be in the general first aid kit, but you can play it safe and take it yourself; those drugs that I strongly recommend are highlighted in red)

• Activated carbon (better entegnin - it is more effective)
• smecta, or polyphepan
• Immodium (packaging)
• No-shpa (this is more for girls)
• Diacarb (diamox, acetazolamide) to reduce intracranial pressure at high altitudes, this is a very important thing, I recommend starting to take it at the first signs of altitude sickness
• asparkam or panangin (potassium preparations, taken together with diacarb)
• Panthenol (this is a spray or ointment for burns, including sunburn)
• Germicidal patch (and more!)
• Suprastin or tavegil
• Paracetamol, ibuclin or nurofen (these are antipyretics)
• antiseptics (alcohol, chlorhexidine, furatsilin, etc.)
• + medications you usually take
• Wide bandage - 2 pcs., narrow bandage - 3 in + elastic bandage - 1 pc.

Necessarily!!!:

• Sunscreen! (from 50 units and above)
• Chapstick! (preferably with UV protection)
• Sunglasses! (preferably the sports type, so that the eye sockets are completely covered)

I recommend taking vitamins with you. Best Sports Type Daily One Caps Manufacturer
Twinlab or similar. I take Dual Caps from Twinlab. + ascorbic acid tablets (effervescent) 1000 milligrams - 1 jar.

Additionally:
Our cell phones will not work in Ladakh, so be prepared for that.
You can call from a hotel or from any call center (there are many of them in cities), or you can buy a local SIM card (although there is no point in this...)
Our phones work in Delhi and Varanasi.

The bulk of the local population, as in “big” Tibet, are Buddhists, and this is not surprising. In order to learn to enjoy the almost deserted landscape around you, you need a special mindset, and to grow at least some food on the poor soil (they hardly eat meat here) requires truly Buddhist patience. It is unlikely that the average European (passionate travelers, convinced downshifters, professional ethnographers and Western adherents of Buddhism do not count) will be able to survive here for at least six months. At high altitudes (settlements in Ladakh are scattered at an altitude of 3500 to 5600 meters above sea level) it takes your breath away. In the most literal sense. The air here is very thin compared to what we are used to breathing, and therefore altitude sickness awaits strangers. To make it easier to bear its unpleasant consequences, you need to constantly drink water. Day and night, on vacation and on the road - and even wake up in the middle of the night to take a couple of sips and try to fall asleep again.

Water on this journey was our main assistant, and it was also our main goal. As part of the “Two Drops” project, in the company of eight boys and girls, I went to Ladakh to take water samples from the high-mountain lake Tso-Moriri, considered one of the cleanest in the world.

However, there were still eight long days until we were able to see with our own eyes what was hidden among the mountain ranges of Tso-Moriri. Ahead of us lay winding mountain roads connecting monasteries clinging to the mountain slopes and getting to know the monks living in them - but the first three days the expedition members and I spent in the Ladakh capital, Leh, and its immediate surroundings. We learned to breathe again.

We flew to Leh on a small plane from Delhi, about an hour and a half north. Huge, yellow metal-painted hands saw us off on our way at the airport - actually these are Indian mudras, but to us travelers unaccustomed to Hindu symbolism, they might have seemed like a blessing gesture. The help of higher powers was helpful: we flew to Leh on the first try - which, as they say, not everyone succeeds. The airport of the main Ladakh city is located at an altitude of 3500 meters among the mountains, and the weather conditions here are not the best - there is often thick cloudiness. Our expedition was lucky: we not only made a successful landing, but were also able to admire the breathtaking mountain landscapes from the windows. Under the belly of the plane, surrounded by light cloud caps, lay the Himalayas.

Lech itself is a small town. Just over 20 thousand people have adapted to live in the ascetic conditions of the mountain desert. They say that in winter the city is covered with snow, and the temperature drops to -10 ° C; However, in summer it is quite cool here, 10-20 degrees.

Leh was once the flourishing capital of the independent Ladakh principality, four important trade routes converged here (one of which was the Great Silk Route), and a magnificent palace towered over the city, surrounded by a dozen or two rich monasteries. It still towers over Lech - in the form of ruins. And underneath it goes a completely different life - much less brilliant, but no less interesting.

Local residents, mostly Tibetan Buddhists, but also Shiite Muslims, who predominate in Jammu and Kashmir, walk along the dusty streets (in Ladakh the color is generally quite pale). It is not uncommon to see military personnel in the uniform of the Indian Armed Forces on the street - most often they are also local. Ladakhis, by right of an ethnic minority, serve in the army not by conscription, but by choice, concluding a contract for a long 18 years. Contract soldiers receive about 500 dollars a month, while the average income of the civilian population is barely 150. Therefore, young people choose this path almost without exception, and on the streets of Lech you can hardly meet young men “in civilian clothes” - only elderly artisans and shopkeepers , women of different ages and children. There are a lot of schoolchildren, all with huge briefcases and in the same uniform - trousers, a short-sleeved shirt, a short tie - both boys and girls. In general, Russian schoolchildren would probably not envy their Ladakhi peers, because they sit at their desks for 12 long years, and almost all year round. School is briefly interrupted in January-February due to severe frosts, and the summer holidays are only two weeks. The rest of the time, young Ladakhis gnaw on the granite of various sciences - sociology, geography, mathematics, economics, history, philosophy and psychology, and also study three compulsory languages: Hindi, Urdu and English. The latter will be useful to those who decide to leave their native mountainous region for the “big world” or want to work in the tourism sector. Tourism in Ladakh, which recently opened to foreigners, is a rapidly developing industry. Today it employs about 4% of the 260 thousand local population, but they provide about half of the gross regional product. The rest comes from agriculture.

Residents of Lech are friendly to tourists. however, many are embarrassed when they find themselves in the crosshairs of a curious traveler’s camera

Residents of Leh are slowly getting used to the fact that their city is turning into another “tourist Mecca”. If in the backyards townspeople are shy in front of the camera lens, then on the well-trodden hiking trails, on the contrary, you can meet people who want to be photographed. They are dressed in traditional costumes, and ask tourists for money for the right to be photographed in their company. However, they do it with dignity. In Leh, they generally do not try to throw gold dust into the eyes of tourists - and it is not luxury lovers who come here, but seekers of Tibetan spirituality. And they don’t need anything other than Wi-Fi, bed and breakfast. By the way, in Lech we ate chicken for the last time on this trip. There was no more meat on our plates - no one was going to violate Buddhist ethical prohibitions for the sake of the pleasure of tourists. Therefore, I had to retrain as vegetarians - and set off on a further journey.

Very close to Leh, next to the princely palace, stands the Namgyal Tsemo Monastery, founded at the very beginning of the 16th century by a ruler named Tashi Namgyal. From here, from the monastery, located on a not very large peak, a wonderful view opens up onto Lech spread out in the valley: surrounded by pale greenery, clusters of gray houses huddle together, the color barely different from the surrounding mountains. Between the tops there are long, long ribbons, on which multi-colored scraps are attached - exactly like the flags in children's drawings. These are lungta, “horses of the wind.” On each of the multi-colored flags there is a picture of a horse carrying a lotus to the world, symbolizing knowledge. Such garlands are almost everywhere in Ladakh, they are attached to the roofs of houses, on mountain passes, in monasteries, on bridges - in other words, wherever spirits live. And here in the mountains they are equal citizens. Good, evil, all kinds.

The evil ones, for example, live on the second floor of the monastery church. Here in a smoky room there are frightening black statues. In their hands they hold someone’s severed heads and weapons, and their faces are covered with cloth. It is believed that the person who sees them will go crazy. Only those monks who have the greatest spiritual power dare to visit this eerie room - they come here to confront evil spirits.

On the neighboring peak is the Shanti stupa, which looks like a bright children's top, built in 1991 by Buddhists from Japan. The stupa has three tiers. Walking through the first one, one should pray for health, on the second one - for the soul, and on the third one - for peace for everyone on earth.

Another monastery we were able to look into the secret life of is Hemis Gompa. It is older than Namgyal, founded in the 11th century, but in its current form it was built much later, in 1672, by the aspirations of another representative of the Ladakh princely family of Namgyal - Senge Namgyal. The life of the monastery is a separate world, however, very similar to ours. Here, for example, is a children's game of tag: young monks frolic with each other in their free time from prayers and studying. In general, there are many children in the monasteries here: among the poor Ladakh population, placing a child in a monastery is considered a blessing - here he will be well-fed (if the concept of fullness, of course, is applicable to the modest monastic diet), clothed and shod.

During our visit, construction work was going on in Hemis. It was a little strange to watch how female workers carried heavy stones under the supervision of male monks, loading them onto a kind of stretcher that looked like both a backpack and a stool with two legs. And there are dogs running around - there are quite a lot of them here, and they are treated condescendingly: according to the Ladakhis, dogs are monks who sinned in a past life.

Having traveled several tens of kilometers from Hemis along the Indus, the expedition members and I ended up in another monastery - Tiksi. It seems that this is the most colorful monastery in the local mountains. Like his other brothers, he remains hidden from travelers for a long time - and then in an instant he suddenly emerges from behind the mountain, appearing in all his splendor at the top. Thiksi, founded about 800 years ago, is today inhabited by six dozen monks and ten nuns. It seems that with its colorfulness it attracts a lot of idle idle talkers, distracting the monks from the leisurely flow of their righteous life. In any case, we saw one of the inhabitants of the monastery nailing a sign with the English word “STOP” to the porch of his cell. We did not interrupt him from his work and went further, to another nearby residence of a royal family that was forever a thing of the past. And along the road there were clusters of small stupas - not even buildings, but rather miniature sculptures.

Miniature stupas decorate the landscape in the vicinity of the largest monastery in Ladakh, Tiksi Gompa.

The winding mountain roads of Ladakh finally brought us to the finishing point of our route - Tso Moriri Lake. It is located at an altitude of 4595 meters above sea level and is the largest of the high altitude lakes in India. It is believed that this 40-meter-deep water basin, whose name translates from local dialects roughly as “High Lake of the Goddess,” is of residual origin - the remnant of a huge ancient lake that once splashed here, between the high mountains.

A cold, piercing wind blows on the shore. They say it is always here, and that is why the surroundings of the reservoir are so poor in vegetation. However, the fauna here is scarce - few people would want to settle in this inhospitable, harsh climate. Only a few Champa, nomadic shepherds who raise yaks, sheep, goats and horses, roam the shores. They are the only permanent inhabitants of these places (except perhaps the monks from the nearby Korzok Gompa monastery), and they are their main problem. The herds belonging to the Champa actively destroy the already meager mountain pastures; in harsh winters, the livestock dies from lack of food, and the owners suffer along with it. In order to somehow preserve the fragile ecosystem, the surroundings of Tso-Moriri have been declared a nature reserve. Protective legislation restricts road construction and tourism here.

The lake itself is revered by Ladakhis as the “sacred gift of the living planet” - it is believed that the water in it is the purest on Earth, and in addition, it is charged with the energy of these magical places. We had only one thing left to do - take samples of this unique water from the lake and prepare to regretfully leave Little Tibet, an amazing land located so far from the hustle and bustle of civilization.